heiche Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 Another important item to add for reliability is to only use an oil filter with a bypass valve rated at the proper PSI. Many aftermarket oil filters will open their bypass valve at a much lower pressure, which will allow any of the filtered crud to go right around the filter and into the engine/bearings/banjo filters/etc... This high pressure that could cause a weaker bypass valve to open can include one or more of these... -dirty/clogged oil filter -cold startup when the oil is thick -higher rpm BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zepplinluvr2 Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 So you guys are suggesting to remove that cat up pipe????? Where would I find a bypass valve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zepplinluvr2 Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 So you guys are suggesting to remove that cat up pipe????? Where would I find a bypass valve? ok. So what kind of oil filter do you suggest? Name/Brand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted December 27, 2012 I Donated Share Posted December 27, 2012 ok. So what kind of oil filter do you suggest? Name/brand? oem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 Yes. It's a great idea to remove the catted UP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexseiji Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 What causes ringland failure? Is it isolated to cyl 4 due to temperature differences attributed to the stock headers? Could an equal length alleviate this issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboLag23 Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 what does remove cat from up pipe mean? I"m a noob...help me out. The pipe leading from the header to the turbocharger is called the up-pipe. In the 2005-2006 Legacies, this pipe has a catalytic converter in it. Over time, this catalytic converter has a habit of breaking down and sending debris into the turbo. The turbo's purpose is to push air back into the engine, so not only does this destroy the turbo, but it can also destroy the engine. This is why the "cat" in the up-pipe was removed for the 2007 model year and forwards. There are ways to gut the stock up-pipe and remove the debris ahead of time. Alternatively (and probably preferably), you could get an aftermarket up-pipe. Cobb makes one that's $210; other companies will sell you OK ones for $150 and up. It's a simple-looking part, but it can make all the difference. Also, because the banjo filter has a habit of clogging up and starving the turbo of oil (which also causes turbo and potentially engine destruction), it's best to either remove the banjo filter or install an Infamous Performance oil feed line kit. This kit is $220. Look for m-sprank, he's the main guy at Infamous. He can answer questions and sell you stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigjweb Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 [*]Install upgraded oil lines (Infamous products recommended by many) I disagree that an upgraded oil line is necessary for reliability of a stock turbo. I say this because there is zero proof that the factory supply is inadequate. It's the filter that causes the problem. Check it regularly and change your oil on schedule and you'll be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 Also, because the banjo filter has a habit of clogging up and starving the turbo of oil (which also causes turbo and potentially engine destruction), it's best to either remove the banjo filter or install an Infamous Performance oil feed line kit. This kit is $220. Look for m-sprank, he's the main guy at Infamous. He can answer questions and sell you stuff. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4243065&postcount=9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 I disagree that an upgraded oil line is necessary for reliability of a stock turbo. I say this because there is zero proof that the factory supply is inadequate. It's the filter that causes the problem. Check it regularly and change your oil on schedule and you'll be fine. The Infamous line is used to remove the banjo bolt filter while maintaining filtration and bringing the cleanable filter within easy access. It was never designed to improve an "inadequate" oil flow for the oem turbo. In fact, it should be used with the oem banjo bolt for proper flow restriction when using with oem turbo, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigjweb Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 The Infamous line is used to remove the banjo bolt filter while maintaining filtration and bringing the cleanable filter within easy access. It was never designed to improve an "inadequate" oil flow for the oem turbo. In fact, it should be used with the oem banjo bolt for proper flow restriction when using with oem turbo, I can agree with that. However, it's not that difficult to check the filter so I see it as unnecessary for a stock turbo. Since you brought up that infamous line and Barman recommends it, I want to mention that the instructions for that line fail to mention to use the OEM banjo bolt for a stock turbo. Running a turbo with a .165 orifice that's designed to run with a .055" orifice could cause a problem with over-oiling. In fact, service bulletin 02-106-08, Subaru recommends the same thing I originally said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeeeeeYa Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 The CV boot that's mentioned is going to fail early on downpipe-equipped cars unless preventive measures are taken. Part of the OEM turbo shield design is there to protect it as does the shielding on the OEM downpipe. Even on unmodified cars the boot closest to the heat fails first, turbocharged or not. I had to replace a number of axels ruined by bad boots on my earliest Legacys. Starting with my 05 LGT I have added an aluminum shield between the turbo/downpipe and passenger-side CV joint boot. I did this on my STi in addition to wrapping the downpipe. I also carefully cut my turbo shield to preserve as much as possible of its shielding while relieving it just enough for my downpipe. There is special provisions in the