What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[xt2005bonbon]

I would guess it would probably take me 2-3hrs all told to do it.

 

 

That's not bad.

 

 

 

Been procrastinating the install of a new dash because airbag recall..

[B-BGTLimited]

Success! Aux works, steering wheel controls work, under seat sub still works, and XM radio works. I'm done for the night.

 

My i85 harness pinned into the 06 console plug.

 

i85 plug with my harness plugged in.

 

AUX plug integrated into 06 console sub harness.

 

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Edited April 8, 2021 by B-BGTLimited

[boxkita]

On a whim I wandered over to the Audi dealership at lunch. There's a smoke gray Avant RS6 sitting on the showroom floor. Salesman let me sit in it and make vroom noises. The automatic is such a bummer because the rest of it screams "bad ass wagon".

 

I told my wife Id be willing to live in it (our litmus test). 140k including 20k of dealer profit. Audi isn't making any more new engines and plans to be fully electric by 2025. This is a unicorn.

 

I wonder if Bat would value my wagon at 150k like that 22b?

[evil03mustang]

So many questions...

 

how old are the tires ?

what shape are all the bushing in, on the front and rear suspension ?

how old are the struts ?

are the ball joints in good shape ?

Are these snow tires or summer tires ?

 

May be you should start your own thread so its easier to find the results in one place.

 

 

Tires date code is q4 2019, Goodyear eagle RSA. 7/32 tread or better. Suspension is all original, car is 05 LGTL 5EAT, 182,000 miles.

Suspension bushings have been replaced. Suspension passes the “does anything need replaced for an alignment?” Test.

 

I’m thinking the struts are just past their life expectancy. I have access to specB parts... might as well just do it? I need somebody to tell me how different it feels.

 

 

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[Max Capacity]

Ok, my 09 Spec B is not much different then the stock set up on my wagon overall. The 09 is a much more refined car compared to the wagon when it was new.

 

The Spec B struts will be a improvement over what your on now.

 

I'll also say the Koni sport yellows and Epic springs made a great handling improvement on the wagon, it handles much better then the Spec B. With stock sway bars the wagon corners fairly flat. Every time I drive the Spec around the same corner (off camber) in the neighborhood, I think "the wagon takes this corner so much flatter"

 

It's a corner that I coast around because it's about 300ft from a stop sign. I take the corner about 35mph.

 

On the highway the Spec, (95,000 miles) is a nicer ride. I have the Koni's a quarter turn off "firm". On backroads the wagon lets you know what the pavement feels like, but is fun when pushed. Though the Spec B pulls off the corners better, but that has more to do with the 6mt.

 

Is that what you are looking for, for a difference between the two ? The Koni's have 130,000 miles on them.

 

 

Just remembered, when I used to go to work, getting off the exit ramp to enter the parking lot at work, there was this downhill ramp with a right bend at the bottom, (apex) then a uphill onto the access road into the parking lot. Both cars would take that curve at 50mph but felt different doing it.

 

Here's the satellite view of that exit ramp off Rt20 into work. Notice the right curve near the lower left corner of that big parking lot. (look just below the "C" in UTC.

 

https://www.google.com/maps/place/Hamilton+Rd,+Connecticut/@41.9183645,-72.6852094,930m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m5!3m4!1s0x89e6fe0ca48517db:0xb9e8b9b16f786917!8m2!3d41.9228324!4d-72.68461

Edited April 8, 2021 by Max Capacity

[B-BGTLimited]

My epic springs both broke at least two coils off the rear. I ended up going with H&R and Koni and love that setup.

 

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[BoozeRS05]

Out of the box I feel like suspension is the #1 biggest need for an upgrade on the LGT. Specifically the OE rear sway bar and struts.

[Code]

Agreed. It’s an even better improvement when you add a heavier spring to the rear vs the front. Front McP strut style vs rear multi-link means a mismatch in actual rate. They just don’t work the same.

 

Also FWIW. OFF-throttle corners don’t count. Drive the suspension through the corners. The more push the better it all works.

