What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[SubOperator]

So 6k on my freshly built motor, and my halloween horror story is this:

Compression test on cyl2 - zero

Leak down test - 100% leak

Scooped the cylinder through spark plug hole able to see exhaust valve(s) very easily. They are not closing at all

 

Car will be towed back to engine builder to tear down and hopefully determine the cause.

 

ugh. Hope they resolve the problem. Still major inconvenience for you.

[boxkita]

Looking for the member who built the front mount lgt? lived in colorado? i think he had his own shop?

[Max Capacity]

Looking for the member who built the front mount lgt? lived in colorado? i think he had his own shop?

 

Are you talking a long time ago ?

 

"m sprank" may remember.

[boxkita]

Are you talking a long time ago ?

 

"m sprank" may remember.

 

it's been a few years. I'll ping m sprank

[Gex]

Mwiener2

[s2baru]

If you're planning on building a fmic lmk. I'll gift you a bnib vibrant core for credit towards the nexus setup you have :grin:

[Code]

Pretty sure his was a front mount/low mount TURBO setup. Sorta like the 5th gens use.

[ohno06gt]

I think something is up with my power steering or rack. Had to parallel park at the kids school this morning and the steering wheel shook when reversing and cutting the wheel to get into the spot. Power steering and front diff fluid is good but that's all I had time to check before heading into work. Hope it's something I can knock out before it gets too cold.

 

Also has anyone ordered a turbo from HCFI recently? I've been waiting 10 weeks now and haven't gotten any communication from the owner in over a month.

[s2baru]

Pretty sure his was a front mount/low mount TURBO setup. Sorta like the 5th gens use.

 

I believe that was an outback that had that. Dave at Cryo Tune in Colorado may know more details, maybe shoot him a message

[boxkita]

If you're planning on building a fmic lmk. I'll gift you a bnib vibrant core for credit towards the nexus setup you have :grin:

 

Pretty sure his was a front mount/low mount TURBO setup. Sorta like the 5th gens use.

 

He wanted to have the car sent to him for the conversion. I balked at shipping the car out. But yes it was a low mount front mount turbo.

[tysparks81]

ugh. Hope they resolve the problem. Still major inconvenience for you.

 

Yup I'm on the fence about if this has been an issue since it was built. Car only made 260/260 with a vf52 on the dyno, has had hesitation issue pop up since I got it,(mainly between 1-3k when coming from a complete stop) as well as a hesitating idle through out the power band(rpm rose but you could see the needle shake a little as the rpm rose. Tuner thought it was the light weight flywheel issue.

 

Sucks to have the car down right now, but I'm working from home, and just have to be up a little earlier to get my daughter to daycare.

 

My concern is how bad is the damage? Aswell as How much more is this going to cost me? No idea if piston is toast or if it will need a replacement head. Just hoping for the best at this point.

[lagwagon]

I wet sanded and polished my rust repair. The paint looks like it laid down in layers - when sanded, there is a dark outline at the thinnest spots where it transitions. Not sure why, other than an effect of the paint and 1k in the same can. It did polish pretty easily but it is not as flat at the transitions as the separate paint and clear I did a few weeks ago. Possibly because I didn't flatten the primer enough this time, possibly because the two step process had enough thickness for me to flatten it without cutting through the clear. Either way, the paint is a better (but not good) match and the "quality" of the paint job is nowhere near as good looking as the two step process.

 

Lesson (possibly) learned??? Use separate paint and clear, if you have time. Block sand the primer better (always a good idea).

[s2baru]

Infosecdad forced me to hunt for exhaust since 600 was too rich for me

Ended up buying some HKS silent hi power ones yesterday. Hopefully less than 6weeks to get here, fingers crossed.

[Infosecdad]

Infosecdad forced me to hunt for exhaust since 600 was too rich for me

Ended up buying some HKS silent hi power ones yesterday. Hopefully less than 6weeks to get here, fingers crossed.

