moral hazard

Sorry about that, here's a link that works. I found it interesting when considering what to do with my low mount turbo.

You'll notice that the banjo bolt on the oil feed line to your existing turbo has an orifice. That does need to be set correctly. I've compared banjo bolts between our VF54 and the low mount WRX MGT2259s, they have a different size orifice. The good news is, the latest G series of turbo from Garrett have the oil restrictor built into the turbo so you'd not need to worry in that case. You will need to transfer the oil pan over to the new turbo, unless you buy an aftermarket one or make a custom one. https://m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DzJchCTVvjgQ&ved=2ahUKEwjPqdKeuPf5AhWoR2wGHac0AoAQtwJ6BAgJEAI&usg=AOvVaw2vDThG0TdGoiBZrnIDeMW8

Hopefully the internet archive waybackmachine has a good portion of that content. Another forum I really enjoyed back in the day had closed down completely, notebookreview forum. From the Reddit post about it, a lot was being archived via waybackmachine but I have no idea how good that works or what search engine to use for key words etc. Other than having the right url bookmarked.

Ahh right, I guess we aren't as lucky as the gen4 that get the aluminium arms from Mevotech?

Anyone have a current link for Mevotech arms that fit the genv?

I did mine recently. Rather than paying for a restore kit, I just got different grits of sandpaper and went at it. Then some polish, followed by some 2k clear coat. Real PITA to do, but the yellow is completely gone.

Why not just disable the code, no harm in that.

Recently replaced the turbine speed sensor 2, but now throwing solenoid A and B errors. Thinking of getting a used 5Eat from a tribeca as it appears very similar and pull out the valve body to swap into my car. But I'd also like to know if required, could I pull off the front of the trans that connects to the bell housing and swap it from the one in my 5th Gen, meaning I could mount up the trans entirely into my car? Anyone have insights into doing that sort of thing?

You don't have anything connected to the obd port by chance? I had a Bluetooth scanner that would slowly drain the battery.

The sensor install was not fun for me, I drained atf and pulled the valve body 3 times. So the colours of the original wiring didn't match the service manual or the new sensor. Had no idea what was plus minus or signal. In the end I worked out that plus (orange/faded red) and minus (light green) went to the 6 pin red connector and the signal (purple) went to the 10 pin black connector. Was able to read turbine speed sensor 2 via romraider logger and my tactrix able. Also ended up forgetting to replace one nut on the valve body the first time and left a black bolt out the second time. Final attempt, no missing fasteners and a driveable car (for who knows how long). If I could find a new valve body for a decent price, would have preferred that option from the start.

How many inch-pounds or nm does it take to bolt the VB back into one piece? I'm guessing mostly 8nm?

I wish the part on the bootlid also lit up.

Finally decided to fix the p1710 code on my 5eat, ordered the sensor and filter: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/284323471730 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/274548913479 Decided to pull the valve body and check if a generic hall effect sensor would fit, the one I ordered is too long for this location. So everything is covered for now, waiting on delivery. To pull the valve body, had to take out all the black bolts and the two longer bolts under the filter. Hoping I remember that for the reassembly.

After driving around for a while, I'm thinking of going external wstegates and a more standard flange, perhaps to upgrade to a gtx30 or 35 sized turbo later. I'm liking this killerb inspired header that seems to also have the required holes in the flange for an EJ, by PLM: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/164890877403 And this FA20 flange to Vband adapter: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/144105089199 Might be an Xmas present to myself. Would need to sort out some suitable external WG options (likely teal MVS style 38mm) and think about a V band 90 degree J pipe. 2011 sti rom testing has not progressed, still on the LGT tune for now. Need to find time for some Dev/reverse engineering work.

Is anyone aware of similar mounts offered for sale anywhere else at this stage?

Would this process be the same for the 5EAT (from Australia)? Trying to decide whether I bother swapping over the trans from a wrecker that has one with half the mileage for cheap.

You can add all of these people to the list including myself: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/add-me-gt-head-gasket-failure-list-255946.html

Surprised you didn't go for the fb20 out of an impreza, where I am located these sell for the same price as the sohc ej25.

First check with Subaru if your car is covered under a CVT warranty extension, which a lot of them would be if under 10 years old, you don't want to pay money if it's covered, example: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/should-go-used-rebuilt-cvt-286825.html

I'd email Subaru head office anyway and ask for the reimbursement of $300 at the minimum.

Isn't there some Subaru factory warranty extension for the CVT: http://www.forbes.com/sites/jensen/2017/07/07/facing-complaints-subaru-offers-extended-warranties-on-1-5-million-vehicles/amp/ I would have thought if it's factory warranty, you'd be getting a NEW CVT at no cost.

Keen to see where you go from here, I also have a block sitting with a shot bearing. What can be done if the crank is not chewed up?

Edit: disregard, thought the engine was FB25 and realised that 2012 was still ej25.

I can email you the dump from an Australian version of that cluster, appearance is the same.

I did mine with a screw and vice grips like this : I didn't even pre drill, just went in with a sharp screw. Careful not to go too deep, I made a small mark because by screw bottomed out, didn't give me any trouble though.