Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


Recommended Posts

I'll be happy if it's just a supercharger whine sound... My previous attempt to use a clutch masters stage 1 organic on my 07 when I went Stg2 resulted in a rock crushing sound when in decel... This is why I swapped back to my factory Exedy clutch. Been running that clutch since probably 110k on the car, it's been at Stg2, 255whp/310tq from 170k to 260k and it's just starting to slip in 5th now.

 

I'm hoping the Exedy that I have for the 06, which I "think" is the HD model wont sound like the clutch masters one, I know my wife's forester doesn't, so that's hopeful.

 

 

Same experience with CM clutch. went back to Exedy for my 6MT swap, no noise from the clutch. Boys' Outbacks are running Exedy too, with snout sleeves and aftermarket TOB on both.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I feel like all of this is a moot point if you're snugging a bolt down to hold it to the transmission bracket. Vibration will just travel through the metal/metal contact of the threads of the bolt with the captive nut on the bracket.

 

 

True, but if there is some dampening material under the washer/bolt head that may be enough to kill the noise to good extent.

 

 

Next time I have nothing better to do than lay under the car I may look at it.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the news front, I received new to me Perrin 6MT lockout handle today. Yay! If I can get rid of OEM lockout rattle it will make my car much nicer on long drives.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used some rubber on my trans to DP. It didn’t help ant the nut eventually vibrated loose and fell out. YMMV. My car has 55k miles and EVERYTHING rattles all the time. Subaru. Love it or leave it.
"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used some rubber on my trans to DP. It didn’t help ant the nut eventually vibrated loose and fell out. YMMV. My car has 55k miles and EVERYTHING rattles all the time. Subaru. Love it or leave it.

 

 

Mine is at 200K+ and is quiet. I did have some noise coming from the rear gate door (because wagon) but after I replaced the hook (?) and soundproofed the spare wheel well and rear gate the car is really quiet. Except for the 6MT lockout knob which I hope to fix thanks to you. :cool:

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I noticed that swapping back to oem epdm exhaust hangers drastically reduced the decel noise from the transmission. I suspect it's because of the downpipe to transmission bolt that did it. I had poly hangers forever until recently. New rubber hangers has been great for the trans noises.

 

I've always had factory rubber hangers on my system. As someone else noted, for some reason the CM clutches are just REALLY noisy.

 

I got my box of coolant hoses yesterday and the bearings for the trans that I'm replacing... Also ordered the two timing cover pieces that I needed and I should have my transfer case gasket tonight.

 

I may actually be able to install the rear diff, axles, driveshaft and trans this weekend if the planets align... Then its just a few other engine items and it's start up time. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the news front, I received new to me Perrin 6MT lockout handle today. Yay! If I can get rid of OEM lockout rattle it will make my car much nicer on long drives.

 

 

Let us know if the rattle goes away. I was driving my car yesterday and now I'm noticing just how much the shifter rattles.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

True, but if there is some dampening material under the washer/bolt head that may be enough to kill the noise to good extent.

 

 

Next time I have nothing better to do than lay under the car I may look at it.

 

I'm thinking may be a piece of silicone mat as a washer may work/help.

 

Or just remove the hanger and drive the car.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm thinking may be a piece of silicone mat as a washer may work/help.

 

Or just remove the hanger and drive the car.

 

 

Moore Performance does not put the bracket on their downpipes, or at least that was the case 5-6 years ago when I bought mine. No issues, but still plenty of drivetrain noise with all the other hardened mounts on the car. The crossmember bushings seemed like the most noise for the least benefit, and will be getting switched back when I pull the DCCD unit for a bearing overhaul eventually.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't remember, but can't you just unbolt the bracket from the trans? Maybe it is in a hard to reach location though.

 

 

Yes you can. That's how I learned that 5MT and 6MT DP hanger brackets are different.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any volunteers for cutting off the DP bracket and reporting back?

 

You can just remove the bracket on the transmission side. My car has been like this since 2015.

 

Not sure how similar this is since I have a 5EAT, but I've run my Invidia DP with and without the hanger and never noticed a difference in noise. (Had it unbolted for around 6mo/4500mi.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can't rattle if it's blown up and taken apart on a bench.

 

 

....that said, I've had multiple transes that sounded like a garbage disposal trying to process a handful of nails. One was very broken, but it turns out that that was not associated with the noise. Others, including the one that's still in the car, drive and shift beautifully, just make noise.

 

I've had a late model WRX in the shop with a split case 6 speed that made the same sound. Neighbor's LGT had a dead silent trans that eventually developed synchro issues. Replacement unit ended up being noisy like the rest, but shifted beautifully.

 

Seems like the split case transes may just be made with tractor tolerances. Luck of the draw how much vibration they give off, it seems.

