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Who has the most miles on their LGT, and how are they holding up? - Vol-2


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2005 with 160k mix of city/highway. Upgraded turbo, up & downpipe, intercooler, fuel pump & injectors with custom tune.

 

Holding up pretty well, just replaced the stock radiator (with a used one with warranty to save a bunch of money) and a cv joint went bad at about 90k after the boot split and threw grease out while I was on the highway. I do all the work on it myself except for that cv joint so I make sure it has quality fluids, proper torque blah blah. 100% synthetic oil and ATF since day one and no problems with smoke/leak/shifting so far, knock on wood.

 

The only other things gone bad are the underbody tray with splits in it, popits that break every freaking time and the emergency brake vinyl cover that won't stay in place any more.

 

My kid (22 now) says he gets the car when I get a new one and I say "fine, because I'm never getting a new one" :) I'm going for the Viking funeral, they will put me in the car and light a big bonfire as I ascend to Valhalla with my personal entourage.

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For those that didn't see me post about the brake fluid leaking. Subaru put all new brake lines on my wagon last week and a left rear caliper because they broke the bleeder, for free. Not a bad deal for a car with 232,000 miles on it and being over 12 years old.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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127k and climbing as the DD. Been averaging a little over 20k/year. Recently replaced the DS CV axle, since the boot tore and spewed grease everywhere. Aftermarket radiator is likely next (Koyo/Mishi). Still doing 4k OCI's, despite Blackstone giving me the green light for 5.5k intervals. Engine, otherwise, is doing well (knock on wood) - compression, leakdown, and HGs are all within spec. Hoping she's got at least another 127k left in her.
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See my sig...

 

Now have the 'bubbling heater core' issue, which is the mix / blend actuator mechanisms going bad. Will be replacing them when the airbags are replaced under factory recall. To get to the driver's side mechanism, you essentially have to remove the dash, which they're going to do anyway for the airbag replacement. While the driver's side isn't bad - pass is the current problem, I'm replacing it now as preventive maint.

Edited by Apex-XT
300k miles, BNR 16g, CryoTune, 'Bullet-Proofed' IC, Motor rebuild @ 250k b/c of a cracked exhaust valve. Original 5 EAT. Oil changed religiously @ 3,000 mi.
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  • 3 months later...

120500 miles on my 3.0R. Bought it with about 30K on it about 6 years ago.

Still on the original engine and transmission.

I have replaced all brakes at least once and I think I'm coming due again. Also have replaced shocks/struts, rear springs(one broke), tie rod ends, front LCAs & ball joints, front wheel bearings, front CV axles, accessory drive belt, cat back, and battery.

Normal maintenance performed including trans flush, front and rear diff oil change, coolant change, filters, brake fluid, etc...

 

Car runs and drives well! No leaks on anything. I hope it lasts for another 120K.

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'05 with 137k. All stock/original motor and drive train. Owned since 12/15 with 123k.

 

Runs strong but has a laundry list of things to attend to this spring: bubbling heater core, right rear bearing needs replaced (both front replaced last summer), brakes need replaced, fuel lines need to be tightened, rear driver side door actuator not working, downpipe heat shield rattle (not a performance issue but annoying AF), typical Subie rust on rear driver side wheel arch, planning on replacing shocks/struts this summer

 

All-in-all its a great car. Removed the banjo bolt filter last summer and it was clean as a whistle. Change the oil every 3750 miles. Multiple Blackstone reports come back with only some lead in the oil (bearing wear). Need to look into a trans flush (5EAT) and brake fluid as well

Edited by web94
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05 with 111k. All stock/original motor and drive train, owned since 06/05 with 3 miles.

STG1 tune, catless UP,Banjo Filter removed, RSB, brackets, MOOG endlinks FRT/Rear,FRT control arm bushings,inner axel boots, rear wheel bearings (warranty) and wastegate replaced.

Rotella T6 5w-40 @ 3500 miles Mazda Roki filter. Garaged it's whole life, exterior/interior 9/10 debadged, people ask what it is and think its new. LOL. If anything major ever goes it will get a JmP VF40, stage 2, full rebuild with a ClimberD Hexmods, it's not going anywhere soon, it will be a classic.

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Just rolled 50k on the spec b.

Wagon is just about 198k. A number of issues dealt with. Currently, the driver's door won't unlatch from in or outside due to corrosion on the actuating mechanism. Have replacement part(s) but not sure I'll be able to get the door open to be able to get the door card off...grrrrr...

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Just rolled 50k on the spec b.

Wagon is just about 198k. A number of issues dealt with. Currently, the driver's door won't unlatch from in or outside due to corrosion on the actuating mechanism. Have replacement part(s) but not sure I'll be able to get the door open to be able to get the door card off...grrrrr...

