amidroc

It may be worth checking your clutch fluid and see if it's dirty. I live in sunny california and had issues with my clutch getting into gear. I found that the fluid was dirty and there was a defect in the slave cylinder hose. https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6054858&postcount=2633

Replaced my PCV valve and hose. It really helps to have the clic-r clamp tool. It was a pain to work in a such a confined space though. Astro 9406F Hose Clamp Clic-R Collar Pliers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MA0KBXE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_VC76N714515AT0RRHJ3P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 . Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

Replaced the the slave cylinder in the GT. Found the clutch fluid was very dirty and had some rubber in the bottom of the reservoir. The rubber hose from the hard line had a serious deformation at the crimp. I have a stainless steel hose on the way to replace.

haven't posted on here in a while. I haven't done much to the LGT over the years. I am finally getting around to installing the KONI inserts after a mishap with the stock suspension caused me to bend a rims. I had a heck of a time searching for a replacement. In addition to the koni install, I will swap the lower control arm because the rear pancake bushing is ripped. I had plans to pick up the parts today but when I was out getting coffee the clutch got stuck to the floor! I have a replacement on the way from the same parts counter. Any tips on bleeding the clutch slave cylinder alone? Last time I remember bleeding it was when I did the clutch damper delete with GTEASER back in 2015...

June 2018 - 109K the HG in my 2010 LGT failed. Car overheated, idiot lights flashed. repair was successful with ARP bolts.

We got our 2.5i back yesterday. Transmission feels a lot smoother and no longer noisy. The SW showed us the cost for the repair and it was just shy of 7K. Plus the $800 for the rental. They made this a painless experience! Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I called the dealer yesterday and they are still waiting on the parts to arrive. Dealer mentioned they are handling another customer with a similar issue. Parts for their's were order at the end of June and the part just arrived recently. So it will be about a month. We are in a Hyundai SantaFe Sport SUV rental for the duration. SWMBO is starting to appreciate sitting up higher. This warranty work may end up costing me after all!!!

They didnt ask me to recreate the problem. When i put it in manual mode i used the paddle shifters. I got up to 4th gear using the shift up paddle. When coming to a stop I did NOT use the shift down paddle. I let the CVT handle it. When I got to the stop line i hit the brakes more firmly an then it stalled and died. Hope this helps. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I was in a residential area, so around those speeds when slowing down. I have experienced the issue less frequently while in automatic mode as well. I was just able to duplicate them in manual mode. Also this is my wife's Legacy. I have a LGT....I do get the sports car feel!

I believe they used the TSB as leverage to get the CVT repaired. My subaru dealer called back and said it was specifically the torque converter and that the repair will be covered, no charge to me. Repair will be covered under the warranty not the TSB. They should have it done by Friday. I was able to recreate the stalling in my car. I kinda wish I got video of it. But the way I was able to get it to stall was: Let me just preface this by saying, this worked on my Legacy. It may or may not work for yours. Please be extremely careful trying this. I won't be responsible for damage to you, your legacy or any other property. Find a place where you can try this. Open parking lot or something. Just be careful. Okay.... Put the car in drive and drive normally for a about 15-20 sec. Then put it in manual mode. Continue to drive normally using the paddle shifter. Find a stop sign. Preferably one where there's not a lot of traffic. Coming up to a stop sign don't use the paddle shifters to lower the gears. As you apply the brake to slow down, when you get close to the stop sign press more firmly on the brake, almost like a short stop. When I did this the car shuddered terribly, stalled then died. I had to put it in park then restart the car. Good Luck.

I just dropped my 2.5i na to the dealer. I had to make them aware of the TSB. The service advisor was actually surprised by it. He wasn't aware. Looks like they are going to take care of me and my Legacy. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Agreed!! see page 3 of this article: https://www.forbes.com/sites/jensen/2017/07/07/facing-complaints-subaru-offers-extended-warranties-on-1-5-million-vehicles/3/#504ef9a66492 I would make sure Subaru Canada is included in this campaign.

