What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[Infosecdad]

I couldn't justify the aluminum rear trailing arms at this point so I went with the Whiteline bushings for the front of the rear trailing arm.

 

Followed Covertrussians directions for the most part. Tried burning out the first one and levering it with a big screwdriver. I failed miserably at that, so I went with a screwdriver and a 1/4" punch.

 

 

Second one was half the time once I figured out how to do it. Just tap in the screwdriver on the seam to get some separation. Then switch to the punch and get to work folding it over. I picked three points so it could be slowly punched out.

 

 

No marks on the trailing arm, just a little wire brush to make sure it's clean, and installed the Whiteline bushings. Whenever I have the time I can move them over to some aluminum trailing arms.

 

The old bushings had 212k miles on them and were torn. New bushing fixed the annoying squeak I had from the rear. Feels very nice and solid in the rear now, time to get the alignment refreshed.

[boxkita]

I had a local machinist make custom dies for pressing out some of the more onerous bushings. Gave him the pieces with bushes stuck in them. He gave me back dies with bushings pressed to prove they work. Second set was cake.

 

I'd offer a service but I cant see it making financial sense unless you lived nearby.

[B-BGTLimited]

Best bushing press I've bought in a long time... Trailing arm bushings came out and went in like butter.

 

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

[ChadChrist]

Same CV is used in legacy and outback. To correct the CV plunge angle you might want to install the subframe spacers, driveshaft, steering shaft. I just removed all of this from my outback as I did the opposite. Outback to legacy

 

Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk

 

 

Sheesh, then i might just lower the damn thing..

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[norutah]

Sheesh, then i might just lower the damn thing..

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As many others will testify, the outback is far from ideal at speed. Lifting a legacy without all of the outback pieces will likely multiply the effect.

 

I'll give you a quick opinion on the stages my outback suspension went thru. Mind you, I prefer a much quicker pace. Apologies for the long read but I believe to lift your legacy properly you are going to go thru most of the work I did (in reverse) to lower an outback properly. Lowering your legacy and improving handling/performance will be much easier but at the end of the day it needs to suit your needs.

 

Beginning with 225/55/17

Stock-scary due to ghost walking and roll.

 

King rear springs- ghost walking gone and rear felt a little more planted.

 

Legacy KYB with Legacy wagon front and King rear and rear spec b UCA and bump stops- probably the best touring feel out of all. Planted but still had some roll.

 

Added front/rear whiteline bars and links and ADF rear sway bar bracket support- much less roll. A little less independent bump control.

 

Aluminum front LCAs, prothane bushings and new OEM balljoints- front end felt tight and responsive.

 

GT brake swap- complete caliper rebuild. New pistons/hardware/soft goods and powder coat. New rotors-it stops now but needs more tire.

 

Added Cusco front power brace crossmember support and super pro diff mount insert and STI pitch stop- I knew the cusco member was there and it was pretty blue so it's better. The diff inserts reduced the squat under load out back and the pitch stop reduced transfer up front.

 

STI tuned bilstein BSS 1" drop- things are starting to get real at this point. Car still rides incredible but handling was night and day.

 

235/40/18-obvious less sidewall flex so better cornering more road feedback, better grip.

 

Coilovers down another .5" and kartboy front endlinks because one of the whiteline was binding- very responsive but I was at the point where I was fighting CV and control arm angle and preloading the sway bars due to the subframe spacers.

 

RB slotted 2 piece front rotors/ slotted rear rotors-stops incredibly well on street pads.

 

Subframe spacers removed-added Cusco version II arm bar/STI steering linkage/group n trans mount- just getting into test drives but all the weird things it did before are gone. It does what you expect. It doesn't move side to side on expansion joints. The steering is tight. The ride is back to where it was with 1" drop because sways are not preloaded. It still needs an alignment but it really is fun to drive. Again, I know there is a new blue piece under there so better[emoji2369].

 

I'm sure I've used incorrect handling terminology throughout this post because I'm just a guy that likes to drive fast thru canyons

 

 

 

 

Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk

Edited May 14, 2021 by norutah

[boxkita]

Best bushing press I've bought in a long time... Trailing arm bushings came out and went in like butter.

 

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

 

maker, part number?

[socalsleeper]

maker, part number?

 

I second that.

[boxkita]

Sheesh, then i might just lower the damn thing..

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

i have a lifted outback that could use a new home. It was being made into a off-road machine. Might be easier to start with a rig already there and add finishing details. It needs a new shortblock as current one failed its 1000 mile breakin.

