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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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You're probably feeling a freshly bedded system and a different pedal feel rather than a shorting stopping distance outright. Maybe the effort required is less to stop as quickly as you desire. If you can engage abs you don't need bigger brakes to stop sooner, you need better tires. Correctly functioning stock lgt brakes can engage abs. I'm pretty sure shralp tracks his wagon with stock calipers. Not sure many are running at those limits for longer periods to truly get to a point where heat is killing braking performance of a correctly functioning oem system. 

But yeah the heat resistance and bling factors are legit. 

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10 minutes ago, BoozeRS05 said:

+1 Brembo calipers, absolutely love mine

There’s like an inch of pedal travel before my car is stopping aggressively, they look sooo good, easy install for the most part. 

This is good to hear, I did not cut corners and got all the top stuff I could find to make this plug and play for the shop that is going to install. Now my only thing is my wheels, Both Enkie ( 18x8 TS-10, and 17x8 TS-5) I am pretty sure they will fit.

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 New member posted for help with 09 LGT.  Said he installed catless dp and flashed Cobb stage 1 tune. Now gets po420 code. Obviously been partaking in 420 activites so I told him car was dorked and worthless. I offered $501.  Maybe my new LGT???  ROFL!!!

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On 3/16/2023 at 2:25 PM, xt2005bonbon said:

I am suffering from a mushy brake pedal feel on the 05. Recently bled the system (was mushy before bleeding too), and added the Grimmspeed bracket. No change in feel. Requires a lot of pedal travel to brake. The 06 does not behave like that. Assuming bleeding was done correctly, what could cause this?

When I had to change a caliper on my first lgt I had to engage the abs to be able to properly bleed the breaks.  Not sure if you opened your lines at all but if you did that could be the reason it is still mushy.  I also remembering that I had to bleed them quite a few times before the pedal started to feel firm.

#LGTSTi is still cheaper and nicer then an equal year wrxsti

Follow my 2007 Spec B. Build here

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31 minutes ago, tysparks81 said:

When I had to change a caliper on my first lgt I had to engage the abs to be able to properly bleed the breaks.  Not sure if you opened your lines at all but if you did that could be the reason it is still mushy.  I also remembering that I had to bleed them quite a few times before the pedal started to feel firm.

 

What do you mean by 'opening the lines' ? And how did you engage the abs?

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7 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said:

 

What do you mean by 'opening the lines' ? And how did you engage the abs?

I had replaced a stuck caliper, and as best I tried couldn't stop all of the air from getting in the system. 

Engaging the abs simply means finding a place to lock up your brakes which in turn kicks in your abs module which moves any air suck at the abs module out of the lines.  Probably bleed the system 6-8 times then made sure my abs kicked in, and then went and re-bleed the system again. 

#LGTSTi is still cheaper and nicer then an equal year wrxsti

Follow my 2007 Spec B. Build here

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Also had to replace my MAF today as it started acting weird yesterday and giving me AF readings all over the board.

While I was in there doing that decided to replace the cobb filter with a new one. 

#LGTSTi is still cheaper and nicer then an equal year wrxsti

Follow my 2007 Spec B. Build here

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On 2/21/2023 at 11:58 AM, m sprank said:

I tried to buy a 4th gen today.  But apparently I previously offended the owner so he does not want to sell to me.  Had a decent build lined up for it from a donor car too.  Would have been buying two 4th gens (from members) to make one.  Good thing I did not sell my 4Runner yesterday and end up car-less, as I had a dealership offer $8k+ over my loan pay off. 

if you still want a 4th gen i've got one that's been sitting for a while that's just waiting to walk away from me for a steal.  loaded with all sorts of goodies, though condition unknown.  still starts and purrs.  even have some BNIB parts.

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2 hours ago, snow05gtRI said:

if you still want a 4th gen i've got one that's been sitting for a while that's just waiting to walk away from me for a steal.  loaded with all sorts of goodies, though condition unknown.  still starts and purrs.  even have some BNIB parts.

Shoot me a PM.  

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Played around with some expanded metal for my grill.  Pealed off as much of that bubbling chrome trim as needed.  I will fill and smooth out that lip near the bottom before painting it all black.

The plan is to weld a couple thin brackets for the badge to mount on.  It should look like it's floating.  Badge will have the blue background wetsanded off and replaced with a metallic red.

PXL_20230326_210112122.jpg

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Started in on what is likely to be a less than fun job. R&R of the lower rad supports and associated braces.

Thank you rust belt. Kinda has to get done, and I think it will be fine to go back in with rivets and nutserts rather than having to do a million spot welds to put it all together.

This is thanksfully about the worst spot on the car aside from the rear drivers fender…

EE69776B-B93B-4556-8EDF-6B03EAFD187F.thumb.jpeg.5b291ef71808575fc4f3a929fab7e62a.jpeg8D8B3CAB-E8AA-4DD8-B345-8779963884CD.thumb.jpeg.0742bcfae064588789ec79edbda3f0d1.jpeg

Edited by KZJonny
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Replaced upstream O2/FA sensor to try and solve an issue, no dice.  But I don't feel bad replacing wear-items on an older car.

Also, replaced the headlight housings.  I noticed after sanding/polishing the originals a while ago that they were not only yellowing on the outside, but also failing on the inside.  Probably didn't help that the prior owner ran LEDs without dust caps for years.  So, I'm back to halogens (boooo) but have nice new housings (yaaay).

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My gas mileage has been in the crapper recently, so I did the front sensor and got an addtional mpg.  Granted, I only do short in town trips of under 3 miles max at a time.  A few weeks ago i got a short P2309 code, which I believe is throttle (body) actuator, but it clreared quickly.  It was cold humid icey morning and perhaps something damp was temporarily frozen.  Wondering if perhaps plugs is the next thing to check.  No codes have been thrown so kind of baffling.

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Finally got my rear brakes done, thankfully this time no sheared bolts. Finally got an electric impact, which makes a huuuuge difference breaking free 18 yr old rusted bolts. Had to turn it up on high for the drivers side to break away the bolts but it’s done. 😮💨

only thing now is I need the replacement caliper bolts to come in, lost one while I was cleaning them with my bench grinder. 
also, is there something wrong with this picture? Seems like the curved part should be in the curved portion of the casting but it seems like it’s off just enough to keep the bolts from engaging. Is this wrong? Cars gonna be parked anyway while I wait for new hardware. 

5CBEC666-AF0A-45F7-8E1C-BA667F29253F.jpeg

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1 minute ago, SoobyDoobyDoo said:

Finally got my rear brakes done, thankfully this time no sheared bolts. Finally got an electric impact, which makes a huuuuge difference breaking free 18 yr old rusted bolts. Had to turn it up on high for the drivers side to break away the bolts but it’s done. 😮💨

only thing now is I need the replacement caliper bolts to come in, lost one while I was cleaning them with my bench grinder. 
also, is there something wrong with this picture? Seems like the curved part should be in the curved portion of the casting but it seems like it’s off just enough to keep the bolts from engaging. Is this wrong? Cars gonna be parked anyway while I wait for new hardware. 

5CBEC666-AF0A-45F7-8E1C-BA667F29253F.jpeg

I’d caution against using a wire wheel to clean your hardware - it removes the protective coating and they will rust way more aggressively even with anti-seize. Better to replace the hardware with new OEM, especially for brakes/suspension, IMO. Trust me, I learned the hard way many years ago. 

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