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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Picked these up for a steal yesterday, going to get the SS lines, pads, and bolts needed for my 06 LGT. I need help finding the mater thread on what is needed. I am taking them up to my shop to have them installed so I do not screw things up. I did look for threads about STI breaks install and found very old ones. just trying to make sure I get the correct Steel lines, and rotors. thanksĀ 

STI11.jpg

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33 minutes ago, NORULZleggy said:

Picked these up for a steal yesterday, going to get the SS lines, pads, and bolts needed for my 06 LGT. I need help finding the mater thread on what is needed. I am taking them up to my shop to have them installed so I do not screw things up. I did look for threads about STI breaks install and found very old ones. just trying to make sure I get the correct Steel lines, and rotors. thanksĀ 

STI11.jpg

@NORULZleggyThe fronts will be straightforward. I would get everything you need with Ken at KNS. If the seals and/or pistons aren't in the best shape I would get those changed out before installing. You need to be confident that your car will stop. Brembo seals only if you don't want any issues. I also swapped out all the bleeders to the SpeedBleeder which is a 1-way check valve. Also - make sure your wheels clear these. I have set of 18x8 +44 and I needed an 8mm spacer to clear the front calipers.Ā 

So, the bad news is I don't think there's an off the shelf solution for 08+ STI Brembos with a rotor and/or adapter bracket that will work with the Legacy GT. I'm sure people may have found a way but it's not going to be easy to do yourself.Ā 

I recently did the conversion with 04-07 Brembos and the only issue was the wheel fitment (which was my own fault). Because I also have the SpecB rear trailing arms, they needed some slight grinding to clear the KNS adapter bracket top fastener.Ā 

image.jpeg

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2 hours ago, cheeseenlo said:

@NORULZleggyThe fronts will be straightforward. I would get everything you need with Ken at KNS. If the seals and/or pistons aren't in the best shape I would get those changed out before installing. You need to be confident that your car will stop. Brembo seals only if you don't want any issues. I also swapped out all the bleeders to the SpeedBleeder which is a 1-way check valve. Also - make sure your wheels clear these. I have set of 18x8 +44 and I needed an 8mm spacer to clear the front calipers.Ā 

So, the bad news is I don't think there's an off the shelf solution for 08+ STI Brembos with a rotor and/or adapter bracket that will work with the Legacy GT. I'm sure people may have found a way but it's not going to be easy to do yourself.Ā 

I recently did the conversion with 04-07 Brembos and the only issue was the wheel fitment (which was my own fault). Because I also have the SpecB rear trailing arms, they needed some slight grinding to clear the KNS adapter bracket top fastener.Ā 

Ā 

Thanks, I know the fronts will work out, and I am a parts guy so I can get everything for these cars. I am getting the Kartboy V2 adapters for the rear. (Shop said I would need them). I have read that I might need bolts and so on. I might just call the guy at the shop and write it down and order what is needed. I have 2 sets of wheels (both x 8), They should fit. I will check that.

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Started on removing my ball joint.Ā  After soaking in atf/acetone and kroil for 2 weeks the pinch bolt came out in one piece.Ā  Looking at the threads it doesn't look like it penetrated much.Ā  Once I got a little movement I just kept working it back and forth until it came out.Ā  Tried a few different tricks to remove the ball joint from the knuckle but it only pulled out a few mm.Ā  Ordered the astro pneumatic puller so hopefully that does the trick.

Ā 

20221112_125739.jpg

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42 minutes ago, NORULZleggy said:

Thanks, I know the fronts will work out, and I am a parts guy so I can get everything for these cars. I am getting the Kartboy V2 adapters for the rear. (Shop said I would need them). I have read that I might need bolts and so on. I might just call the guy at the shop and write it down and order what is needed. I have 2 sets of wheels (both x 8), They should fit. I will check that.

I got 4x 901120103 for the swap. I forget if it was 100% required but also so I could have fresh/new hardware to work with. I also purchased the rebuild kit from Centric which includes the cross springs, pad retainer and retainer pin.

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Today I installed brembo front :), previously had wilwood superlite calipers installed. I can feel the improvement, however the braking sensation is not something from another world either (both with Hawks HPS brake pads).

I highly recommended the Wilwood calipers conversion, is an excellent cost/benefit alternative. But on trackdays the 316mm disc had a lot of heat and I was forced to install brembos

Also, install Cusco top hats for camber control for trackdays and their construction quality is very very good. My current tires were destroyed on their outer tread, in addition, I install friday a set of Michelin PS5 XL and I want their life to be longer than my current set.

