What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4

[Scooby Fan]

I did the same thing right after I got this Legacy a few years ago. I figure it increases the airflow a bit to the bottom of the radiator but mostly for me it just looks better.... Great minds must think alike

[Scubaboo]

.... Great minds must think alike

 

Indeed!

 

Now I am on part 2 of this, looking at the upper grill now. It gets a bit more complicated here.

 

If you look into the upper grill past the mesh, the bottom part of the grill kicks upward. Looks like it does so to push incoming air up towards the air intake holes.

 

Problem is that the upward kick blocks a part of the oil cooler from direct air flow.

 

Im thinking of removing or notching the inside lower portion of the grill to give air a direct shot onto the top part of the cooler.

I'm hesitant about hacking up my OE aero package front grill though lol!

 

I am looking for one online just to hack on but I see they are $$$ now surprisingly, and not common.

 

So that is on hold, looking for an aftermarket mesh grill now, a cheap one so I dont feel bad about hacking it if I need to.

[Humble Rumble]

Once I get going on my cooling upgrades, one of my plans is to cut R33 N1 style vents into the bumper, for both aesthetic and functional purposes. There's vents like these all over ebay, and paint-matched, I think they'll look pretty good.

 

Uh, definitely go rep for this part though if you do, because I just checked the current price for a genuine Nismo set of these, and they're FOURTEEN HUNDRED USD.

 

[Scubaboo]

I'd be interested to see where you place those. The entire area between the upper and lower grill is filled with the bumper beam. In for the diy!

 

I've got a corrugated crumple zone beam the US cars dont have and I'm not sure about cutting into that.

 

Edited February 22, 2022 by Scubaboo

[Scubaboo]

Changed out the brake fluid, used Ate Typ 200 like last time.

 

[creep_nu]

been spinning my wheels since i can't decide what direction i want to go with the car...needs a whole paint job, so undecided if i actually want to get that done, or just let the paint do its thing and turn sorta derelict and just keep her running well mechanically. so instead, i've started working on the interior, and figuring out suspension stuff.

 

"new" weathertech mats from a friend selling his outback, actual new trunk liner, new back seat release thingies in the trunk since they both broke(50+lbs of bowling balls can be...unwieldy...), used steering wheel that's in much better shape than mine, and my window regulator decided to take a dump on me so i've got one of those on order. still need a couple extra bits and pieces here(deformed tweeter cover, for instance) that i'll grab at a junk yard next time i go to the good one, and the big thing is a new seat since the vinyl is cracked and splitting... certainly not the most fun update, but it's satisfying when everything's starting to feel nicer again.

[Noobaroo]

...and the big thing is a new seat since the vinyl is cracked and splitting... certainly not the most fun update, but it's satisfying when everything's starting to feel nicer again.

 

 

I'm in a similar boat - car is running great and only 75k miles but the exterior and interior are getting a bit tired. Where did you source new seats? I've been debating trying to get my driver's seat repaired vs. replacing.

[Fabsx]

Finally swap my entire interior from cloth beige to black leather! Was debating for a year on spending money on a good seat cover since mine started to rip or just pay alittle more to swap out everything.

 

I even upgraded my passenger seat from manual to full power. Was well worth the 4-5hrs spent swapping all panels, even the seats belts and rear deck.

Also will be wrapping my steering fully to get rid of the cover.

 

 

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[creep_nu]

I'm in a similar boat - car is running great and only 75k miles but the exterior and interior are getting a bit tired. Where did you source new seats? I've been debating trying to get my driver's seat repaired vs. replacing.

 

I've looked at 2 seats at my local junkyard and they weren't in great shape. I found one down the road at car-part.com that I'm going to take a look at eventually. If it's no good I'm tempted to just order full leather seats from katskinz or something like that but... we'll see.

[creep_nu]

well, got the window regulator installed yesterday. couple things...if yours is going out do yourself a favor and change it before it's completely dead, and just get a new vapor barrier from the dealer..they're like $25, and the plastic rips way too easily to get it back right. if the window's stuck in the up position, ratcheting wrenches lets you get the 2 bolts for the actual window clamps, and breaking off a couple tabs off the regulator that holds the metal slide to the door helps you release the window. extremely straight forward, just a few bolts, but boy howdy was it a pain since i couldn't roll the window down.

