Max Capacity Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 Got the quote back from a local shop for a stock rebuild, $9700. Was expecting alot but guess I wasn't ready for that. Where in CT are you located ? Click on the link in my sig to find out how to do it right the first time, the machine shop and trusted mechanic are in Somersville CT at rt190 and rt186 intersection. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 Ordered PN 10103AC870.... Picking it up tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 Got the quote back from a local shop for a stock rebuild, $9700. Was expecting alot but guess I wasn't ready for that. Sounds like a dealership type price. But I have seen outrageous qoutes on FB recently. If owners are paying $9-18k to rebuild 10yr old cars I need to hurry up and open a shop again. I was charging $6k for built motors installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohno06gt Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 Where in CT are you located ? Click on the link in my sig to find out how to do it right the first time, the machine shop and trusted mechanic are in Somersville CT at rt190 and rt186 intersection. Located in Colebrook now. I've read through your thread a few times. Amazing source of information and definitely the guide I'd follow. I'll have to try contacting that mechanic, it's not too far from here. Sounds like a dealership type price. But I have seen outrageous qoutes on FB recently. If owners are paying $9-18k to rebuild 10yr old cars I need to hurry up and open a shop again. I was charging $6k for built motors installed. I was expecting somewhere around $7500. Removal and installation on the quote was $3500. Should have seen my wife's jaw hit the floor when I pulled up that quote for a 15 year old car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 Located in Colebrook now. I've read through your thread a few times. Amazing source of information and definitely the guide I'd follow. I'll have to try contacting that mechanic, it's not too far from here. I was expecting somewhere around $7500. Removal and installation on the quote was $3500. Should have seen my wife's jaw hit the floor when I pulled up that quote for a 15 year old car. To be fair to the removal and install. Most r&i times I've seen book time for are 20+ hours and that's 23 at 150$ Coupled with a 2200$ short block. Yea it makes sense. But that's why you save so much doing your own labor. It's not hard but it's certainly not easy either. I spent many hours getting the trans separated and many more getting it back in. Second time I separated a subaru trans it took me ten minutes lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 Removal and installation on the quote was $3500. Guess I saved myself a bit of money just for removal/installation with 4 pulled engines on our cars... Even at $100/hr that's more than 4 man-days. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 To be fair to the removal and install. Most r&i times I've seen book time for are 20+ hours and that's 23 at 150$ Coupled with a 2200$ short block. Yea it makes sense. But that's why you save so much doing your own labor. It's not hard but it's certainly not easy either. I spent many hours getting the trans separated and many more getting it back in. Second time I separated a subaru trans it took me ten minutes lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk It is definitely scary first time around and definitely way easier 2nd,3rd and 4th times around In fact when I was parting out Mike's car(that would be 5th motor I pulled) I had the engine out in half a day. When you have all the tools and procedure to follow it's just time. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 The mechanics I know who work on subarus either love or hate the wrx. The ones that love it pull an engine in 4 hours while getting paid for 12. I mean there are shops around that make most of their income from swapping wrx blocks lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 <.< >.> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 The mechanics I know who work on subarus either love or hate the wrx. The ones that love it pull an engine in 4 hours while getting paid for 12. I mean there are shops around that make most of their income from swapping wrx blocks lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk There is a video on youtube where a guy pulled his wrx (or sti) engine in about 30 minutes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 There is a video on youtube where a guy pulled his wrx (or sti) engine in about 30 minutes! That's fast, typically draining fluids is at least about half of that. I can imagine doing it in about an hour or hour 15 if I had a lift, all the tools on the side and compressed air line. A lot of time for me was spent going back in the garage to get a tool, or turn the compressor (has finicky control that does not always turn off automatically...I know), or something to that kind. Everything was in the garage and I did all the work outside. Those half-minutes add up. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 Sounds like me except I run from the basement, to the driveway, to the living room (storage), my office (for vacation pics) and back again. Wish I had a garage. muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tysparks81 Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 (edited) I'm currently working on a tan/black upper interior swap for my wagon and was curious about potential part compatibility due to the rarity of legacy specific parts. I ordered a dome light from a 3rd generation WRX STI and, at least dimensionally, they seem to be identical parts. I haven't tried it in the car yet but figured this might be worth sharing. Has anyone tried using this part for a swap? The black one should be plug and play. You can also use the Map light from the same year car as well if you have a sunroof. If you don't the JDM version will work as well.(but you need to swap over your airbag warning light for either one you go with.) Edited January 20, 2021 by tysparks81 #LGTSTi is still cheaper and nicer then an equal year wrxsti Follow my 2007 Spec B. Build here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 Picked up my shorty. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tysparks81 Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 Picked up my shorty. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk Very nice what are the specs on your build? #LGTSTi is still cheaper and nicer then an equal year wrxsti Follow my 2007 Spec B. Build here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 Well that's a OEM block for a 04-07 Legacy GT PN 10103AC870 so the right combination for my 06 heads, other parts will be Killer B oil pickup, STI 11mm oil pump, Perrin TMIC, Invidia turbo back catted exhaust, VF52, tactrix 3-port boost solenoid, DW850 injectors and DW300C fuel pump, . Nothing crazy just another daily to hopefully last me a while since I'm redoing all of the suspension and bushings at the same time. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 Picked up my shorty. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk What's that black attachment on the crank? Asking for a friend 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 (edited) What's that black attachment on the crank? Asking for a friend That's where you wrap the pull cord around it to start it. If you're serious, all new short blocks come with a nitrided crank. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk Edited January 21, 2021 by B-BGTLimited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 That's where you wrap the pull cord around it to start it. If you're serious, all new short blocks come with a nitrided crank. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk You mentioned it being a stock SB and the color confused me as all cranks I dealt with this far on our cars were steel. That's interesting to know. But yeah just in case I'll have a pull cord on hand. That's what makes Subaru, a Subaru... 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 It is a stock short block, since 2011 Subaru has put the nitrided crank in all of their engines even if the original car did not come with it. I've also heard that all short blocks are built to EJ257 standards, even if the original car was a EJ255. When you go to buy a short block you have up to 3 choices now, and maybe more... 04-07 Block 10103AC870 08-16 Block 10103AC890 18-20 Block 10103AD020 I went with the 870 PN since that is supposed to be designed and setup to work with the B25 heads where the 08-16 is setup to work with the smaller CC'd D25 heads (if I have the number right) I think they have a deeper dish on the piston to accommodate that. I also know some have used the new Type RA block 18-20, but once again I believe those pistons are dished more to accept smaller CC'd heads which will further drop your static CR. Another interesting read for the EJ255 vs EJ257 as well... https://www.flatironstuning.com/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-an-ej255-and-an-ej257 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 On the discussion of new OEM Short blocks... Anyone have any input or recommendation on pulling the pistons and checking/opening up the stock ring gap since this will be pushing 19-20lbs of boost? Another safety net deal along with adding the Cylinder 4 cooling hose. Factory specs show .0079"-.0098" for top and .015"-.020" for second. So the question is, would something like .015" and .025" be beneficial? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 It is a stock short block, since 2011 Subaru has put the nitrided crank in all of their engines even if the original car did not come with it. I've also heard that all short blocks are built to EJ257 standards, even if the original car was a EJ255. When you go to buy a short block you have up to 3 choices now, and maybe more... 04-07 Block 10103AC870 08-16 Block 10103AC890 18-20 Block 10103AD020 I went with the 870 PN since that is supposed to be designed and setup to work with the B25 heads where the 08-16 is setup to work with the smaller CC'd D25 heads (if I have the number right) I think they have a deeper dish on the piston to accommodate that. I also know some have used the new Type RA block 18-20, but once again I believe those pistons are dished more to accept smaller CC'd heads which will further drop your static CR. Another interesting read for the EJ255 vs EJ257 as well... https://www.flatironstuning.com/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-an-ej255-and-an-ej257 Great info, thank you for posting that. with 237K on my original engine I know the YNANSB is in my future so this will come handy. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 On the discussion of new OEM Short blocks... Anyone have any input or recommendation on pulling the pistons and checking/opening up the stock ring gap since this will be pushing 19-20lbs of boost? Another safety net deal along with adding the Cylinder 4 cooling hose. Factory specs show .0079"-.0098" for top and .015"-.020" for second. So the question is, would something like .015" and .025" be beneficial? I think it was SBT who told me not to worry about that. I had already pulled one and my findings didn't warrant any adjustments, so I skipped doing the rest on his (I think) advice. I've been around 18psi for maybe 35k miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 (edited) I'll have to agree with not worrying about it. It's all in the tune. My ej257 has over 140,000 miles see's redline most everytime I drive it. It has none of the Subaru engine noises. When the trusted mechanic, he also has a subaru, did the timing belt at 100,000 he mentioned how quiet the engine was. I still listen to it now and then and its still quiet on start up and after running. Edited January 21, 2021 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 I cracked a ringland on #4 in a stock EJ257, running E85 at 21 psi on a 16G. Car was Cryotuned. Cryo and I talked and he suspects that things might have gotten a little hot when I was chasing down AFR instability while we were tuning, so not necessarily the motor's fault. Obvious signs of the intermediate ring butting, but not the top. When I replaced the pistons with Manleys, the recommended gaps came out to .0235 for standard B bores (mine measured very close to spec because the block only had 35k on it). That and adding the cylinder 4 cooling mod makes me fall asleep a bit easier at night Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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