How much camber do you use for trackdays?

444634bb-f5d2-45ee-9253-69d2d87806e1.jpg

a41d4411-c00c-4bfc-b937-7449ff69761f.jpg

549f4f04-b4d4-4c84-b26f-d110daf51d4d.jpg

WhatsApp Image 2022-11-15 at 17.10.07.jpeg

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On 11/14/2022 at 12:51 PM, NORULZleggy said:

Picked these up for a steal yesterday, going to get the SS lines, pads, and bolts needed for my 06 LGT. I need help finding the mater thread on what is needed. I am taking them up to my shop to have them installed so I do not screw things up. I did look for threads about STI breaks install and found very old ones. just trying to make sure I get the correct Steel lines, and rotors. thanksĀ 

STI11.jpg

Ā 

For the rear rotors you must take care to buy the right one, only two manufacturers make rotors suitable for the LGT handbrake specs (170mm versus 190mm handbrake for Impreza STI).

Brembo and DBA both have rotors for 170mm handbrake.

the amazon link of the suitable DBA rotors:

https://www.amazon.com/-/es/dp/B00722384E/?coliid=IXR2K9X46VEAF&colid=3RX0BH9LUO3M3&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Ā 

Edited by Ajerezcl
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Played around with mounting dual catch cans.Ā  These are 1L cans, so they are pretty HUGE.Ā  Ā This is what I came up with. The wiring harness connector is moved forward/in ~1/2" and the oem mounting bracket bolts to the new bracket.Ā  Ball valves are accessible from the bottom of the car.Ā  I was going to try to make a heat shield, but there isn't much room left.Ā  It's ready for wrinkle black powder coat.

I also urethaned in a piece of stainless mesh over the outside air intake.Ā  This should keep leaves/cigarette butts out of there.Ā :)

PXL_20221124_010102175.jpg

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14 hours ago, Ajerezcl said:

Ā 

For the rear rotors you must take care to buy the right one, only two manufacturers make rotors suitable for the LGT handbrake specs (170mm versus 190mm handbrake for Impreza STI).

Brembo and DBA both have rotors for 170mm handbrake.

the amazon link of the suitable DBA rotors:

https://www.amazon.com/-/es/dp/B00722384E/?coliid=IXR2K9X46VEAF&colid=3RX0BH9LUO3M3&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Ā 

So I would need the 170mm rotors in that link plus the adapter for rears? for the fronts it's just STI rotors and pads since it bolts up right? what brake lines did you run?

Edited by NORULZleggy
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10 hours ago, NORULZleggy said:

So I would need the 170mm rotors in that link plus the adapter for rears? for the fronts it's just STI rotors and pads since it bolts up right? what brake lines did you run?

You are right. In summary you need:

Rear:
- Caliper bracket adapter, Kartboy adapter it's ok.
- Disc rotors (5x100 and 170mm handbrake).
- Brake pads it's same for any rear 2pot brembo.

front:
- 326mm diameter 5x100 disc rotors (WRX STI 2004 is compatible). I have the Stoptech P/N 126.47019, it is 326mm in diameter and 5x100 bolts, you can also look for any front rotor compatible with a 2004 WRX STI.
- Brake pads it's same for any front 4pot brembo.

For pads i use Hawks HPS, good performance and low noise for my use (trackdays and daily car)

I have optional STI brake lines for LGT (STI P/N ST2655066000).
https://www.sti.jp/en/parts/legacyb4_bl/brake/ST2655066000/

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Didnā€™t realize there were STI stainless lines. Sexy.Ā 
Ā 

On topic, checking oil at a fill-up last week resulted in a new bugaboo: hood wouldnā€™t fully latch closed. It shut, and held for a necessary 70 mile roundtrip over a prominent area bridge to work this weekend but I thought I was due for a new latch at least and likely a new release cable. Looking up replacement how-toā€™s brought up a YT clip I figured Iā€™d share: rubbing alcohol. Sprayed it down thoroughly Ā w a mist and the lower clasp grabbed again. Just seized from age and wear. Cable releasing just fine as well. Saved a lot of time and frustration. If anyone faces similar, esp in cold climes, try this first. Worked like a charm for me.Ā 

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14 hours ago, Ajerezcl said:

You are right. In summary you need:

Rear:
- Caliper bracket adapter, Kartboy adapter it's ok.
- Disc rotors (5x100 and 170mm handbrake).
- Brake pads it's same for any rear 2pot brembo.

front:
- 326mm diameter 5x100 disc rotors (WRX STI 2004 is compatible). I have the Stoptech P/N 126.47019, it is 326mm in diameter and 5x100 bolts, you can also look for any front rotor compatible with a 2004 WRX STI.
- Brake pads it's same for any front 4pot brembo.

