Who has the most miles on their LGT, and how are they holding up? - Vol-2

[Max Capacity]

hadvw, no other issues I had the harness replaced a few years back where it goes through that grommet, I did have 4 or5 broken wires in it.

 

I also used your walk through for the antenna.

 

I'll download the service manual pages for trouble shooting the wiper.

[idendor]

228,000 the other day, The rear wiper is acting funny. When I turn it on it moves about a 1/4 of the way and stops. I can move it the rest of the way and back to stop by hand and then run back and turn it off.

 

I'll get around to doing something with it when it cools down outside...about late September.

 

Oh, other then that it runs great, but most of you know the whole story.

 

Sept 2015 my 2005 Lgt Wagon had same wiper studder, [and could move it back to resting stop manually]. It was the motor, 86510AG15B, ~$149 parts.

 

{many years prior I had wires in the hatch harness fray. Took out lisc. lamp and one turn signal.}

[Max Capacity]

Sept 2015 my 2005 Lgt Wagon had same wiper studder, [and could move it back to resting stop manually]. It was the motor, 86510AG15B, ~$149 parts.

 

{many years prior I had wires in the hatch harness fray. Took out lisc. lamp and one turn signal.}

 

Thanks, I'll have to say that's what I'm thinking the problem is.

 

Found a used one for $50 in the local junkyard, they'll test it and give me a call when I can pick it up.

Edited July 25, 2016 by Max Capacity

[Max Capacity]

 

Yippy it works. The junkyard rear wipe works like it should. took about 15 minutes to R&R it.

 

Need to give a big thanks to idendor

Edited July 26, 2016 by Max Capacity

[idendor]

Your welcome Gearhead, We got to keep the best designed Subaru wagon operational and visible to public.

[Max Capacity]

Oh well, it was to good to be true. It works when its turned to on all the time, but on intermittent it will stop at different places but will keep running like that until you turn it off.

 

My old one would just move about 30% and stop on intermittent. I kept the slip, I think he said 30 day warranty.

[Scooby2.5]

Max Replace the wiring Harness in the hatch. Its really easy. It plugs into the the wagon cargo area light switch.

I had to replace mine recently.

 

I had fixed mine where it goes through the grommet but eventually it broke again. So I just ordered the whole harness.

 

Piece of cake.....actually easier than fixing the old one.

 

There is a write up on the forums somewhere with a really good step by step with pics.

 

OOOPS i guess it says above you already replaced it.....my bad, well wonder whats up?

Edited August 9, 2016 by Scooby2.5

[Scooby2.5]

BTW turned 275K today......

[Lafta]

Hey guys. Just checking in after a bit of a hiatus from this site. I hope everyone is well.

 

My car is still running like a charm, although I haven't been driving more than twice a week for the past 6 months.

Sitting now at 62k miles.

 

Yes, I still feel like I'm walking on egg shells whenever I drive it.

Read....no revs over 5k....*ever* ! Yeah....I know.

 

I really should sell it given my very limited mechanical abilities.

I would be soooo choked were the turbo to go (or anything else major),

thereby forcing me to source out all the info. and parts needed. I wouldn't have the patience nor knowledge for that.

 

Ah well. Not a 3rd world problem, as they say.

 

Cheers!

 

edit: The best part? She doesn't burn a spec of oil. Not a none!

Edited August 10, 2016 by Lafta

[Max Capacity]

As long as you drive the car long enough the get the oil hot enough to get the moisture out of when you do drive it. You'll be fine for many years.

[BoozeRS05]

There are plenty of us with over 150k miles on OE motors and turbos. The forum is filled with stories, but we represent such a small percentage of the LGT driving populous. Properly tuned, well oiled and well maintained there is much less to worry about than the forums would have you believe.

 

Drive and enjoy it!

[snm95ls]

There are plenty of us with over 150k miles on OE motors and turbos. The forum is filled with stories, but we represent such a small percentage of the LGT driving populous. Properly tuned, well oiled and well maintained there is much less to worry about than the forums would have you believe.

 

Drive and enjoy it!

 

Troof.

[Max Capacity]

Max Replace the wiring Harness in the hatch. Its really easy. It plugs into the the wagon cargo area light switch.

I had to replace mine recently.

 

I had fixed mine where it goes through the grommet but eventually it broke again. So I just ordered the whole harness.

 

Piece of cake.....actually easier than fixing the old one.

 

There is a write up on the forums somewhere with a really good step by step with pics.

 

OOOPS i guess it says above you already replaced it.....my bad, well wonder whats up?

 

 

I'm guessing you may be right, I have not done anything and now the rear wiper works like its suppose to. I'll have to get my sh_t together and look up the harness and think about replacing it...but its to hot now I'll wait until next month or so.

[Philly101]

Ibhave 169k miles on mine the only thing that i have done was the rear rotors and other basic maintenance

[Mike07LGT]

I just hit 130k and the intercooler started leaking, so I replaced it with a grimmspeed. First engine mod ive done in a long time!

