SilentJ20

Nice! I'm always looking for ways to improve visibility (without blinding others). I'll be interested to see how these work out. Are Bi-xenon the ones with the shutter that opens for high beams?

Got my JDM engine bay covers installed to cover up the power steering and battery bits. Cleans up the engine bay a bit. Avo JDM was too rich for shipping, so I did the slow-boat from Japan instead. Took two months to get here. And after doing this I noticed the bright blue label on the radiator hose. Might see how easy that comes off...

I don't get on 512 often, but it sure could have been me. My car is debadged except for the "spec.B" (previous owner). Other than that and bigger pipes it's pretty much stock on the outside.

Just an update. It's been just over 8 months since my short block replacement in the spec.B. Oil and coolant remain in their respective confined areas, and no fluid losses. the learning view continues to be stellar--IAM = 1.0, absolutely no knock detected, and only minor temporary fuel corrections. The more I drive it the more I get attached to it. Looking at replacing the trans fluid eventually, and I know brakes are coming due. Still have yet to see another B in my area (Tacoma/Puyallup WA), but most Subaru guys I know respond with, "spec what??". haha.

This... This makes me sad... Haha. I LOVE my spec.B sedan and I don't care what you say! I made myself some different swag, though. There was no spec.B shirts, so I had this printed (and it works for wagons, too!):

Nooo, mine might be starting this process. I've got a white powdery coating. Odd thing is I daily drive it, but also garage it. So a little different. Western WA climate.

I kinda cheaped out on the a coil. One of my factory ones was operating fine, but part of the mounting lug for the bolt had broken. I went with Delphi brand. It was about a third of the price of NGK and Denso when I bought it. I figure if Delphi is an OEM provider for other brands, they probably know how to make a coil. About 5 thousand miles in and no issues.

This weekend I put some LED bulbs in the high beam slot and the fogs. The halogen high beams were pretty abysmal at throwing light down the road. I don't use them often, but when I do, I want them to THROW the light. Also put some in for the fogs, as with the halogens I couldn't even tell if they were illuminating anything. Brightness was just not there. To try and replicate the filament behavior as much as I could I got these Auxito (high beams, fogs are similar geometry) with a thin led support and minimal protrusions. Even though I will not be using high beams into oncoming traffic, and even fogs will be minimal, I still wanted to put forth as consistent and non-offensive beam pattern as possible. End result, highs are light cannons, fogs are useful.

Oof. That's fuel? That should stay inside the engine. Although, the cold does weird things to rubber parts. Likely some seals have aged and contracted enough to no longer do their job? Good news about those is they're all on the topside at least. On the plus side, the engine didn't sound bad. Did the oil light go off when you ran it like that (assuming that vid was after the oil change)?

Yikes. I hope so, too, having just done a short block for other reasons. The oil light is for pressure, right? So once it warms back up outside you could do the post-new-engine method of building pressure back. As in, pull the fuel pump fuse, crank a bit, rest, crank a bit, rest... a few times to see it the light goes off. No ignition = less damage risk. Have no idea if that's the best way, but it seems it couldn't hurt. Too bad the damn oil pump is buried in there. How often do those go bad? Can you throw a heat lamp or something under it to warm the oil pan?

Oh, that little CRATER of a ding? I got that from buying it used! haha. Probably should have fixed bodywork before wheels, buuuut... I didn't. I believe it's this one: LIP Well, thanks? I guess I'll take it... in my sedan with a 6-speed manual.

FINALLY got the new wheels/tires mounted. Sparco Assetto in matte bronze. 18x8 et48, front is perfectly flush with top of fender and mudflaps, rear is set in slightly (no spacers). Tires are Continental DWS06 in 215/45R18, so the same size as original, just on a wider tire. Slight stretch look, but within Conti's recommendations for the tire size. I'm happy. ps - I even got new tpms so the damn light is off!

If you want to carry anything over 50lbs up there, do NOT drill holes. A prev owner of my car did the drill method, used riv-nuts, and did a poor job preventing corrosion. The roof flexed when the rack was pushed front/back. Here's what I was left with: Dimpled and rusted. My short term fix was to clean up and prevent the corrosion as best I could, then siliconed some DIY painted fiberglass caps over the top until I can do a more permanent fix. BUT, since the roof and rear quarters are all one piece of continuous body, blending paint to match will never be perfect. It will never be as good as the original roof. Please don't drill holes...

Clarified my post. Sedan. Very aware of the wagon hatch problems, because that's 90% of the search results, haha.

2008 Sedan. Trying to track down why my rear defrost doesn't seem to be working. Fuse = good. Relay = good (swapped with horn to verify). Measured resistance across grid = 145ohms. Voltage across grid with defrost turned on = pulses between 6V-ish and zero?? On a 1-2 second pulse. That doesn't seem normal. I would have expected a solid 12V. Can anyone confirm? PM if desired, I don't want to clutter this thread up.