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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Been chipping away at a bunch of little things before I can get into power mods for my car.

 

Due to a twisted ankle, I asked my trusted local repair shop to install sway bar bushings and links and also replace the right rear wheel bearing, which was starting to get annoying.

 

As of today, I am two OCV's and one Turbine2 sensor away from enjoying total mechanical salvation!

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Yeah that's about what I'm down to in order to finish this car... Swapped the manifolds from my daily to this one since my heat shields existed... And that lower plastic shield also had to be moved over to this car since it was missing. It's amazing how much of this 06 was in such good condition and what wasn't as well as missing.

 

That up pipe is quite fresh... It's a catless that came with the 06 so he clearly got it from somewhere else.

 

Cannibalizing the 07 more and more each day... LOL

 

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I see your car is black.. are semi local to New England? I could use a thing or 2...

 

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Did the oil change last night. I added oil a week a half ago to top it off, but draining the oil from the catch basin to a gallon jug only filled the jug half way...

 

I always used Wix filters for every other car I had but I had a problem where Wix filters would unscrew themselves on the Subaru. I currently have an Amzoil filter on the car now and this seems to hold tight with no problems. It got to the point where I would have to get under the car and hand-tighten the Wix filter on a monthly basis. The oil in a Subaru seems to have the same mindset as a 10 mm socket - it keeps trying to escape.

 

I've been alternating between the PureOne and the Wix. I picked the a PureOne while I was running my Friday errands since there were no Wix to be had in the county. I think I had the Wix filter that tightened up! I had to get some channel locks to twist it off.

 

Is anyone still running the "Big Kahuna" filter on their Legacy anymore?

 

If memory serves me right that was an RX8 filter, this was larger but had the same specs from a bypass valve, and micron filtering specification. I think you gained a little bit of oil capacity, nothing extreme, maybe 1/2 a quart at best...

On the plus side more surface area of the filter would give you more life when strictly talking about removing debris from the oil.

 

This bit of knowledge may have been lost in the void.

 

There is a whole thread about it so I doubt it would be lost to the void.

 

SC

Edited by Smithcraft

1994 Legacy MI

2008 Legacy GT specB

2023 Crosstrek Limited

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I see your car is black.. are semi local to New England? I could use a thing or 2...

 

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Lots is rusty or slated for backups for me but hit me up with what you're looking for. I'm in north east CT so IN New England ;)

 

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Edited by B-BGTLimited
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thanks I'm going to head down that BNR path

I also just ordered Bryan's 20g for the LGT-

 

 

 

why the question?

 

because stock is not fine- I used Mikes/Infamous direct oil lines for my first BNR turbo, but after six years and 30k my BNR TD06-50 has way too much play in the shaft. Bryan's setup uses a plate under the oilfilter that provides enough pressure and volume.

thx

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I've run the stock setup on my 07's VF46 for around 100k with filters installed and that thing still feels the same as when I put it in... I went with all stock stuff on my VF52 setup as well, filters installed and stock banjo restrictor.

 

Not sure why so many people have problems.

 

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I've run the stock setup on my 07's VF46 for around 100k with filters installed and that thing still feels the same as when I put it in... I went with all stock stuff on my VF52 setup as well, filters installed and stock banjo restrictor.

 

Not sure why so many people have problems.

 

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I have to agree, don't understand why people feel the stock metal oil feed pipe is a issue. Almost 297,000 miles on the stock oil feed pipe.

 

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Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Struggling with some caliper bracket bolts. Soaked them in pb and going to take another shot later.

 

Aero-Kroil is better stuff, just a little harder to find. They say, 50/50 acetone and automatic tranny fluid works great too.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Aero-Kroil is better stuff, just a little harder to find. They say, 50/50 acetone and automatic tranny fluid works great too.

 

 

Dang should have ordered some when I ordered trans fluid. Forgot about it.

 

Getting ready to do trans fluid and maybe a few other things since it's nice out and I'm not working.

 

 

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Oh this was a fun day... At least I got to drive it for a 50 mile break in before ripping the interior out of it.

 

That's the 07 dash... 06 one came out shortly after. Found both had broken "radio boxes" as they call it and got shit lucky to find one on ebay for $29.