[socalsleeper]

I couldn't justify the aluminum rear trailing arms at this point so I went with the Whiteline bushings for the front of the rear trailing arm.

 

Followed Covertrussians directions for the most part. Tried burning out the first one and levering it with a big screwdriver. I failed miserably at that, so I went with a screwdriver and a 1/4" punch.

 

[ATTACH]291753[/ATTACH]

 

Second one was half the time once I figured out how to do it. Just tap in the screwdriver on the seam to get some separation. Then switch to the punch and get to work folding it over. I picked three points so it could be slowly punched out.

 

[ATTACH]291754[/ATTACH]

 

No marks on the trailing arm, just a little wire brush to make sure it's clean, and installed the Whiteline bushings. Whenever I have the time I can move them over to some aluminum trailing arms.

 

The old bushings had 212k miles on them and were torn. New bushing fixed the annoying squeak I had from the rear. Feels very nice and solid in the rear now, time to get the alignment refreshed.

 

Bravo buddy, I have done this (hammer and chisel method) and it is not exactly what I call fun. The best part is I had my aluminum arms powder coated and they were supposed to press out my old bushings before they coated and they "forgot". So I had to be extra careful getting the old bushings out; it was mostly a success only a few minor nicks here and there.

 

I took a slightly different approach at one point. I used an autozone ball joint press to tear the rubber out of the sleeves since none of the adapters were the right size for the bushing. I then used a hack saw to cut a section out of the steel sleeve being careful not to cut into the aluminum. Just about 1/2 inch wide. I used my punch to get that 1/2" section out (it curled up like a fruit rollup) then the sleeve would just collapse with little effort.

[Infosecdad]

maker, part number?

 

Sure looks like one of these:

 

https://smile.amazon.com/SUNROAD-Universal-Bearing-Insertion-Extraction/dp/B073WQX8VB

[ChadChrist]

i have a lifted outback that could use a new home. It was being made into a off-road machine. Might be easier to start with a rig already there and add finishing details. It needs a new shortblock as current one failed its 1000 mile breakin.

 

 

Pricing + pictures?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Infosecdad]

Bravo buddy, I have done this (hammer and chisel method) and it is not exactly what I call fun. The best part is I had my aluminum arms powder coated and they were supposed to press out my old bushings before they coated and they "forgot". So I had to be extra careful getting the old bushings out; it was mostly a success only a few minor nicks here and there.

 

I took a slightly different approach at one point. I used an autozone ball joint press to tear the rubber out of the sleeves since none of the adapters were the right size for the bushing. I then used a hack saw to cut a section out of the steel sleeve being careful not to cut into the aluminum. Just about 1/2 inch wide. I used my punch to get that 1/2" section out (it curled up like a fruit rollup) then the sleeve would just collapse with little effort.

 

I was close to doing it that way, I had used a dremel to cut the first one to try to get it to collapse on itself as I couldn't find my hacksaw blade that would fit. But ended up finding that it wasn't that hard to just punch it out. PB Blaster may have helped there, once I got the edges curled, I sprayed some in there and when I punched them out, most of the inside was wet from the penetration of the PB Blaster. I also don't really have to deal with any rust as this used to be a Cali car, so that might also contribute.

[norutah]

i have a lifted outback that could use a new home. It was being made into a off-road machine. Might be easier to start with a rig already there and add finishing details. It needs a new shortblock as current one failed its 1000 mile breakin.

Does this lifted outback happen to be an XT?

 

Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk

[socalsleeper]

I was close to doing it that way, I had used a dremel to cut the first one to try to get it to collapse on itself as I couldn't find my hacksaw blade that would fit. But ended up finding that it wasn't that hard to just punch it out. PB Blaster may have helped there, once I got the edges curled, I sprayed some in there and when I punched them out, most of the inside was wet from the penetration of the PB Blaster. I also don't really have to deal with any rust as this used to be a Cali car, so that might also contribute.

 

I got my control arms from a JDM importer, so they came from the mother-land if you will. I put all whiteline bits in there so the rear should be as tight as a banjo once i'm done with her.

[seanyb505]

I wish this bushing pressing conversation happened a few weeks ago. That sunroad kit looks like exactly what I would like. I'm getting close to install so a local shop gets the pleasure.

[Kojak]

Again, I know there is a new blue piece under there so better[emoji2369].

 

I'm sure I've used incorrect handling terminology throughout this post because I'm just a guy that likes to drive fast thru canyons

 

Like the write-up from an intuitive driver’s perspective on each successive mod. And bc blue is better. Positive my Cusco radiator shroud and strut tower bar are good for +3 whp.