For pads i use Hawks HPS, good performance and low noise for my use (trackdays and daily car)

I have optional STI brake lines for LGT (STI P/N ST2655066000).
https://www.sti.jp/en/parts/legacyb4_bl/brake/ST2655066000/

Ok So doing research and spending time talking to the shop, here is what I have. Since I am a parts dealer, I and going buy my front parts first. The back is somewhat weird. I did not know the Outback has a massive rear rotor (5x100) and setup that can work.

You said the Kartboy is ok, is there a better one?

Front:

DBAĀ Slotted 4000 Series Rotors

Hawk Street 5.0 Front Brake Pad Brembo (I never track/Car gets driven on nice days)

KNSĀ Stainless Steel Brake Lines for STI Brembo Swap - Full Set

Amsoil Fluid

Rear:

Ā DBA 98-06 WRX Upgrade to STi Calipers w/ Standard 170mm

KNSĀ Stainless Steel Brake Lines

Hawk Street 5.0 Front Brake Pad Brembo

This will be all that is needed to put them on my 06 LGT

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1 hour ago, NORULZleggy said:
1 hour ago, NORULZleggy said:

Ok So doing research and spending time talking to the shop, here is what I have. Since I am a parts dealer, I and going buy my front parts first. The back is somewhat weird. I did not know the Outback has a massive rear rotor (5x100) and setup that can work.

You said the Kartboy is ok, is there a better one?

Front:

DBAĀ Slotted 4000 Series Rotors

Hawk Street 5.0 Front Brake Pad Brembo (I never track/Car gets driven on nice days)

KNSĀ Stainless Steel Brake Lines for STI Brembo Swap - Full Set

Amsoil Fluid

Rear:

Ā DBA 98-06 WRX Upgrade to STi Calipers w/ Standard 170mm

KNSĀ Stainless Steel Brake Lines

Hawk Street 5.0 Front Brake Pad Brembo

This will be all that is needed to put them on my 06 LGT

Dijiste que el Kartboy estĆ” bien, Āæhay uno mejor?

Frente:

Rotores serie 4000 ranurados DBA

Pastilla de freno delantera Hawk Street 5.0 Brembo (nunca hago seguimiento/el coche se conduce en dĆ­as agradables)

Latiguillos de freno de acero inoxidable KNS para STI Brembo Swap - Juego completo

Fluido Amsoil

Trasero:

Ā ActualizaciĆ³n de DBA 98-06 WRX a calibradores STi con 170 mm estĆ”ndar

LĆ­neas de freno de acero inoxidable KNS

Hawk Street 5.0 Pastilla Freno Delantero Brembo

Esto serĆ” todo lo que se necesita para ponerlos en mi 06 LGT

Kartboy work excellent. Actually any well-known brand that makes these adapters works fine, just avoid Chinese adapters. You have to make sure you use good quality bolts (I think kartboy includes them) and use a red loctite liquid lock for the bolts (I can't remember the code right now).

Remember not to apply excessive torque, Brembo calipers are known to require rework due to applying too much torque.

The DBA models you have in mind are very good, I used those same discs on my 316mm front setup with Wilwood calipers. Its resistance to temperature on trackdays was good, although on larger circuits with a lot of heat they showed a bit of cracks, if your use is not on circuits you should not worry.

If you want to save some money on rotors you can use the equivalent Brembo rotors, since you will not use your car on track the DBA 4000 may be overqualified for your use, although I have never used them but someone on the forum may have experience with them.

