Who has the most miles on their LGT, and how are they holding up? - Vol-2

[jersdunz]

Mine has 175k, of course I only put 1/2mile

On it. And the engine was trashed

 

[08 LGT]

Mine has 175k, of course I only put 1/2mile

On it. And the engine was trashed

 

 

You only made it 1/2 a mile before the engine blew? Or you put half of the total miles on it before it blew at 175k?

[jersdunz]

You only made it 1/2 a mile before the engine blew? Or you put half of the total miles on it before it blew at 175k?

 

I bought it with a bad turbo, but after I had all the paperwork in hand I learned that I bought it after the 3rd turbo, failed to fix its turbo failure problems.. Banjo Bolts

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/first-build-05-legacy-gt-257550.html

 

However the body is in good shape and the interior is nice.. When I'm done with it ( assuming "my" engine works ) it'll be getting a lot more miles.

[BoozeRS05]

Passed 165k miles tonight..

 

OE motor, turbo and trans. Stg1 at 70k miles and stg2 at 123k miles, data logging almost everyday with BtSsm. Turbo inlet and TGV gaskets in need of replacement. Uses a quart over 3k miles, but I have some slight leaks that need addressed too, valve covers and oil cooler.

 

Minor trans noise, same as when I bought it with 107k miles, believed to be the center diff transfer bearings. Not getting worse in volume or ever causing any drivability issues. Axle seal isn't 100% from axle replacement some time ago, noticable smell in cabin occasionally.

 

Exterior and undercarriage in great shape for age and miles, but I'm religious in cleaning.

Edited March 10, 2017 by BoozeRS05

[xt2005bonbon]

Minor trans noise, same as when I bought it with 107k miles, believed to be the center diff transfer bearings. Not getting worse in volume or ever causing any drivability issues.

 

How would you describe that noise?

[Sparkey]

I guess I'll join the club. #Notmymiles, but I plan to match what it has if the engine will hold. Third owner that im aware of.

 

MY05 LGT 5MT

Currently 153,XXXmi, Purchased about 1500mi ago.

Stage 0.0. Yes, bone stock. Banjo Screens still in, for now. Im undecided if I want to go up in stages or not.

Timing belt replaced at 66,XXXmi, and it just went in the shop today for another.

Clutch replaced at 137,XXXmi.

 

A week ago it went in for Airbag Recall and Brake Corrosion Spray recall as well as a brake flush and steel lines. Along with the timing belt it will be getting a steel clutch line and the valve cover gasket replaced.

 

First owner had an OCI of 5-6k on M1 synthetic, second said 3500 on M1, I've done one change with T6. And even though the first owner was a mechanic, and owns his own shop - that was the extent of the maintenance records. So needless to say - its time to replace some things - new plugs, bushings, suspension, fluids flush - all that good stuff. So far the brake parts are ordered, Centric everything - Rotors, pads, hardware, just not calipers. Waiting until next year to get a JDM set. Going to get all that installed just in time to add some miles on my trip out to Vegas!

[magnusonsubie]

If you don't have record of the timing belt being done do it. These cars are old enough that they need to be done no matter what mileage but being at 153k it was due at 105k.

[BoozeRS05]

How would you describe that noise?

 

It's a softer whirring noise, but also a little like a rolling skateboard. It's a roller bearing becoming pitted.

 

It's only noticeable during acceleration, worse in higher gears (highway partial throttle is the most noticeable), absent off throttle, only really noticeable in 4th & 5th. 50/50 if a passenger notices and comments.

 

I've been reluctant to install my GroupN 5mt mount, bc installing my short shifter invited the sound into the cabin pretty dramatically. With a stock shifter it wasn't nearly as noticeable. I've had a backup 5mt in my dad's garage for 2 years now, but the sound isn't getting worse and again, no driveability issues. The fix isn't hard either though, it's $150 to replace all 4 of the troubled bearings (usually only one or two are damaged) and a relatively simple job, maybe 4 hours plus press time, and takes another 24 hrs for sealant curing.

 

A pic might help you understand the sound:

http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab135/myphotohosting/IMAG0184.jpg

Edited March 10, 2017 by BoozeRS05

[Sparkey]

If you don't have record of the timing belt being done do it. These cars are old enough that they need to be done no matter what mileage but being at 153k it was due at 105k.

