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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Thanks, I'll take a look. When you say no issues - do you mean that you're able to hit fueling targets, or that you also don't see any fuel pressure droop on power (stays 1:1 with manifold pressure)?

 

I have enough injector overhead that AFRs are fine just running at a higher duty cycle than they *should* be but still with margin, but I noticed in my fuel pressure logs that the fuel to manifold pressure ratio pulls down to 0.8:1 on power because the pump can't keep up with demand.

 

I would have to ask JR about that one. He tuned my car and prior to hitting the dyno he advised me to hardwire the pump. During the tuning process I asked him if there were any fueling issues (as a follow-up to his wiring request) and he told me that everything was fine. I’d be happy to pull some data logs for you if you’d like to look at what’s going on.

 

I’m running 21psi tapering to 18psi at redline, on an AVO380(44lb/min) so I would think that my fuel volume/flow requirements are higher than your 16g.

 

Avo380

Aem340

IWire fuel pump hardwire kit

Cobb Flex fuel kit w/ fuel pressure differential sensor

Speed/density tune

21psi peak made 375hp/425tq

 

 

 

The car that was tuned prior to mine (Bugeye wrx making 440hp) had voltage issues at the pump and they just ran some jumpers from the battery directly to the pump in order to finish his tune. The shop had a little harness laying around that they use specifically for this purpose

"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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Except for when it is time for four new wheels both sellers decide your money isn't worth their time to package and ship them to you, thus crushing your hopes of ever acquiring already-hard-to-acquire wheels. This isn't oddly specific to me or anything *pouts in corner* Edited by Febreze Mee

MILKRUN  - Click Here

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These: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5941584&postcount=1

 

OZ Crono Evos:

 

*Note: Discontinued in 2003. Same wheel used on the 1993 Celica GT-Four (ST185) in WRC, different dimensions.*

 

I was able to revive a 10year old thread on mainelysubarus.com, had a decent lead going on there (3 owners deep), then that ended. I reached out to a guy on the vwvortex forums - nothing. Reached out to a guy on here. Finally 10 months later (earlier this month), I found a set of exactly what I wanted in California. For two weeks we worked out logistics for mid-July. As I'm waiting for him to package everything up, BOOM, he hits me with the "I sold them locally." This was frustrating.

 

Enkei Gunmetal RPF1s:

 

Oakos did a limited run of these. They order in no less than 40 sets per order from the manufacture, as they are only a supplier. I bought the last two Gunmetal wheels they had, so I have two different colored half-sets of wheels on the wagon rn.

 

 

 

https://www.letgo.com/en-us/i/18x8-oz-racing-evo-crono-wheels-tires_595c49a9-6872-43f4-9afd-72f8b1a3f8b9

maxresdefault.thumb.jpg.9d1cf2fb265c44cad2297f1ba3b3a16f.jpg

MILKRUN  - Click Here

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I had a set of those on my first LGT sedan. Got them for an amazing deal, random Craigslist find and in mint condition, but sold them long ago, probably for too little. Sweet wheels.

 

Anyone have a Rockauto coupon code?

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I would have to ask JR about that one. He tuned my car and prior to hitting the dyno he advised me to hardwire the pump. During the tuning process I asked him if there were any fueling issues (as a follow-up to his wiring request) and he told me that everything was fine. I’d be happy to pull some data logs for you if you’d like to look at what’s going on.

 

I’m running 21psi tapering to 18psi at redline, on an AVO380(44lb/min) so I would think that my fuel volume/flow requirements are higher than your 16g.

 

Avo380

Aem340

IWire fuel pump hardwire kit

Cobb Flex fuel kit w/ fuel pressure differential sensor

Speed/density tune

21psi peak made 375hp/425tq

 

 

 

The car that was tuned prior to mine (Bugeye wrx making 440hp) had voltage issues at the pump and they just ran some jumpers from the battery directly to the pump in order to finish his tune. The shop had a little harness laying around that they use specifically for this purpose

 

How did he do a speed density tune on it? Was he using ROM Raider or Accessport? They didn't have a speed density rom for our cars the last time I checked in Rom Raider.

