Who has the most miles on their LGT, and how are they holding up? - Vol-2

[LatentWagen]

125k original miles on block and turbo with cobb stg 1 map on rotella t6 with purolator pl14610 or psl14610 or fram ultra filter

 

so far i have replaced...

fumoto valve

all wheel bearings

a set of lugs on a bearing hub after one broke

front struts

front control arms and balljoints with aluminum ones

front end links

front tierod ends

sway bar bushings

clutch,fly wheel, pressure plate at 65k because the previous owner couldnt drive manual

2 timing belts, the first at 45k because somthing was eating the belt

front oil seal and waterpump and timing idlers and tensioners when i did the last timing belt

front and rear brakes

group n sti pitch stop rod

mishimoto silicone intake tube after the stock one broke

cv axles and transmission oil seals

radiator hoses

accessory belts

spark plugs

passenger side valve cover gaskets

 

In my big box o parts i have the following left....

goodridge ss flex lines

rear struts

rear end links

urethane shift bushings

urethane diff bushings

urethane trans cross member bushings

urethane rear cross member bushings

group n trans mount

rear big brake kit (uses stock calipers with bigger rotor)

radiator, current one is leaking from top crimp

drivers side valve cover gasket

oil pan gasket

 

Nice list!

 

Not sure about the Purolators, but the Fram filters aren't ideal. Bypass pressure is different, IIRC.

[WahooNo2]

Nice list!

 

Not sure about the Purolators, but the Fram filters aren't ideal. Bypass pressure is different, IIRC.

 

Ya... I know they are the wrong spring pressure rating for the bypass valve 13 psi on fram http://www.fram.com/search-parts/Part-Detail/?PN=XG7317

14-18 psi on purolator http://www.filtertopia.com/filters/PUROLATOR/L14610.htm

vs 16-20+ but I still have a stock of them that I need to use before buying more :-\ . I do change the oil like 3500-4500 miles depending.

 

Purolator PL14615 looks to be correct now with a 20-30 psi relief valve

and fram's cardboard garbage PH9715 with 16-28 psi

 

 

I do use several old hard drive magnets (neodymium) on the sides of the filters to capture any iron/steel filings and cut each open to make sure there isn't anything crazy in there and to drain out any oil left.

[Lafta]

Just the other day, I finally turned 'er over to 60k mi. Darn it!

Some parts replaced include:

driver's rear wheel bearing

oil pickup tube and baffle (Killer B, ftw)

fuel system cleaning and de-carbonizing service

accessory belt

transmission/differential oil change(s)

coolant flush with Subaru blue

 

Needs:

A full brake job. Going with Hawk pads, steel lines, and quality rotors.

Timing belt and related parts, in 1 year.

Clutch....not yet!

Turbo....oh boy. Not yet!

Plus, plus, plus! I'm on it!

 

A better described link here....

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/canada-2008-subaru-legacy-gt-spec-b-stage-2-250560.html

 

Yes, it's for sale. No rush to sell though. Still "lovin' it", yes.

It's just that I don't have a whole lot of mechanical experience,

so I kind of feel like I'm walking on egg shells whenever I drive it (I never rev above 5k!).

It doesn't help either in that from what I see, every single one of you guys wrench your own cars.

Thanks to everyone who shares their experiences here on the forum,

as well as private messages whenever I ask. Much appreciated!

Edited March 11, 2016 by Lafta

[WahooNo2]

It's just that I don't have a whole lot of mechanical experience,

so I kind of feel like I'm walking on egg shells whenever I drive it (I never rev above 5k!).

It doesn't help either in that from what I see, every single one of you guys wrench your own cars.

Thanks to everyone who shares their experiences here on the forum,

as well as private messages whenever I ask. Much appreciated!

 

Wrenching for me started with one or more of the following:

-Being too cheap to pay someone to do the job

-Not trusting the man to do the job right and feeling that he is going to rip me off

-Reading a Legacygt.com post/Haynes/Service manual and thinking that the job looked easy

-Believing that a certain part/bolt would be easy to remove and not break while doing it.

-Rationalizing the purchase of tools that the cost of parts + the tool is still less than having the man do it... and then you have cool garage space occupying tools.... eg a transmission jack

-Having too many "while im in there moments"...

 

Before you know it you will have a living room full of new parts, a car on jack stands for a month without the ability to move under its own power or even be towed out ... and then at the end you can say that you accomplished the job with your sore aching body and bloody knuckles

[AZZMAN]

I got to get to work.

[LatentWagen]

I kind of feel like I'm walking on egg shells whenever I drive it (I never rev above 5k!).

 

Don't be scurred! Mine has 177k on it now and going strong. Sees 6k RPM at WOT multiple times a day. This was a trip home not too long ago

 

 

These motors don't like being babied. Keep fresh oil in it, run good gas, stay up to date on maintenance, and drive the car like it's meant to be driven!

