Nonamedude Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 Took advantage of some sunlight and warmth to vacuum out all the winter crap off the floor. Wiped down the seats with some cleaner/conditioner, then finally put on the cover craft seat covers I've had since summer. Lighting was really harsh so forgive the image quality. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 I'm at the point with my clock replacement screen project where I'm finessing the format. Trying to emulate the stock clock/trip computer in look and feel, but with the specific information I want to display. The four tact switches on the breadboard simulate the buttons on the factory clock, so I can toggle the screen modes (from "all on" to "all off" and everything in between) and I can also set the time and date manually without having to reconnect the arduino to my laptop. After this I will be designing a custom PCB to mount the screens to, and to give me contact pads where the stock buttons live. Never made my own board as a hobbyist - should be fun. Also thinking about making a heat shield for the front RH axle boot next time I go under the car. Not just to keep the heat off the CV, but also to contain the grease if the boot ever starts to let go. My downpipe is wrapped and I don't want a fire hazard (or the expense/hassle of re-wrapping it). Cusco makes one for the 6MT though it doesn't quite stick out far enough to cover the boot, and it doesn't seem like it fits the 5MT anyways. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 I'm at the point with my clock replacement screen project where I'm finessing the format. Trying to emulate the stock clock/trip computer in look and feel, but with the specific information I want to display. The four tact switches on the breadboard simulate the buttons on the factory clock, so I can toggle the screen modes (from "all on" to "all off" and everything in between) and I can also set the time and date manually without having to reconnect the arduino to my laptop. After this I will be designing a custom PCB to mount the screens to, and to give me contact pads where the stock buttons live. Never made my own board as a hobbyist - should be fun. Also thinking about making a heat shield for the front RH axle boot next time I go under the car. Not just to keep the heat off the CV, but also to contain the grease if the boot ever starts to let go. My downpipe is wrapped and I don't want a fire hazard (or the expense/hassle of re-wrapping it). Cusco makes one for the 6MT though it doesn't quite stick out far enough to cover the boot, and it doesn't seem like it fits the 5MT anyways. That's really sweet Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 I'm at the point with my clock replacement screen project where I'm finessing the format. Trying to emulate the stock clock/trip computer in look and feel, but with the specific information I want to display. The four tact switches on the breadboard simulate the buttons on the factory clock, so I can toggle the screen modes (from "all on" to "all off" and everything in between) and I can also set the time and date manually without having to reconnect the arduino to my laptop. After this I will be designing a custom PCB to mount the screens to, and to give me contact pads where the stock buttons live. Never made my own board as a hobbyist - should be fun. Also thinking about making a heat shield for the front RH axle boot next time I go under the car. Not just to keep the heat off the CV, but also to contain the grease if the boot ever starts to let go. My downpipe is wrapped and I don't want a fire hazard (or the expense/hassle of re-wrapping it). Cusco makes one for the 6MT though it doesn't quite stick out far enough to cover the boot, and it doesn't seem like it fits the 5MT anyways. Feel free to get in touch with me if you have any questions re: PCB development. I have made quite a few as a hobbyist, as well as a couple for work/school at times (plus I do a lot of electronic CAD layout by trade). Best recommendation I can give you for prototyping is to use OSHPark to have PCBs fab'd. The quality is excellent, prices are great, turn times are reasonable. It's pretty much group-buying for PCB fabrication. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 @solidxsnake - Thanks for the heads up! I'll definitely keep that in mind as I move forward. Is there a free software for board design that you would recommend? The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 Also thinking about making a heat shield for the front RH axle boot next time I go under the car. Not just to keep the heat off the CV, but also to contain the grease if the boot ever starts to let go. My downpipe is wrapped and I don't want a fire hazard (or the expense/hassle of re-wrapping it). Cusco makes one for the 6MT though it doesn't quite stick out far enough to cover the boot, and it doesn't seem like it fits the 5MT anyways. Keep us posted on that. Interested. I don't know how many boots I have changed now since I own these cars, but it's a lot! Now that the engine is new on the 05, I don't want any grease on it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 @solidxsnake - Thanks for the heads up! I'll definitely keep that in mind as I move forward. Is there a free software for board design that you would recommend? I haven't used it myself, but KiCAD is probably the best free/open-source PCB layout software that I can think