 

Sorry, can't sell the Titans for pennies on the dollar like you got your wheels for.

 

Silent Hi-Power are good, I've had those and the ES Premium.

 

I've now found and bought some Tuned by STi wheels off buyee... Not my finest moment

Probably the last big purchase of the year, getting to close to Christmas.

Edited October 27, 2021 by Infosecdad

[ohno06gt]

Took a closer look at the shake in the steering wheel today after work. Only happens when stopped and at very low speeds. When you turn the wheel it shudders a bit, almost knocks. Also was getting a slight chirp from the steering pump area.

 

Took off the engine cover and the power steering pump looked greasy, like possibly fluid has been slowly leaking. Level is maybe a quarter inch low in the reservoir.

 

Time to rebuild or buy a new power steering pump?

[Code]

Sorry, can't sell the Titans for pennies on the dollar like you got your wheels for.

 

Silent Hi-Power are good, I've had those and the ES Premium.

 

I've now found and bought some Tuned by STi wheels off buyee... Not my finest moment

Probably the last big purchase of the year, getting to close to Christmas.

 

This place is a bad influence. Some of you are just late to the party!

[amm203]

Took a closer look at the shake in the steering wheel today after work. Only happens when stopped and at very low speeds. When you turn the wheel it shudders a bit, almost knocks. Also was getting a slight chirp from the steering pump area.

 

Took off the engine cover and the power steering pump looked greasy, like possibly fluid has been slowly leaking. Level is maybe a quarter inch low in the reservoir.

 

Time to rebuild or buy a new power steering pump?

 

If you can stomach it, I'd rebuild your OEM one. My remanufactured pump started leaking within 1,000 miles & new OEM ones are stupid expensive (at least to me). I purchased Gates Kit #348532. This kit is missing a couple O-rings so I also purchased the following: 17mm OD x 13MM ID x 2mm width & 16mm OD x 12mm ID x 2mm width (these can be found for cheap on Amazon.) FWIW I got a box of 50EA of these damn O-rings so I could ship you a couple of each in an envelope for $free.99. One is for the pressure sensor O-ring and the other is an O-ring for that outer bolt with the spring. I then followed a mix of a great YouTube video and a forum post over with the Outbacks:

 

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/power-steering-pump-rebuild-gen-3-2005-2009.516272/ (I did not remove the hex bolt as shown on this guide - didn't seem necessary)

 

Edited October 28, 2021 by amm203

[MajorWood]

Got a confusing problem here in a non-turbo 2007 legacy wagon. Had a car running problem which was traced down to the fuel pump not getting power. Got it running on a temp basis by running a 12V line from the running lights wire on the trailer hitch harness to the pump. Figured that the problem was a bad fuel pump control unit as relay was swapped and the pulled relay was good. Fuel pump obviously works. But when trying to locate a module I was told that it isn't a part of the non-turbo system. It has been on-off rain for 48 hrs so I haven't pulled the molding in the back to look for it, but I wanted to have part in hand when I did, until used parts guy told me it was a turbo-only module (22648AA081). Everything on the forum seems to talk about modding it or replacing it for higher fuel flow. My Haynes manual doesn't show it for the regular model but I need to double check to see if it is a part of the turbo section description. Trying to get something in hand before weekend when it is clear and i can tear into car.

 

 

TIA

 

 

Bob

[s2baru]

Sorry, can't sell the Titans for pennies on the dollar like you got your wheels for.

 

Silent Hi-Power are good, I've had those and the ES Premium.

 

I've now found and bought some Tuned by STi wheels off buyee... Not my finest moment

Probably the last big purchase of the year, getting to close to Christmas.

