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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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17 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said:

I remember at one point I was adjusting my clutch pedal free play and engagement point, not knowing I was compensating for a loose TSK3 sleeve. It was such a frustrating process :mad:.

That's surprising, I had their sleeve kit on my 5MT without issues. How many miles did the kit have before you had issues?

Last night, I adjusted my parking brake. It required about 10-12 notches upwards before the rear wheels couldn't be moved. Backed it down 5 notches. Now the hand brake engages in 1-2 clicks. I'll need to adjust it at the handle next so it engages around 4-6 clicks.

After a quick test drive, I was being locked out of 4th and Reverse for some odd reason. Adjusted the pedal stop again and went for a drive. It's so much better and doesn't have harsh / sudden engagements like previously mentioned. 

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Not today but yesterday - did the EDM 2DIN conversion and installed EDM 2DIN setup in my car.

image.thumb.png.b84ee37e2a972b12c41df7f526da4556.png

Today - finished the DIY write-up for said EDM 2DIN and put it here:

 

 

Edited by SubOperator
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2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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2 hours ago, SubOperator said:

Not today but yesterday - did the EDM 2DIN conversion and installed EDM 2DIN setup in my car.

image.thumb.png.b84ee37e2a972b12c41df7f526da4556.png

Today - finished the DIY write-up for said EDM 2DIN and put it here:

 

 

That’s something I’d rather pay someone else to do. Well done!

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Let me tell you how much I love this car, drove it few days ago when it was nice out, and saw some fresh coolant on my clean garage floor 🥰. I just drove it. I will dig into it later. I think I need to drive it more so the gaskets expand and seal it better. letting it sit for weeks on a battery tender make her mad hehe.

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On 2/10/2023 at 9:57 AM, cheeseenlo said:

"I've had a pretty gnarly squeak after my SpecB aluminum control arms swap. All of the available poly bushings from Whiteline were installed so I would think this may have contributed to it. I will have to investigate greasing up the sways bars, I haven't touched those in years. "

 

Any luck sorting this out? Doing a similar swap to the front arms w/whiteline bushings. ( I do recall when I upgraded some new swaybars with kartboy end links the bars squeaked for a few weeks until I greased the sound away.) 

Thanks!

Edited by ChicagoSam
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55 minutes ago, NORULZleggy said:

Let me tell you how much I love this car, drove it few days ago when it was nice out, and saw some fresh coolant on my clean garage floor 🥰. I just drove it. I will dig into it later. I think I need to drive it more so the gaskets expand and seal it better. letting it sit for weeks on a battery tender make her mad hehe.

I absolutely hate coolant leaks. That stuff is a mess to clean up. The shop said they would replace any old / hard coolant hoses when the new block was being installed. They missed the one from the back of the turbo overflow reservoir. It's not too bad at the moment, but I can smell coolant after my drives. The worst part is it drips right over the cam position sensor. 

44 minutes ago, ChicagoSam said:

Any luck sorting this out? Doing a similar swap to the front arms w/whiteline bushings. ( I do recall when I upgraded some new swaybars with kartboy end links the bars squeaked for a few weeks until I greased the sound away.) 

Thanks!

I haven't yet but I think it's definitely coming from the rear. One of these days I need to re-grease all the bushings. I also have KB endlinks front and rear, stock front swaybar, AVO rear swaybar and AVO reinforcements brackets. The rear sway bar bushings haven't been greased for like 10 years at this point. 

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Swapping out my JDM (top) high beam reflectors for my painted USDM (bottom) high beam reflectors. Negligibly noticeable difference in the first photo, but that is exactly the point. 


A4E4CA8B-0172-44EC-9D05-F2A2EE212F4C.thumb.jpeg.94f26cb29c1c978e107e88c5cf23ddcf.jpeg

1D2AC496-F092-4E37-B6E5-43EF034E63A4.thumb.jpeg.0fecb8cd741b88d7818351cf30b35a08.jpeg


93887856-0413-4106-9246-55D45F36FD7D.thumb.jpeg.a3b8d3651aefe1f226a08002c30d0b81.jpeg

Oddly enough, my JDM headlights didn't come with slightly bluish hue on the reflector around the low beam that most units seem to. This works out in my favor bc I'd rather have a similar theme to my current USDM headlights, and there's no way I'd paint the high beam reflectors if I did have the bluish hue around the low beam as I imagine it would be too gaudy.

 

Anyone have questions or want measurements of anything while I'm in here? Probably have 30mins before I close up these USDM assemblies.

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MILKRUN  - Click Here

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Adventures in home Depot grill inserts. Right one is gutter guard, left is chicken wire that I originally used several years ago. Chicken wire was easy to bend to shape and didn't fall apart over 7-8 years. Both are metal, and the gutter guard is decidedly less agricultural despite the $4 price tag. Excited to see it all together. I wanted to go with the crown vic honeycomb, but now that those are a dying breed the price is shooting up. 