[MTBwrench]

Don't be scurred! Mine has 177k on it now and going strong. Sees 6k RPM at WOT multiple times a day. This was a trip home not too long ago

 

 

These motors don't like being babied. Keep fresh oil in it, run good gas, stay up to date on maintenance, and drive the car like it's meant to be driven!

 

Looks like many of my drives home. I, for one, am a firm believer in the 'ole "Italian tune up".

[Max Capacity]

About to head back to VT in the wagon, 9 weekends in a row, only took the Spec north once this winter, and the new outback over Xmas week. Should turn 222,000 miles soon.

[JBear]

Just turned over 436,000 on my 12V Cummins today.

 

Oh wait... wrong forum.

[dzehner2]

-Having too many "while im in there moments"...

 

^+1 for this...

[nightmonkeygt]

Just turned over 436,000 on my 12V Cummins today.

 

Oh wait... wrong forum.

 

LOL I wonder how many shortblocks and turbos it would take to reach 400,000 miles....

[HAMMER DOWN]

LOL I wonder how many shortblocks and turbos it would take to reach 400,000 miles....

 

Just one of ea. I'm almost 3/4 the way there:cool:

Edited March 18, 2016 by HAMMER DOWN

[Skiman]

Good morning Folks. Just turned 227,000. I have also completed most of what WaHooNo2 has done, plus replaced the radiator at 180,000 as top plastic cracked and leaked with Mishimoto hoses. Have installed Invidia up-pipe, SPT intake, Perrin lightened main drive pulley, Centric cryo rotors with Hawk HPS pads front and rear, struts and shocks, Kartboy end links front and rear, etc., etc. Always looked to replace worn out parts with better. Car has been well maintained as I am original owner.

 

Here's current tale of woe....had the infamous P0011 killer code along with the funky zip sound from the turbo. Wound up pulling some hoses and found them packed with oil sludge and moisture. The more we checked the various lines, we found this sludge throughout the intake system.

 

Long story shortened, sludge was everywhere; had to pull intake manifold, and clean out, replace many hoses which hardened over time, PCV, cam covers, valve cover gaskets, oil pan dropped and cleaned, OCV's replaced, timing belt, rollers, tensioners, water pump and finally, a new turbo.

 

We all love that statement, while I'm in there. I've run Royal Purple oil since 10,000 miles and compression is 140 at 202,000 with minimal valve leakage. So my question is, is anyone using an oil catch can here and would that have prevented the sludge buildup throughout the motor? I know, dumb question. May look to put one on as I plan on keeping the car for many more miles.

 

Thanks for the info on the Purolator PL14615 filter. I also use a magnetic oil drain plug.

 

FYI - After all the work I just did, the smile is back on my face at WOT as my baby just runs and runs. Safe and happy driving to all.

[LatentWagen]

So my question is, is anyone using an oil catch can here and would that have prevented the sludge buildup throughout the motor?

 

I wouldn't run a catch can or air/oil separator unless you're tracking the car.

 

You mentioned the hoses were plugged up, maybe the PCV valve had failed? Was your car used for short trips? Do you see boost on every trip? I have similar mileage on my car but have not dealt with sludge issues, so I'm curious as to what allowed it to build up... what was your oil change interval with the RP? Maybe some top end cleaner would've helped your situation, but of course it's best to do what you did and replace. That rubber was old, anyway!

[WahooNo2]

Good morning Folks. Just turned 227,000. I have also completed most of what WaHooNo2 has done, plus replaced the radiator at 180,000 as top plastic cracked and leaked with Mishimoto hoses.

 

Thanks for info. What radiator did you end up going with? My top plastic end cap on my radiator is now leaking at the crimped part. I'm thinking about getting a 1 inch thick STI radiator from rockauto vs the 5/8 inch stock size one. Koyo and Mishimoto aluminum ones are loved by many here but I can't justify 300 dollars on that right now for a car that likely wont see a track in the near future.

 

Thanks in advance.

[BoozeRS05]

In my experience, always go with an OEM thermostat when replacing the radiator, never the aftermarket ones that come with the radiator. Same goes for the radiator caps.

[Skiman]

Good morning. The OCI with Royal Purple is every 4 - 5,000 miles depending on types of trips. Level checked weekly and always kept at safe level. Filters were either OEM or RP. I have a mix of short, 6 mile and longer, 45 mile trips weekly with some even longer. The longer are mostly on the Interstate to either NYC or Philly and at times, more often than not, at WOT, to get through traffic.

 

The PCV was not clogged but had some sludge build up. I suggest to check all the rubber hoses as they get hard and lose their efficiency.

 

When I bought the car, I was working in NYC and went with the 5EAT vs. manual. It's no fun to go into or out of the city with a manual during rush hour. I looked at the aluminum rads but they weren't for the 5EAT as I remember. I went with the stock OEM radiator and thermostat. Using the Mishimoto hoses and cap.