 

Timing belt replaced at 66,XXXmi, and it just went in the shop today for another

 

 

Yea, Im starting to know almost everyone at Heuberger, as they are me. I normally do all of my own work, but dont have time and want it done before I head to Vegas.

[xt2005bonbon]

It's a softer whirring noise, but also a little like a rolling skateboard. It's a roller bearing becoming pitted.

 

It's only noticeable during acceleration, worse in higher gears (highway partial throttle is the most noticeable), absent off throttle, only really noticeable in 4th & 5th. 50/50 if a passenger notices and comments.

 

I've been reluctant to install my GroupN 5mt mount, bc installing my short shifter invited the sound into the cabin pretty dramatically. With a stock shifter it wasn't nearly as noticeable. I've had a backup 5mt in my dad's garage for 2 years now, but the sound isn't getting worse and again, no driveability issues. The fix isn't hard either though, it's $150 to replace all 4 of the troubled bearings (usually only one or two are damaged) and a relatively simple job, maybe 4 hours plus press time, and takes another 24 hrs for sealant curing.

 

A pic might help you understand the sound:

http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab135/myphotohosting/IMAG0184.jpg

 

 

Interesting. As for me, I began noticing some kind of whine particularly when changing gear or decelerating within a specific and narror rpm range (like 2700-3000 rpm). Sounds like it comes from the trans too.

[magnusonsubie]

 

Yea, Im starting to know almost everyone at Heuberger, as they are me. I normally do all of my own work, but dont have time and want it done before I head to Vegas.

 

Whoops totally glossed over that :lol:

[outahere]

Original owner, currently 235,000 on Royal Purple, just completed new front brakes again with calipers, passenger side wore out, Centric rotors and HPS pads, all new fluid. Engine flush and new turbo, it was starting to act funky, timing belt, water pump tensioners and pulleys, etc, plugs at 225,000...

 

Interesting how some 05 LGTs with stock tune can only make it to 95,000 miles without burning an exhaust valve, and yours has made it to 235,000 miles, and still going.

[MAP]

I honestly don't think the burnt exhaust valves have anything to do with the stock tune. The tune changes the fuel injector injection and spark ignition timing. The exhaust valve is closed during both events. I just had this issue late last year. A cylinder 2 misfire. I traced it to a burnt valve. There was no clearance between lifter/bucket and cam on one of the valves. The clearnace on other exhaust valve on #2 and valves on #4 were no longer within spec or at the minimum but still had some clearance.

I really think that checking and adjusting the valve clearance at the time of timing belt replacement would eliminate the burnt valve issues. I think some valve clearances were just set too tight from the factory. Some people probably get lucky with valve clearances that were on looser end.

 

I know Honda has this requirement on V6 engines. I'm surprised Subaru doesn't suggest the same thing. Of course at 100k miles it's no longer their problem right. They get to charge you more for the repair when the time comes by not recommending it.

[xt2005bonbon]

I honestly don't think the burnt exhaust valves have anything to do with the stock tune. The tune changes the fuel injector injection and spark ignition timing. The exhaust valve is closed during both events. I just had this issue late last year. A cylinder 2 misfire. I traced it to a burnt valve. There was no clearance between lifter/bucket and cam on one of the valves. The clearnace on other exhaust valve on #2 and valves on #4 were no longer within spec or at the minimum but still had some clearance.

I really think that checking and adjusting the valve clearance at the time of timing belt replacement would eliminate the burnt valve issues. I think some valve clearances were just set too tight from the factory. Some people probably get lucky with valve clearances that were on looser end.

 

+1000! Exact same thing for me on both of my cars and same cylinder too! But I caught early enough. So no burnt valve for me .

[Skiman]

I'm back, looks like I need a new Cat Back exhaust. Really rusting from all the road salt and crap they put on the roads here in NJ. I like the SPT set up but don't want to spend $1000 on it. I don't want a loud system and prefer not to go to the stock set up.

Any suggestions for that smooth subie rumble without the loud can sound?

[Skiman]

I'm back, looks like I need a new Cat Back exhaust. Really rusting from all the road salt and crap they put on the roads here in NJ. I like the SPT set up but don't want to spend $1000 on it. I don't want a loud system and prefer not to go to the stock set up.

Any suggestions for that smooth subie rumble without the loud can sound?

