LGTorv

what happened to the low legacy thread?

Hi all, I'm looking to purchase either an entire OBP trunk or just the panel that has the license plate and badges on it. Mine's cracked and I'd love to just drop a new one in but a whole trunk would probably suffice as well. I don't care if it has non-GT badging. I am also looking for a front lip; Bayson R seems to be out of stock and it seems like they supply the only decent eBay listing for a preface USDM bumper lip as well. Told me 2-3 months for restock so if any of you have one kicking around I'll gladly buy it. Willing to drive a fair bit. Located 19446 - Philly suburbs. Thanks!

Any plans to hit Boxerfest in York on Sunday? Hoping to go; I could use those timing cover gaskets and I'll take the rest of the stuff off your hands if it's just gonna get scrapped.

Oh, to add, I know a lot of you have 05s. I'll try this on my P201-UH at some point but I'd bet they're similar enough that it would work.

Hey everyone, I'm a student at the moment and don't have $300+ to drop on a JDM radio fascia + head unit, and with AE64 seemingly inactive and the Jazzy boards no longer being made, I couldn't find a way to "cheaply" get aux in my car. I know there's the upgraded headunit from the later LGTs + Impreza aux harness option still available, but there's an even cheaper option that a friend sent me recently. Granted, it's pretty ghetto and the new headunit option is what most of you would probably spring for, but that aside, here's the video I was sent. Basically, the switch bypasses two traces in the PCB. When the aux jack is unplugged it lets the FM signal through, and when it's plugged in it just sends the aux signal through the trace instead. Here's the Digikey link: https://www.digikey.com/short/3w55b2 I attempted it myself, although I made the wiring too short so it doesn't quite reach the ash tray/cubby where I initially planned to install it. Been working well for a couple weeks now. I also got a ground loop noise isolator although I didn't end up noticing much static without it though. Thought I'd share here since it worked so well for being $4. (yes the tape in the pic was temporary lol)

PMed. New LGT came with some rubber ones that I don't care to drive with. Thanks!

Any updates on this? Looking forward to it if things are working out.

PM sent

Nah, don't worry about it. Thanks though. I need some fairly small ones apparently and I didn't see them in your spreadsheet.

4S3BL676566203789 '06 GT Limited BSM/Black/5MT - scrapped after I found poor collision repair and significant damage 4S3BL676766204183 '06 GT Limited OBP/Black/5MT - to be scrapped shortly. I repaired what I could but ended up giving in due to rust. 4S3BL676056227996 '05 GT Limited OBP/Black/5MT - Turbo failure a few thousand ago, then ringland failure. On its second(?) trans. Will be getting a "new" engine from my parted out '06.

Whew. Decided to Scotchbrite my journals to bring the high spots down. Ran it by a couple people that I trust and they think it'll be fine, so I'm kinda just hoping to get as many miles as I can out of this engine. Definitely not ideal but I refuse to pour more money into this longblock than I already have. Drained the oil from the spare 255 with ringland failure. I have never see oil so thin before. However, it didn't have metal flakes. I believe the heads on that engine will be in acceptable condition, and if I can get a good deal on a type RA shortblock I'd like to refinish them and go for 400 if/when this block goes. Finally measured the valve clearances properly tonight. I had to put a whole heads worth of buckets back in so the tolerances were pretty off but I believe it's accurate enough that I can figure out what buckets to order. I also cataloged the leftover buckets that I have and measured the real values with my new micrometer. Went with a $50 Fowler which I'm pretty happy with.

Anyone still exchanging buckets? Looking for something like 483 or 485. Smallest I have right now is a 490 which I'll probably need to reuse anyways. I'll buy them if nobody wants to exchange, $28 per is just a bit obnoxious.

Decided maybe I'm not going the 20x route. I talked to a few friends that are more experienced than I and they said I'll be alright if I just let the journals/cams be, with maybe a light polish. I cleaned up the burrs on the one journal today and started mixing buckets around to bring valve clearances into spec. Worst one so far was about .4-.5mm out of range.

A little sad today. Finally took the driver's side cam carriers/caps off and got to see how bad the journals are. The one bucket is actually stuck underneath the lip of crushed aluminum journal. For context, the car that I got this engine from went YNANSB about 60k miles ago. Subaru replaced the bottom end and ONLY the passenger side head under warranty, and this is the head that was just put back on. I guess it's been fine for the last 60k but that sure is a lot of wear. Guess I'll have my extra set of heads refreshed instead of this, since they're a proper matching set. Looks like a full head refresh will be $500-$1000 with a fairly long lead time, so I'm heavily, heavily considering buying a 20x in the mean time and learning to tune on it. Local place has them at $650, and got a quote from iWire for the exhaust AVCS harness. Cheap enough for me to be on the fence about it. I also got an E85 station installed recently so I think that would go well with the higher CR of the 20x. I know you guys don't like 20x swaps around here though.