of. I've also used ExpressPCB in the past for simple boards. I used to use a... let's say, less-than-legitimate copy of EAGLE, but if your board is small and simple enough, the free version of EAGLE may also be sufficient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tocinoman25 Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 (edited) Moment of truth fellas...about to drain the trans fluid and see if its glittering and sparkling so I can finally move forward with my decision. Wish me luck! Lol Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk Edited February 5, 2021 by tocinoman25 Follow me on IG @chefodiycarguy and @chefo.soriano Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tocinoman25 Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 Dirty dirty really cloudy but not glittery. Look at that buildup on the magnet....damn shop I took it to here in Vegas didnt change my fluid when they did my clutch job. Seems the fluid I'd just old and worn? Anyone can chime in please. Hope my 5 speed is still ok. Thanks for any input. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk Follow me on IG @chefodiycarguy and @chefo.soriano Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 Just put the heads on it yesterday... And plated all of the valve cover bolts so I can get those on. I want to spray the whole thing with clear coat since it's so clean! Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 Just put the heads on it yesterday... And plated all of the valve cover bolts so I can get those on. I want to spray the whole thing with clear coat since it's so clean! Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk Masking tape over the ports. Smart. Much smarter than shop towels. Never again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 Masking tape over the ports. Smart. Much smarter than shop towels. Never again... ... Was I not supposed to do that? I clearly missed a horror story lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 Dirty dirty really cloudy but not glittery. Look at that buildup on the magnet....damn shop I took it to here in Vegas didnt change my fluid when they did my clutch job. Seems the fluid I'd just old and worn? Anyone can chime in please. Hope my 5 speed is still ok. Thanks for any input. [ATTACH]289968[/ATTACH][ATTACH]289969[/ATTACH][ATTACH]289970[/ATTACH] Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk Used replacements are cheaper than a rebuild (usually) and the 5spd is solid enough it seems unless you are constantly shocking it. I say that because there's not a good reason not to just fill it and send it. Also some metal wear isn't really abnormal. That's about what mine looked like and after 35k it's still fine. Including about 5k of that doing heavy towing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 Used replacements are cheaper than a rebuild (usually) and the 5spd is solid enough it seems unless you are constantly shocking it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Watchu tryin to say? But in all seriousness, I drove a trans that had oil like that with a bunch of nasty noises for another 20k. The only reason it came out is because I had a spare sitting and I was doing a clutch (like Nonamedude said, replacements are cheap if you're patient). Still shifted and drove fine, though I did find a bad output shaft bearing when I removed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaylew Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 I'm at the point with my clock replacement screen project where I'm finessing the format. Trying to emulate the stock clock/trip computer in look and feel, but with the specific information I want to display. The four tact switches on the breadboard simulate the buttons on the factory clock, so I can toggle the screen modes (from "all on" to "all off" and everything in between) and I can also set the time and date manually without having to reconnect the arduino to my laptop. After this I will be designing a custom PCB to mount the screens to, and to give me contact pads where the stock buttons live. Never made my own board as a hobbyist - should be fun. Also thinking about making a heat shield for the front RH axle boot next time I go under the car. Not just to keep the heat off the CV, but also to contain the grease if the boot ever starts to let go. My downpipe is wrapped and I don't want a fire hazard (or the expense/hassle of re-wrapping it). Cusco makes one for the 6MT though it doesn't quite stick out far enough to cover the boot, and it doesn't seem like it fits the 5MT anyways. This is all awesome. Where are you thinking of moving the screen to and why? Just curious. Also funny you mention the desire to make a heat shield for the driver side CV boot. I was thinking the same thing the other day! Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread Steering Rack Rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 ... Was I not supposed to do that? I clearly missed a horror story lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I earned a hicksta badge when I was installing my motor: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/did-you-do-your-4th-gen-legacy-todayi-vol-10-278883.html?p=5974824#post5974824 On-topic: so not much work on the LGT during the winters for me, but I'm getting closer to a usable live tuning interface. Got logging working last weekend, so hopefully able to get the last bit of the UI done for live tuning this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 (edited) This is all awesome. Where are you thinking of moving the screen to and why? Just curious. Also funny you mention the desire to make a heat shield for the driver side CV boot. I was thinking the same thing the other day! I'm replacing the screen in the stock clock assembly. The main reason is I wanted a stock-looking display of the DCCD lock % output from my MapDCCD controller (which lives in the glovebox cubby, where I can't see its built in LEDs). I then decided I would like to see outside temp, IAT, and the time/date as well. I could get some of these from the Accessport but prefer not to leave it hooked up for regular driving. I already have the STI gauge pack and two AEM gauges flanking the instrument panel, so I was trying to find somewhere discrete to put these. Another member started a thread about doing something similar to display ethanol % from his flex fuel controller. You can follow that here: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ethanol-content-sensor-read-outi-284851.html It was also an opportunity to learn something new, which aside from helping my mental health will hopefully help me when I start looking for jobs again. I've been a stay-home parent since 2012 and was in negotiations for a job when COVID happened and pre-k/school were no longer an option for my kiddos. Edited February 5, 2021 by Underdog The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaylew Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 Well this is very cool, and I am very much interested to see how it goes. The info readout in an OE looking manor is awesome. Best of luck with figuring out everything outside of just car projects! Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread Steering Rack Rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 Tranny oil looks a bit dirty but nothing too bad. As already said, fill it in. My 5psd was fine when it came out at ~220k or so. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 Awesome project Underdog.Very interested in the outcome. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socalsleeper Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 Nice and shiny.... Question here - what will you use to apply sealant to all surfaces that need it such as oil pan, head halfs etc? I used caulk gun with Subaru OEM sealant tube but applying a nice and even bead of sealant required quite some effort. I saw a video of how Subaru assembles the engines and sure enough they use a robotic arm that quickly applies even amount of sealant but that's not realistic for a DIYers. Wondering of there is something in between, mostly interested in something that applies steady pressure of sealant coming out of the tube. Unless I'm over complicating things. When I was working in the dealerships we used Locktight 5900 and we used the slim tube with a calking gun contraption. It was a Mercedes special tool I got for around $30 from the parts counter. I have it hanging on my peg board, I can grab the P/N later if anyone is interested. Again this is what we used in the dealerships, and from what I understand is the same product used in the factory just smaller tubes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 Just put the heads on it yesterday... And plated all of the valve cover bolts so I can get those on. I want to spray the whole thing with clear coat since it's so clean! Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk Bringing the picture to the next page. Mine developed a shudder on left turn interstate bends. I'd be more interested in fixing it if I wasn't already planning an entire suspension rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tysparks81 Posted February 6, 2021 Share Posted February 6, 2021 After a month of back and forth with one of the worst shipping companies I finally received my Manley tuff rods, Outfront block has been payed for and shipped and I should get it on Tues. Ordered the last of the OEM parts I needed. As well as some stage 2 gsc cams, new killer b baffle, and the cylinder 4 cooling mod I need to source a new clutch, and decide on pistons. I feel like I have everything or very close to having it all, but realistically I'm probably a few weeks - a month away from getting it all assembled as a long block things are starting to get exciting now #LGTSTi is still cheaper and nicer then an equal year wrxsti Follow my 2007 Spec B. Build here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted February 6, 2021 Share Posted February 6, 2021 When I was working in the dealerships we used Locktight 5900 and we used the slim tube with a calking gun contraption. It was a Mercedes special tool I got for around $30 from the parts counter. I have it hanging on my peg board, I can grab the P/N later if anyone is interested. Again this is what we used in the dealerships, and from what I understand is the same product used in the factory just smaller tubes. I wonder if this is it, #112589002500. But everywhere I'm looking online sells it for over $100, I wonder if they gave techs a deal or something. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-mercedes-benz-parts/dispensing-gun/112586002500/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted February 6, 2021 Share Posted February 6, 2021 My project for the weekend... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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