MTBwrench

Those I have not. It's just not the demographic for around here. But, what I will say is I have demo'd a few of them, and they felt very well sorted. I'm a big fan of that suspension design, even though it's a little dated by today's standards, because it just works! Happy to help! I hate to see someone spend so much money on a bike that's in the weird realm of "really good parts" but also is just outdated to the point where something newer at 2/3 the price, with less nice components, will easily outperform it.

- Non-Tapered head tube - Quick release axles - Crap Avid Elixir brakes - 2 x 9 drivetrain - Fox fork from the generation that brutally failed at CTD damping I wouldn't pay more than $500 for that. It's far past the point of upgrading, and really all of the things mentioned above, for a bike like a Stumpjumper, have vastly been improved upon.

Takes one to know one! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

A quickie from the Chitown Subaru's meet today:

I would pass unless that was closer to the 280€ mark... simply because they're end of life, and not in great condition. There's a high chance that in less than 10k miles the only thing worth keeping form that lot will be the springs. FWIW, I picked up B6's with pink springs, in excellent condition(no rust, 90k miles), for about 770€ shipped.

Precisely why I bought the OZ's. Looks good, light(ish... they're not $600 wheels), I can run a 245/40/18 with a flat alignment, and I can make it around a track without slicing my sidewalls. Function> form. But you have 255s... I can't imagine how much lateral grip that would produce with the right setup. I can take one of those "cloverleaf" on ramps we have all over here in Chicago at almost 70 on a dry day with my current setup. I bet with 255's on a wider wheel(aka stiffer sidewalls) it would be super confidence inspiring. (Also that 40 offset looks super cool)

Rhitter your wheels are the only ones I've seen that I like more than mine.

There was no difference to me with a catted downpipe and a stock catback. A resonated 3" mid-pipe made hardly any difference at all too... but as soon as I changed the mufflers, dear Jesus was it loud. Since I have yet to find a good medium between the two, I have nameless deletes that are on there 90% of the time, and stock muffs get swapped back on for road trips.

Sadly, your best bet is probably media blasting of some sort and a fresh coat of paint/powdercoat.

Lowered OBXT on O.Z. wheels club? Wow, those actually look really nice! I was almost set on those but I'm not a fan of the back color with my red paint and I couldn't really find them in any other color with the offset I wanted. I was thinking about what you were saying about the rub, and I remembered something: A long while back(on here) in the wheels/tires forum sticky I read that when you go +1 on rim diameter, you should drop down 10 on profile. So=, essentially, a stock 225/55/17 would be replaced by a 225/45/18. Makes sense to me, as the 245/45/17 summer tires I had last year were ~1" smaller in diameter than my stockers. Now get some LGT brakes to fill in those wheels

Correctamundo. Twice within a year, actually, because the person I trusted to build the first motor(due to my in confidence) didn't build it very well. Then I literally did it all over again, fully by myself, and it worked out fantastic. I should've did it that way the first time. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

One of my requirements for mods to this car is that they are capable of lasting through salty, wet, Midwest winters without being destructive. I also fully consider function over form (as we all know at this point ). So that narrows me down to wheels that look nice, but also will not rub under any circumstances, while also allowing me to retain a decent alignment and not perform any fender work whether it be rolling/pulling/cutting. I stuck with a 8" wheel because that's about as wide as I can go in the back without rubbing the inner fender liner during hard cornering and about as close to the strut as I am comfortable with in the front with a 245 tire, and stuck with a +48 offset as that allows me to keep my alignment flatter all around to make use of those 245's without rubbing the wheel arches and destroying my tires and creating bare metal spots to rust. Could I have gone with a +45 offset wheel and had "minimal" rub? yes. In fact, I'm sure for daily driving, I'd have none as it's only 3mm difference. But on the autocross track, issues would surely show. I am the type that goes crazy if something I built is not working properly, and rub falls under "isn't working properly" in my book. I know, I'm prissy about it. Thank you! I love it!

