Reliability Modifications

[BarManBean]

I thought he meant three bolt on the turbo side. .

 

Also wrong Up pipe will have 5 studs at the turbo connection. Yes, only 3 actually attach to the turbo and other 2 are used for brackets, but I don't think anyone refers to that as a "3 bolt" connection.

[MrTris]

Also wrong Up pipe will have 5 studs at the turbo connection. Yes, only 3 actually attach to the turbo and other 2 are used for brackets, but I don't think anyone refers to that as a "3 bolt" connection.

 

I do!

[Goozer]

Thanks for the clarification!

[Nolmers06LGT]

See, the thing about terminology is... We use specific phrases to clarify with others exactly what we're talking about. So, if you're the only one who describes the turbo-side of the uppipe as "3-bolt"....

 

You're doing it wrong.

[StkmltS]

So if everybody says one thing that makes it right?

 

*Disclaimer*

I feel like stirring up trouble today, and doing so on the internet has far less stressful consequences than real life.

[Nolmers06LGT]

So if everybody says one thing that makes it right?

 

*Disclaimer*

I feel like stirring up trouble today, and doing so on the internet has far less stressful consequences than real life.

 

lol not really what I'm saying. But if everyone uses the same terminology, we can avoid these confusing arguments

[frank_ster]

Change atf fluid every 5-7 k miles ? Are you serious ? Im on the stock tranny and i put the same oil back in when i moded the valve body there might be a bit of new fluid but damm

[Merc6]

I'm still on the stock roxy tranny filter. I want to change it but get flamed when I suggest it.

[Enlight]

I would add replacing the felt on the window track every 8 years or so to the list based on this thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/window-track-issues-scratching-tint-236207.html. My glass got scratched up and there's no warning signs that it's about to go.

[Merc6]

I would add replacing the felt on the window track every 8 years or so to the list based on this thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/window-track-issues-scratching-tint-236207.html. My glass got scratched up and there's no warning signs that it's about to go.

 

I'll keep that in mind when I do another round of ordering things.

[frank_ster]

I'm still on the stock roxy tranny filter. I want to change it but get flamed when I suggest it.

 

u know u can just do stuff to you car and not post it on here right ?

[Leviman]

Frank, I've heard that it's actually best not to change the fluid in a higher mileage automatic trans. The clutch material that was worn off is suspended in the fluid, thus acting as a friction modifier. Interesting stuff, I believe it.

[ClimberDHexMods]

Frank, I've heard that it's actually best not to change the fluid in a higher mileage automatic trans. The clutch material that was worn off is suspended in the fluid, thus acting as a friction modifier. Interesting stuff, I believe it.

If you like replacing transmissions twice as often as everyone else, then that plan makes sense. Fresh fluid is important, among other things. If you have really old black rough fluid. Replace it a little at a time, not all at once.

[Akasa]

You know, I sometimes get those anti-aftermarket part guys that complain because "SUBARU DESIGNED THE PART THAT WAY FOR A REASON AFTER COUNTLESS HOURS OF R&D BLAH BLAH BLAH."

 

I think that Subaru forgot to include the R&D part of the design process.

[H20man]

Frank, I've heard that it's actually best not to change the fluid in a higher mileage automatic trans. The clutch material that was worn off is suspended in the fluid, thus acting as a friction modifier. Interesting stuff, I believe it.

 

Funny you should say that. This is the main reason I am in the wagon at this point. Last November I purchased an 02 automatic chevy truck from the 2nd owner, who told me on a hand shake basis, the trans was looked at and repaired from a company in CA from the known defects those gm trans go thru and there was no current problems with it. On my test drive I checked all the gears and all the 4wd selections and it shifted good through all of them as well as the 4-wheel drive was working good.

 

Bought the truck and a couple days later ran it into the shop for a full fluid change on everything, we were moving in less that two weeks and packing boxes was a full time job with my current job.

 

Shop does the trans flush and other items and we get the truck back to start moving. From our old place to the new place there is a considerable climb to get there. Once in particular part of the drive is a left off a light that goes up hill and puts a slight load on the trans at lower speeds but just enough to let me know the truck was slipping on an up shift in-between 2nd to 3rd.