shield to protect against turbo IR heat on adjacent cables and lines, AND the boot. The back lower section that projects backward is double-walled and filled with hi-temp fibre to act as a shield. Omitting this by injudicious carving of the turbo shield, or outright replacement with relatively useless bling leaves your CV boot to take the direct heat from a glowing turbo. The shields I've made all have a couple things in common, with this one on my STi the best because it uses one of the now unused captive nuts (and bolt) in the modified heatshield. The other bolt attaches it to the tranny. It is aluminum sheet held by only these two bolts and effectively blocks IR from both the downpipe and is extra protection from the turbo. Never had a boot issue since. While other methods do not offer the level of protection I believe my shield does, everyone can easily retrofit a measure of protection for the boot by wrapping the downpipe. Those yet to fit a downpipe should think long and hard about what is, and is NOT, needed to be removed from the OEM turbo shield. A little up-front work can save a lot of grief and money in the long run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted March 5, 2013 Author Moderators Share Posted March 5, 2013 Damn. I need to sift through this thread and update the first post at some point--been slackin'. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heiche Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Seeeeeya - do you have any pics of said heat shield? BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeeeeeYa Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 Not great ones, like I should have taken when I made it. But as an afterthought I snapped a few with the phone sometime after install. The first pic is looking up from underneath the car, of course. This first photo shows the heatshield attached to the tranny. The bends provide strength and stability. It is solid, without resonance if tapped. The second pic shows the upper attachment that's pop-riveted to the shield, twisted two 45s to provide for attaching to the jutting OEM turbo shield's remaining bottom captive nut/bolt. You can see more clearly in the third picture how it combines with the OEM turbo shield's remaining lower section to provide complete IR shielding from not only the downpipe but the turbo as well. The aluminum foil is extra buildup to further cut turbo IR. (more of that on top, too, but that's another story ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 For 5EAT maintenance, if you're prescribing a drain and fill, that needs to be more often than every 15k. 7k at most, aka every oil change for the longer OCI guys, and every other oil change for the 3000k OCI guys. Alternately, people can do a full 5EAT DIY flush once ever 30k miles, which would be a lot easier because that's only once every couple of years for most people http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-5eat-atf-flush-197248.html DIY Flush is ideal in that you're not mixing old and new fluid every 5-7k miles. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyGTR Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 For 05-06, you can yank the DRL plug underneath the dash. I burned out a set of headlights in about 9 months with DRLs enabled all the time. Do you have a diagram or picture of which plug to pull for the drl's? Thanks, Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Do you have a diagram or picture of which plug to pull for the drl's? Thanks, Rob Check out the DIY threads, or sticky's. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCHM1AN Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Follow this link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyGTR Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 I'd add: Flush brake fluid every 2 years on a street driven car, once a year on an occasionally tracked car.Clean air filter and MAF every oil change, replace per FMS if using OEM.For the DRLs, I disabled mine so I could run HIDs. I also wired my fogs so they work with parking lights, so I use them as my DRLs if the conditions warrant it. The 05-06 DRL is dangerous IMHO, saw a 2.5 owner driving at 7pm with just DRLs on. Tough to tell with the illuminated dash. I think DRLs are some of those idiot functions car companies are adding in now. I'd like to see one where they give the driver a small electrical shock when they change lanes without signaling. The more expensive the car, the bigger the shock. So the asshole that cut me off this morning in a CLS63 would have had is ass fried. How do you wire the fogs so that they work only with the parking lights? Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCHM1AN Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 There's another DIY for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyGTR Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Another important item to add for reliability is to only use an oil filter with a bypass valve rated at the proper PSI. Many aftermarket oil filters will open their bypass valve at a much lower pressure, which will allow any of the filtered crud to go right around the filter and into the engine/bearings/banjo filters/etc... This high pressure that could cause a weaker bypass valve to open can include one or more of these... -dirty/clogged oil filter -cold startup when the oil is thick -higher rpm Any particular brand of oil filter has the proper PSI rated bypass valve? Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyGTR Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Check out the DIY threads, or sticky's. Found it! Thanks. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyGTR Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 There's another DIY for that. I couldn't find the DIY for wiring the fogs with the parking lights. Link please? Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted March 12, 2013 I Donated Share Posted March 12, 2013 I couldn't find the DIY for wiring the fogs with the parking lights. Link please? Rob http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fully-independent-fogs-lights-10782.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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