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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Got a big whiff of oil burning after a drive today. Went poking around and realized the banjo bolt on the rear passenger head is leaking. I removed the screen and replaced washers about 4k miles ago.

 

Is it possible to snug up that bolt without removing turbo? Not sure if there is access from the bottom, going to check it out tomorrow.

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Got a big whiff of oil burning after a drive today. Went poking around and realized the banjo bolt on the rear passenger head is leaking. I removed the screen and replaced washers about 4k miles ago.

 

Is it possible to snug up that bolt without removing turbo? Not sure if there is access from the bottom, going to check it out tomorrow.

 

 

Yes you can get to it without pulling the turbo. I just went through this recently. You would have to remove your intercooler and heat shield around the turbo. After that there is a small bracket from the turbo to the block that you can remove. Then you should have the clearance to get to the bolt. A 17mm wrench should fit in there without too much interference. I used a ratcheting one because it's easier. It took me several times to snug it down enough without leaking. Make sure you have new copper washers.

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Bathtub full of sour patch kids, in the house I put a down payment on, after the running around the movies with hundreds of dollars worth of gummy worms, all of which will be paid for by this catalytic converter I sell

 

millennial paradise

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Yes you can get to it without pulling the turbo. I just went through this recently. You would have to remove your intercooler and heat shield around the turbo. After that there is a small bracket from the turbo to the block that you can remove. Then you should have the clearance to get to the bolt. A 17mm wrench should fit in there without too much interference. I used a ratcheting one because it's easier. It took me several times to snug it down enough without leaking. Make sure you have new copper washers.

 

 

Harbor Fright will have short/stubby ratching box end wrenches, that will make it easier.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Still have the unused gift card from HB with money from returning those 6 ton stands. May check the store out but it's dangerous trip without a plan.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Finally replaced my leaking invidia UP today, installed an OEM unit I had sitting around. Was able to pull off that project in about 2.5hrs start to finish, which I’m pretty damn proud of and didn’t cut or hurt myself. Still only was able to manage 14.5lbs of boost though, but logs look clean for the most part.

 

Also bought an oring kit from HF to replace various shrunken orings around the car - MAF sensor and steering pump, dipstick.

 

Is there a comprehensive engine hose kit for our cars? Samco used to make something I swear or misimoto?

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I found this on Rallysportdirect.com

 

And in the case you hadn't already come across this thread, here it is:

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/question-there-complete-silicone-hose-set-readily-availablei-275834p2.html

 

 

 

 

Lines for the coolant reservoir feeding the turbo do not fit. Cant remember if any other are incorrect of the top of my head. I had Venair custom make the kits for the LGT. I tried to sell them here on the site. It was a bust. Thats why no other manufactures ever pulled the trigger.

 

 

 

Funny how I see threads now asking for parts I custom made years back and threw in the trash because they did not sell. Yet, people expect larger brands to make them now. LOL. :lol::lol::lol:

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Lines for the coolant reservoir feeding the turbo do not fit. Cant remember if any other are incorrect of the top of my head. I had Venair custom make the kits for the LGT. I tried to sell them here on the site. It was a bust. Thats why no other manufactures ever pulled the trigger.

 

 

 

Funny how I see threads now asking for parts I custom made years back and threw in the trash because they did not sell. Yet, people expect larger brands to make them now. LOL. :lol::lol::lol:

 

wish I had bought more of the full kits. Sitting on enough kits to finish my cars but not enough to do more.

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I have just pulled the first Free Range Racing kit off the car and for the most part it lasted.

The only hoses that were weird was the head recirculation and PCV hoses were sweating oil?

I have another kit in stock but may not use it.

 

Likely going back in with OEM and sleeve clamps this time.

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Lines for the coolant reservoir feeding the turbo do not fit. Cant remember if any other are incorrect of the top of my head. I had Venair custom make the kits for the LGT. I tried to sell them here on the site. It was a bust. Thats why no other manufactures ever pulled the trigger.

 

 

 

Funny how I see threads now asking for parts I custom made years back and threw in the trash because they did not sell. Yet, people expect larger brands to make them now. LOL. :lol::lol::lol:

 

This is because people want to do and buy stuff on the cheap. What I have seen over my years in the car world is people with really no funds by these cars and want to make them fast on an ebay budget. That's fine and all, but we see what happens down the road.

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I have just pulled the first Free Range Racing kit off the car and for the most part it lasted.

The only hoses that were weird was the head recirculation and PCV hoses were sweating oil?

I have another kit in stock but may not use it.

 

Likely going back in with OEM and sleeve clamps this time.

My venair head breather hoses sweat too. It's normal for silicone hoses with oil vapor to sweat.
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Good to know. Very strange, likely exacerbated by my #4 ringland failure.

Bummer is the mess left behind on top of the block. It was clean. Came out oily dirty mess.

All others with coolant or oil were in pretty good shape.

Only only that tore while I was tearing the motor down was at the return to the top coolant tank.

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Tore the engine down. Bad vertical scoring in #4 at the 12:00 position and #2 has the same to a lesser extent. Pistons look OK from the top, gonna have to split the block to see if I can find what went south and salvage this crank.
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Welp not I, but a professional....

 

I had a my windshield replaced. Over spring break for my son, we road tripped down to Georgia then back up to Taxachusetts with another visit in Virginia. Anyways, while driving through SC I heard a loud smack on the windshield. First thought was "that's gonna be bad hit" welp it sure was... the final length of the crack was almost halfway across the windshield. Original windshield finally got replaced and WOW! It's amazing the difference... LOL

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

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Tore the engine down. Bad vertical scoring in #4 at the 12:00 position and #2 has the same to a lesser extent. Pistons look OK from the top, gonna have to split the block to see if I can find what went south and salvage this crank.

 

Same. But I had hard ringland failure on #4.

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Same. But I had hard ringland failure on #4.

 

Got my block apart and pulled the pistons. No obvious ringland failures. Unfortunately, the crank and almost everything else inside this engine is too worn to reuse. My plan to put this car back together on the cheap with parts I had laying around might be dead.

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not today, but last night (super late).

 

Replaced RH front LCA (B-Spec style aluminum with poly bushings), inner and outer tie rods, hub/bearing.

 

Found out that my car (no real list of what has been done) has Epic Engineering Springs on all 4 corners (thanks everyone who has tried to help with that) with Koni Inserts, solid adjustable Front Sway bar with solid end links, bar stops, everything... Someone has put some money into it. Oh, it also had whiteline tie rod ends and LCA to knuckle ball joint (ALK, both of which were pretty well shot).

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Got my block apart and pulled the pistons. No obvious ringland failures. Unfortunately, the crank and almost everything else inside this engine is too worn to reuse. My plan to put this car back together on the cheap with parts I had laying around might be dead.

 

That isn't going to last long :lol:, Cheap and Subaru work with only 2.5i cars.

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