[B-BGTLimited]

Yes sunroad from Amazon. Sometimes you need to improvise with one end but it makes it very effortless. It's not "cheap" but the threads are tough and the roller washer is the best feature.

 

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

[rhino6303]

I have the HF version of that and the hub shark. I've beat the snot out of it over the last several years. It uses a bolt instead of threaded rod. I jave replaced the bolt in my kit sonce the threads died after a year or so of abuse.

 

I really like the roller bearing on that set you have. I may pick some bearings up to try and fit my setup.

[boxkita]

Pricing + pictures?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

pm me a cell number

[boxkita]

Does this lifted outback happen to be an XT?

 

Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk

 

it's a rad piece of kit. builder wanted a rock crawler/baja1000 racer/something else.

super rare jdm low range 6mt. vf37 twin scroll with all the bits. built block and heads (block is ventilated). massive front bumper with winch mount. massive yakima rack & basket. skid plates. truck bed armor coat on the lower body panels.

 

sitting next to the race wagon, it's wildly out of place.

 

I was going to buy an iag closed deck block, put the existing heads on, hook up all the pieces, find a cobb tuner, then go find a new hobby. The huskies think its cool. my wife said never. so far, it's just a dust collector like the other stuff.

 

working at the dealership is still kicking my butt, so working on something else has been a non starter. school starts soon, so i expect to have some free time.

 

still...I'm sure someone who was into off-roading would love this. I'm more of a baja1000 person.

[boxkita]

supposed to be a super slow day at work today. taking in one of shralp's prodrive wheels for test fitting new tires. our dealership throws away an amazing number of michelin supersports tires every day. most in the 4-5mm tread depth range. 18" tires are rare but 19" is pretty common.

 

having a steady supply of gently used summer tires is too hard to pass up.

[solidxsnake]

Installed an AEM320 fuel pump on Thursday night... what a massive PITA. Everything was pretty straightforward besides removing/reinstalling the metal retaining ring around the fuel pump assembly. Haven't taken the car out for a spin yet (or even started it, for that matter...), but I'm getting a P0183 code after re-assembly. Hoping it goes away after some driving...

[Kojak]

Went for a battery-charging cruise yesterday. All this bushing convo has me suspecting it’s a rear control arm in back needing replacement. Damn squeak is louder after adding sound deadening. My front lca’s were reported shot by a chain alignment shop a few months ago, no trust in their opinion/evaluation though. Been almost four years since my suspension revision so prolly due all ‘round. Oh joy. And while my battery karma is fine, it didn’t extend to wifey’s ‘20 foz touring. Totally dead last night, my jump box fully charged wouldn’t cut it. And yes, I woulda jumped it with my new batt if she wasn’t pulled in to a stall w folks on either side of her. So glad I don’t have the suite of electronic drains (power lift gate, keyless entry, etc.) on a modern mobile. 15 year old wagon ftw!

[busyychild]

Small effort for a big change. Ordered all the parts for my new to me 2008 SpecB timing belt change . Having A local Subaru specialist perform the install.

 

Timing Belt Kit (Aisin TKF-004)

• 21111AA240 - Water Pump
  
• 21116AA010 - Timing Cover “Z” Bend Gasket
  
• 21236AA010 - Gasket, Water Pump Outlet -
  
• 13028AA240 - Timing Belt
  
• 13033AA042 - Hydraulic Tensioner Bearing Assembly
  
• 13073AA142 - Idler Bearing Right upper & lower
  

 

Thermostat & other Gaskets

• 21210AA030 - Thermostat & Gasket kit (21200AA072 & 21236AA010)
  
• 806742160 - Camshaft Gasket top x2 (will replace as needed)
  
• 806732160 - Camshaft Gasket bottom x2 (will replace as needed)
  
• 806733030 - Crankshaft Gasket (will replace as needed)
  

 

Belts

• 809214500 - AC Compressor Belt
  
• 809218370 - Water Pump/Alternator Belt
  

 

Other

• TS-SU-585 - Cylinder 4 Cooling Mod
  

Edited May 15, 2021 by busyychild

[Max Capacity]

Ok I finally got around to having the rear suspension rebuilt. Well be dropping the wagon off to the trusted mechanic on Tuesday afternoon.

 

I ordered $66 worth of new OEM bolts, nuts & cam washers. Lots of rust under there, I have been spraying the stuff with Aero-Kroil a couple of times, I was able to get some nuts and bolts to break loose, but I think I'll bite the bullet and pay the man.