[islandborn]

I just did both my front windows. Yup to the vapor barrier, motor, etc.... the passenger went out, so I just did them both.

[Niko0422]

Installed OEM interior light kit. Not sure how I feel about the mixture of blue and red lights . Has anyone tried changing the lights in the temperature control box ?

 

 

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[motorbreath]

been spinning my wheels since i can't decide what direction i want to go with the car...needs a whole paint job, so undecided if i actually want to get that done, or just let the paint do its thing and turn sorta derelict and just keep her running well mechanically. so instead, i've started working on the interior, and figuring out suspension stuff.

 

I splurged on a paint job and would really recommend it, it's alot of money, but if you are going to keep the car it really changes the look of the car in my case.

[Humble Rumble]

Long post incoming. I’m going to preface this post with the fact that I have not touched literally ANYTHING electrical/wiring related on my car or in my life. My experience with wiring in any capacity is literally infant level, absolute zero. Tried my hand at something new last night and very happy that 1. I figured out a simple solution 2. I learned how to do a new thing and 3. It actually worked as I hoped it would (and I didn’t break anything in the process lmao).

 

I’ve had these Ganadors mirrors (before you ask, they’re discontinued and the only place to get them is to get extremely lucky and stumble on a listing for them on Yahoo Japan auctions) sitting around for a while and decided to finally start the process of disassembling them for paint (the carbon hydrodip finish is pretty bad from the previous owner trying to clear over it and doing a very bad job). Disassembly is recommended for painting the housings. I looked up a disassembly guide and the first steps are as follows:

 

1. Connect the mirrors to the car for power

2. Wind the mirror all the way inward

3. Reach behind the glass and pop the glass off its ball mount

4. Wind the mirror all the way upwards and finally out of the housing

 

So I got to removing my stock mirror, which involves removing the door cards (which I’ve also not done before and now know how to do) to access two of the three mirror bolts and the power plug. Well, in the process of mounting the Ganadors (thankfully they are actually for the right chassis and fit perfect), I discovered that the Ganadors and my factory mirrors have different plugs, so plugging it into power wasn’t possible. It dawned on me that the Ganadors have a different plug for the power to the turn signals. I tried finding wiring diagrams to indicate which wire does what and couldn’t find any. However after examining the the plugs, I noticed that 3 of the Ganador’s 5 wires in the plug were in indentical spots as the 3 wires on the stock mirror. So it stood to reason that since literally the only powered function my stock mirrors have is glass movement, that all three wires are responsible for moving the glass. It also stands to reason that since the Ganadors have the same wires in the same spots, that they are also responsible for glass movement, leaving the extra two wires responsible for signal power (this might seems obvious to someone familiar with electrical stuff but remember that I have literally *zero* experience with absolutely anything related to wiring, so this was an experience of discovery for me). An aside to this is that the Ganadors most likely have the same plug setup as SAP mirrors, so these should be a direct plug in for an SAP Outback.

 

So, since I still need to get the glass out for painting, the thought occurred to me: why don’t I just de-pin the Ganador connector and re-pin just the three movement wires to my original mirrors plug, and leave the signal wires free, just as a temporary solution to get power to move the glass (although I’ll need to wire the signal wires separately anyways to use the signal LEDs, so it may be a permanent solution). So I ordered a pin tool set from Amazon, got it, and started (quite literally) poking around in the plugs. It took a bit to figure out exactly where to put the pin and where to push to release the wire terminals (with this type plug, it’s from the inner hole, underneath the terminal metal, to push it up and over a little plastic nub that holds it in place in its slot), but I finally figured it out and was able to remove all the wires from both mirrors (the Ganador terminals were way easier to remove than the ones in the factory mirror for some reason). I made a diagram of what color wires were where on both mirrors and what color wires from the Ganadors correspond to what color wires from the factory mirrors, re-pinned every, left the signal wires loose, plugged the mirror in and -- SUCCESS!! The mirror motors whirred to life and the adjustment works! I was able to adjust the glass as the guide said and was finally able to remove the glass! Now I can continue removing the rest of the motor and disassembling them fully for painting! Sorry for the long post, but I’m thrilled that my idea worked exactly as I hoped it would, and that I’ve finally dipped my toes ever so slightly into learning about wiring.

