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Time for a new short block


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WOW, that's amazing. Did you have hail from last night storm ? Sorry to see that.

 

May be a tree limb blew into it ?

 

Same thing happened to my brother back in the 1970's when he was going to SCSC. He came out of the dorm one morning and saw the same thing, 1966 Dodge Coronet.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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It rained no hail that I know of.. I'm thinking maybe the heat inside the car? I've only opened it maybe 5 days ago.

 

Good thing my tint is holding the glass in.. but it was time for it to be replaced so it's OK...

 

Right now I'm debating on what injectors I need for my power level of 340 WHP I'm not sure if 850 cc is going to be overkill..

 

I can tell you with my girlfriend being in Brooklyn it's going to be about 90% highway miles..

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http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160709/0e7649694f66a47c738c83a3cfdbcfd1.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160709/cb55045a689188df22fd525fa6ca733d.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160709/7470d90296b5df0a7d76fdced7c27d50.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160709/5f8683dad7ec3d4d9d0f22cab6cbb20d.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160709/4e0515ae3fe8b6a41db69020314994bc.jpg

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm trying to decide and figure out if I can reuse my stock rods? I figure I was going to have them ultrasonic cleaned I gotta have my car up before the end of next month so I'm cutting back on things that are not needed seeing a few videos it's going to be hard to break that 340 so the all aluminum radiator can wait lol

 

 

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Ok well I'm going to at least need one new rod looks like 2 rods spun and all look in bad shape with the bearings http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160724/866b85653f4070ff7076ae832b14ef8e.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160724/07b00d2f236fb617ffc7a688a848c046.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160724/41c066ce6acf9a24d222f959f636882c.jpg

 

 

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The thing is, the rod bolts are so close to the price of a budget rod kit it doesn't seem worth it. The stock rods and bolts are quite strong enough for 400whp as long as the motor is not going past about 7k0rpm.

 

I'd also get a new or good used crank rather than grind that one.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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lol you gotta be kidding if you thought I was going to reuse that crank same with the rods im just going to order new OEM rods. I'm not going over 310WHP just for reliability sake and the extra hassle to get to that power level.

 

I kinda wonder how my tires are going to handle it.. I got new tires on the car with less then 100 miles on them and I'm not 100% sure how they will handle because I got them in the eco+ versions of the continentals.

 

damn vacation to Disney in FL killed me :|

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lol you gotta be kidding if you thought I was going to reuse that crank same with the rods im just going to order new OEM rods. I'm not going over 310WHP just for reliability sake and the extra hassle to get to that power level.

 

I kinda wonder how my tires are going to handle it.. I got new tires on the car with less then 100 miles on them and I'm not 100% sure how they will handle because I got them in the eco+ versions of the continentals.

 

damn vacation to Disney in FL killed me :|

 

Oh I wish I were kidding, and that I could un-see the things I have seen! Sorry if you feel besmirched there, but I don't know you and haven't been following your thread. I've seen plenty of parts in worse shape than that crank being put back into a motor (usually on the owner's insistence) while the mechanic simultaneously crossed himself, prayed toward Mecca and sacrificed a live goat to Odin in the hope that it would somehow work out okay. I'm serious. If I could erase the bad memories via hypnotherapy or something, I'd come around thinking I was ten years younger.

 

310whp is happy stock shortblock territory. You could very easily have bought a new factory shortblock, opened the ring gap up a tad, fitted the head studs for insurance against overboost excursions and called it good.

 

All Contis suck, IMO, because of the ridiculously soft smooshy sidewalls, but they do at least tend to be good in the wet. Not bad for use in FL.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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I wanted to rebuild my motor it's not like I just needed a new SB and call it a day.. I still have to get a new turbo.. somehow something got sucked in and broke about 5 blades I'm sure someplace in the FMIC.
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Yes I get that. What I mean is that by the time you're through getting another crank, buying bearing kits etc. and spending money boring and machining your current block halves, it would have been cheaper to just buy a brand new shortblock. I'm all for DIY though and I also like doing things the hard way sometimes.
Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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I wanted some advice related to possibly getting a new short block for my '08 Legacy 2.5i. I've been consuming roughly a quart of oil every 800-1,000 miles recently. After taking my car to the dealership to have them diagnose it I was told that the piston rings are most likely stuck (soot deposits in the exhaust and no visible leaks anywhere), causing excess oil to be consumed. Having said that, my stance right now is to get a new short block for to ensure all of the the pistons, crank, rods are all in good shape, rather than just replace the rings. Considering the shear number of other Subaru owners that have had issues with excess oil consumption, is this the safest bet to ensure the oil consumption issue will be resolved? Also, my car is a little over 8 years old but only has about 117,000 miles on it.

 

My dilemma is while my car is old (in years) I don't want to part with it just yet, especially if a new short block is the only thing preventing my car to last another 2-3 years. I don't particularly care for newer sedans and especially since I've had my Legacy since Day 1 and have taken excellent care of it, I want to hold onto it as long as I can, so long as it makes financial sense.

 

 

Any advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. This is only my 2nd post on this forum, though I've been coming here for years to get all sorts of tidbits of info related to my Subaru. Thanks.

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Yes I get that. What I mean is that by the time you're through getting another crank, buying bearing kits etc. and spending money boring and machining your current block halves, it would have been cheaper to just buy a brand new shortblock. I'm all for DIY though and I also like doing things the hard way sometimes.

 

Reason I just said "F it" and got a short block. Luckily the dealer here has a slew of blown cars come in so a 257 was locally sourced from parts dept. 52 for rebuild also locally sourced. I took some time to ask around as people in the local Subaru clubs were clueless to who rebuilds engines or machines heads. It's like they blow the engine and then throw the whole car away.

 

I wanted some advice related to possibly getting a new short block for my '08 Legacy 2.5i. I've been consuming roughly a quart of oil every 800-1,000 miles recently. After taking my car to the dealership to have them diagnose it I was told that the piston rings are most likely stuck (soot deposits in the exhaust and no visible leaks anywhere), causing excess oil to be consumed. Having said that, my stance right now is to get a new short block for to ensure all of the the pistons, crank, rods are all in good shape, rather than just replace the rings. Considering the shear number of other Subaru owners that have had issues with excess oil consumption, is this the safest bet to ensure the oil consumption issue will be resolved? Also, my car is a little over 8 years old but only has about 117,000 miles on it.

 

My dilemma is while my car is old (in years) I don't want to part with it just yet, especially if a new short block is the only thing preventing my car to last another 2-3 years. I don't particularly care for newer sedans and especially since I've had my Legacy since Day 1 and have taken excellent care of it, I want to hold onto it as long as I can, so long as it makes financial sense.

 

 

Any advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. This is only my 2nd post on this forum, though I've been coming here for years to get all sorts of tidbits of info related to my Subaru. Thanks.

 

How is the car holding up from rust? Is the engine the only thing wrong with it? You may want to start a new thread to get better attention to your unique situation.

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Finally got my new position at UPS :woowoo: so stuff should be rolling a bit faster, going to order the crank this Friday the main bearings don't look any better but they did not spin. I ordered the king bearing mains in standard size.

 

I wont know if my block needs to be aligned honed until I drop it off.. I just gotta take off the oil cooler and one or two pipes left on the block still sticking with stock rods

 

If I'm correct me switching Flywheels from stock I need the flywheel bolts from the '05 WRX right?

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I just ordered FW bolts for a Legacy GT with a SMFW...07-09.

 

That's what's holding in the SMFW and Spec 2+ clutch I got from "Underdog" PM him.

 

I hope you can use those bearings, I would have waited to hear from the machine shop...

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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