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motorbreath

I Donated Too
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  • Location
    Ontario
  • Car
    2010 LGT
  • Occupation
    Engineer

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  1. This is essentially what I am running, but with an open-source e-tune, and it is absolutely worth it, see the attached boost (MAP) curve using the stock turbo. The only drawbacks that I have experienced are that (i) its a little finicky to start in very cold weather (< -20C) and (ii) you really have to be careful of EGT when cruising on the highway.
  2. I only have experience with the Invidia cat, which is very spendy, https://www.invidia-exhausts.com.au/invidia-liberty-2010-down-pipe-j-pipe-with-high-fl but keep in mind that all of these aftermarket cats have, from what I understand, a more restrictive opening in the flange compared to the stock cat. The one that I have from Invidia causes a notable noise when the wastegate is wide open, so I think that you might need a tune if you use an aftermarket one. I could be wrong about this, hopefully people with more experience can jump in.
  3. I assume you don't live in the rust belt, I had to scrap my turbo because it was rust-welded to the stock cat! It was probably for the best, the turbo had over 100k on it and 10 hard years of salty winters.
  4. Are you able to log your upstream and downstream O2 sensor readings? It would be interesting to see them transition from a cold start to highway cruising. I could compare them to mine with an aftermarket cat and relatively new O2 sensors.
  5. They don't seem to sell them for the Subaru, but the front OEM knuckles aren't that bad.
  6. Does anyone have experience with the aftermarket front knuckles? They are dirt cheap on Rock Auto but I usually stay away with anything that starts with "Dor" and ends with "man". Apart from the extra cost of an alignment, seems like the way to go. Crazy how expensive the rears are, though, but I would definitely give the hub buster a shot for those!
  7. Unfortunately that was something I *should* have done when I replaced the turbo and exhaust manifold...not sure if it can be done without removing the manifold.
  8. I applied more Fluid Film to the underbody, removed all four wheel well covers and sprayed there as well, along with replacing a few broken clips. I checked the oil and topped it up, burning around a quart per 1k miles but then noticed something weird with the radiator. The coolant return line was backed-off the radiator quite a bit, I got pliers on the clamp and pushed it back on, but there is very little compression being applied from the clamp. I replaced both the supply and return hoses when I did the timing belt a few years ago. Used new clamps from Subaru, but the hoses were aftermarket (Gates), you can see that the engine side of the upper hose is clamped correctly, but the radiator side will not clamp any further I am wondering if I should replace the upper hose, seems to be a bit too thick for the stock clamp. Note that it looks like is it still captured by the indentation that keeps the clamp open when you first buy it, but prying the clamp over that does not result in any further compression. I don't want to fiddle with it too much, that radiator plastic is 14 years old...
  9. I replaced my springs at 105k and then years old, they were not in fantastic shape due to Canadian winters. I'm spraying the whole underbody with Fluid Film in the next week or so, once every couple of years, but I do the suspension components every season because of the salt where I live
  10. I forgot to mention, I kept the old rack with new (Mevotech) inner and outer tie rods. If anyone thinks they want to take a shot at replacing the steering rack seals (I think there are two on each side), the whole assembly is yours if you want it.
  11. Are there any recommendations for handling rust above the rear wheels where the bumper plastic meets the body? I hesitate to post pictures, don't want to traumatize anyone...but I want to get this area addressed now before it gets worse.
  12. 125k miles, but I did replace the transmission mount and pads for the cross member last year. The transmission mount I used was an aftermarket one that is solid.
  13. After verifying leaks from damaged seals on both sides of the rack, I ordered a new one along with engine mounts, already had the pitch stop but had not installed it yet. I just got the car back from the mechanic, they dropped the front subframe to install everything. This was an extremely expensive mistake, I am not even going to mention the cost, it is really painful and emotional topic for me, especially considering the cost to my pride. However, HOLY SH*T my original engine mounts must have been completely failed because the car drives sooooooo much better now with almost zero slop with a hard take-off or in reverse.
  14. OK, I know this might sound petty, but the first thing I would do is get 25mm spacers for the rear and 20mm for the front. I could not get over the rear track being noticeably shorter than the front, so this made a huge difference in the look of the car to me. Just two cents from a Baltimoron.
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