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This is the least broken radio box from my 07, one leg cracked off and the hole for the glove box clip is also broken.

 

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Aero-Kroil is better stuff, just a little harder to find. They say, 50/50 acetone and automatic tranny fluid works great too.

 

Will definitely keep an eye out for that stuff. Took everything I had but was able to get them loose with a breaker bar, thought they were going to snap. Put some anti seize on the threads and torqued them down to spec.

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Will definitely keep an eye out for that stuff. Took everything I had but was able to get them loose with a breaker bar, thought they were going to snap. Put some anti seize on the threads and torqued them down to spec.

 

Sorry, I didn't think of it earlier, but if you can hit the head of the breaker bar with a hammer while trying to loosen the bolt, (basically making like an impact gun) that can help.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Bought a set of used, slightly curb rashed OE 5-spoke wheels with a decent set of tires on them.

 

Replaced the plastic trim piece that goes around the trunk latch.

 

Bought a replacement sunroof switch/map light console.. dealer said mine was messed up and the passenger side airbag wouldn’t work without it. :shrug:

 

Now I just need to get these winter tires off.

 

Might have to wait till Wednesday. [emoji853]

 

 

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Looked at it sitting sans motor and noticed that the spot of rust I found on the driver's rear arch has gotten worse while it's been sitting. Machine shop is done with block but between mandatory OT at work, school, and trying to get my friend's blown up Forester up and running I don't think I'll get to it for a while :(
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Bought a replacement sunroof switch/map light console.. dealer said mine was messed up and the passenger side airbag wouldn’t work without it. :shrug:

 

That's a common issue actually. Happened to my 07 and I had an airbag light on my 06. It can actually be fixed by re-soldering the lights and components on that board that indicates if the airbag is on or not, they apparently didn't use enough solder so the joints are prone to cracking and causing a disconnect.

 

The carnage from yesterday... LOL

 

06 dash ended up being sticky... Thankfully my 07 one is not. :) oh side note... Anyone know how to get the 06 steering wheel controls to work on the 07 radio? Possible or not?

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Edited by B-BGTLimited
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Wanted to refresh my mufflers and rear sway bar, etc.. Sand and repaint, lube everything, and replace the hardware bc couple bolts snapped coming out.

 

My Cobb bar has literally no original paint left on it and neither do the stout mounts. Coils and brakes look nice, it'll be great to look under the car and not only see surface rust. I'm probably going to slowly start going at the frame with a brush and get it all cleaned up and repainted too.

 

I have a vid without the mufflers and it's pretty ridiculous

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JDM TGVs are on. Super great OEM option if anyone is looking to stay side feed while ditching the TGV setup. Scored them for $50/set on FB.

 

Also started putting all the PCV crap back together after cleaning years of grime off of the top of the block. New PCV tree assembly installed, cleaned and painted the original hard lines that run under the manifold, and got some bulk PCV hose to replace the cracked OEM crap with (I can't justify $20 per OEM hose, sorry). Vibrant silicone vacuum hose kit should be here this week as well.

 

Also pulled the oil pan and was amazed to find no metal shards, just a bit of slightly metallic sludge that I believe is normal especially for an engine that sat for 2 years. :) Killer B pickup should go on after I get done cleaning the pan, and then it's onto getting the vacuum mess sorted out and installing the nearly new OEM turbo that came with the spare engine.

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Replaced the leaky OEM power steering pump with a reman one. Process wasn't too bad - just tight quarters working in that area.

 

The front two pump bracket bolts thread onto lugs on the block. I didn't even get to the specified 15 ft/lbs before they sheared the aluminum threads right off. Quick trip to Home Depot for some Grade 8 bolts; the right-side longer bolt was replaced with an M8x1.25 x 50mm and the left-side shorter bolt was replaced with a 30mm long bolt (I think OEMs are about 40mm & 25mm respectively). Added some blue loctite and was able to properly torque them down. According to other forums, not all of the threads on the block lugs are used with the shorter OEM bolts so longer bolts are an option if you run into what I did. Now to find a gasket kit to repair the OEM pump.

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