creep_nu Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 good stuff! gl on the rest of the engine build up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humble Rumble Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 (edited) Installed the processed LED taillights that I picked up from yahoo.jp auctions. They look great, but are going to require some work. The brake lights are plug and play, and worked as they should with just a simple swap. The trunk lights require some tapping, so for now I just disconnected those and will do them in the future. These are LED boards, not bulb or strips, and unfortunately, as will most LED brakelights, the 10-12's don't like these, and I get flashing brake errors after about 10 or so minutes of driving persistently, common with LED brake lights. The 13-14 do not have this issue, the 10-12 do. So to run these, I will need to run inline resistors. I am not able to re-use my VLEDs resistors as-is with the way these are currently setup. The housings look fantastic, and the reverse and turn signals are perfectly and amply bright, but the brake light (and likely trunk light) output leaves something to be desired. They are roughly OEM brightness, definitely dimmer than the VLED. I am going to look into upgrading the boards or removing the boards and making the housings able to run bulbs (which would be great because I could run my VLEDs). The pattern is on the housing itself, so this is a possible option to retain the style. The turn signals are also apparently sequential capable with a module, so I may explore that later this year too. I have uninstalled them for the time just to be able to drive without errors, and will come back to this project later in the year. Video of lights installed: Video from the maker of them showing the sequential capability: Edited January 12, 2022 by Humble Rumble 2012 Legacy 3.6R Build Thread 5th Gen Legacy BM/BR Body Kit Compendium Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moral hazard Posted January 13, 2022 Share Posted January 13, 2022 I wish the part on the bootlid also lit up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humble Rumble Posted January 13, 2022 Share Posted January 13, 2022 I wish the part on the bootlid also lit up. It does, but connecting it requires tapping into wiring, which I am not experienced with, so I just mounted them for now. The brake lights were plug and play. 2012 Legacy 3.6R Build Thread 5th Gen Legacy BM/BR Body Kit Compendium Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2baru Posted January 13, 2022 Share Posted January 13, 2022 Sorry man you're starting to give me bad Kevin and Yoshi vibes with the asthetics, slow it down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted January 13, 2022 Share Posted January 13, 2022 It does, but connecting it requires tapping into wiring, which I am not experienced with, so I just mounted them for now. The brake lights were plug and play. Look into the hitch wiring harness it plugs inline with the rear lights and gives you turn signal, brake, and parking light leads. No cutting or splicing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amidroc Posted January 13, 2022 Share Posted January 13, 2022 haven't posted on here in a while. I haven't done much to the LGT over the years. I am finally getting around to installing the KONI inserts after a mishap with the stock suspension caused me to bend a rims. I had a heck of a time searching for a replacement. In addition to the koni install, I will swap the lower control arm because the rear pancake bushing is ripped. I had plans to pick up the parts today but when I was out getting coffee the clutch got stuck to the floor! I have a replacement on the way from the same parts counter. Any tips on bleeding the clutch slave cylinder alone? Last time I remember bleeding it was when I did the clutch damper delete with GTEASER back in 2015... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amidroc Posted January 19, 2022 Share Posted January 19, 2022 Replaced the the slave cylinder in the GT. Found the clutch fluid was very dirty and had some rubber in the bottom of the reservoir. The rubber hose from the hard line had a serious deformation at the crimp. I have a stainless steel hose on the way to replace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 (edited) Finally got around to installing a coolant temp sensor at the upper rad hose so I have coolant display on my multigauge. EDIT: It started leaking between the hose and adapter. Worm drive clamps suck! I got some constant tension spring clamps from the dealer and put them on. No more leaks! Edited January 20, 2022 by Scubaboo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creep_nu Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 woah that multigauge install is clean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 ^Thanks! It's a Reveltronics UTComp Pro, came across it searching for multigauges and their OLED display just matched the 5th gen perfectly, so I went with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creep_nu Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 oh solid, might have to look in to that...would be nice to see some actual useful information in the cockpit without having to use torque or something like that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted January 21, 2022 Share Posted January 21, 2022 oh solid, might have to look in to that...would be nice to see some actual useful information in the cockpit without having to use torque or something like that Yup, its a pretty high powered multi gauge system actually, you can use most any sender as long as you know the resistance curves, and you can rename the fields for it. So you can measure any pressure or temp in the car. It can do EGT's too. You can set high and low alerts for everything, and it can control stuff like fans based on data inputs. It's just a bit more involved setting up as you need to fab up a custom harness depending on the sensors you will be using and the functions you want. Then you have to program the control unit for those sensors and and functions, plus set up the display. But the manual and tech support is pretty good, and you do it with an app on a PC so it was not that hard. https://www.reveltronics.com/en/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amidroc Posted January 24, 2022 Share Posted January 24, 2022 (edited) Replaced my PCV valve and hose. It really helps to have the clic-r clamp tool. It was a pain to work in a such a confined space though. Astro 9406F Hose Clamp Clic-R Collar Pliers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MA0KBXE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_VC76N714515AT0RRHJ3P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 . Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk Edited January 24, 2022 by amidroc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dudemonster Posted January 31, 2022 Share Posted January 31, 2022 On Friday night I picked up the LGT from the dealership where I had it towed in December after the 6mt decided to origami itself. After a surprisingly reasonable wait for parts, they put humpty back together. While it was in I had them do the timing belt/tensioner/water pump since it’s coming up on 12 yrs old, even though I’m only halfway there, mileage wise. And of course, I was able to demonstrate my knack for idiocy. Drove it away without rowing all the gears, so once I got to a highway and went to shift into 5th, no dice. Same for 6th. Called unhappily back to dealership, which I know they love right when they’re about to close, and made arrangements to bring it back in the morning. As I was limping up to the cabin my subconscious shifted into 5th without intending to, and there it was. Apparently the right side shift stop had moved to starboard at some point during the initial kerfuffle (I’m guessing) so when I was consciously shifting and moving over to the stop, I passed the 5th and 6th gates. Left a mea culpa voice mail for my service guy and then today I installed the Perrin shift stop and adjusted the other stop. All back to normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loya1ty Posted February 1, 2022 Share Posted February 1, 2022 (edited) Watched this crack creep across my windshield during my morning commute. I think this is window #4 now, just on the legacy lol Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk Edited February 18, 2022 by Zee199969 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creep_nu Posted February 1, 2022 Share Posted February 1, 2022 oof that sucks. do you go and get OEM glass for replacement or just whatever whoever has? i've replaced my fair share of windshields and the aftermarket ones are just never as good as OE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loya1ty Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 Safelite replacement. I believe they classify it as OEM spec, although the one time it had the subaru logo on it so they might source legit ones if they can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorbreath Posted February 3, 2022 Share Posted February 3, 2022 I just installed the Perrin shifter bushing, when I had the clutch replaced a few months ago my mechanic mentioned that the existing bushing had disintegrated and he jerry-rigged a short term fix. Took 20 minutes, shifts are much better! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinesol Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 I finally got my car running again after just shy of 2 years downtime. So many upgrades and maintenance things done during that time, but sheesh it has been a long time. Bit more work before I can drive it, though. https://imgur.com/a/SKUwJPE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creep_nu Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 so...what happened Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinesol Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 (edited) so...what happened That's a complicated question, haha. I started with the timing belt in Feb 2020 then it snowballed to ARP head studs, head work including cleaning, new guides and seals, pressure test and several new valves, downpipe (GTeaser's prerun Nameless), Verticooler, Koyo rad, upgraded swaybar, DW fuel pump, cyl 4 cooling mod, cdv delete, HDSS clutch, Optima battery with ALT-S booster, TSK3, Hardrace front engine mount, upgraded fork and pivot, and upgraded rear diff mount. I also replaced a huge amount of OE stuff: rusty hardware, new coils, a brand new VF54 turbo, the alternator, the starter, fuel filter, o2 sensors and a bunch of other suspect stuff. Ultimately I am glad that I went overboard and decided to do the head studs because it uncovered something wrong in cylinder 3, which was the impetus for some of that other work. Pictures included of what I found when I opened it up. https://imgur.com/TAWNuJP https://imgur.com/7x80Hu5 All of that obviously wouldn't have taken 2 years, but just prior to starting I minorly wrecked the car so motivation was low. On top of that, my S2000 and my wife's 14 Outback 3.6R continue to work basically flawlessly so I didn't have much sense of urgency. I recently found replacement driver's side doors and fender, so when it is all back together it should be looking pretty good again. Edited February 8, 2022 by pinesol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creep_nu Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 i've heard of project creep, but dang that's serious. good stuff that you finally got it back together and running, hopefully it's on the road soon, gonna be a whole new car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2baru Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 Lol someone say something about project creep? ROFL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted February 17, 2022 Share Posted February 17, 2022 I want better direct air flow to my Setrab oil cooler. Started with the easiest part, the lower grill. Part of the front license plate was blocking direct air to the cooler so I moved the plate up a bit on the bumper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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