20230219_162047.jpg

Edited by seanyb505
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Installed JDM rain visors on my wagon.  It's raining out so no pics at the moment.  Had these for probably 2-3 years now, but never got around to installing them.  Easy install and pretty damn happy with them.

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Heya all, So i am doing my timing belt and i didn't realize it but after the pin was pulled from the tensioner, and i was turning the crankshaft to check the timing, that the tensioner hadn't moved as i had over lighted it , and so the timing belt moved about 4-5 teeth over. but the cam and crank sprocket's timing marks are still matching up in prefect alignment. My question is should i restart the process , or am i good to go?  F.Y.I> as soon as i loosened the bolt , the tensioner hydraulics engaged. Thanks

 

Edited by cajunAsian
forgot to post pics and then reliazed i havent tooken any of the work, other then just the pulled engine..
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I would recheck given how important timing is, also you probably won't look at it again in 7 years. In addition to timing marks, you can also count the teeth which is an added layer of security. I don't know whether it's possible to redo it with the tensioner on, do you have a vise to reset it?

timing.png

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I tried to buy a 4th gen today.  But apparently I previously offended the owner so he does not want to sell to me.  Had a decent build lined up for it from a donor car too.  Would have been buying two 4th gens (from members) to make one.  Good thing I did not sell my 4Runner yesterday and end up car-less, as I had a dealership offer $8k+ over my loan pay off. 

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When the car went up for sale in August 22 I jokingly offered $500 as I always do.  It worked once on this forum and I bought a 05 LGT 5MT wagon for $700. 

I felt the asking price was rather high and told the owner in all honesty that the car was worth maybe $4k in our area unless finding the "perfect" buyer. 

Fast forward to Feb 23 and the asking price is now $4k.  So I reached out. 

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I appreciate the offer.  LOL.  I know I come off "rough" sometimes.  Its not the first time I pissed somebody off.  I have never had much of a filter. 

To me a car is a commodity, no matter how much I love it.  Not everyone feels the same. 

It is a little bit of a bummer as with the age of myself, and the cars I dont see much more time in life where I would want to get back into the "Subie" game.  I waited 6 months for this cars price to drop as it is.  With my luck WV will start emissions testing and I wont want to play either way. 

Life goes on.  I will find something else to occupy my time this spring/summer/fall rather than build an 08 SpecB wagon.  Probably should be spending more time with the family anyhow.  See you at the meet!!!

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Attempted to install a Cobb double adjustable shifter...

Don't be an idiot like me and check the parts until 3 months after purchase. Granted, the car was in the shop for 2 months. I took advantage of the BF/CM deals so I bought (through IAG) the shifter and the package sat in the garage. 

Went to install it last night and found out the shifter was missing hardware. The top most allen head bolt and round nut was never installed when they assembled everything. Then I realized that the SpecB has a different style boot collar. I didn't know this until I took everything apart. Instead of it being fastened from the bottom, it's side mounted. My 6MT transmission has a JDM Forester/SpecB shifter assembly has their reverse lockout kit. I should've purchased the STi version of the shifter from the get go. I honestly thought all Subaru 6MTs had the same boot collar. 100% pure negligence on my end.

VENT - I reached out to Cobb for the hardware. Immediately, they told me to go to IAG for an return/exchange and they didn't have the hardware available. IAG said they won't honor the exchange since it's outside their exchange/return window and told me to sell it privately. They recommended I reach out to Cobb for hardware specifics so I could source it myself. I literally spend over $10k on an IAG 700 Long Block plus accessories. It's frustrating and I get it's a business but it probably doesn't cost them anything if they could accept my return/exchange for the STi shifter while they sourced the hardware themselves, then sell it on clearance or whatever. I might just pick up the Kartboy shifter now. I had one on the 5MT without issues. I just liked the novelty of a 'double adjustable' short shifter. SORRY FOR THE LONG POST!

If someone has a photo of the SpecB specific boot collar or has one for sale, I'd GREATLY appreciate it. 

Cobb STS 1.jpg

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26 minutes ago, cheeseenlo said:

Attempted to install a Cobb double adjustable shifter...

Don't be an idiot like me and check the parts until 3 months after purchase. Granted, the car was in the shop for 2 months. I took advantage of the BF/CM deals so I bought (through IAG) the shifter and the package sat in the garage. 

Went to install it last night and found out the shifter was missing hardware. The top most allen head bolt and round nut was never installed when they assembled everything. Then I realized that the SpecB has a different style boot collar. I didn't know this until I took everything apart. Instead of it being fastened from the bottom, it's side mounted. My 6MT transmission has a JDM Forester/SpecB shifter assembly has their reverse lockout kit. I should've purchased the STi version of the shifter from the get go. I honestly thought all Subaru 6MTs had the same boot collar. 100% pure negligence on my end.