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17 hours ago, Kojak said:

Didnā€™t realize there were STI stainless lines. Sexy.Ā 
Ā 

On topic, checking oil at a fill-up last week resulted in a new bugaboo: hood wouldnā€™t fully latch closed. It shut, and held for a necessary 70 mile roundtrip over a prominent area bridge to work this weekend but I thought I was due for a new latch at least and likely a new release cable. Looking up replacement how-toā€™s brought up a YT clip I figured Iā€™d share: rubbing alcohol. Sprayed it down thoroughly Ā w a mist and the lower clasp grabbed again. Just seized from age and wear. Cable releasing just fine as well. Saved a lot of time and frustration. If anyone faces similar, esp in cold climes, try this first. Worked like a charm for me.Ā 

I'm so glad you've shared this! I've been experiencing this exact thing for the last few months now, and it bothers me. The car is getting up there in mileage and age now, and I'm experiencing things that come along with that such as the hood latching problem, worn exhaust hanger bushings, and a driveshaft. I'm dreading the day I need to replace the fuel tank. All of these are once-every-200K mi issues or every 10yrs. so once it's done, it's done. I still dread it.Ā 
Ā 

Anyone in the season of changing transmission/diff fluid? Motul products are hard to come by these days with product shortages. A 1G LGT owner/tech at PIA uses Eneos fluids and offered to pour me some. I've been on a Redline/Motul cocktail and want to switch to a single fluid type for this next flush that's way overdue. Any new recommendations? The fluid threads are a few years old now and I'm curious if any of y'all have sent of newer fluid types through Blackstone or found better fluids than the Motul (can't find any) or Extra S (can't find any of the old stuff).

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MILKRUNĀ  - Click Here

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45 minutes ago, Febreze Mee said:

I'm so glad you've shared this! I've been experiencing this exact thing for the last few months now, and it bothers me. The car is getting up there in mileage and age now, and I'm experiencing things that come along with that such as the hood latching problem, worn exhaust hanger bushings, and a driveshaft. I'm dreading the day I need to replace the fuel tank. All of these are once-every-200K mi issues or every 10yrs. so once it's done, it's done. I still dread it.Ā 
Ā 

Anyone in the season of changing transmission/diff fluid? Motul products are hard to come by these days with product shortages. A 1G LGT owner/tech at PIA uses Eneos fluids and offered to pour me some. I've been on a Redline/Motul cocktail and want to switch to a single fluid type for this next flush that's way overdue. Any new recommendations? The fluid threads are a few years old now and I'm curious if any of y'all have sent of newer fluid types through Blackstone or found better fluids than the Motul (can't find any) or Extra S (can't find any of the old stuff).

Maybe I'm not thoroughly attuned to my car and finding the perfect shift, but I refilled with whatever the new formula Mobil 75w90 full synthetic was that I could find, and my trans shifts well and never complains... I still have the DMFW, so I get a little of the shudder on some low speed/rpm gear shifts, but aside from that, very well behaved.

Dunno if fluids are better than they used to be when the cocktails were the hot ticket, or I just don't flog my car hard enough to notice.... My original plan had been to use the Mobil as just something to get me by until I had the time/cash to swap out to a Motul or Redline product, but it's just doing it's job really well, so why spend the money? For whatever reason, I do not use Mobil1 motor oil. It's probably fine now too, just too many stories about it not working out in our turbo EJ's.

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19 hours ago, Ajerezcl said:

You are right. In summary you need:

Rear:
- Caliper bracket adapter, Kartboy adapter it's ok.
- Disc rotors (5x100 and 170mm handbrake).
- Brake pads it's same for any rear 2pot brembo.

front:
- 326mm diameter 5x100 disc rotors (WRX STI 2004 is compatible). I have the Stoptech P/N 126.47019, it is 326mm in diameter and 5x100 bolts, you can also look for any front rotor compatible with a 2004 WRX STI.
- Brake pads it's same for any front 4pot brembo.

For pads i use Hawks HPS, good performance and low noise for my use (trackdays and daily car)

I have optional STI brake lines for LGT (STI P/N ST2655066000).
https://www.sti.jp/en/parts/legacyb4_bl/brake/ST2655066000/

Ā 

1 hour ago, Ajerezcl said:

Kartboy work excellent. Actually any well-known brand that makes these adapters works fine, just avoid Chinese adapters. You have to make sure you use good quality bolts (I think kartboy includes them) and use a red loctite liquid lock for the bolts (I can't remember the code right now).

Remember not to apply excessive torque, Brembo calipers are known to require rework due to applying too much torque.

The DBA models you have in mind are very good, I used those same discs on my 316mm front setup with Wilwood calipers. Its resistance to temperature on trackdays was good, although on larger circuits with a lot of heat they showed a bit of cracks, if your use is not on circuits you should not worry.

If you want to save some money on rotors you can use the equivalent Brembo rotors, since you will not use your car on track the DBA 4000 may be overqualified for your use, although I have never used them but someone on the forum may have experience with them.