[o5ubaru_5mt_GT]

I currently sit at 185k miles. Long time lurker here. Love how helpful the subaru community is, I've never needed to post my own questions as I can always find the answer with searching

 

I bought my 05 SWP LGT 5mt back in 2011 with 110K miles, and stock condition at the time. Since then, I've done some minor mods/replacements, including:

-BNR 16G turbo, Catless uppipe, E-tune, filtered turbo oil feed line, grimmspeed electric boost controller, grimmspeed A/O separator, new spark plugs, new injectors (fixed rough idle), new struts, new radiator, new A/C condenser, bullet proof TMIC mod, new LCA bushings, new front calipers. Also regular oil changes every 3500 miles with Rotella T6 and always 93 premium gas.

 

It's really been a fun and reliable car, and I like that I rarely see another one on the road. But when I do, there's that immediate recognition.

 

BUT, this car has some issues that really need to be addressed soon. Firstly, it leaks oil seemingly everywhere. The underside is very oily, and I can identify at least two leak sources. I need to add almost 4 qt of oil every OCI. Good for the engine I suppose, bad for my wallet and the environment. I'm not certain how much of that is leaked out vs burned, but I would guess it's mostly from leaks. I got a compression and leak down performed almost 10k miles ago, and it was very acceptable: 130-135 psi, and highest leak down was 5%.

 

To fix all the oil leaks, I would need to pull the engine and if I'm doing that, should I just go ahead and replace the short block?

 

Second noticeable issue is the sloppy drivetrain. There is a hard vibration at highway speeds and upon accelerating that shakes the shifter around. I'm guessing bad U-joints, and probably worn out engine and transmission mounts.

 

I'd really appreciate some outside perspective here. Would I be crazy to drop $3-5k to rejuvenate the motor, drivetrain, and chassis?

 

Thanks,

Kevin

[kzr750r1]

May be a little low on your estimate unless your going to do most of the work yourself.

 

At that mileage your looking at valves that need replacing at minimum. In my case had cracks in the heads that for me turned into a new casting per side. Added to my overall cost yet it's now running and breaking in.

 

Ohio is a rough deal due to rust. Your going to find PB blaster to be your friend.

 

As for the leaks it could be just a pan or your rear main may be leaking. I would suspect pan first. But at this mileage it's up in the air till you get in there and break it apart. 4 qt an oil change is not my idea of a good time.

[Max Capacity]

You most likely need a propeller shaft, your carrier bearing is likely the cause.

 

There is a link to one in JmP's sticky up top about various parts.

 

I just had my local dealer order me a OEM one.

 

You need to grab the front shaft of the shaft and see how easy it is to move.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/propeller-shaft-my-story-246593.html?t=246593&highlight=propeller+shaft

[BoozeRS05]

Your compression and leakdown are great, sounds like you just need to freshen up some seals and bearings/bushings.

[kzr750r1]

Some of chose a hell of a rebuild when it probably wasn't needed.

I could have probably gotten away with just a head gasket job and run it. But then I'd be back where I was later since the exhaust valves were torched from too many miles on the stock tune.

 

Pull it. Seal it. Run it is a choice.

[LatentWagen]

BUT, this car has some issues that really need to be addressed soon. Firstly, it leaks oil seemingly everywhere. The underside is very oily, and I can identify at least two leak sources. I need to add almost 4 qt of oil every OCI. Good for the engine I suppose, bad for my wallet and the environment. I'm not certain how much of that is leaked out vs burned, but I would guess it's mostly from leaks. I got a compression and leak down performed almost 10k miles ago, and it was very acceptable: 130-135 psi, and highest leak down was 5%.

 

Replacing 4qts over an OCI is almost an oil change worth, so at that rate you're almost in balance, never need to change the oil. Just the filter.

 

And your shortblock sounds fine, as others have said. No need to replace a nicely seasoned block. Re-seal it all around, adjust the valve clearances (replacing exhaust valves isn't a terrible idea), and you'll be good to go. Don't skimp on replacing sensors and little things like PCV valve.

[o5ubaru_5mt_GT]

Thanks for the advice guys. You have given me the motivation to put in some work and freshen up the ol' gal. I'm really not ready to part with this car. And thankfully I have a good friend who owns a lift and all the fixins.

 

Replacing 4qts over an OCI is almost an oil change worth, so at that rate you're almost in balance, never need to change the oil. Just the filter.

Yea, lately I've been pushing the OCI a bit further ... the "old" oil coming out almost looks like new these days lol. I suppose I could theoretically just add the drained oil back in after changing the filter. :o

 

No need to replace a nicely seasoned block.

Glad to hear my block is "nicely seasoned"... I like that. Like grandma's old cast iron pan.

 

Ohio is a rough deal due to rust. Your going to find PB blaster to be your friend.

The bright side of all the oil leaking is some "free" rust proofing! But seriously yea, road salt blows. I probably spend way more money on car washes in the winter because of it.

[kzr750r1]

If you can get it done soon before winter settles in. I had to get motivate and drop mine in the dead of summer. Either extreme is no fun.

 

Either way stop lurking and join in the fun of keeping a 10+ year old car on the road.

[Zac88]

195,000km

 

Still on Cobb stage 2 catless. Had a weird burning smell on a highway trip this weekend

noticed the smell was coming from the passenger side when I stopped to check. I remember the inner cv boot was starting to leak and maybe it finally let go and got on the down pipe wrap.

[SBT]

Would bet it's the CV joint. Could also be the turbo drain line.