 

A tranny shop told me the same about the friction part you mentioned above.

 

To make a short story long, I traded the truck in on the Wagon I am now driving since a new rebuild trans for that truck was going to be about 3000-3600 range and there was more wrong with it past that.

[Merc6]

u know u can just do stuff to you car and not post it on here right ?

 

Think I'll put it on the list as well but won't tell you guys it went on the car. Cool?

[BostonLGT]

You know, I sometimes get those anti-aftermarket part guys that complain because "SUBARU DESIGNED THE PART THAT WAY FOR A REASON AFTER COUNTLESS HOURS OF R&D BLAH BLAH BLAH."

 

I think that Subaru forgot to include the R&D part of the design process.

 

They were more concerned with producing their vehicles as efficiently as possible to reduce their overhead costs... At some point early in R&D their chief engineer just said, "**** it, we'll do it live!"

[frank_ster]

Frank, I've heard that it's actually best not to change the fluid in a higher mileage automatic trans. The clutch material that was worn off is suspended in the fluid, thus acting as a friction modifier. Interesting stuff, I believe it.

 

Think of atf fluid as hydraulic oil and it presses on clutches . The dluid also carries heat away from the clutches.

 

the clutches are pressed so hard the oil is squeezed out.

Oil in atf is used more for cooling than lubricating. The particals are filetered out.

By the two filters .

 

If the trans is inherently good it doesnt matter what oil is in it.

 

Some oils behave better in extreams. Cold hot .

 

That being said. What do i know !

 

I am working on the knowledge and experecnces i have gained over the years.

 

I have done amazing things with crap . And i have failed with the best of intentions of having everything perfect.

 

Manufacturers state things to be in the safe side.

 

We try to squeeze the most out of what has been given to us.

 

There are a lot of varibles inbetween that are over looked.

 

So we have general emprical data. Some people say change you trans oil every 7 k miles other says every 50k . But ultimately some where in between is probably the best.

 

If we want to do this scientificly we should all be keeping precice logs and have data logs of our daily driving. And then we can colorbarate with precise information.

 

But i dont think it will happen. In that way.

 

I hope you guys know everything i do is with the best intentions !

[BigTDogg MA]

Frank, I've heard that it's actually best not to change the fluid in a higher mileage automatic trans. The clutch material that was worn off is suspended in the fluid, thus acting as a friction modifier. Interesting stuff, I believe it.

 

I've had two automatic DDs before my MT LGT.

 

One went 90K between fluid changes. I did a drain and refill (not a flush). Slipped on the 1-2 shift forever afterward.

 

The second went 60K between changes. Did a full flush. No slippage issues at all.

 

Both with Amsoil ATF, both 4-sp Toyota trannys.

 

I know not apples to apples, but just some personal experience data points.

[MTBwrench]

Funny you should say that. This is the main reason I am in the wagon at this point. Last November I purchased an 02 automatic chevy truck from the 2nd owner, who told me on a hand shake basis, the trans was looked at and repaired from a company in CA from the known defects those gm trans go thru and there was no current problems with it. On my test drive I checked all the gears and all the 4wd selections and it shifted good through all of them as well as the 4-wheel drive was working good.

 

Bought the truck and a couple days later ran it into the shop for a full fluid change on everything, we were moving in less that two weeks and packing boxes was a full time job with my current job.

 

Shop does the trans flush and other items and we get the truck back to start moving. From our old place to the new place there is a considerable climb to get there. Once in particular part of the drive is a left off a light that goes up hill and puts a slight load on the trans at lower speeds but just enough to let me know the truck was slipping on an up shift in-between 2nd to 3rd.

 

A tranny shop told me the same about the friction part you mentioned above.

 

To make a short story long, I traded the truck in on the Wagon I am now driving since a new rebuild trans for that truck was going to be about 3000-3600 range and there was more wrong with it past that.

 

holy moly $3600?!?!

