outahere

I had to return 81812AGO3B to the dealer for an exchange. Superficially it looks identical to the "3A" harness that is original in my car, but the wire colors do not all match. I called the dealer parts dept and they told me they made a mistake; based on the VIN I supplied I should have been shipped 81812AGO3A. My car was built in Nov 2004. SubaruPartWholesale paid for the return shipping, and for 2-day shipping on the correct 3A harness, and I paid $29 for the 3A harness. The 3A harness costs $29 more than the 3B harness.

My rear wiper and rear defroster stopped working last winter. After some procrastination I finally ordered a new harness 81812AGO3B. The price of a harness has doubled over the last 6-7 years . The best price I found was $158, from subarupartwholesale.com. The installation walkthrough at https://www.legacygt.com/topic/110759-walkthrough-replace-wagon-wire-harness/ will be very helpfull.

Yes, with a Snap-on tool https://shop.snapon.com/product/Ball-Joint-Presses/4-pc-BJP1-Subaru-Bushing-Kit-(Black)/BJP1-BKS

Sounds like your rotors have never been measured for runout mounted on the car, only when mounted on a lathe? On the car axial (aka lateral) runout should be 0.002" or less, per Subaru specs. If you already own a magnetic base and dial indicator this is a no cost trouble shooting step. If runout exceeds 0.002" reindex the rotor on the hub after cleaning the mounting surfaces, and measure again. Here is one example of the runout variation seen with a new rotor on an old hub: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/importance-hub-cleaning-measurements-timken-hub-assembly-228582.html how to measure runout: https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/brake-shop-measuring-brake-discs-hub-flanges/

Have you ever measured the axial runout on the rotors? Even with new rotors you can't always assume it is OK.

The new dessicated inflators being installed this year may be subject to a 3rd recall in the future! What a mess! https://www.autoblog.com/2020/01/14/takata-replacement-airbags-recalled/ https://www.bendbulletin.com/business/another-massive-takata-recall-looms-for-large-batch-of-air/article_4d8c6aeb-de94-5b18-a87b-e310119d53fb.html

Do a search in the Interior/Audio sub-forum and you will turn up dozens of threads about sound deadening and noise reduction. Start by searching for "noise". https://legacygt.com/forums/search.php?searchid=22007034 Also take a look at this Sound Deadening FAQ: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/sound-deadening-faq-7036.html?t=7036

FYI, there is no such thing as "SAE approved" or "DOT approved" automotive lighting. https://www.truck-lite.com/content/news/sae-vs-dot-truth-about-lighting-regulations https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?437738-Recommendation-for-a-DOT-legal-LED-driving-or-fog-light&highlight=fog Look for foglights that conform to the latest SAE J583 F3 specification. https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?456564-Rigid-DOT-selective-yellow-Fog-Lamps&highlight=fog

I procrastinated during the first recall (I rarely carry a passenger) and did not have it done until Nov 2018. I received the improved, updated "GO5A" inflator.

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/outback-recall-for-airbags-just-saw-at-consumer-reports.517958/#post-5923467

https://www.cnn.com/2020/01/09/us/subaru-2020-recall-airbag-explode-trnd/index.html https://www.consumerreports.org/car-recalls-defects/subaru-recalls-nearly-500000-vehicles-to-replace-defective-airbags-again/ https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/2nd-airbag-recall.518123/ https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/outback-recall-for-airbags-just-saw-at-consumer-reports.517958/#post-5923467

Remember the Osram 65W 2100 lumen H7 bulbs? They have been out of production for a few years. But Daniel Stern is having the equivalent bulb manufactured in Germany, and they are supposed to be available some time this month. From his website: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html#H765

There are wire/cables available that are specifically designed to withstand 1000s of cycles of flexing and bending.

Motul Gear300 works for me.

The latest from Stern about 65W 2100 lumen H7 bulbs:

Just curious if anyone has tried NGK's new "ruthenium" plugs. http://www.ngksparkplugs.ca/products-spark-plugs-Ruthenium%20HX.cfm There are 2 versions available, one for normally aspirated, and one for turbocharged/supercharged engines.

This is exactly what I saw on my LGT passenger side boot small clamp at 45,000 miles in 2013. And now in 2019 I am seeing a grease leak on the driver side boot small clamp, at 65,000 miles.

All you need is a sturdy piece of wood dowel, or plastic pipe, to place between the steering wheel and the clutch pedal (when it is down at the floor). This will pressurize the system so you can bleed it.

I am skeptical of bulbfacts.com http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?453228-are-these-test-results-worth-anything

The 18ga (PVC insulation) continuous-flex wire (rated for use at -40F to 175F) at McMaster-Carr is surprisingly expensive: $48 for a ten foot length. They also sell some ultra-flex wire with silicone insulation (rated for use at -40F to 300F) that is less expensive, but it does not seem to be as durable as continuous-flex wire. It is cheaper to buy Long Life Continuous Flex Cable with multiple conductors: A 5ft length of 18-3 cable contains 15ft of wire for $27.50 Searching at http://www.mcmaster.com using "automation cable" and "automation wire" turns up a lot of interesting choices. If using crimp type butt connectors, the type with crimped insulation support is a superior choice I think. Some people might consider it overkill. One example would be the PIDG series from AMP: https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/pidg-series/10333 Molex also has a similar high quality connector in their Avikrimp series, at a lower price than the one from AMP https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/avikrimp-series/10191

Here is a link to a short video on how to correctly use the Krikit: http://www.daycoproducts.com/dayco-krikit-tension-gauge

A Gates "Krikit" belt tension tool is only around $14, or less. https://www.amazon.com/Gates-91132-Belt-Tension-Tester/dp/B000CRDLZM/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541595670&sr=1-2&keywords=krikit+belt+tension+gauge&dpID=413uQEAqFqL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I think he has a manufacturer lined up. From the thread I linked:

I would expect that with enough rotations of the crankshaft, all the reference marks on the belt and sprockets will line up again.

I did the starter R&R from under the car the previous 2 times. This time, to install a new rebuilt starter, I did it all from the top. No crawling under the car. I was able to loosen and torque the bottom bolt using my long handled 1/2"-drive ratchet wrench (and torque wrench), along with a 5 inch extension and a short 6pt socket. A 6 inch or 4 inch extension did not work for me.