jsmythe

I left the Weathertechs in when I traded. Barely used DM me. Image not coming up - here's the link to view https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZQ9vmf2P13YLPQrohDjbUlOOt0De9m8k/view?usp=sharing

This is one of the first things I fixed on my car. I did all of the suggestions and nothing worked. Brought it to the dealership who found the wiring fault up the side pillar. Charged me $150 for labor. You have to go through the process of elimination unfortunately. I never would have found that wiring fault on my own.

First $2000 takes it! I've had her for 5+ years now and it's time for someone to take over the project as my health is preventing me from working on it as much as I'd like. I paid $5k for it and put ~ 5k miles on. I used it as a station/daily car until this pandemic and it never left me stranded. Photos later when I figure how to post it. Among other things I've worked on and had done: -Timing Belt when I bought it (w 150k on ODO) -Nvidia catless Up Pipe -Tires were put on when I bought it (about 5k) -New front rotors / pads -JVC Bluetooth Headunit using cubby hole adapter kit -Right front CV (torn boot) -Steering knuckle Service items -Plugs -Fluids -1or 2 oil changes each year (Fumoto drain valve installed) -Autotrans fluid (3Xdrain and fill) -Diff front/rear fluids (Synthetic) -Swaybar links Interior -No rips on leather upholstery -SOA All Season mats NJ sticker good until 2022 -will include BT OBDII plugin tool -ebay turbo gauge that was never installed included as well Disclosure - needs rocker arm / valve cover gaskets (no oil on floor though)

I traded my 2015 Legacy a couple of years ago. I still have the stock RSB with bushing if anybody wants it. Message me... Joe

I am doing this project as we speak. You need a reverse harness, assuming you have the auto HVAC unit with single pieces audio/hvac. This is because the HVAC needs to draw power from the same harness. You will couple the old plug with an adapter harness to your new radio and also supply power to the old system via the reverse harness. There's a member here SVXdc has everything you will need.

Actually, do it 3X would do the trick. I had a full case of synth ATF I had stored (this is Subie #4 in our family). I did the drain and fill 3 times over a few weeks, replaced the filter and it's good to go! The alternative is to get the tranny to pump the ATF out through a cooling line return. That just scares me but others swear by it.

How often was the tranny fluid changed? Is it fresh now? I would flush it out - there are a couple of procedures to do this to make sure all the fluid is replaced. They are discussed on this forum. The torque converter will not drain out on it's own and you will only get 1/3 of the fluid out if you just drain it. I got an '05 LGT a couple of months ago. The auto tranny was acting up, rough shifting and such. I checked the fluid and it was brownish red. After flushing it works great now.

I assumed oil bathed filters on WRX's and our cars were a common sight (my downfall). Sure enough when I replaced the o-ring on the oil cooler, the leaking stopped - but that wasn't the only leak as it turns out.

AZP diag so it must be true. It's not severe (yet). Seems to be slowing with 10w-30 dino. they just did my up pipe and had a good look at what's going on.

I do understand that it's a long shot and nothing will swell a head gasket. I am searching for a suitable non-synthetic "hi-mileage" oil but haven't found one. I'll report on my results. I have a Fumoto valve on there, oil changes are a snap.

The oil I am going to use is approved for severe usage on turbodiesels. I would not call this an experiment. The leak is mild - a drop or two overnight. I'm not gonna spend 25% of what the car cost on an engine takedown to do a head gasket replacement on a car this old and just for that work. Besides, if it stops what do I lose? I'll report back on results...

I switched the oil in my new-to-me 05 lgt with 149k miles, coming up on 150k to Rotella T6 as everyone says. There's a slow leak that may or may not have been there since i've worked on a few things like the oil cooler (bad but i got it tightened up and dry). It's at the corner of the head (meaning head gasket leak) and i know this is "rare but not impossible" on our cars. as a last resort, I want to switch it back to dino. i had a benz which leaked with synthetic but stopped when i reverted to dino. i'm hoping it could work. I'll just stick to a strict 3k change depending on what I observe. What's a good dino that you guys can recommend - Rotella non-synth? That's what I used to use on the benz. I think the dino Rotella is 15w-40 - maybe too heavy.

upper console off, dashboard on, center console on my mechanic says he has software that can pull the airbag fault and he says it's the passenger side that is coding and is part of recall. i pulled the board anyway and found that my board only has one LED, the other 3 slots are empty. it looks pretty stock. also there are only two wires to the board - red and blue. the foam around the connectors all looked intact. i was wondering if someone already had a go at it. i reflowed everything and nothing happened. i am going to try it again.... update - after two tries, still no good. i paid attention to the 511 resistor and the diode this time, to no avail...

If it's really that easy then that would be great. I'm actually pretty handy with a soldering iron and comfortable doing this sort of thing. I mean if it's a $50 cost then why not? Been through countless blown weekends on many a car "quick fix" project.

Hello all, just taking possession of an 05 that has the airbag light on. Is there anyone selling reflowed circuit boards? It would be a nice service to have, send in your old board and get a new fixed one for a fee. I searched and found links on how to clear and also this thread. If the majority of problems is the board then I would think there ought to be a market for them instead of the $300 dealer charge...