Some glamour shots of my new wheel/tire setup, featuring typical midwest April weather. "Will it be 50° or 20° tomorrow? Nobody Knows!" O.Z. Superturismo LM 18x8 +45 with 245/40/18 tires.

I'm still stuck in 10 speed land. My Stumpjumper is an XX 2x10 drivetrain with 42/28 up front and an 11-34 in back because Illinois is the epitome of flat, and my Instigator is a 1x10 with a 36t up front and 11-36 in the back because it spends most of its time trudging through the snow during the cold months. I'd only move to 11s or 12s for the gearing gain(which I don't need where I live), or the fact that there's simply no modern 10s drivetrains nowadays(whihc is very true).

My brain immediately translated to "I have an unevenly distributed 37 minutes of free time to myself during the course of any given month"

Same here as well. Wet, rainy, and still chilly. But I'm okay with that, I need a new 42t chainring for my XX cranks on the XC bike, and the biq squish bike definitely needs a bottom bracket and fork seals... all of which I still have yet to acquire. Now that I'm no longer full time at the shop, and working full weeks with school, it's pretty hard to really have time for anything, and it sucks. Looking forward to a dry summer though!

I almost bought one a few years back, actually. Excellent bike, very playful and fun. I'd definitely recommend it. You have to like the "monster truck BMX bike" feeling though, because it definitely has it! I only decided against because I'm more of a steep head tube, long top tube, low BB fan. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

That's because you missed my answer. But, after a little more research you're looking for Subaru part# 57734AG00B. Should run you about $100 if you can find a dealer that has one.

Same here. B6's and JDM wagon STi springs, I use a 1" alloy Subtle Solutions spacer in the rear. Sits almost perfectly level!

Those actually look great. Lift that wagon up 1.25", put some meaty 245/45s on there, and we'd be speaking my language.

That was a dealer option, which apparently wasn't too common as I get asked this all the time. I had no idea it wasn't factory on all outbacks until someone pointed it out! I have yet to come across any for sale. Go onnnnnnnn....

Concurred. It snowed once here, less than 3/8" inch, and the next day there was so much salt on the streets that it kicked up like gravel on my mudflaps. I can't imagine how expensive and wasteful that has to be.

Subscribed, I like what I'm seeing here. Sounds like you're headed in the proper direction for damn near everything, which I'm not surprised given the past you described.I know people have mentioned it, but I'll add my (sort of detailed) $0.02: -Fueling: Are you upgrading your pump as well? I didn't see mention if it. My guess is(with a pump) that you'll be just close to spot on for 450 crank HP. Perhaps a bit short. FWIW: with a DW65c pump, and 1000cc top feeds, I max at ~67% duty cycle with a 17.5psi boost peak. I have a VF52 and my AFR's are in the mid 10's. I'm also at sea level. All of that being said... I'm only making maybe ~300-320hp at the crank. -Transmission: The reason everyone is urging caution is because of how unpredictably weak it can be. Subaru's 5 speeds tend to break whenever they feel like it when you start nearing 400whp. It can be on a launch, or just during any high torque application regardless of impulse(for you folks that have taken some physics). The issue is the shape of the case. The 5 speeds have heart shaped inner case profiles to allow the gearsets to reside side by side. When large amounts of torque are pushed through them, the case will flex radially from the gears allowing greater distance between the input shaft and counter shaft. This causes the gearsets to mesh improperly, and usually results in shattered gears, sheared teeth, or cracked input shafts. Blast plates keep the case from "blasting" outwards under high torque application and maintain proper gear mesh. They still don't help with shattered teeth though.

Looking good! I'm jealous of those coilovers and that rear bumper. For whatever reason, Subaru decided the US didn't deserve exhaust cutouts.

What's the offset on those wheels? I have rubbing there as well (a lot of us do), but it's from running 245's on a +52 rim. Also, hard cornering and all the flex in the suspension can make them momentarily rub as well.