BrianEarlSpilner

Awful first car especially now that the 4th gens are all pretty well aged. They can be a lot of fun, but demand a ton of maintenance. Also if anything should go wrong with the engine/turbo the repair bills will far outweigh the cars' value. That being said I made a lot of poor decisions against better advice at that age. Do what you must.

I've noticed a slight increase in time to full boost after installing elh. Posts on the topic make you believe that the spool is always faster. I figured with the engine pumping a given volume per rpm and boost that the longer runners would take more time to fill. Have you had to increase wgdc to hit target boost since the install?

God I love that GRP

Thanks for always providing such great service Dave! Great to hear you're helping out the community again.

What you're describing sounds eerily similar to my experience with burned valves. Also seems shady that 3 stealerships passed it off. I would go straight to the compression test and go from there. If so it's not the end of the world. Use it as an excuse to do some mods as well.

I would think you'd only wanna go with a race setup if it was a dedicated track car. Do you really want to strap in every time you have to get a gallon of milk? You don't wanna half ass it. The factory restraint/airbag setup is very good to begin with. Once you get rid of that you almost need a cage and Hans device, not just a harness bar. A lot of setups look safe, but will most likely cause more harm in a crash. All or nothing may be the wrong way to put it and it's not what I'm describing. In the end I would think livability is going to be your deciding factor. If you use your car a lot for menial things, then the safety mods are gonna get old real fast. That being said who wouldn't want a baller race wheel?

I was under the impression that sway bar links had to be connected with the suspension under load...

Here's a brake bias idea. They make a bracket to use LGT front rotors on the rear of the car with the stock rear calipers. If you're buying ATS rotors and you don't have too many miles on the fronts just slap em on the back with this bracket. http://www.racingbrake.com/Subaru-REAR-CB09D-p/cb09d.htm They make a whole kit but the rotors are $$$

Most likely pieces of the old turbo. A lot of times that's what happens when turbos fail. Your best bet is flushing the oil and changing it a couple times back to back to flush all the debris out. Still some particulate could end up ruining the rod bearings. Best of luck, hope it turns out ok

Let's bump this baby back up. Today while fixing an intercooler/turbo connection I happened to notice there wasn't a bolt in the pitch stop at the top of the engine. I guess that can happen when you pull an engine and put it back in from memory and don't take any notes.

Read the first page of this thread.

Is anyone using their AP on a windows 10 computer? I've got no issues using ATR and the AP manager on my windows 7 laptop, but it never recognizes the AP on the Win10 desktop I have. Every time I connect the AP it says its connecting and then attempts to get the info for about a minute and simply states "failed to connect" every time. I've already tried uninstalling the software and drivers and starting from scratch but no luck. I will just stick to the laptop as I always have, but if anyone has gotten it to work I'd appreciate hearing about it.

Did it myself, but it was a PITA. I think I was at the gym a lot more back then. Pretty sure I braced the engine against my chest and just cranked on it. 30-60-90 sequence seemed to be worth the price for the set. After reading the Subaru sequence I thought the ARP studs were a no brainer.

I wrapped up my E-85 tune with Dave not too long ago. I can't say enough good things about Cryotune. You'll get fast responses from a very knowledgeable tuner, and there's nothing like getting more power in an e-mail!

I was wondering about them too. Other forums say good things about them. I don't like that you have to request a quote. They didn't have prices on the site when I checked. $150 a side isn't bad for a quality piece.

Heads can be so hard to come by, at least reasonably. Don't know if these would help. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-IMPREZA-WRX-STI-OEM-EJ25-ENGINE-MOTOR-PASSENGER-RIGHT-B25-CYLINDER-HEAD-/301567396826?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4636d14bda&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-IMPREZA-WRX-STI-OEM-EJ25-2-5L-ENGINE-MOTOR-DRIVER-LEFT-B25-CYLINDER-HEAD-/391088053491?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5b0eaa1cf3&vxp=mtr Hope you get this sorted soon. your luck will turn around

Thanks Dave! Awesome write up! Take note Subie owners. When you're looking for tuners/vendors remember who puts in the time on the forums to help us all out.

Love this thread.... -sheared a bolt re-installing the water pump -sheared off intake manifold stud re-installing manifold (the first time) -put the engine back in the car and then found the flywheel flex plate in my trunk, D'oh!! that was fun attaching with the engine in. -had the starter sitting on a counter for a month while the engine was out and I didn't touch it, which sounds ok. Now the temp dropped and it's not releasing from the flywheel fast enough so I have to listen to that awful screech from time to time. why o why didn't I grease the shaft? (that's what she said)

Anybody know of a good machine shop in SE Wisconsin? Need to have my heads rebuilt.

With the IP&T kit you use a double banjo (supplied) on the front passenger side near the OCV. So yes there's 2 in that case because you're actually relocating where the oil draws from. I don't recall if there was a filter on the other banjo though... If you weren't to go that route then you would probably only remove the filter from the rear of the block. I did say earlier that Brian offered a filtered supply. He offered it to me because at the time Infamous was between v1 and v2 and there wasn't a lot of other options. I did end up using the Infamous kit btw.

I replaced mine with Infamous Performance v2 feed kit. At the very minimum you will want to remove the banjo. Keep in mind that Brian requires an upgraded oil feed for the warranty. One thing you know for sure is the stock oil feed is KNOWN for oil starvation, so it seems silly to argue a filtered feed line would suffer the same problem. You don't need the Infamous kit though. Brian offers a supply with his turbos too.

Oh yeah. It was the turbo no doubt. Dropped in the BNR 18G this weekend and no more knock... just the gentle whir of horsepower waiting to be unleashed!

I am currently talking to Brian about replacing my vf40. He's up and running yet. If you have to spend the $$$ you might as well get a good piece.

I thought it was the valvetrain initially, but the stethoscope method points to the turbo. The knock doesn't stay in step with the rpm of the motor. If I raise the rpm to about 2,000 and drop it the knock becomes erratic and out of step. Then it levels out and becomes consistent. If you bring the rpm back up over 1,500 it goes away all together. It didn't seem like a sound a turbo would make and maybe its not but that's where my money is.... literally. No matter what the noise is I am sure this won't be easy on the wallet

05 LGT with stock VF40 104K. I know its bound to go sooner or later but can that be the shaft bouncing around? I know the sure way to know would be to pull the turbo but I just wanted to see if anyone has heard this noise before. I've data logged it but no knock detected there. Here's a link to a video