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Ok, so, a few weeks ago I discovered both of the rear toe bolts had welded themselves to the lateral arm bushings and I posted here about needing to cut them out and how I've gotten rid of other vehicles that had this issue.

 

I was dreading this job completely however a friend let me borrow his Dremel Multi-Max to try before I went for the sawzall.

 

I am very pleased to report the Multi-Max was incredible!

 

I bought a set of carbide blades, set the tool speed to 4 and went to town on the bolts while applying gear oil every so often while cutting. All things considered, I believe the total time to make all four cuts was a bit over an hour. Simply amazing tool!

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How did he do a speed density tune on it? Was he using ROM Raider or Accessport? They didn't have a speed density rom for our cars the last time I checked in Rom Raider.

 

They certainly do. Along with flex-fuel, map switching, launch control, FFS, check-engine light flashing on knock, etc. Unfortunately, it's not "easy" to set up for a car that hasn't been defined before, but once it's defined, then it's all there. Look up MerpMod (or aijiimod, etc.).

 

Now that my LGT is back up and running, I'm going to be working on trying to get live-tuning working.

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AccessPort also supports Speed Density, which is what I use.

 

Brian from IWire built me a harness to utilize factory MAF/IAT plug. I installed a Bosch IAT SENSOR near the BPV in my FMIC piping and use the factory MAFv weird to input my AEM WB02 sensor into the ECU so that I can easily monitor/log that.

 

IAG MAF blockoff plate because grimmspeed doesn’t make the correct one for their own CAI.

 

 

If you can easily read/understand this post you’ve been here too long....

Edited by Code
"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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...

 

Anyone have a Rockauto coupon code?

 

140929012130279440

 

Starting to buy various bushings for a full suspension refresh before it gets too cold or after it stops being cold during the next several months.

 

My concerns about 245/40/17 being too big are coming true. I've got decent fender rubbing on both fronts during hard cornering. I know a few others are running the same tire size and offset (+45) even lowered without issue, but I guess that issue exists for me. Freaking stock height and I'm rubbing. Blegh. Checking my last alignment in March of 2018 looks like there's almost no camber up front, -.2 and -.4. I'm sure the new suspension parts will help with that.

 

I'll roll my fenders today in the meantime. Would a FSB help? My simple brain is thinking "Less body roll, more distance from fender to tire." But then I wonder if the outside spring compresses just the same anyway, and the thicker bar just keeps the inside side of the car from coming further away from the ground.

 

I'll also measure the DBA rotor thickness today to see if that's contributing.

 

Also need to find time to rebuild my alternator.

 

Edit: Had a weird thought to measure arch height. I've been moving houses the last few weeks, so I've seen the rear very low lately lol. Almost all around I'm an inch lower than stock measurements. Tolerance is -.94" Driver front is -1.25" :eek:

Edited by seanyb505
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140929012130279440

 

Starting to buy various bushings for a full suspension refresh before it gets too cold or after it stops being cold during the next several months.

 

My concerns about 245/40/17 being too big are coming true. I've got decent fender rubbing on both fronts during hard cornering. I know a few others are running the same tire size and offset (+45) even lowered without issue, but I guess that issue exists for me. Freaking stock height and I'm rubbing. Blegh. Checking my last alignment in March of 2018 looks like there's almost no camber up front, -.2 and -.4. I'm sure the new suspension parts will help with that.

 

I'll roll my fenders today in the meantime. Would a FSB help? My simple brain is thinking "Less body roll, more distance from fender to tire." But then I wonder if the outside spring compresses just the same anyway, and the thicker bar just keeps the inside side of the car from coming further away from the ground.

 

I'll also measure the DBA rotor thickness today to see if that's contributing.

 

Also need to find time to rebuild my alternator.