IMG_20210210_195739.thumb.jpg.fd3c99c8fd9322aeea72f7d16645a0af.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"Neighbor's LGT had a dead silent trans"

 

 

Which clutch does he have ?

 

Yes both my 5mt's have made the same decel noise. Last Aug I put stiffer bushings on the cross member that were on the spare 5mt in the shed. I think the noise got a little louder. I still have the old OEM bushings on the cross member I took out and have new Energy Suspensions in the box still, they were pretty soft so I didn't use them.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A couple things. I installed the Harmon Kardon stereo from '09 models in my '05 aver a year ago. The only janky part is the power for the amp is pulled off of the power to the head unit. There is a fuse in the '05 engine bay fuse box (M/B Fuse 5 / MB-3) that is labeled 'audio amp' on the fuse box cover. Just did some poking and prodding with my DMM, and the fuse goes to a wire (red with black line). From looking at the service manual, that is not listed in the '05 but is in the '09 (for the audio amp only). Later this year when I pull the dash to replace my A/C servos I'll search for where this wire terminates in '05 MY cars. If not used for audio amps its a good source of 12V for random accessories.

-Red- is new to correct my misinformation from my original post when I said it the fuse went no where. Turns out I was wrong

 

 

Also some talk earlier by others about making a heat shield for the driver side CV boot, has me inspired. Found these two mounting points to work off of (shinny bolts in the unused mounting holes for reference). Add it to the list of things to do.....at least it will be easier with the engine out

IMG_2417.thumb.jpg.0a1b47763fd719bdb4aa89d383f03c8e.jpg

IMG_2420.thumb.jpg.a666c9d60a978ca96dfa4ee1671c88c5.jpg

1588728393_ScreenShot2021-02-28at8_55_30PM.jpg.e3f1f66d6d40b52ba519e6f53977e114.jpg

829154338_ScreenShot2021-02-28at8_55_07PM.jpg.f8dceb6a6a4f7523ef57dec017ea7bf0.jpg

1999924925_ScreenShot2021-02-28at8_54_57PM.jpg.dc392de4b78e739033116b441ddfea63.jpg

Edited by jaylew

Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A couple things. I installed the Harmon Kardon stereo from '09 models in my '05 aver a year ago. The only janky part is the power for the amp is pulled off of the power to the head unit. There is a fuse in the '05 engine bay fuse box that is labeled 'audio amp'. Just did some poking and prodding with my DMM, and that fuse does absolutely nothing. There is no output pin tied to that fuse on the '05. Curious. (this was more of a The More Ya Know kind of comment). I'll either swap in an '09 fuse/relay holder (if they are 1:1 where it matters) or get a mini-fuse tap to properly run power to HK amp.

 

 

Also some talk earlier by others about making a heat shield for the driver side CV boot, has me inspired. Found these two mounting points to work off of (shinny bolts in the unused mounting holes for reference). Add it to the list of things to do.....at least it will be easier with the engine out

I have had a Invidia catted down pipe in my 07 for years now and I have never had a single axle boot problem. It's not wrapped or blanketed... Is this something that affects those who have to sit in traffic more often than others? My drive to work has been 30 min on country roads for most of that time frame and is now down to 10 min for the past 3 yrs. I blanketed my wife's 04 Forester just to be safe but I haven't seen it to be a problem on mine.

 

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the heat shield for the CV is more a 'fun' idea because I am a glutton for project ideas. I have had to replace my CV on my outback a few times due to dry rotting boot near the exhaust. Funny you mention no issue, because when I bought my GT at 205k miles, only one axle was after market, and that was the driver side. It might be a waste of time, but it'll still be fun and can't hurt Edited by jaylew

Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a good point. That was a stock SMFW w/ stock clutch.

 

I've had a OEM smfw and still had the decel noise with the Spec 2 clutch. My wagon is now back on the Spec lwfw and 2+ clutch. The Spec 2 clutch only lasted 50,000 miles. I get 90,000+ out of the Spec 2+ clutch.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Decided I'm finally going to turn my old 200k engine case halves into a coffee table. I haven't even attempted cleaning it since I took it out 4 years ago. Obviously it'll need to be spotless, otherwise the table will look like car garbage. When I call machine shops, what service/treatment should I be asking for?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are a few ways to go about this. First is your general hot tank, make sure you tell them it is aluminum up front this will save you some hassle since some of the chemicals they use will eat up the aluminum. This will give you a “clean” block but might not be especially attractive, this won’t get rid of and surface corrosion it will just be degreased.

Second there is having it blasted, this is not that expensive since you can tell them this will not be used any more and they don’t have to mask off the matting surfaces. This is good for most people. Lastly there is vapor blasting, this my friend is hands down the nicest finish. It will give you the fresh new aluminum look, might take some leg work to find a place that will do it but worth it if you want something for your home. The engine has to be degreased prior to any blasting method.

Hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use