motorbreath

Well, I had to give it a shot.

This is essentially what I am running, but with an open-source e-tune, and it is absolutely worth it, see the attached boost (MAP) curve using the stock turbo. The only drawbacks that I have experienced are that (i) its a little finicky to start in very cold weather (< -20C) and (ii) you really have to be careful of EGT when cruising on the highway.

I only have experience with the Invidia cat, which is very spendy, https://www.invidia-exhausts.com.au/invidia-liberty-2010-down-pipe-j-pipe-with-high-fl but keep in mind that all of these aftermarket cats have, from what I understand, a more restrictive opening in the flange compared to the stock cat. The one that I have from Invidia causes a notable noise when the wastegate is wide open, so I think that you might need a tune if you use an aftermarket one. I could be wrong about this, hopefully people with more experience can jump in.

I assume you don't live in the rust belt, I had to scrap my turbo because it was rust-welded to the stock cat! It was probably for the best, the turbo had over 100k on it and 10 hard years of salty winters.

Are you able to log your upstream and downstream O2 sensor readings? It would be interesting to see them transition from a cold start to highway cruising. I could compare them to mine with an aftermarket cat and relatively new O2 sensors.

They don't seem to sell them for the Subaru, but the front OEM knuckles aren't that bad.

Does anyone have experience with the aftermarket front knuckles? They are dirt cheap on Rock Auto but I usually stay away with anything that starts with "Dor" and ends with "man". Apart from the extra cost of an alignment, seems like the way to go. Crazy how expensive the rears are, though, but I would definitely give the hub buster a shot for those!

Unfortunately that was something I *should* have done when I replaced the turbo and exhaust manifold...not sure if it can be done without removing the manifold.

I applied more Fluid Film to the underbody, removed all four wheel well covers and sprayed there as well, along with replacing a few broken clips. I checked the oil and topped it up, burning around a quart per 1k miles but then noticed something weird with the radiator. The coolant return line was backed-off the radiator quite a bit, I got pliers on the clamp and pushed it back on, but there is very little compression being applied from the clamp. I replaced both the supply and return hoses when I did the timing belt a few years ago. Used new clamps from Subaru, but the hoses were aftermarket (Gates), you can see that the engine side of the upper hose is clamped correctly, but the radiator side will not clamp any further I am wondering if I should replace the upper hose, seems to be a bit too thick for the stock clamp. Note that it looks like is it still captured by the indentation that keeps the clamp open when you first buy it, but prying the clamp over that does not result in any further compression. I don't want to fiddle with it too much, that radiator plastic is 14 years old...

I replaced my springs at 105k and then years old, they were not in fantastic shape due to Canadian winters. I'm spraying the whole underbody with Fluid Film in the next week or so, once every couple of years, but I do the suspension components every season because of the salt where I live

I forgot to mention, I kept the old rack with new (Mevotech) inner and outer tie rods. If anyone thinks they want to take a shot at replacing the steering rack seals (I think there are two on each side), the whole assembly is yours if you want it.

Are there any recommendations for handling rust above the rear wheels where the bumper plastic meets the body? I hesitate to post pictures, don't want to traumatize anyone...but I want to get this area addressed now before it gets worse.

125k miles, but I did replace the transmission mount and pads for the cross member last year. The transmission mount I used was an aftermarket one that is solid.

After verifying leaks from damaged seals on both sides of the rack, I ordered a new one along with engine mounts, already had the pitch stop but had not installed it yet. I just got the car back from the mechanic, they dropped the front subframe to install everything. This was an extremely expensive mistake, I am not even going to mention the cost, it is really painful and emotional topic for me, especially considering the cost to my pride. However, HOLY SH*T my original engine mounts must have been completely failed because the car drives sooooooo much better now with almost zero slop with a hard take-off or in reverse.

OK, I know this might sound petty, but the first thing I would do is get 25mm spacers for the rear and 20mm for the front. I could not get over the rear track being noticeably shorter than the front, so this made a huge difference in the look of the car to me. Just two cents from a Baltimoron.

Yeah, I have heard it referred to as an engine mount and a pitch stop, even though it is not the same design as for the WRX. In the parts website it is called a "torque strut mount", so I think it is not normally loaded when the car is stationary and level. In my case the two main engine mounts are starting to fail, so the front mount seems to always have some of the weight of the engine on it at all times.

So I just picked-up the parts today, just sticking with the stock bushings, 2 of which come with the rack and the other was pretty cheap (relatively). I also got new engine mounts to add the the pitch stop that I ordered last year but never got around to installing. Finally, I ordered new hard lines for the new steering rack and, thankfully, my local dealership parts department took pity on my and gave me a very substantial discount. Everything should get installed next week and I am looking forward to getting it back on the road...driving my wife's Ascent is uninspiring.

Thanks for the heads-up, I have a new rack on order along with engine mounts, but I'll call first thing for the bushings. I'll stick with OEM, my wife already hates how rough the ride is and I want to get this work done ASAP. This is going to be costly, but I'll get over it!

Well, I recently made the very poor decision to replace both the inner and outer tie rods, since my outer ones were starting to have some play in them and so why not replace both... This was a really stupid decision because in my desperation to get to the inner part of the steering rack boots, both for removal and installation, I ended up over extended the rack on the drivers side and damaging the internal seals. Now for many of you this seems like a completely idiotic thing to do, but I did it. Not sure how bad the drivers side is leaking into the newly installed boot, but I am likely looking at some serious $$$ to get this fixed since I am pretty sure you need to drop the subframe to repair the steering rack.

Probably an obvious answer to most of you, but he confirmed that I could use any similar mass flywheel without tune issues.

I currently have an ACT HD kit installed which I am not too happy with. I am pretty sure that its a single piece and the friction surface cannot be replaced, plus I prefer spending the extra $$$ on a new replacement versus resurfacing. I realize now that I probably should just ask my tuner, so I'll do that and post the reply on this thread since I think it is relevant.

Not sure if this has been answered before, but if my car was tuned with a lightweight flywheel, should I replace with the same flywheel (weight or weight and design) when I replace the clutch?

Holy crap, its beautiful, I am doing this next weekend...have you ever heard of Mother's "Back to Black" trim restorer? I used that on my motorcycle plastics and it worked great.

So I pulled-up to a gas station earlier today to fill-up, but found that my fuel door did not open after pulling the release next to my drivers seat. The release lever pull also felt surprisingly light, so I realized that the exposed part of the cable must have rusted and broken (see pics). I drilled-out the screw holding the cover on, surprise surprise, it was completely rust-welded to the bracket. Snapped off both nuts and the two studs that the handle bracket is attached to, they too were rust welded together. The previous owners used the stock all-weather mats, which do f-all for protecting the foot well areas from salt and water in the winter. I have Weather Techs which do a good job, but the damage was already done. My suggestion for all of you wonderful people out there with functioning fuel door release levers is to spray that area with some corrosion inhibitor (Fluid Film, something like that). There is not much of the exposed cable left for me to work with, along with the broken studs for the handle bracket, so I'll probably just crimp another piece of stranded cable with a loop onto the remaining exposed cable end and try to fasten the cover in place so that it is not too unsightly.

My bad, did not realize that, I have the '13-14 springs in my '10 and they are definitely an improvement in handling!