Max Capacity Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 195,000km Still on Cobb stage 2 catless. Had a weird burning smell on a highway trip this weekend noticed the smell was coming from the passenger side when I stopped to check. I remember the inner cv boot was starting to leak and maybe it finally let go and got on the down pipe wrap. That smell is really different. then most normal fluids in cars. When I smelled it the first time, I assumed that's what it was. I had the boot replaced on the OEM axle. Wish I would have done that to the left axle when it leaked years ago. I have replaced that axle about 4 times now, the right front is still original. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 Glad to hear my block is "nicely seasoned"... I like that. Like grandma's old cast iron pan. Exactly! Been through ten thousand heat cycles, and just barely broken in. Old machinists and mechanics would cure or season their blocks outside for a certain period. In the 80's the BMW teams would only use 100k+ blocks to make their 1,500HP 4-bangers. They also peed on them to further relieve stresses. Whether that was for the motors or the engineers is another question IMO a tried and true casting with no damage is a better starting point for a build than a brand-spanking new one. Would bet it's the CV joint. Could also be the turbo drain line. All you need is a quick whiff. Veteran turbo Subaru owners can discern the smell of axle grease versus motor oil on a downpipe... LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zac88 Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 At first I thought it was an exhaust leak. I am 95% sure it's not burning oil from the turbo. I'll find out today hopefully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 That smell is really different. then most normal fluids in cars. When I smelled it the first time, I assumed that's what it was. I had the boot replaced on the OEM axle. Wish I would have done that to the left axle when it leaked years ago. I have replaced that axle about 4 times now, the right front is still original. Did the same thing. Blew out the inner boot on the passenger side and replaced. Hunting for an issue replaced the entire drivers side CV. Should have just rebuilt and kept rolling. No issues to report and probably need to order another inner boot kit for the passenger side soon. Just to have it at the ready. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougall42 Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 Just got mine back from dealer for airbag and rear brake line recall. i'm at 413,000kms. Cobb Stg 1 with BNR 16g, invidia up pipe and IPT oil feed. Had to replace passenger side valve cover gasket recently, otherwise oil-tight. It only uses oil between changes if i cane it, just use the torque for passing and not revving too high keeps it alive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 23, 2016 Author Share Posted August 23, 2016 I still have the front axles from my 6MT conversion sitting in their storage container. Since the car isn't running, I'm thinking of pulling the R180 rear axles out, taking all four down to parade rest, sandblasting and powdercoating everything external, putting fresh grease and boots on all four and then installing them. Hopefully, won't have to replace them. Original front (5MT) axles have 155K on them and they are tight. Front axles that came with the 2008 6MT trans have ~70K on them and they are also tight. May as well do all six and put the two 155K ones in storage for a rainy day. No aftermarket replacement issues then. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 I bought a factory replacement for the drivers side. They insisted on the core. Should have never done that. Especially since it didn't fix what the issue was. Can't remember what I was chasing at the time. Interesting that at the time they had no parts for the drivers side available Re manufactured or new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zac88 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Little update. Had it on the hoist today but couldn't find anything wrong really. Found some leaves or something between the downpipe and turbo so maybe it was that. It's leaking oil from both valve covers and oil cooler but that's nothing new. Degreased and washed the engine bay and hopefully that's the end of the stink. I've never changed the cabin filter though so I guess maybe that's next. Heard it's a pain in the ass on 05 models Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Did the cabin filter today, first time ever, no problem at all. Watch the YT video and it's simple. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crawdaddy79 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 135k miles. Right rear wheel bearing toast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imstillatwork Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 2007 GT 5MT 135K Miles Original Clutch 2nd set of pads & rotors Timing Belt, water pump, pulleys and idlers at 100K (easy job) Oil control valves at 125K (easy job) Everything else just according to maint schedule Needs front wheel bearings now, and brakes again, and overdue for sparkplugs. Lifters are getting noisy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 (edited) I'll be rolling over 160k miles tomorrow. OE turbo and motor still going strong. Motor burns about a quart of oil every 3k miles and recent Blackstone report looks great. Also with the downpipe off ~5k miles ago my turbo had zero shaft play and no wastegate walk. Turbine wheel looked/felt great. On the needs list: Fresh coolant & gear oil f/r, turbo inlet replacement, intake mani gaskets, fresh fuel pump and cleaned OE injectors, my steering rack is leaking a bit so I'd like to get that fixed up before winter (STi rack perhaps), and new rear control arms since my OE arms aren't aligning as well as they should. Edited September 28, 2016 by BoozeRS05 EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdeitz1979 Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 Trip has miles on new build. Stock everything else. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin case Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 I recently spoke with the gentleman I sold my 05 lgt to. Its now around 130k miles,~40k of which were at stage 2. It was tracked a few times by myself and was otherwise a daily driver. Original engine/turbo still going strong. It was just sold off to someone in Michigan so its future will be a mystery to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdmayne Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 181K. Minor stumble when cold but pulls hard. Almost all stock. John Hancock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 That's likely a lean stumble. Could be leaky intake manifold gaskets, or a torn turbo inlet hose. Look for blow-by (oily residue) at the base of intake manifold, and especially around the clamp on the turbo end of the inlet hose. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdmayne Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 It's the IM. I just haven't had a chance to get her in a shop and fix it. Apartment living makes that tough. And my old shop is now a woodshop John Hancock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flat4Fab Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 I rolled over my 2005 to 222k last week. It's been well maintained and serviced regularly, but I am having issues with the automatic transmission now. I haven't had it diagnosed yet and I don't really know about transmissions, but it will drive normal if I keep it below 3000 rpm and then it will rev like I put it in neutral if I go above that. Sometimes it makes a grinding noise and kicks back in, but I have stopped driving it for now. I don't know what the issue could be. Is my transmission shot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsmythe Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 I rolled over my 2005 to 222k last week. It's been well maintained and serviced regularly, but I am having issues with the automatic transmission now. I haven't had it diagnosed yet and I don't really know about transmissions, but it will drive normal if I keep it below 3000 rpm and then it will rev like I put it in neutral if I go above that. Sometimes it makes a grinding noise and kicks back in, but I have stopped driving it for now. I don't know what the issue could be. Is my transmission shot? How often was the tranny fluid changed? Is it fresh now? I would flush it out - there are a couple of procedures to do this to make sure all the fluid is replaced. They are discussed on this forum. The torque converter will not drain out on it's own and you will only get 1/3 of the fluid out if you just drain it. I got an '05 LGT a couple of months ago. The auto tranny was acting up, rough shifting and such. I checked the fluid and it was brownish red. After flushing it works great now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 How often was the tranny fluid changed? Is it fresh now? I would flush it out - there are a couple of procedures to do this to make sure all the fluid is replaced. They are discussed on this forum. The torque converter will not drain out on it's own and you will only get 1/3 of the fluid out if you just drain it. I got an '05 LGT a couple of months ago. The auto tranny was acting up, rough shifting and such. I checked the fluid and it was brownish red. After flushing it works great now. Do it again... Do it again... It will thank you. I was looking for something last week and found almost a full case of Subaru ATF on one of my shelves. Guess I didn't need to buy more (8 quarts) when installing the motor. Also have several quarts of Honda ATF that needs to find a home, I don't have a Honda in the stable any more, not since the ex smashed her accord into a curb. Need to have the boy get over here and use it up in his civic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsmythe Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 Do it again... Do it again... It will thank you. I was looking for something last week and found almost a full case of Subaru ATF on one of my shelves. Guess I didn't need to buy more (8 quarts) when installing the motor. Also have several quarts of Honda ATF that needs to find a home, I don't have a Honda in the stable any more, not since the ex smashed her accord into a curb. Need to have the boy get over here and use it up in his civic. Actually, do it 3X would do the trick. I had a full case of synth ATF I had stored (this is Subie #4 in our family). I did the drain and fill 3 times over a few weeks, replaced the filter and it's good to go! The alternative is to get the tranny to pump the ATF out through a cooling line return. That just scares me but others swear by it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 ^Truth, I"m inclined to do another pan drain this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 So, who has the most miles on a LGT with a 100% stock motor and the factory tune? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 (edited) 277,000 miles last December, about half on stock tune. Oh yeah still runs good. Edited October 10, 2016 by rmoore5 still running Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 277,000 miles last December, about half on stock tune. My '08 did about the same on the stock tune, about 140k. 190k now. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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