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What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4


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That is cool you made them functional. It would probably be better suited for brake cooling though.

 

 

That will be down the road. It’s not “functional” as it could be as there is no ducting behind directing airflow back and upwards. Some heavy bumper mods will likely be essential for the IC anyways.

 

 

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Someone here did brake ducts there with pics and a diy post. The way he did it would work for brakes or for the air box. I would have copied that except I have the aero package that covers that area.

 

EDIT: This one. Pics arent showing anymore, too bad, they were pretty informative.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/front-brake-cooling-duct-223548.html

Edited by Scubaboo
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Someone here did brake ducts there with pics and a diy post. The way he did it would work for brakes or for the air box. I would have copied that except I have the aero package that covers that area.

 

EDIT: This one. Pics arent showing anymore, too bad, they were pretty informative.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/front-brake-cooling-duct-223548.html

 

 

Thank you very much! I can’t see photos but I’ll read through

 

The concept is very good with the sole exception that I am going to need most of that space in my future so any brake ducts will be coming from the belly pan. The thread you sent will be a good reference for my execution of that.

 

My particular case isn’t totally unique. It is slightly different from the norm; however.

 

I also think that for my brake plans, these vents are not a sufficient “intake” and so I will be doing naca ducts in several places to have efficient airflow to/ from components that need cooling.

 

 

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I ordered the Q300 catback and catted j-pipe from Invidia end of last year, I had to wait roughly a month before they shipped, but they arrived without issue.

 

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I don't think they are coming back. Much of the 5th Gen GT parts once they run out, the manufacturers never make another batch. The production is so low that many manufacturers have been sitting on the inventory for 8-10 years.
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No prob! It's too bad the pics are NLA, they used to be there even past the photobucket debacle.

 

Anyway as I recall, the OP split the plastic ducting hose and spread the halves to cover the opening, glued it in place, and used silicone sealant to seal the gaps. You would probably get the gist from his description since you've seen the rears of your bezels.

 

You can then route the hose to the wheel well or up to the air box.

 

Rooducts can also make control arm mounted brake cooling ducts for our cars. Not as effective as one with hoses to the backing plate though.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Cars in the air right now having a valve cover/ the time chain cover resealed. New coils and plugs are going in while it’s up there to chase down a misfire.

 

This isn’t “on the car” but it is for the car

 

3c7e077c62d84b80403e9d5f9ab1e08b.jpg

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I removed the chrome window trim , sanded and painted black. I used a self etching primer from duplicolor and base coat from duplicoloe as well , but the paint rubs off too easily :/. I think it might be because it was too humid when i painted outside . I’m planning to repaint again this weekend. Has anyone else done this? Will an adhesion promoter before the self etching primer

Help ?

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I removed the chrome window trim , sanded and painted black. I used a self etching primer from duplicolor and base coat from duplicoloe as well , but the paint rubs off too easily :/. I think it might be because it was too humid when i painted outside . I’m planning to repaint again this weekend. Has anyone else done this? Will an adhesion promoter before the self etching primer

Help ?

I painted the chrome on my grille. Came out awful, rubbed off...gave up and had a paint shop do it. Still holding strong a year later. For the window trim I spent 10 hours with vinyl and knifeless tape blacking it out. Looks great...one section came loose and I redid it, but after a year it's held up to NY winters and touchless car washes.
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I had good luck with Plastidip on the chrome surround of BMW kidney grilles. I tried it because I wanted to be able to go back to stock if I wanted to. I just wiped it down with alcohol before painting.

 

If I decide to black out the chrome on my LGT I'd go with this first.

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Hit a 4x4 chuck of wood on I66 this morning. Would need new tires next year anyway but still boo. The wheel look okay to y'all? Def a divot but doesn't look tire bead infringing.ecb88fe3714842962750099cd8312a79.jpg

 

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I had the same thing happen on a trip to Boise a few years ago....hit a piece of curb stone that was laying by a parking lot entrance......going slowly but pretty much the same damage. Tire was destroyed and rim was much like yours....ever so slightly out of round at the outer bead but not where the tire seats against the rim. You can get it straightened pretty easily but it probably makes no difference as it is. Mine was one of my OZ Crono rims....after we checked it with the tire off I decided to just leave it as is.........makes no difference to balance or driving. Have your alignment checked though.
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I had the same thing happen on a trip to Boise a few years ago....hit a piece of curb stone that was laying by a parking lot entrance......going slowly but pretty much the same damage. Tire was destroyed and rim was much like yours....ever so slightly out of round at the outer bead but not where the tire seats against the rim. You can get it straightened pretty easily but it probably makes no difference as it is. Mine was one of my OZ Crono rims....after we checked it with the tire off I decided to just leave it as is.........makes no difference to balance or driving. Have your alignment checked though.

 

 

This[emoji3516]Only because the lip is bent in the inside can it be fixed . Lots of mobile wheel repair. Dent wizard is one company that has an international presence although their focus is US. Get a tire balance and an alignment check to make sure nothing is out of wack.