 

Edit: Had a weird thought to measure arch height. I've been moving houses the last few weeks, so I've seen the rear very low lately lol. Almost all around I'm an inch lower than stock measurements. Tolerance is -.94" Driver front is -1.25" :eek:

 

What's your shock situation look like?

 

I'm on Koni yellow's with swifts (rolled fenders) and I still get occasional rubbing on hard turns but I can remedy it by adjusting the rebound to stiffer if I so choose. If I ran full stiffness I can pretty much eliminate all rubbing without drastic camber but if I go full soft I'll start rubbing again just from bumps and dips in the road while driving in a straight line.

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What's your shock situation look like?

 

I'm on Koni yellow's with swifts (rolled fenders) and I still get occasional rubbing on hard turns but I can remedy it by adjusting the rebound to stiffer if I so choose. If I ran full stiffness I can pretty much eliminate all rubbing without drastic camber but if I go full soft I'll start rubbing again just from bumps and dips in the road while driving in a straight line.

 

Springs and shocks are sad, tired OEM as far as I'm aware. At least 8 years and 81k if they were replaced right before I bought the car. At most 16 years and 237k miles.

 

Ordered the Whiteline adjustable 22m bar. Kinda wanted one anyway.

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Anyone know if the fuel damper fittings on the OEM 05-06 fuel rails are 3/8" NPT?

 

I *think* they are, but I can't find confirmation.

I might have a spare set in the garage to try to measure when I get home if no one knows.

 

Looks like the 2015-2019 STi are 3/8 NPT, I doubt they've changed in a good long while.

 

Update: was wrong. Looks like 1/8 NPT? Or close to it. I need 1/8 NPT female to 3/8 NPT female (I think)

 

Update: I'm pretty sure it's M12 x 1.25

Edited by Infosecdad
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140929012130279440

 

Starting to buy various bushings for a full suspension refresh before it gets too cold or after it stops being cold during the next several months.

 

My concerns about 245/40/17 being too big are coming true. I've got decent fender rubbing on both fronts during hard cornering. I know a few others are running the same tire size and offset (+45) even lowered without issue, but I guess that issue exists for me. Freaking stock height and I'm rubbing. Blegh. Checking my last alignment in March of 2018 looks like there's almost no camber up front, -.2 and -.4. I'm sure the new suspension parts will help with that.

 

I'll roll my fenders today in the meantime. Would a FSB help? My simple brain is thinking "Less body roll, more distance from fender to tire." But then I wonder if the outside spring compresses just the same anyway, and the thicker bar just keeps the inside side of the car from coming further away from the ground.

 

I'll also measure the DBA rotor thickness today to see if that's contributing.

 

Also need to find time to rebuild my alternator.

 

Edit: Had a weird thought to measure arch height. I've been moving houses the last few weeks, so I've seen the rear very low lately lol. Almost all around I'm an inch lower than stock measurements. Tolerance is -.94" Driver front is -1.25" :eek:

You definitely need camber to fit the setup. I have 245/40/17 with +45 wheels. I have no rubbing at all on Tokico struts and Swift springs. I run -1.5 F and -1.2 R camber for my alignment. I'd say -1ish is the lowest camber you can run in the rear without rubbing as -1.2 is fairly close to rubbing.
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Anyone know if the fuel damper fittings on the OEM 05-06 fuel rails are 3/8" NPT?

 

I *think* they are, but I can't find confirmation.

I might have a spare set in the garage to try to measure when I get home if no one knows.

 

I definitely have a spare set at the shop if you can't find yours.

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3/8NPT is pretty big, I would think its more of a metric thread pitch.

 

There are a places like Earls High Performance plumbing part of Holley that has a on line catalog.

 

https://www.bing.com/search?q=behrent%27s+performance&qs=SC&pq=bearhrent%27s&sk=SC1&sc=8-11&cvid=ADA4B2973B924510ACB6B56655303ABF&FORM=QBRE&sp=2

 

out of NY will have the fittings too.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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