UPDATE: Replaced driver's door latch/mechanism as corrosion caused door unable to be opened from inside or out. Such a nice sunny day in upstate NY I was able to remove the salt/grime and give a proper hand wash. 197,690 mi on the DD.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/michaelhneal/IMG_3059_zpslj8wtcxl.jpg

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'05 with 137k. All stock/original motor and drive train. Owned since 12/15 with 123k.

 

Change the oil every 3750 miles. Multiple Blackstone reports come back with only some lead in the oil (bearing wear). Need to look into a trans flush (5EAT) and brake fluid as well

 

How much lead? I started testing at 169k and currently at 202K at 8 ppm lead on a 7k OCI. My first report showed 6 ppm on a 3500 mile change.

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'09 w/ 123,000 mi- bought it with 52,000 mi in 2012

Replaced:

ALL Gaskets @ 117,000 mi. Timing belt @ 100,000 mi, Clutch @ 90,000 mi. Radiator @ 60,000 And currently a cv boot.

Oil every 5k w/ mobile 1 full synthetic high mileage and o.e.m. filter

100 headlight replacements and three sets of tires as well as front rotors and 2 sets of spark plugs

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  • 2 weeks later...

2007 Manual Sedan

140,000 Miles

Conventional Oil every 3500-4500 miles

 

Stage 1 since 60k

 

Original Clutch (!!!)

 

Regular Maintenance (Timing belt, pulleys, water pump, spark plugs, brakes, filters, etc...)

 

At about 120k I replaced the oil control valves myself.

 

Starting to show it's age under the hood. Oily buildup around intake manifold. Louder/deeper tick at idle than a few years ago.

 

I need to replace the front end links that clunk and rattle on the dirt driveway, and the rear wheel bearings are grumbling now. Due for brakes also.

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'09 w/ 123,000 mi- bought it with 52,000 mi in 2012

Replaced:

ALL Gaskets @ 117,000 mi. Timing belt @ 100,000 mi, Clutch @ 90,000 mi. Radiator @ 60,000 And currently a cv boot.

Oil every 5k w/ mobile 1 full synthetic high mileage and o.e.m. filter

100 headlight replacements and three sets of tires as well as front rotors and 2 sets of spark plugs

 

That's really weird that a 2009 would be burning out headlights that fast. I haven't had to change mine once (2008) in 4-5 years.

 

The problem with headlights burning out in the 2005-2007 models was because the daytime running lights used the lowbeams instead of the highbeams. The 2009 should be using the highbeams and not burning through lowbeam bulbs quickly at all. I wonder what's causing that on yours.

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Original owner, currently 235,000 on Royal Purple, just completed new front brakes again with calipers, passenger side wore out, Centric rotors and HPS pads, all new fluid. Engine flush and new turbo, it was starting to act funky, timing belt, water pump tensioners and pulleys, etc, plugs at 225,000.

Try the Kart Boy end links, much better than stock replacements.

The headlights in the 2005 - 07 series simply have crappy low beams overall but compounded due to DRL usage and I've replaced a bunch also over the last 12 years.

Keep them running. I still love the car. Very minor rust which will be taken care of this spring.

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Bought new with 16 mi on odometer in May 2006. Currently 122K.

 

Always have been diligent about maintenance.

 

Things I've done over the past year:

 

New Michelin winter tires 115K

Complete timing belt and water pump kit at 117K

New pads and rotors all the way around 120K

Trans Flush 121K ( 1st time- previous 3 were drain/ refill)

Trans Filter (2nd time) 121K

Front and rear diff (2nd time) 117K

Front axles (2nd time) 122K

Front/rear end links 122K

Front aluminum lower control arms with all new bushing and ball joints 122K

A/C recharge 118K

Cabin filter 122K

Oil Cooler Gasket 122K

New Sumitomo tires ( super quiet tires) 122.5K

New OEM Steering rack bushings 122.5K

 

On list:

 

Spark plugs. ( haven't changed since 70K mi.)

Edited by sic GT
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Yes to answer BoozeRS05, still a stock tune, but now needing a new exhaust from CAT back so, I may look for new or used SPT exhaust and then, since I have SPT intake and Invidia cat less up pipe, a tune would need to be done.

Boys and their toys.

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Yes to answer BoozeRS05, still a stock tune, but now needing a new exhaust from CAT back so, I may look for new or used SPT exhaust and then, since I have SPT intake and Invidia cat less up pipe, a tune would need to be done.

Boys and their toys.

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Just passed 200K miles today with my '05 LGT. I'm the original owner.

She's on her 3rd clutch and has one engine rebuild (failed head gasket at 184k miles.

She still runs like a banshee!

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