 

What if I told you I bought a stromung axle back from a junkyard for 14$. I just have a good eye I guess

[xt2005bonbon]

If you can stomach it, I'd rebuild your OEM one. My remanufactured pump started leaking within 1,000 miles & new OEM ones are stupid expensive (at least to me). I purchased Gates Kit #348532. This kit is missing a couple O-rings so I also purchased the following: 17mm OD x 13MM ID x 2mm width & 16mm OD x 12mm ID x 2mm width (these can be found for cheap on Amazon.) FWIW I got a box of 50EA of these damn O-rings so I could ship you a couple of each in an envelope for $free.99. One is for the pressure sensor O-ring and the other is an O-ring for that outer bolt with the spring. I then followed a mix of a great YouTube video and a forum post over with the Outbacks:

 

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/power-steering-pump-rebuild-gen-3-2005-2009.516272/ (I did not remove the hex bolt as shown on this guide - didn't seem necessary)

 

 

 

I'll have a careful look at these links you provided here. Mine is still slowly leaking, I think from the main seal. I did change the oring which most people change on these pumps. But still leaking.

[amm203]

Main bearing seal is my thinking as well. I actually reused that infamous orange o-ring on the OEM pump since I replaced it only 5k miles ago (I was also thinking that’s why the OEM one was having its new-at-the-time minor leak). Resealed OEM pump has 100 miles on it so far - smoke free and no fluid loss at all. We’ll see how well the Gates seals hold up!

[xt2005bonbon]

I hope that's what it is! I'll report back once I get to it.

[ATSystems]

More molestation! Pulled and gave the headlights a proper polish, scienced the crap out a rattling exhaust shield, did the rocker cover/spark plug seals on both sides after finding oil in #1 when I did the plugs and took to the crappy aftermarket front bumper with a hot air gun to make it fit the vehicle a little better. The bottom lip clips have always hung too low for the pins to engage, on tear down it turns out it's just a crappy aftermarket PoS that wouldn't sit right even if you vacuformed it on. But hey, the clips are now on and the towbar imprint now looks like a.. shallower towball imprint. At least I burnt my fingers trying!

 

Being unaware of the setup of these rocker covers at the time and having only owned the vehicle for 36 hours, I threw up a little when I first spotted oil in that plughole. That should be in the welcome sticky.

 

I have a clock/radio that intermittently forgets time and stations, clock unit dies in the arse for 20-40 seconds if you push a button/look at it funny. Relevant harnesses/fuses are all secured and inox'd and I reworked the solder on the clock board but every now and then they just frizz out. Likely related is an intermittent flicker of the clock unit and radio/speedo/tacho (specifically) backlights. 10-ish flashes (dimming more than flashing), the clock goes off for about 5 seconds, then all comes back. Gotta be a common circuit here, that's going to be fun to diagnose. Suggestions always welcome.

 

As a more general question, does anyone have some good info on what makes a good rim from a technical/mechanical perspective? I want to ditch the stockies but I have no idea what constitutes a "good" wheel, which I need to factor in along with the aesthetics of the thing. I am familiar with fitment concerns like offsets, caliper considerations etc, but you could line 6 mad looking wheels up from the hokiest Chinese crap to top end JDM units and I would have no idea which one was going to implode on the nearest speed bump.

[STX 195]

Back in August of 2011, when the car had roughly 60,000 miles on it, I purchased a 19mm JDM rear sway bar from a guy on the boards here from northern NJ... picked it up from him at his house... hollow tube bar, super light at a hair less than 5 lbs... it was one of my 3 favorite chassis mods on the car.

Last week it broke - with the Legacy now at 387k - bar rusted thru on the outboard side of the right side bushing... rats! Rallysport Direct came thru in the clutch, and I had a new, solid, 21mm Cusco bar ( a little beefy at 10.6 lbs., but whatever ) earlier this week. A couple new end links, and we're back in business.

 

Have a great weekend, and Let's Go Brandon!

Edited October 30, 2021 by STX 195

[Enlight]

Tried to troubleshoot my dead HVAC to no avail, though my electrical diagnosis skills are quickly improving. More details in my thread, all electrical wizards welcome.