awfulwaffle Posted July 22, 2020 Share Posted July 22, 2020 Mine grinds when coasting and sounds like it has rocks in it and it's still driving and shifting fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vklingman Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 Hey I am lost in this website . I just joined to network and try to find a 97-99 legacy GT sedan. Not worried about the cost just want it in decent shape. Where would I go to put this information ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 Hey I am lost in this website . I just joined to network and try to find a 97-99 legacy GT sedan. Not worried about the cost just want it in decent shape. Where would I go to put this information ? I'm guessing here, https://legacygt.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/want-buy-70.html or ask google, https://www.google.com/search?q=1998+subaru+legacy+gt+for+sale&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS906US906&oq=1998+subaru+legacy+gt+&aqs=chrome.1.69i59j0j69i57j0l5.16538j1j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 Mine grinds when coasting and sounds like it has rocks in it and it's still driving and shifting fine. yep, that's pretty much normal. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luckybullitt Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 @max capacity. Yeah new turbo oil out hose installed and I mocked up the turbo to dp with gasket etc and put about 15psi to wastegate with compressor nozzle to actuate it and no noise what so ever. And just to double check I put a bit of wheel bearing grease on divorce and put it back together, did test again and no grease on wastegate so it must be updated dp! Thanks for the hints though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted July 25, 2020 Share Posted July 25, 2020 Does this leak look like the power steering leak that is fixed by replacing the washer? In other news, I wacked my starter with a hammer and was able to finally move it out of my driveway. If I'm going to open the hood to replace the starter, I might as well pay attention to that power steering leak i've been ignoring... It looks like you have an aftermarket ps pump from the black color? unless that's just the oil coating, but I think it's paint. I had problems with those pos aftermarket pumps leaking, I think from the large o-ring that seals the two pump halves together. That looks like more than the little o-ring to me, I think you might be leaking from multiple places on the pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecDubC Posted July 25, 2020 Share Posted July 25, 2020 (edited) Yup. See here: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2127419 Solid, I had some stuff come up and haven't started on this yet, my Cusco brace is in now, do you know where in that thread they list our size orings? Was going with the McMaster FEP or the HNBR rings from them. Trying to get a parts list together to attempt this PS pump rebuild since I have a spare one around too. If not might be worth doing a walkthrough on our forums for this. 08 spec B here, so apparently the new pump is the 34430AG051 ('50 superceded - probably the bad o ring material) Thanks Edited July 25, 2020 by SpecDubC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted July 25, 2020 Share Posted July 25, 2020 Solid, I had some stuff come up and haven't started on this yet, my Cusco brace is in now, do you know where in that thread they list our size orings? Was going with the McMaster FEP or the HNBR rings from them. Trying to get a parts list together to attempt this PS pump rebuild since I have a spare one around too. If not might be worth doing a walkthrough on our forums for this. 08 spec B here, so apparently the new pump is the 34430AG051 ('50 superceded - probably the bad o ring material) Thanks Isn't it in the first post? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecDubC Posted July 25, 2020 Share Posted July 25, 2020 Isn't it in the first post?Well considering that's an Impreza pump they list it for and the only ones I see as model variants for our pump are 08-09 model Legacy or outback I'm wondering if it's anything along the lines of oring sizes being different. I'm thinking I'll replace the pulley too if I can. Not sure about bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 Installed several parts today: Jdm rear sway with new end links and Avo brackets 3/4" saggy butt spacers with new mounts Front struts and springs 20mm wheel spacers I also changed the oil and did the alignment after all the suspension work. I was able to find some longer, serrated 10x1.25mm wheel studs to accommodate the 3/4 spacers. I had to drill out the holes on the mounts and the holes of the spacers to fit the larger serrated portion of the longer studs. Everything came out great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luckybullitt Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 Update, all my vacuum hoses replaced with siliconehose.com in blue. Blue Perrin turbo inlet is in and blue Samco coupler and bpv to inlet installed, just waiting on two t-bolt clamps that I forgot to order. Ugh the wait... It really makes engine bay nicer. For t-bolts I went with Ideal Tridon stainless steal and some Mishimoto. Ideal’s are a tad wide but fits good. Rear whiteline 20mm rsb is in with avo support brackets also installed but no room to install lockdowns. Anyone have this issue?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveWaters Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 Rear whiteline 20mm rsb is in with avo support brackets also installed but no room to install lockdowns. Anyone have this issue?? Yup. Having no problem without them. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/-rear-sway-bar-lateral-lock-interferance-question-282885.html?t=282885 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luckybullitt Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 (edited) Yup. Having no problem without them. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/-rear-sway-bar-lateral-lock-interferance-question-282885.html?t=282885 Cool thanks, also prepping VF52 and was comparing with my still good VF46, the vac lines between inlet and wastegate has “the pill” only on inlet side where VF52 has a pill/orifice in both little vac lines on each side of tee. My question may sound stupid but, do I keep VF52 oem as is or do I remove wastegate side orifice as to emulate my VF46 or will this cause issues? Vf52 came off 2011 WRX. My OEM VF46 is 2008. Any input would greatly help. *UPDATE* Found my answer. They added an actuator side pill in later WRX models to smooth out boost release so the wastegate wouldn’t shut hard on throttle release making a huge clicking sound. Edited August 22, 2020 by luckybullitt Update Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 I hit 30k on the engine and changed spark plugs. The old ones looked decent still but I prefer to swap them at 30k rather than the "advertised" 60k. NGK 5245 (ILFR7H) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dre617 Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 Hey All, I asked this in the brake section but wanted to ask here since I am trying to buy the parts to get here by Friday.So I need to buy my front brakes but I am unsure if I have the combination correct. My car has the 04 STI Brembo conversion done, so if I am buying front brakes I need to buy "04 STI brake pads & rotors" not "04 STI Pads & LGT Rotors", right? I read the stickies on BBK and this is the conclusion I got from it but I wanted to verify since I didnt want to buy the wrong ones and be stuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 Yes, you need 04 STI Brembo pads and rotors if you have the Brembos up front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 I hit 30k on the engine and changed spark plugs. The old ones looked decent still but I prefer to swap them at 30k rather than the "advertised" 60k. NGK 5245 (ILFR7H) You must like the labor. 60k is fine. stop abusing your body... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dre617 Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 Yes, you need 04 STI Brembo pads and rotors if you have the Brembos up front. Yea, ended up buying Hawk HPS front Pads & Centric Rotors for the 04 STI before your message. Thanks, I figured if everything was wrong I would return it but was just trying to avoid the extra back and forth. I been needing brakes for a while and kinda been procrastinating buying everything since I been just working from home and we use the wife vehicle when we go out, but I may need to visit work soon so car needs to be back into shape Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 I missed her birthday a few days ago...11 years of ownership. 54,391 miles. "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 Started running out of fuel pump way before I had any business doing so during E85 tuning. AEM320. Went down my diagnostics tree, and came down to the fact that I'm dropping 3.4V between the alternator and fuel pump input. Pump's only running on 10.1A. Voltage drop is spread more or less three ways between the harnesses and FPCM. Time to rewire and try one of the 'better' FPCMs I guess. Extrapolating AEM's pump curve, looks like this 320 lph pump is flowing more like a 220-240 lph unit in my car. Sorta miffed at Subaru. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 Started running out of fuel pump way before I had any business doing so during E85 tuning. AEM320. Went down my diagnostics tree, and came down to the fact that I'm dropping 3.4V between the alternator and fuel pump input. Pump's only running on 10.1A. Voltage drop is spread more or less three ways between the harnesses and FPCM. Time to rewire and try one of the 'better' FPCMs I guess. Extrapolating AEM's pump curve, looks like this 320 lph pump is flowing more like a 220-240 lph unit in my car. Sorta miffed at Subaru. IWire makes a nice pnp kit for our cars. That’s what I used and had no fueling issues with the same pump,e85, and id1k injectors. "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 IWire makes a nice pnp kit for our cars. That’s what I used and had no fueling issues with the same pump,e85, and id1k injectors. Thanks, I'll take a look. When you say no issues - do you mean that you're able to hit fueling targets, or that you also don't see any fuel pressure droop on power (stays 1:1 with manifold pressure)? I have enough injector overhead that AFRs are fine just running at a higher duty cycle than they *should* be but still with margin, but I noticed in my fuel pressure logs that the fuel to manifold pressure ratio pulls down to 0.8:1 on power because the pump can't keep up with demand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amm203 Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 Is that iWire kit considered necessary if you're running an AEM 320lph w/ID1050xs or only when you start getting into E85/really pushing the pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 Depends on how far you're pushing it on the pump gas tune, it's all about flow. I was running 1000s at 19 psi out of a 16G with no fuel pressure issues on pump gas. 30% increase in flow requirement on E85 is when I started running into trouble. Actually starts to drop off over 16 psi there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dre617 Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 I know Heiche used run E85 on my car prior to me buying from him. He might have a forum post on how he made the magic happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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