[freaksavior]

Most catback systems that are name brand and specific to our car are around that price range. When Nameless was making one it was 1k, their current 2010-2014 is 1k Avo is 1.2k. SPT is 1k.

 

So ebay, have a shop make one, or buy prefab.

[BoozeRS05]

Stay on top of the classifieds here, search local forums and classifieds too. Catbacks still pop up pretty frequently.

 

If you get something and it's too loud you can always add a resonator. Plenty of room for one.

[Sparkey]

+1000! Exact same thing for me on both of my cars and same cylinder too! But I caught early enough. So no burnt valve for me .

 

Seriously? This is something that my mechanic was talking about, but never said anything about adjusting valves. I also just had my valve cover gaskets replaced which would have been a GREAT time to do this and know that im in spec. I was told it was always the same cylinder and after I start seeing a misfire then its getting ready to go out and just save for a new block.

[xt2005bonbon]

Yeah serious. I am using an app called btssm where I am monitoring misfire events and a bunch of other parameters. A couple of years ago, my 05 started to get a few misfires when warm at idle. First I thought like everybody else that I had a cracked ringland. Nope, I checked the clearance and one exhaust valve on #2 had zero clearance. The 06 was almost the same story. It's now been 20k since the fix on the 05 and zero misfire whatsoever. For the 06, it's been 5k and no issue either. I fixed both myself and it ended up costing between 300-400 for parts per car.

[Scooby2.5]

Interesting how some 05 LGTs with stock tune can only make it to 95,000 miles without burning an exhaust valve, and yours has made it to 235,000 miles, and still going.

 

I believe it is partially a fueling issue. I replaced 2 motors with burned exhaust valves. Stock engine at 158K, built motor at 98K.

 

I installed a FORE INNOVATIONS in-line fuel filter in my latest motor. It only has 30K on it right now.

 

I believe that the cylinders are getting leaned out by poor fueling as the injectors get dirty.

 

Subaru does not have a fuel filter and the sock in the tank is not enough. Subaru used to have an inline filter.......

 

As well as the valve adjustment.....

 

I will try to find the article of a Subaru shop that discussed this and why I started investigating fueling.

 

Also I had run a set of ID1000 injectors in my first build and at one point around 60-70K they were so dirty they were out of spec.

I was getting a misfire which led me to pull them.

 

I had them cleaned and put back to spec and then about 15k later the misfire got worse and it was a valve. I believe the damage had already started as I could never get the misfire to fully go away no matter what I did and then it finally failed.

 

If I were putting in a new motor or even had a fairly new Subaru turbo car, I would plumb in a really good inline filter.

Edited March 13, 2017 by Scooby2.5

[Scooby2.5]

https://allwheeldriveauto.com/seattle-area-subaru-burnt-exhaust-valve/

[Sparkey]

I believe it is partially a fueling issue. I replaced 2 motors with burned exhaust valves. Stock engine at 158K, built motor at 98K.

 

I installed a FORE INNOVATIONS in-line fuel filter in my latest motor. It only has 30K on it right now.

 

I believe that the cylinders are getting leaned out by poor fueling as the injectors get dirty.

 

Subaru does not have a fuel filter and the sock in the tank is not enough. Subaru used to have an inline filter.......

 

As well as the valve adjustment.....

 

I will try to find the article of a Subaru shop that discussed this and why I started investigating fueling.

 

Also I had run a set of ID1000 injectors in my first build and at one point around 60-70K they were so dirty they were out of spec.

I was getting a misfire which led me to pull them.

 

I had them cleaned and put back to spec and then about 15k later the misfire got worse and it was a valve. I believe the damage had already started as I could never get the misfire to fully go away no matter what I did and then it finally failed.

 

If I were putting in a new motor or even had a fairly new Subaru turbo car, I would plumb in a really good inline filter.

 

I found that really odd that there was not an inline fuel filter on subies.

 

Is replacing the valve a viable repair if youre unsure of the previous maintenance? On top of then keeping up on maintenance of course. Or could that open a can of worms?

[outahere]

...I really think that checking and adjusting the valve clearance at the time of timing belt replacement would eliminate the burnt valve issues....

 

I agree. Too bad adjusting the valves is such a time consuming process requiring camshaft removal.

[xt2005bonbon]

Yep. You're right.