 

Was it the 4L60/80E, or the 6L60E? That's an obscene price for a GM trans rebuild... The problem with them, especially in trucks that tow a lot, are that the sunshells rupture, and lock everything up. There's a company that makes an aftermarket sunshell, called "the beast" that fixes that issue. There's a ton of other issues, like a rough 1-2 shift, cycling out of overdrive, and jerky lockup but that's all valve body related(no impact on reliability).

 

When mine went (4L60E), I paid my local 4x4 specialty shop $1700 for a rebuild with all new clutch packs etc. And an extra $400 for the beefier sunshell. Now if you had front axle/IFS or 150k-mile-fluidin-the-transfer-case-issues... that's a whole new predicament.

 

Sounds like that shop needed to make some money!

 

 

Oh, and to stay on topic. 192,100 on my trans. New fluid every 45,000. Running just dandy.

[H20man]

holy moly $3600?!?!

 

Was it the 4L60/80E, or the 6L60E? That's an obscene price for a GM trans rebuild... The problem with them, especially in trucks that tow a lot, are that the sunshells rupture, and lock everything up. There's a company that makes an aftermarket sunshell, called "the beast" that fixes that issue. There's a ton of other issues, like a rough 1-2 shift, cycling out of overdrive, and jerky lockup but that's all valve body related(no impact on reliability).

 

When mine went (4L60E), I paid my local 4x4 specialty shop $1700 for a rebuild with all new clutch packs etc. And an extra $400 for the beefier sunshell. Now if you had front axle/IFS or 150k-mile-fluidin-the-transfer-case-issues... that's a whole new predicament.

 

Sounds like that shop needed to make some money!

 

 

Oh, and to stay on topic. 192,100 on my trans. New fluid every 45,000. Running just dandy.

 

Off Topic:

one private shop quoted 2800+tax and the dealer quoted 3200+tax and it was a 4L60E and yes it was used to tow almost its whole life. you are also correct that I had front axle/front diff/front wheel bearing issues as well.

 

On Topic:

172,000 and looking to do a (edit: trans) fluid change with the info found thru researching the threads in this forum.

[frank_ster]

Guy I worked for would would rebuild a 4l60 for 1200 $ and it would be good for 600 hp after

[H20man]

Guy I worked for would would rebuild a 4l60 for 1200 $ and it would be good for 600 hp after

 

I was told by others as well, "take it somewhere else." but all in all the truck was road hard and put away wet. the one thing I could not figure out was this tranny shop was always busy and the guy had 3 mechanics plus himself working there.

[MTBwrench]

I was told by others as well, "take it somewhere else." but all in all the truck was road hard and put away wet. the one thing I could not figure out was this tranny shop was always busy and the guy had 3 mechanics plus himself working there.

 

You made the right choice calling it quits. If the trans didn't do you in the rust would've! And if you had the G80 rear diff, that would've blown eventually too

 

As for trans fluid, you have the 5MT right? Have you checked out the 'cocktail' on Grimmspeed's website?

 

http://www.grimmspeed.com/1-transmission-cocktail-mix/

 

My boss uses it in his stage 3 Forester, that he regularly autocrosses, and he loves it. I heard it helps a lot with the grinding/terrible cold shifting etc. And if you haven't yet, get a Kartboy short shifter, or at least new bushings!

[H20man]

You made the right choice calling it quits. If the trans didn't do you in the rust would've! And if you had the G80 rear diff, that would've blown eventually too

 

As for trans fluid, you have the 5MT right? Have you checked out the 'cocktail' on Grimmspeed's website?

 

http://www.grimmspeed.com/1-transmission-cocktail-mix/

 

My boss uses it in his stage 3 Forester, that he regularly autocrosses, and he loves it. I heard it helps a lot with the grinding/terrible cold shifting etc. And if you haven't yet, get a Kartboy short shifter, or at least new bushings!

 

I had already paid to have the rear end rebuilt, rear axles and rear bearings done last November because it was purchased for a move. it was spiraling downward and I just got out.

 

I did purchase a used Cobb SS Double Adjustable and it came with bushings, just have not had a chance to install it yet. I also read this is what people are using, Subaru Extra S trans fluid. I will take a look at GS as well thank you for the link.