ivonr Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 i have been reading this thread religiously and am doing/having done all the mods i can to increase reliability. 1. how important is it to replace the oil pickup on a (eventually) stage 2 daily driver like mine? the labor looks nasty (crack on me all you want but...i'll be paying a shop to do this) 2. the TSB to replace the banjo filter..does it refer to the easy-to reach one in the front or the PITA one in the back? 3. the infamous oil lines...will they starve pressure away from anything? or is running them pretty much risk-free? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 i have been reading this thread religiously and am doing/having done all the mods i can to increase reliability. 1. how important is it to replace the oil pickup on a (eventually) stage 2 daily driver like mine? the labor looks nasty (crack on me all you want but...i'll be paying a shop to do this) 2. the TSB to replace the banjo filter..does it refer to the easy-to reach one in the front or the PITA one in the back? 3. the infamous oil lines...will they starve pressure away from anything? or is running them pretty much risk-free? 1: The 05s and 07+ pickups were, for the most part, OK. However, it never hurts to buy the Moroso (~$80), or the Killer B (~$170) as good insurance. Labor does kinda suck if you're not taking the motor out, plus downtime of about 24hrs to ensure proper curing of the RTV. 2: The one on the front is fairly easy to reach, as well as the one on the back of the passenger-side head. About an hour under the car with a good LED light, a socket with some creative extensions and you should be OK. It's not terrible. 3: Almost no risk. Then again, the filtration shouldn't be an issue if you run good oil, change it regularly, and don't have a turbo turn into a grenade. The main reason BNR requires buying those lines in order to have the warranty honored, is that they're basically insurance against the main reason a BNR was bought in the first place: Replacement because the old one blew up. When that happened, it was almost a given that the flakes from the journal bearing of the old OEM turbo were in the oil system, and, having the banjo filters removed, or worse, still in place and clogged, would practically guarantee failure of the new turbo within a few thousand miles after replacement. This would mean that BNR would be warrantying units due to an entirely preventable issue, hence, the need for the extra line and the inline replaceable filter unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivonr Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 1. If I'm running OCI's @ 3,500 miles is this worth it? 2. I know the dealer replaced mine (per the TSB) but I can't recall if the TSB calls for replacing both or just the one upfront. If they only replaced the banjo filter up front and the back one gets clogged, I'll only get a CEL at first right? My engine won't blow up? Lol 3. These are the priciest purchase out of all 3 and since I'm running OCI's @ 3,500 w/ Rotella T6 will these do me any good at $300? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 $300 is a fairly small insurance policy on these cars. You don't want to end up being hash tagged by tris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted March 21, 2015 Author Moderators Share Posted March 21, 2015 Major wrong thread fail, lol. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted March 21, 2015 I Donated Share Posted March 21, 2015 1. If I'm running OCI's @ 3,500 miles is this worth it? Doesn't matter how clean the oil is if it can't get to the rest of the engine due to a cracked pickup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivonr Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 I'll go ahead and bite the bullet to have a shop install the Killer B Oil Pickup. For my banjo bolts, I need to see if the dealer inspected/replaced both, or just the one that is more easily accessible. I'll probably go ahead and bite the bullet on the Infamous Oil Lines and have them installed. Better safe than sorry and I wont be left worrying... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DK76 Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 So I have a question: if my car is completely stock, then in order to prevent cracked ringlands all i have to do is to get e-tune and set inner/outer loop to 0? Not sure of the correct terminology on last one... I have already removed filters from banjo bolts and about to install catless up-pipe. Anything else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 So I have a question: if my car is completely stock, then in order to prevent cracked ringlands all i have to do is to get e-tune and set inner/outer loop to 0? Not sure of the correct terminology on last one... I have already removed filters from banjo bolts and about to install catless up-pipe. Anything else? ^^^^This. I'm running a off-the-shelf COBB stage 1 MAP on my car, does that MAP take care of this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 ^ it should you can ask Cobb about it specifically. But just being consistent on type of gas and brand will help prevent that also. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 So I have a question: if my car is completely stock, then in order to prevent cracked ringlands all i have to do is to get e-tune and set inner/outer loop to 0? Not sure of the correct terminology on last one... I have already removed filters from banjo bolts and about to install catless up-pipe. Anything else? Unless you tune yourself (not advised unless you either really know what you're doing, or just don't care if it goes boom), you won't be manually setting your closed-loop/open-loop delay to 0; Load a stage1 map and ride out witcha doors open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DK76 Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Anything can be done to prevent oil consumption? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Anything can be done to prevent oil consumption? Don't drive it Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DK76 Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Lol, I'm not but seriously, I have read tons of forums here and even ltg's with fully built engines consume oil, how so? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 IDK, Subaru state oil consummation of a qt. of oil in 1000 miles is in the normal range. In the owners manual, If you drive you car hard ( upper rpm range). The motor will use oil. I going to make a guess. It's unintended consequences of the motors design. Just keep the oil topped off & enjoy the drive. IMO, wouldn't worry about oil consummation until starts using more the normal. Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Anything can be done to prevent oil consumption? oil consumption us usually from blow by pressurizing the crank case and oil being pushed up the crank case breather into the air intake track. certain amount of blow by is just part of normal engines. blow by usually gets worse from broken ring lands , burned or broken rings and or scratches in the cylinder walls. this oil passes though the turbo and inter cooler. this may appear to be leaking turbo. oil consumption can also come from oil going in the other direction across the piston into the combustion chamber. as well as valve seals and valve guides worn or broken. and turbo seals / bearings worn or broken. regular blow by oil consumption can be reduced by using a larger separation chamber ( there is one located on the back of the block in front of flywheel.) with baffles / wire mesh can help trap the oil and allow it to run back into the crank case. as for heads and turbo they would need to be rebuilt. heads/ turbo working correctly will consume very very little oil. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amptramp Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 If you like air-oil separators, you can use this design in series with the PCV valve: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=1101 But instead of a welded enclosure, use a Hammond (or equivalent) cast aluminum box: http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/1590Y.pdf and there is a range of sizes including the metric 1550 series. Some people use a BMW air-oil separator which has an inlet, an outlet and a drain for returning the captured oil to the sump but some people just clean out the separator and claim the recovered oil is in no condition to return to the sump. Excess oil in the intake (through the PCV valve) causes sludging and increases the octane requirement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dispatch20 Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 So I have a question: if my car is completely stock, then in order to prevent cracked ringlands all i have to do is to get e-tune and set inner/outer loop to 0? Not sure of the correct terminology on last one... I have already removed filters from banjo bolts and about to install catless up-pipe. Anything else? Rennmeister put together a good list of theories on ringland failure (and other topics) here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/some-articles-ive-written-sways-shocks-alignment-etc-238797.html?p=5099127 An pro-tune doesn't seem to fully prevent ringland failures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 If you like air-oil separators, you can use this design in series with the PCV valve: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=1101 But instead of a welded enclosure, use a Hammond (or equivalent) cast aluminum box: http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/1590Y.pdf and there is a range of sizes including the metric 1550 series. Some people use a BMW air-oil separator which has an inlet, an outlet and a drain for returning the captured oil to the sump but some people just clean out the separator and claim the recovered oil is in no condition to return to the sump. Excess oil in the intake (through the PCV valve) causes sludging and increases the octane requirement. i found it interesting the first time i ran with methanol injection. , i found the power gains to be realy good at first and then seemed to become less and less. what i believe happened was the methanol washed the intake pipes and intercooler from the oil being slathered trough out the system and hindering flow ! as they were all spotless after running methanol injection for a while. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivonr Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 this is more of a preventative mod, but if you live in a place where they salt the roads aggressively it can be beneficial to remove your rear wheel well plastic under-body covers, as salt can get trapped between those and the body and slowly rust out that area haven't tried it though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtlonergan Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 this is more of a preventative mod, but if you live in a place where they salt the roads aggressively it can be beneficial to remove your rear wheel well plastic under-body covers, as salt can get trapped between those and the body and slowly rust out that area haven't tried it though! +1 My driver side achieved it's first rust spot. Rubber weather guard on the rear wheel well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 http://www.fluid-film.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivonr Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 +1 My driver side achieved it's first rust spot. Rubber weather guard on the rear wheel well. what salty winter state are you in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 +1 My driver side achieved it's first rust spot. Rubber weather guard on the rear wheel well. Check the inside bottom edge of the passenger side front door...behind the rubber molding. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivonr Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 heat-wrapping the downpipe...can this be added to this list? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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