 

Usually when one component absorbs impact minimally like that, there can be more components that either absorbed the impact. Best to do a check on those things and then be aware of any vibrations above 45 mph

 

 

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Thanks. I figured I'd need alignment/balance with new set anyway, but a bummer I need to do it again already because it was just done a few weeks ago with the CV axle, tie rod, ball joint, wheel hub, and knuckle replacement lol with that said, hoping nothing got too wrecked as it was all just replaced. everything short of the calipers at least. Considering upgrading next year so was considering avoiding the new tires and 180k service.. looks like I might just need to go in on the car this fall and eat the cost at trade in for peace of mind now (and the next owner for good karma).
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It got inspected from Subaru, Now it's in the body shop then after it's going into the detail shop.

 

It will need the following

- Front rotors/pads

- Brake fluid was low but need to be change

- Lower control arm bushing

- Oil change

- Air Filter

- Cabin Filter

 

Then after that I part ways with the Legacy. I'm donating it to my father in-law because I bought a replacement vehicle. That remind me I need to return the rental vehicle.

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It got inspected from Subaru, Now it's in the body shop then after it's going into the detail shop.

 

It will need the following

- Front rotors/pads

- Brake fluid was low but need to be change

- Lower control arm bushing

- Oil change

- Air Filter

- Cabin Filter

 

Then after that I part ways with the Legacy. I'm donating it to my father in-law because I bought a replacement vehicle. That remind me I need to return the rental vehicle.

 

 

Sad to hear but only slightly. Its nice you can keep it in your family. Cheers

 

 

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Picked up the Legacy from the dealer (inspection, body work and detailing). The chemicals they use for the interior and ducts is so strong I had to wear my mask and drive with the window down. I’m taking it to my friend shop on the weekend.

 

Quick question to replace the rear tag bulbs do I need to remove the trunk lid liner to get to the bulbs?

Edited by amusa
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Quick question to replace the rear tag bulbs do I need to remove the trunk lid liner to get to the bulbs?

 

It's been a couple of years since I put in LEDs, but if I recall you do need to pop the liner. I also think I was cursing at myself because I did by removing the fewest amount of fasteners as possible and had difficulties reaching my hand up to insert the bulb into the seating the way its angled.

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Got the new tires fitted. And kicked myself afterwards because I forgot to send the new tpms ive had in my possession for a year since the current batteries are dead lol tires look meatier. I've gone with Pirellis the last 2 times and they've been great, but these Michelin cross climates had great tirerack praise. Ride is softer and the treads def look more aggressive.

 

On another note, my window "rubber" (felt?) weather seal is flaking. Any replacement options for this? The rubber itself isn't dry rotted or stiff it seems, but there is this attached strip you can kinda see in my photo that is running out of life. 07dfa74662dcdc1cca16b3a853472625.jpgd826cdf2113175308938bfb239e4ff6b.jpg

 

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Started my weekend project of a bit of vinyl wrap and much need TLC to the GT. Pulled the bumper and removed the grill and chrome trim from it. Going to wrap the wing and use some type of forever black treatment for the mesh and a few other exposed black surfaces.

 

Also cleaning up the headlights, lubing the clutch fork pivot and hopefully figuring out why the drivers side puddle lights are not working.

 

616c6c8dbf3a22cf8246441ebfc5708d.jpg

 

 

Mock-up to see what it will look like with a black wing.

ecc2d93ee484317e69116268447035b1.jpg

 

 

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Air and Cabin Filter, Tag bulbs and I forgot to pull out the trunk Emergency release handle. It took me 10min to figure out why the trunk was not latching. Easy user error on my part, lol.

 

It will be in the shop getting front rotors, pads, fresh brake fluid and lower control arms

Edited by amusa
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Not sure the CAI was a good idea. Definitely lost low end hp. Rpms seem to get stuck sometimes when I'm spirited in my driving. 0-60 in hot weather is so sluggish.

 

As far as the Nameless ABE, I love the sound. Not too loud and has a sweet hum when in a tunnel. Drivers side muffler is a little off center so need to get on fixing that.

 

After finding out the Mustang fogs are a direct fit, I was quick to change out those ugly stock fogs.

 

Next I have to change my front bumper cover as it has damage to it. I've been looking for a F3T cover in good shape but haven't had any luck. All junkyards have everything else in F3T except my bumper cover!

 

I also put on Stop Tech rotors and CarboTech 1521 pads all around. Great performance!

 

Lastly, I changed my driver's side front door due to the fact that at highway speeds, you could hear the sound of air penetrating the inside of the car. Most likely the previous owner had to slimmy the car to get it unlocked, which bent the outer plastic hence the air noise. Spent $300 for a junkyard door in excellent shape. Very few scratches and the same color at that. Funny story - the junkyard was a police impound and while I drove my car inside to have them put the door in the backseat, some crazy woman was awaiting her escape in her vehicle. She sped out once she saw the first opportunity.

Edited by 2012 Legacy H6
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