fahr_side

I'd just like to say that the last comment in this epic thread should go to an epic c*%t like MC. Just because.

I had how-to documents running to thousands of words written to walk e-tune customers through all the step from logging, to flashing, to how drive pulls, where to check for air leaks, you name it. It's hard work getting people through this without an IT department and a help line off-shored to India or the Philippines. This is how Cobb won, or a chunk of it.

I had no problem with what Cobb was charging for the AP. What I resented was that they shut down / poached the top talent from the Opensource community but would not support markets outside the USDM. Almost all my customers as a tuner were in EDM or JDM cars, and a few in ADM. We still had the Opensource standouts that were working on development and definitions, but it wasn't enough. Then they started the pay to play system, fly to the US or get left out. Why would I fly to the US to take classes I could teach, for equipment that doesn't work on the cars my customers own? The Borg won that one. Then you look at the price for systems to edit the factory ECUs on German cars, and what the owners will pay to have them tuned. Sorry guys but the talent will go where the money is.

Rails not needed. I would do a 1.5XTR in 10cm rather than the 440XT, but please note, I and many others have had awful experiences with Blouch when it came to service. I could not even get them to reply to email about parts or cores when I offered to pay for everything, so you can imagine how warranty inquiries are handled. If you don't live close to him, I would choose something else. But, I hear you say, the 440XT is needed to fit the stock intercooler the AVO replicates! And I will tell you, nothing in the stock TMIC footprint will properly cool anything in that power range! You are trying to put 10lb of shit (hot air) in a 2lb bag (intercooler). You need to be thinking minimum GRB TMIC with suitable splitter or better, a FMIC at this point. And please, ditch the UELH. That robs you of so much power and efficiency. ELH or go home. Glad to see this thread is still alive and kicking after all this time!

Meh. 7163 or don’t bother. And don’t forget the exhaust cams.

Yes and yes!

In case anyone is wondering the car is still going strong and people are still asking how we pulled this off.

It's appalling that the resale value on an unused $700 part is effectively zero.

Holy crap. I need to raise my prices!

I think we covered the basics with intercooling in the first post. An aftermarket TMIC basically gives you more heat capacity so it doesn't heat soak as fast. Means you can go on a longer fang before IAT starts spiking and performance drops off. An FMIC is better heat rejection which means you get better intercooling from the get-go, and heat soaking takes way longer than with any TMIC. This means more performance even at the start of a fang and possibly even no noticeable heat-soaking during the sort of time you can reasonably drive that hard on public roads.

You really want to add a 3-port BCS if upgrading the turbo. If you're sticking in the 300whp range the stock injectors are okay, though I'd upgrade the pump to be sure fuel pressure is not falling down at high rpm / injector duty cycle. If you intend to max out an 18G or 20G turbo then you either need both injectors and pump, or meth injection. FMIC is a huge improvement on these cars, a bigger TMIC not so much but still useful.

Or you might find a 1.1:1 transfer gear easier to source than a 3.9:1 ring gear and pinion.

You have a 1:1 center diff not 1.1:1? 3.545 rear diffs are as common as dirt.

Time for the STi 6MT upgrade...

You can have a pump gas and ethanol tunes on Opensource also. You just need your laptop handy. Cobb doesn't have a monopoly on this. The one thing they can offer over OS is a flex fuel setup.

Opium certainly does lower motility. It's used a lot in Ayurvedic medicine.

Note there are often a few different CALIDs for a single model over a 2 or 3 year period. Subaru do a few logic or tune updates over the life of the model. The final ROM runs on the earlier cars just fine and when they were still in warranty it would have been SOP for the dealer to update without even telling the owner. So, even though there may have been 5 or 6 CALIDs specified for a car it's only necessary to define the last one. Yes I'm using ECUflash but I also have some definitions not in the public domain. If you can grab the CALID then that's the easiest way to be sure. Otherwise let me know the model year. I have definitions for MY'07 and solid basemaps for different fuels.

Had something similar happen once after I dropped the car off to be detailed. They decided they'd take it for a test drive and blew by me while I was sitting in my wife's car. I had the same first reaction, wow another one like mine... We went back so I could innocently ask to get something I'd left in the car and watch them do some logical gymnastics trying to explain where my car had gone.

Opensource tools do indeed support these cars and I've tuned several, from Egypt to Australia. Compression is quite high and the stock tune expects octane higher than you get in the US, so you will knock heavily on 93 or 94MON fuel. I have one customer running his on E85 and another blending his own fuel from 91MON plus 10% methanol. Another good solution is water meth injection.

A VF-52 is not going to do 400whp on anything but the most optimistic dyno, neither is an 18G. Note that a lot of the billet compressor turbos only really come alive past 18psi. So you can run them at low boost but they feel a bit wooden. High performance aftermarket turbos just need to be run at higher boost to do their thing. Fact of life. The smallest turbo I can think of that had 400whp potential is the old FP 68HTA, which is discontinued. After that, 1.5XTR. If you can deal with something not direct fit, EFR6758. There's always a market for a good used VF-52.

Yes it fits.

Since the GH8 WRX strut is 20-30mm shorter than BR9 item, and the spring mount similar lower, I think the car would be lower by around an inch. If you're looking to slam the car it's a better solution than fitting very short springs I guess.

Yes, it's not the shift that is slow, it seems to be the TCU making up it's mind if it wants to or not. Yes, to a point. Of course the closer the CT to TCU is to the actual torque output the more it will feel like it would have stock, if the car came with those mods from the factory. That's not to say you can't further improve shift feel or consistency with more tweaking however. You definitely can go too high with the CT values and get into some unpleasant behavior. Pretty much. Raising RT does raise the rpm at which the trans will shift and it can be quite finicky, with a change of even 10 units making shifts 100s of rpm higher or lower. I think the shift feel may change simply because the higher the rpm the trans shifts at the higher line pressure seems to be. I don't think the RT value changes line pressure in and of itself. Really looking forward to seeing the logic laid out.

Of course there's a long thread over on RR.com about this. Earlier cars use rpm and IPW for axes. Later ones use rpm vs. load in g/rev. The values in stock ROMs are suspiciously close to what torque output might be in Nm. What we do know about the output data is that it's one of the few things the ECU passes to the TCU. It also seems the VDC system evaluates it for adapting system response. Maximum values vary by year. I've come across ROMs that would accept no more than a raw value of IIRC 440, while others will take a full 512.

Note shipping either way takes minimum 6 weeks. Suggest sending via the White House for express service with no customs clearance required