[apexi]

Finally replaced my clutch yesterday. Dealership in another state installed it a little over 20k ago in late 2018, they also did the rear main seal because they said it was leaking. Noticed engine oil leak coming straight back to the transmission drain plug sometime after, months after. No idea where it was coming from, ignored it. Later tried to trace it by cleaning repeatedly, no idea. Clutch started slipping last summer after 15k, made me really suspicious of the rear main seal. Also noticed oil seepage coming out of starter hole, pulled starter, covered in light oil film.

 

After pulling the engine, my untrained eyes still have no idea with 100% confidence where the leak is coming from. I wiped my finger under the rear main seal in the pic, so the metal looks shiny and clean, but it didn't scream oil leak there. I do see some gunk on the bottom of the seal, but I don't know how abnormal that is. I replaced the seal anyway. Pulling engines alone, and trying to get it done in one day sucks, even on a non-turbo. No pics of the old disc and pressure plate because they weren't much to look at, but the back of the engine and the bell housing were a mess..

[Nonamedude]

Looks like a rear main seal to me. I think the only other place out could come from is that plate bolted on to the right of the picture. The big one. Can't remember exactly what that goes to.

 

 

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[Max Capacity]

Agree the rear main looks a little damp at 6 o'clock area.

 

Here's my old engine at 154,000 miles.

 

Edited April 10, 2021 by Max Capacity

[seanyb505]

Looks like a rear main seal to me. I think the only other place out could come from is that plate bolted on to the right of the picture. The big one. Can't remember exactly what that goes to.

 

 

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I think they go to the cylinders ,to be able to remove pistons. I guess it's possible oil could come through there?

[apexi]

I agree the seal does look a little bit suspicious at the 6 o'clock area, hopefully I didn't f up replacing it, and that will be the fix. I actually bought a replacement plate and bolts, but even though the torque spec on those bolts is low, the one I tried loosening didn't want to budge and the hex head felt like it was slipping a little. I think I read that the heads on those bolts like to strip, so I decided to take a chance and leave it alone since I don't think they're known to leak on our cars.

 

I'm actually a little bit suspicious of the rear oil pan gasket. If I do notice the same leak, I'm going to take a chance and replace and reseal the oil pan, and the stupid little $15 o-ring that goes inside it. I thought about doing that last year, but decided against it since I've heard it's not common for our pans to leak. Was worried about doing more harm than good. Edit: I wonder if this could be from leaky head gaskets since external oil leaks from the bottom are common on the non-turbos like mine. I'm also thinking about just ditching it if the leak continues, wrenching isn't as much fun as it used to be, at least not when it's my only car and I can't take my sweet time.

Edited April 10, 2021 by apexi

[Nonamedude]

I agree the seal does look a little bit suspicious at the 6 o'clock area, hopefully I didn't f up replacing it, and that will be the fix. I actually bought a replacement plate and bolts, but even though the torque spec on those bolts is low, the one I tried loosening didn't want to budge and the hex head felt like it was slipping a little. I think I read that the heads on those bolts like to strip, so I decided to take a chance and leave it alone since I don't think they're known to leak on our cars.

 

I'm actually a little bit suspicious of the rear oil pan gasket. If I do notice the same leak, I'm going to take a chance and replace and reseal the oil pan, and the stupid little $15 o'ring that goes inside it. I thought about doing that last year, but decided against it since I've heard it's not common for our pans to leak. Was worried about doing more harm than good.

 

 

I don't think it's that plate honestly. It looks like the seal, my comment was mostly just that there's not really anywhere else for it to come from lol.

 

Hopefully it's all good and you don't need to pull it in another 15k miles.

 

 

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[B-BGTLimited]

Defiantly a rear main seal if not also a trans input shaft seal.

 

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[Infosecdad]

Yes, that is an access plate and it can leak oil.

 

I did a few things...

 

Brought my '05 up to modern spec for audio with a Pioneer touchscreen, wireless charging, and wireless Carplay.

 

 

 

I also have a tendency to make bad choices late at night on buyee...