<pic attached> I'm still procrastinating the subframe drop. Been dealing with engine and school stuff, but a quick measurement says 9.5" between the two mounting brackets. You might still have to add the length of the pieces in the blue rectangle to get the length of the full line though. Best I can do for now.

This was the shell that was for sale on FBMP recently right? Was really close to buying it. Good luck with the build, excited to see where it goes.

(Pic attached) That's the front. ~20.5" total. I don't have the rears lying around right now, should be dropping a subframe soon so I'll let you know if I get around to measuring the rears.

Nothing crazy but I'm chugging along. Put my Killer B pickup on last night and resealed my oil pan with Hondabond HT. Hopefully I didn't overdo it, the last pan reseal was done by a dealer and had tons of excess sealant. Also started putting my intake manifold back together. New gaskets and everything, AutoZone generic PCV hose and also got out the nice Vibrant silicone hose kit for the vacuum lines. It's nice to see it starting to come back together. Also got my 06 front bumper and lights onto the new car, which makes me happy. The old bumper was missing a lot of clearcoat and I much prefer the full chrome headlight housing on OBP cars.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/873166443460449 They require some modification for the metal manifolds but it lines up with my plastic one.

JDM TGVs are on. Super great OEM option if anyone is looking to stay side feed while ditching the TGV setup. Scored them for $50/set on FB. Also started putting all the PCV crap back together after cleaning years of grime off of the top of the block. New PCV tree assembly installed, cleaned and painted the original hard lines that run under the manifold, and got some bulk PCV hose to replace the cracked OEM crap with (I can't justify $20 per OEM hose, sorry). Vibrant silicone vacuum hose kit should be here this week as well. Also pulled the oil pan and was amazed to find no metal shards, just a bit of slightly metallic sludge that I believe is normal especially for an engine that sat for 2 years. Killer B pickup should go on after I get done cleaning the pan, and then it's onto getting the vacuum mess sorted out and installing the nearly new OEM turbo that came with the spare engine.

I see them around $1300 right now, sold mine at 1k/each when the prices were rising a few weeks ago.

Anyone have a turbo inlet they'd be willing to part with? Would prefer an aftermarket one but if you have an OEM one in good condition (not ripped) that works too. I think I need the 05/06 style. IIRC the WRX and 07+ fitment has a different BPV hose and I'd prefer not to need to change that out as well. Might be a long shot, might not be. PayPal ready if you're interested in shipping. Cash if we meet in person. Thanks!

Hey everyone, finally got my LGT running and driving well a few months ago. I pulled the fuel tank and rear subframe and ground down and repainted all the rust I could find underneath. I got to drive it around for a little while and then I decided that switching to a new shell would leave me with an overall nicer build, as the old shell, despite all of the work I had put into it, was still in rough condition. D/S rear quarter panel had been in a low speed accident and was slightly misaligned, paint was rough, and the rust had still caused enough damage to the underbody that I didn't really want to pour money into it. The new 05 on the left: I scored it for $1300, which isn't particularly great, but the interior is in great condition and the paint is surprisingly decent for 16 year old Subaru black. I was able to get 1k for the stock downpipe off the car so that made things a lot more tolerable. It has ringland failure on #3, compression tested at 90psi. I plan on moving the 06's engine over to it for now, and maybe purchasing a type RA block down the road if I can justify the cost. I pulled the two engines recently, the first took 5 hours and the second 2.5 or so, which is a personal record for me at least. I probably spent half of that time messing with fuel line disconnects but whatever, it's out now. In the process, I broke this vacuum nipple off of the brake booster check valve. Is it possible to take the check valve off separately instead of replacing the whole booster? I have the vacation pics so it's not a big deal if I have to replace it. Not much else has happened since I pulled the engines. I'm currently cleaning the 06 block up as the previous owner let it sit for a long time and it's got a layer of dirt mixed with power steering fluid and oil all over the top of the block. Waiting on my oil cooler lines to get here and hopefully I won't have much else to do besides that. I might order a Moroso pickup to be extra safe depending on how long they take to ship. One last question, I have a P204-UH ready to go in the car but I don't have the i85 harness that SVXdc used to make. Emailed him twice but haven't gotten a response back. Does anyone here make them? I just want to add an aux input to the back of the radio; steering wheel controls don't matter. Thanks!

Might be interested in the baffle and pan. Any downside to running them in a daily/street car?

I have one; I pulled it from my running 06 about 2 years ago. It has some corrosion on the bottom but it didn't have any effect. $100 shipped sound reasonable? Not sure exactly what it's worth. Hopefully the pictures loaded properly.