 

 

Video of the motors working:

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgDMtexCCaA]Legacy BM Ganador Super Mirrors - Re-pinned and functioning motors[/ame]

[creep_nu]

good job learning some new skills humble, those mirrors are gonna look sick once they're all fixed and done!

[jmhinkle]

10 year old 22k mile car maintanance the last two days. Did the front and rear diff oil. Replaced the original spark plugs and wouldn't wish that job on my worst enemy. 4 cylinder is so easy. H6 is just awful. Swapped in the Subaru 20mm rear sway bar and Kartboy endlinks. Had the bigger Subaru front to swap in until I realized the engine had to be lifted. Wasn't in the mood for that after fighting the plugs. I also replaced the brake lines with the Goodridge SS ones and installed the new Powerstop Z23 brake kit and flushed all the fluid. Installed the Torque Solutions steering lockdown thingy, but not sure I like that. Makes the steering weird to say the least. Lastly, installed the summer wheels and put the winters away.

[DugsSin]

These should help with maintenance on 5 vehicles

[jmhinkle]

I pulled out the steering damper lockdown before work last night. It was causing the steering to feel like the power steering pump was building up pressure and would go from feeling tight to jerking with over assist. Car was squirelly in corners and downright scary to drive. Feels great without it and the new 20mm RSB and new summer tires now. Still considering getting a set of mid level coilovers since there are so few options for suspension upgrades otherwise anymore. I'd like just a small drop, an inch at most, but definitely more firm suspension.

[Loya1ty]

Replaced both headlight bulbs. Haven't driven the car at night probably for a month or 2... wasn't fun finding out they were goners driving home from a Caps game at 11pm -_-. So if you were on 66 or 495 and got blinded by my hi-beam PIAA rally bulbs... my bad.

[Plastixx]

I pulled out the steering damper lockdown before work last night. It was causing the steering to feel like the power steering pump was building up pressure and would go from feeling tight to jerking with over assist.

 

Did you loosen the bolts for the universal joints when you installed it? I didn't when I first installed mine ($40 ebay knock-off with no instructions) and the result was pretty much what you described. I loosened the bolts, turned the steering wheel lock to lock a few times, and then re-tightened them. Problem solved.

 

Not sure if the Torque Solutions one comes with instructions, but here are the instructions from Perrin...

 

https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/perrinperformance/perrin.com/products/PSP-SUS-565.pdf

[jmhinkle]

Did you loosen the bolts for the universal joints when you installed it? I didn't when I first installed mine ($40 ebay knock-off with no instructions) and the result was pretty much what you described. I loosened the bolts, turned the steering wheel lock to lock a few times, and then re-tightened them. Problem solved.

 

Not sure if the Torque Solutions one comes with instructions, but here are the instructions from Perrin...

 

https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/perrinperformance/perrin.com/products/PSP-SUS-565.pdf

 

Thank You! The TS did not come with instructions and that explains it. I thought it was just compressing the rubber section too much and binding up. I will give it another try on my next long weekend.

[Falcor]

Rotated the tires yesterday. Nothing crazy, but I was able to do a quick inspection of all four corners.

 

 

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[Loya1ty]

Finally had some time to pull apart the front, driver side caliper and cleaned the slide pins, reapplied brake parts grease, and inspected all the bits in there. A lot of the 'grinding' pedal feel seems to have disappeared, but I'm still noticing some creaking noises from that corner. sigh... I've pretty much replaced everything under there so who knows. next step is to apply more grease into the tie rod bushing as they were pretty flat after install. hopefully that does it.

[Humble Rumble]

Dropped off my Ganador mirror housings for paint. Also dropped off my grille for a repaint since it got some slight damage during my engine swap and is rock-chipped to hell anyways. It's also never been the right silver (was C6Z instead of G1U) so double win. Same dude that painted my front lip and spoiler is doing them. Also dropped off my lip with him due to some peeling that started shortly after install. He's touching that up for free, but since the lip is held on by self-tappers, it was actually easier and less of a headache to just drop off the whole bumper than remove the lip. Actually not a bad deal as my next two projects up are radiator replacement and seeing if I can work out an oil cooler, so now I've got extra room to work in there.

[creep_nu]

you painting the mirrors body color or black?