DaveWaters

My replacement radiator (oe style replacement csf) came with a small section of flanged rubber hose to put inside the existing hose then push it on to the nipple. A reducer of sorts.

Hogzaust.

Here’s my dyno chart for comparison. I have just about the same build as op but use a stock inlet, ID fuel rails and aeromotive fpr. Other difference is 5eat.

The gurgling you’re hearing may not be a symptom of the overheating. It may just be the blend door actuators on their way out. Mine’s been doing that for years. When the engine starts to overheat have you checked to see if both the fans are on? Nothing impeding air flow through the core? Overheating while idling makes me think fans, blocked core, or tstat. You may want to get some coolant in there just so you might smell it if it’s leaking somewhere. And like said in an earlier post always bleed from the expansion tank by the turbo.

IIRC there was someone on here that de-pinned the obd2 connector and tightened each clip and reassembled. I cant seem to find it though. Maybe you'll have better luck. Maybe it was in Covertrussian's thread.

I think there’s a pin that has to be grounded to let the head know to activate the aux input.

Thats the size I run on my 06 LGT wheels for winter and on 09 WRX wheels for summer. Swift spring / Koni and no rub.

Best way I can describe mine is kind of sounds like a truck gearbox hum/whine. Like the ups truck going by.

This sounds just like the issue I’m having right now. Mine seems to be from 40-60 mph give or take. No noticeable change during acceleration or deceleration. Thought might be rear diff so I changed out the gear oil. Came out nice and clean. Magnet had fine metallic mush on it as expected from wear. No change in sound after new gear oil. None of the wheel bearings felt loose doing the push/pull test on the tires. Spinning the wheels by hand showed no noticeable difference either. Since the sound is barely noticeable over my exhaust I would bring it up to speed put in neutral (5eat) shut off engine and coast. I find no noticeable change from left to right doing a slow swerve. Only thing is I feel that the sound is more to the front with the motor off. When it’s running I feel its more to the rear.

Have you tried idle relearn after ecu reset?

No, I personally haven’t. I just recall reading about LED lighting interfering with other car electronics. So did a google and it seems like it could be a possibility.

The fact that the tach sweeps makes me think ecu to cluster issue. If the car has a remote starter you may want to try and track down where the tach connection was made. Could have damaged the wire. Also inspect, unplug and re seat both the connector at the cluster and at the ecu. Make sure to disconnect the battery first though.

Do you have any LED lights on the car (even including dome light)? Or any other aftermarket devices that could cause radio interference?

I used permatex ultra grey. I think the FSM calls for Fujibond.

Yes, AEM 50-1215. But I paid Cobbs price for my last one next day with tax from RSD.

Try an idle re-learn. Maybe they disconnected the battery at the oil change. [ /URL]

This is 05/06 but may be helpful.

Like said above replace the plugs first if they’re beyond their service life. Best way to diagnose a problem like this is to see if it moves with an injector or coil. Move the coil on the misfire cyl to a different cyl and see if the misfire follows. If it does, replace the coil. If it doesn’t, move the injector. If the misfire follows the injector, replace the injector. If it doesn’t follow you could have a different issue like tight valve clearance or worse like a burnt valve or ringland failure. No need to just spend $$ on parts blindly. Also double check the plug at the coil as the get brittle and can fail over time. If you have the means to monitor live data like with an AP or some other scanner it will make diagnosis much easier.

Solved. So after discussing this with a mechanic it really made sense to be a failing fuel pump. So I replaced it. That didn't fix it. Hate the parts cannon thing so back to diagnostics. Next I pulled the plugs and inspected them. They all looked the same and gapped fine (only ~20k old). Finally it gave me an excuse to replace the connector on #3 coil as it's been zip tied for years now. After that I tested the car on wastegate spring only. Same issue. That also allowed me to rule out the EBCS. Tested the bypass valve. Worked correctly, not leaking under boost. Pulled the GS intercooler and inspected all the hoses. No problem found. Pressure tested the inlet and thats when I found what appears to be the issue. The soft silicone hose connected to the MAP sensor popped off during that test. Hmm... No zip tie! has the indent from being ziptied before. Threw on a ziptie and put everything back together. Did a test pull and no more problem. I'm thinking that the MAP hose was leaking at ~13psi but not blowing off. The leak must have been enough to get an improper reading at the MAP causing it to pull fuel creating my lean condition. -Dave

This one has me scratching my head. 06 LGT 5eat Pro tuned (speed density). Haven't been in boost above around 10psi in a week or two. So I figured I'd let her stretch her legs the other day. Well.... she fell flat on her face. I went WOT and when boost hit ~13psi it immediately dropped to ~8psi and held there. The car is tuned for 20psi. I logged a pull and as you can see from the log the AFR goes lean and boost drops. So first thought was vacuum leak pre turbo. After a cursery inspection I found no leaks. But it occurred to me that if I had actually gone lean due to a leak I would have had knock. DAM is at 1.00. So now my focus shifted to lack of fuel. I currently have a full tank so pulling the fp isnt an option right now. Trying to narrow this down in my head first. My fuel system consists of: AEM 340 pump, ID 1050x with top feed ID rails, parallel lines to Aeromotive FPR. Rewired fuel pump control as per Turkeylord/Underdogs post. I've been running like this for about 2 years and ~20k miles. I used a wifi cam to watch my underhood fuel pressure gauge realtime while making a pull and found it rose to ~60psi during the pull and held there till I let off. So it appears I have appropriate pressure. All pulls had Either 0 feedback knock or -1.30 (which I've gotten from time to time in the past). Probably phantom knock of some sort but so low...don't care. No FKLC. DAM at 1.00. So I think the fuel pump is fine and FPR is fine. But can a fuel pump put out pressure but not enough volume if it goes bad? Side note: I do have a UEGO and can see it leaning out to ~17-18 at the gauge so I know the upstream o2 isnt reading wrong. My theory is that an injector is completely dropping out during WOT and allowing the cylinder to just fill with and pass fresh air along to the the o2 sensor which then sees a lean condition causing the ecu to pull boost. If there was any fuel present I'd think It would register knock. Any thoughts or ideas on how to trouble shoot are much appreciated. If there's something I missed, let me know. -Dave lowboostdatalog1.csv

Fuel cut is the type of rev limiter on these cars. If you rev too far the ecu will cut fuel and engine will stutter hard and you’ll know it. If you haven’t hit it you may not be allowing the car to reach it’s shift point before letting off out of fear that you’ll hit redline. Just to confirm, your problem only happens when foot to the floor in sport mode?

Does it hit fuel cut?

You should check the valve lash after installing the heads anyhow because the heads can twist ever so slightly when being installed causing the lash to be off.

Years back just after I bought the car I had a similar issue where making turns and hitting a bump made a serious knock sound up front. Turned out the sway bar bushing was worn /wallowed out.

As long as no one presses the brake pedal you’ll be fine. It will barely drip when cut. I just put a wee wee pad for a dog under the lines to catch any drip.