VENT - I reached out to Cobb for the hardware. Immediately, they told me to go to IAG for an return/exchange and they didn't have the hardware available. IAG said they won't honor the exchange since it's outside their exchange/return window and told me to sell it privately. They recommended I reach out to Cobb for hardware specifics so I could source it myself. I literally spend over $10k on an IAG 700 Long Block plus accessories. It's frustrating and I get it's a business but it probably doesn't cost them anything if they could accept my return/exchange for the STi shifter while they sourced the hardware themselves, then sell it on clearance or whatever. I might just pick up the Kartboy shifter now. I had one on the 5MT without issues. I just liked the novelty of a 'double adjustable' short shifter. SORRY FOR THE LONG POST!

If someone has a photo of the SpecB specific boot collar or has one for sale, I'd GREATLY appreciate it. 

Cobb STS 1.jpg

I might have what you are looking for. This part comes with the Cobb? If so, I just need to go through my parts. I sheared one of the bolts for the adjustment and I was frustrated and bought another.

This guy?

7264DA73-AE83-4B6B-A7E0-01676B6008A5.jpeg

A9BF9107-358D-4E3F-97C2-AF3B49C2E06E.jpeg
 

I swapped the black collar for titanium parts from WC Lathewerks (https://www.lathewerks.com/)

Edited by WRX USA
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2 hours ago, WRX USA said:

I might have what you are looking for. This part comes with the Cobb? If so, I just need to go through my parts. I sheared one of the bolts for the adjustment and I was frustrated and bought another.

This guy?

7264DA73-AE83-4B6B-A7E0-01676B6008A5.jpeg

A9BF9107-358D-4E3F-97C2-AF3B49C2E06E.jpeg
 

I swapped the black collar for titanium parts from WC Lathewerks (https://www.lathewerks.com/)

@WRX USA It doesn't come with the Cobb shifter. The part you have is indeed what I need since it has the screw that's on the side vs. bottom for the STi specific 6MT lever. The Cobb 6MT STS I have is specific to the SpecB which has a cylindrical piece where this exact piece would bolt up to. It's insane how they had to make this part different from the STi 5MT. Do you remember what the PN was for this? 

Also since you got the WC Lathewerks Titanium collar, did you buy an STi shift lever to make it all work? I don't see a SpecB specific one.

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23 hours ago, m sprank said:

I tried to buy a 4th gen today.  But apparently I previously offended the owner so he does not want to sell to me.  Had a decent build lined up for it from a donor car too.  Would have been buying two 4th gens (from members) to make one.  Good thing I did not sell my 4Runner yesterday and end up car-less, as I had a dealership offer $8k+ over my loan pay off. 

M sprank, this is some of the dumbest stuff I have ever seen. Acting like these old cars are worth gold lololol. I know my 2006 is nothing in the eyes of others. I know better than to ask what the amount of money I put into it if I was to sell it. I mean lest be real, people are not out searching for 4th gens like I would, or you would. people really be scared of these cars. lol

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On 2/21/2023 at 6:25 AM, cajunAsian said:

Heya all, So i am doing my timing belt and i didn't realize it but after the pin was pulled from the tensioner, and i was turning the crankshaft to check the timing, that the tensioner hadn't moved as i had over lighted it , and so the timing belt moved about 4-5 teeth over. but the cam and crank sprocket's timing marks are still matching up in prefect alignment. My question is should i restart the process , or am i good to go?  F.Y.I> as soon as i loosened the bolt , the tensioner hydraulics engaged. Thanks

 

The belt marks have noting to do with timing of the engine. If your marks on the pulleys line up. The engine is in time. The belt changes contact position everytime it spins so it doesn't always wear in the same spot.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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7 minutes ago, NORULZleggy said:

M sprank, this is some of the dumbest stuff I have ever seen. Acting like these old cars are worth gold lololol. I know my 2006 is nothing in the eyes of others. I know better than to ask what the amount of money I put into it if I was to sell it. I mean lest be real, people are not out searching for 4th gens like I would, or you would. people really be scared of these cars. lol

I built a Supercharged Frontier for SEMA back in 2001.  I spent over $100k on the truck.  It had less than 30k miles on the clock when I sold it for $10k.  I sold two race quads that each had over $100k in them. $200k invested in 2 bikes. Sold each for $2500. $5k total.  Had 1 last race bike with over $100k in it and I GAVE IT TO MY TEAM MANAGER FOR FREE.  Because I knew he would keep it, love on it and use it. He just sent me pix of the bike in the Cali desert for New Years.  Brought a tear to my eye. 

Machines are commodities.  They are worrh what the market will bear.  Regardless of emotional/sentimental attachment. 

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