 

Happy driving to all.

[WahooNo2]

In my experience, always go with an OEM thermostat when replacing the radiator, never the aftermarket ones that come with the radiator. Same goes for the radiator caps.

 

i replaced my thermostat less than 2 years ago with a stant xactstat 48457 when i did my timinng belt and waterpump. it had the same dimensions, proportions, and opening sizes of the orignal. i boiled the old and new to make sure that each opened correctly at the same time while monitoring water temp with a meat thermometer. its neat to watch the thermostats open... the springs actually contract when they open up.

[WahooNo2]

Good morning. The OCI with Royal Purple is every 4 - 5,000 miles depending on types of trips. Level checked weekly and always kept at safe level. Filters were either OEM or RP. I have a mix of short, 6 mile and longer, 45 mile trips weekly with some even longer. The longer are mostly on the Interstate to either NYC or Philly and at times, more often than not, at WOT, to get through traffic.

 

The PCV was not clogged but had some sludge build up. I suggest to check all the rubber hoses as they get hard and lose their efficiency.

 

When I bought the car, I was working in NYC and went with the 5EAT vs. manual. It's no fun to go into or out of the city with a manual during rush hour. I looked at the aluminum rads but they weren't for the 5EAT as I remember. I went with the stock OEM radiator and thermostat. Using the Mishimoto hoses and cap.

 

Happy driving to all.

 

Thanks for the info!

[SBT]

I've seen several posts and threads over the years about Royal Purple sludging-up and causing issues. Not sure if that's the culprit, but sludge is typically oil- and/or OCI-related. Personally I like the 10W40 Valvoline or Rotella T6 (both Full Synthetics) brands, on NMT 4,500 mile OCI.

[08 LGT]

Ya... I know they are the wrong spring pressure rating for the bypass valve 13 psi on fram http://www.fram.com/search-parts/Part-Detail/?PN=XG7317

14-18 psi on purolator http://www.filtertopia.com/filters/PUROLATOR/L14610.htm

vs 16-20+ but I still have a stock of them that I need to use before buying more :-\ . I do change the oil like 3500-4500 miles depending.

 

Purolator PL14615 looks to be correct now with a 20-30 psi relief valve

and fram's cardboard garbage PH9715 with 16-28 psi

 

 

I do use several old hard drive magnets (neodymium) on the sides of the filters to capture any iron/steel filings and cut each open to make sure there isn't anything crazy in there and to drain out any oil left.

 

You can also use PL14610. It's a little longer, but fits fine.

[idendor]

@181,000 Subie dealer showed me the sludge in the oil . I had been using Valvoline Synthetic , and 3,500 mile old changes as routine. I agreed to the oil system flush the dealer recommended. Now at 195,000 and switch over to Royal Purple, only because they have been sponsor to Rally-America.com series.

 

I have a feeling that sludge is a normal occurrence not related to oil brand or change interval. I had concerns about performing a oil flush, but dealer convinced me it a-ok, and would warranty any engine issues that resulted.

 

I don't baby my motor. Did four drag strip runs since the flush. My driving routine has shifted. Less 45 minute commutes, and more ~8 hour highway trips @80 , and quite a few WOT.

 

Engine consumes about 1 qt oil between oil changes. Next oil change I am pulling 2 oil samples and sending to two different labs. I am curious on the results reports and will share.

 

PS et tu on Radiator end cap crack on top @ 167,000, replaced with OEM. 5EAT tranny.

[dzehner2]

 

Engine consumes about 1 qt oil between oil changes. Next oil change I am pulling 2 oil samples and sending to two different labs. I am curious on the results reports and will share.

 

[Max Capacity]

@181,000 Subie dealer showed me the sludge in the oil . I had been using Valvoline Synthetic , and 3,500 mile old changes as routine. I agreed to the oil system flush the dealer recommended. Now at 195,000 and switch over to Royal Purple, only because they have been sponsor to Rally-America.com series.

 

I have a feeling that sludge is a normal occurrence not related to oil brand or change interval. I had concerns about performing a oil flush, but dealer convinced me it a-ok, and would warranty any engine issues that resulted.

 

I don't baby my motor. Did four drag strip runs since the flush. My driving routine has shifted. Less 45 minute commutes, and more ~8 hour highway trips @80 , and quite a few WOT.

 

Engine consumes about 1 qt oil between oil changes. Next oil change I am pulling 2 oil samples and sending to two different labs. I am curious on the results reports and will share.

 

PS et tu on Radiator end cap crack on top @ 167,000, replaced with OEM. 5EAT tranny.

 

 

 

I'd be curious as to how your getting sludge with that type driving. in my click here link, you can see my engine at 154,000 miles of basically the same driving type. zero sludge.

[SBT]

Zero (0) sludge in my engine after 155K miles. Pulled the oil pan, and everything was dripping and a nice golden color.