I just called to have my 2010 2.5i CVT checked out. It has about 62K miles and the original CVT. When coming to an abrupt stop the Legacy stalls and dies. I suspect this has to do with the TSB 16-107-17. For mine the torque converter specifically TSB 16-90-13R I attached a copy of the "locked" TSB from STIS. 151725-151724-16-107-17062217.pdf

I also need get off my butt an install mine. should the front piston stay compressed after being pushed down? http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/amidroc/2010%20Legacy%20GT%20Premium/th_20160328_220250_zpsce9bwuqc.mp4

Ahh..my bad. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

When I initially installed mine the bumper was off and all the mounting points were on the bumper. https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-P3tx5p3mQoN2RUeXpMazVEa0k/edit

Eibach still has the springs for $93 http://eibach.com/america/en/performance-suspension/closeout scroll down to the bottom of that page. you have to call to place the order because if you purchase online you pay the full price.

Update. The TOB was the culprit and it was replaced. I am still not doing any launches (a failed one got me in this situation in the first place.) It was replaced with an OEM and I am happy with it. It holds my custom eTune just fine. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

No.

just a day after the clutch is installed I am hearing and feeling a grinding noise going from 1st to 2nd. 2nd to 3rd. kinda from 3rd to 4th and hardly noticeable after that. For me it only happens when the pedal is pressed all that way down. Which is currently how I and changing gears. My left leg muscle memory is still used to the heavy resistance from the old clutch. The new one it's very light. I called the shop and tried to explain it the best I could over the phone. Best thing was to bring it back. One of the mechanics test drove it and was able to duplicate the anomaly quite easily. He diagnosed it even further that the grinding only happens around a certain RPM. We brought it back to the shop and had the owner take a listen. The two of us stood outside and had a listen...Couldn't hear a thing. The owner got in and he too was able to duplicate the issue. I still couldn't make out any grinding from outside the car. He shut off the car, closed the hood and we went back inside. He scheduled me for a follow up appointment fro Jan 3, 2017 to have another look. They suspect the TOB is the culprit but won't know till the get it on the lift. Anyone else experience something like this shortly after a clutch replacement?

New clutch is waaaayyyyyyy easier now. Parts installed FJK1001 kit 12342AA090 flywheel Motul Motylgear 75W-90 gear oil. Have to relearn how to drive this clutch..Stalled it pulling away from FW MOTORSPORTS.... LOL Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

As much as I would like to try out the Southbend. The current life expectancy for my clutch is very short. Driving on the freeway during rush hour today was downright scary. I felt like I had no control. I am afraid to do any heavy acceleration in any gear. What made it worse was my teenager was in the car with me. I am taking the recommendation of my local independent subaru shop. I am going to stick with the OEM and replace the flywheel. The cost is also an issue. I can replace the OEM clutch, SMFW and TOB for about the same price as the Southbend clutch i was interested in. This is my DD. I need the clutch as effortless as possible. I am hopeful the clutch pedal will be as easy as my base model 2015 2.5i Legacy was. Thanks all for your input.

I was told that the fingers get hardend over time and that's what causes the heavy clutch feel. As I mentioned before, the previous owner lived in San Francisco. So if they happened to ride the clutch or use it to hold it in place while on a hill could have caused the hardening and premature failure. :spin:

exactly. Here's what I wanted to do: replace clutch and flywheel while the flywheel is off possibly replace the rear main seal install the TSK3 on the transmission housing I was told that the OEM clutch and flywheel should be fine since I didn't have any major performance mods. Just a Stage 1 tune. the rear main seal probably didn't need to be replaced. But if they inspected it and it needed they would just charge for the part. didnt recomment the TSK since the transmission case isn't damaged. they would install if i really wanted to. But they advise the clutch feel would be different and not OEM. That was the jist of the conversation. Since they work on Subaru's all day, I wouldn't have a reason not to take their advice. But I have you all and I may check with a different shop.

I just got off the phone with an independent Subaru shop here in NorCal and they recommend using the OEM clutch and flywheel. And didn't recommend the TSK3 kit. Also I couldn't bring the parts to them. The would have to order it all.