Thanks for this. I am taking my time and buying things as I go. I have my list and am planning on having them installed in June. Just ordered the KNS line kit.Ā 

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You can also change the rear LGT ebrake shoes to the STi ebrake shoes, and then youā€™ll be able to run whatever 04 STi rear rotor you want, which is what I did instead of buying the expensive rotors. The total cost difference btw the two options is basically a wash in the end, but in the future youā€™ll have cheaper rotor options. Changing out the shoes is a bit of a PITA to be honest thoughĀ 

Be ready to grind away material on the rear to make the adapters fit, and I also had to add some washers bc the one set of adapter bolts were too long when fully threaded and made contact with the back of the rotors.

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16 hours ago, BoozeRS05 said:

You can also change the rear LGT ebrake shoes to the STi ebrake shoes, and then youā€™ll be able to run whatever 04 STi rear rotor you want, which is what I did instead of buying the expensive rotors. The total cost difference btw the two options is basically a wash in the end, but in the future youā€™ll have cheaper rotor options. Changing out the shoes is a bit of a PITA to be honest thoughĀ 

Be ready to grind away material on the rear to make the adapters fit, and I also had to add some washers bc the one set of adapter bolts were too long when fully threaded and made contact with the back of the rotors.

Oh I am past doing this myself. I save up my money, buy the pasts, and I pay the shop. they have already told me they can know it out. they do this all the time.Ā 

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19 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

I'm so glad you've shared this! I've been experiencing this exact thing for the last few months now, and it bothers me. The car is getting up there in mileage and age now, and I'm experiencing things that come along with that such as the hood latching problem, worn exhaust hanger bushings, and a driveshaft. I'm dreading the day I need to replace the fuel tank. All of these are once-every-200K mi issues or every 10yrs. so once it's done, it's done. I still dread it.Ā 
Ā 

Anyone in the season of changing transmission/diff fluid? Motul products are hard to come by these days with product shortages. A 1G LGT owner/tech at PIA uses Eneos fluids and offered to pour me some. I've been on a Redline/Motul cocktail and want to switch to a single fluid type for this next flush that's way overdue. Any new recommendations? The fluid threads are a few years old now and I'm curious if any of y'all have sent of newer fluid types through Blackstone or found better fluids than the Motul (can't find any) or Extra S (can't find any of the old stuff).

Based on my conversation with Dave @ Rallispec, Motul 75W-90 Gear Oil will likely not be available for a while or indefinitely. It's been over 6 months now without any production so it could be a fundamental issue with how this product is manufactured. They have substituted with Liqui Moly Hypoid Gear Oil (GL4/5) 75W-90Ā for now and found it to work very well. It appears to be readily available at this time.Ā 

With that said, when they did my 6MT swap they still had Motul fluids. Now that the weather is below 50F, I've noticed way more gear noise, front LSD especially and a slight grind going into 2nd / 3rd at low speeds. I never experienced this before with my original 5MT w/ Extra-S. Different gearboxes, but I felt that my 5MT shifted so much nicer even in cold weather. I'm wondering if the Liqui Moly gear oil would work better in cold climate conditions.Ā 

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Highways got salted last night, so I put away the GT for the season....

Nothing like the first highway onramp "pull" in the 2.5i (auto) to remind me that, yeah... all that work I did and money spent on the GT does make a difference.

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2 hours ago, cheeseenlo said:

Based on my conversation with Dave @ Rallispec, Motul 75W-90 Gear Oil will likely not be available for a while or indefinitely. It's been over 6 months now without any production so it could be a fundamental issue with how this product is manufactured. They have substituted with Liqui Moly Hypoid Gear Oil (GL4/5) 75W-90Ā for now and found it to work very well. It appears to be readily available at this time.Ā 

With that said, when they did my 6MT swap they still had Motul fluids. Now that the weather is below 50F, I've noticed way more gear noise, front LSD especially and a slight grind going into 2nd / 3rd at low speeds. I never experienced this before with my original 5MT w/ Extra-S. Different gearboxes, but I felt that my 5MT shifted so much nicer even in cold weather. I'm wondering if the Liqui Moly gear oil would work better in cold climate conditions.Ā 

Amsoil would work just fine. I can't tell you how much of this I have sold to people, and they have no problems all year or any climate. Look it up.

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My transmission has an unintentional cocktail of NAPA and Amsoil fluid (shift shaft seal slowly leaks). The Amsoil stuff made the transmission shift smoother for sure, but that could have been my transmission being two quarts low on oil when it was topped off šŸ™ƒ

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