I picked up a Ganador Titan Titanium axleback... Shipping was much cheaper than I thought it would be, probably because they weight less than 15lbs together. Perfect length with a JDM bumper, it's almost like they were designed for it

 

 

 

I love my Stromung, but I still prefer the look of dual pipes on the 4th gen wagons over quad pipes. And the sound of the titanium at full throttle I'll get a recording sometime and post it.

 

I have a stack of parts I need to take pictures of and post in the classifieds, I need to fund my next bad idea (6mt)

[Neal Cassady]

6MT is a great idea. The front diff is a substantial difference (if you go STI 6MT). And I haven’t even got to mess with the DCCD yet.

[solidxsnake]

I agree the seal does look a little bit suspicious at the 6 o'clock area, hopefully I didn't f up replacing it, and that will be the fix. I actually bought a replacement plate and bolts, but even though the torque spec on those bolts is low, the one I tried loosening didn't want to budge and the hex head felt like it was slipping a little.

 

Getting that plate off almost always requires an impact screwdriver (the kind you set in the screw head and hit with a hammer). The purpose is to get access inside the block to remove the circlips and punch out the wrist pins holding the pistons to the rods. Agree with the rest, looks like the rear main seal leaking, not the access plate. Doubt it's the oil pan, personally.

[Nonamedude]

Yes, that is an access plate and it can leak oil.

 

I did a few things...

 

Brought my '05 up to modern spec for audio with a Pioneer touchscreen, wireless charging, and wireless Carplay.

 

[ATTACH]291251[/ATTACH]

 

 

I also have a tendency to make bad choices late at night on buyee...

I picked up a Ganador Titan Titanium axleback... Shipping was much cheaper than I thought it would be, probably because they weight less than 15lbs together. Perfect length with a JDM bumper, it's almost like they were designed for it

 

[ATTACH]291252[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]291253[/ATTACH]

 

I love my Stromung, but I still prefer the look of dual pipes on the 4th gen wagons over quad pipes. And the sound of the titanium at full throttle I'll get a recording sometime and post it.

 

I have a stack of parts I need to take pictures of and post in the classifieds, I need to fund my next bad idea (6mt)

 

 

Do those stromung mufflers work on the stock mid pipe?

 

 

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[Infosecdad]

Do those stromung mufflers work on the stock mid pipe?

 

 

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No, they are a full catback only. There were 10 wagon sets made, this is one of those ten. I had to buy a Manzo catback off eBay to get a 3" midpipe to run the Ganadors.

[Kojak]

Infosecdad, which Pioneer head unit did you go with? I am a week into driving with my AV 310-EX, not exactly crazy about it yet. Looks like yours also didn’t mount quite flush? Mine is recessed about the same.

[B-BGTLimited]

I've been told it's an upgrade from what was in there....

 

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[Infosecdad]

Infosecdad, which Pioneer head unit did you go with? I am a week into driving with my AV 310-EX, not exactly crazy about it yet. Looks like yours also didn’t mount quite flush? Mine is recessed about the same.

 

It's a DMH-2660NEX.

It was a little flaky at first with the plugin Carplay, but been good since I added the CPLAY2Air adapter for wireless Carplay.

 

There are two ways to bring it more flush, the first is a little bit, the second is a bit more.

 

1. Use a dremel or similar with a grind to connect two holes in the mounting bracket. That will bring it up to touch the front bezel. It's still set back a bit due to the lip in the back of the bezel.

 

2. Use a dremel with a cutting wheel to VERY carefully trim the inside lip, which pull it even more flush. You just have to be really careful. I think if you do that, you might not need to connect the mounting holes, as it might move far enough forward to use the next hole.

 

[Gex]

Took my little Nissan Pao to a C&C yesterday and met up with Gunnar. Checked out his awesome wagon. Looks so nice in person. That body molding delete on the side really changes the body line. I may do the same if I re-spray my car.

 

[

[xt2005bonbon]

No, they are a full catback only. There were 10 wagon sets made, this is one of those ten. I had to buy a Manzo catback off eBay to get a 3" midpipe to run the Ganadors.

 

 

Only 10 wagon sets made?? I own of these. I should feel special