Merc6 Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 My TGV's are separate of the intake mani but still all the lines hooked up to it. I'm gonna try and see what all these screws go to before I make a huge what are those post. Sent from my iFail using Tapatalk App 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 I just want to be sure when I pull the motor no wires are left connected Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt166 Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 Its much easier to do what max recommends and remove the fuel lines from the DS strut tower, guess its too late now, unless you want to get those fuel lines out of the way for removal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 10, 2015 Author Share Posted October 10, 2015 I ended up buying the disconnect tool ok so now I have that company 23 tool for the avcs cam however it seems to only work on the passenger side? I'm missing something here? I ended up buying the cam holder tool on Friday Ok never mind I got it to go on the drivers side Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 10, 2015 Author Share Posted October 10, 2015 http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/10/1345947ef44f51af41a4ce153108989a.jpg That's the banjo from behind the cam the filter is so stuck I can't get it out so I'm going to get a new one but take the filter out.. The one for the turbo feed looked just as bad which I'm sure turbo number 2 never made it to 500 miles. Turbo 3 made it but something got sucked in and took out a bunch of blades.. The cams are off not one issue with the harbor freight hex set for $6.99 better then spending $30 for one socket. Now I think I'm ready to pull the motor but the main wire harness that's on the passenger side does it need to come off? I don't want to have anything snag while pullinghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/10/8e4cde0ae9c320a528ca893a5ba5067b.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted October 10, 2015 Share Posted October 10, 2015 New one comes with out the bulge making it possible to leave timing covers on right? Sent from my iFail using Tapatalk App 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt166 Posted October 10, 2015 Share Posted October 10, 2015 Do you have a copy of the service manual? I only ask because it made taking my engine out really easy by following it. How come you did all that engine work while the block is still in the car? Easier to do that stuff when its out no? Take your rad out, you'll kick yourself if that engine rocks forward when it separates and puts a hole in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 Yeah I have a service manual and i did it while it was in the car because I have no place else for it to sit.. as soon as I get the heads off I have to stick the shortblock in the trunk. So many rubber hoses have to be replaced due to having oil get in the lines so they get harder and brittle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 http://www.harborfreight.com/750-lb-capacity-engine-stand-69887.html I know its a little drive but you could have borrowed mine. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 lol I have that plus the 1 ton engine lift but it's in storage Now on one of these sites they said the AVCS has a security bit one site said it was at T30 security bit but just in case I ordered the Company 23 bit for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 Jesus what section is for engine removal in the service manual? I hate the way the service manual is laid out at least the '97 manual was more forward in telling what section a PDF was. Found it looks like I'm going to need new engine mounts too the rubber part on one of them fell away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 The GT's start around page 1605. Just look the engine bay over and see what you need to disconnect. It is pretty easy to remove. What are you having trouble removing ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 The engine main harness that runs behind and over the intake does the part on the strut tower need to come off? Because my day was held up I'm not going to have enough time to remove the motor today Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 I think I just disconnected the big gray connector on the right shock tower area. They may be another or two connectors around the tranny too Its been a while since I did mine. The two bottom ground wires. I think the two ECU grounds come out with the intake manifold, they a back by the brake booster on the metal bracket. Yep, those come off with the manifold. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4706_zpsd32de351.jpg Fuel lines, http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4673_zpsaf7aaf42.jpg 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 Tighten all the gas line clamps. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4749.jpg 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 I removed the bracket from the shock tower on the wife's 09 auto trans, for a little extra clearance. A couple of 2x's between the crossmember and trans held it up after removal so I could remove the jack, don't know if this will work for a MT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 Hmm max I will have to check I saw those ECU grounds and I got at least one off but they did not come up when I took of the intake manifold pretty much the front is disconnected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 I think those two grounds on the bar are part of the TGV's. I lifted my intake with the TGV's attached. It all came out as a unit. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 Ok that makes sense then.. Hey one question since I have to. Break in the motor if I'm going to be running larger injectors given my cai and Charles's downpipe I should not run the risk as much as before on stock injectors right? Only thing is the turbo would be from stock to a 20g it seems like you need to run the 8cm housing so you don't get boost creep Just concerned on how to go about driving the car after its done and getting the tune before or after the 1k miles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 IMO you should be able to dyno tune at 500 miles. Your Tuner should give you a new base map for the turbo, larger injectors and fuel pump before you start the engine. I may have missed it, but do you have a Tuner yet ? I think you know who I like. Mike is also working on getting access to dyno's around your area. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/else-loves-their-tuning-alliance-tune-246078.html 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 Yeah I don't have a tuner yet. And does this connector have a locking tab? Which way should I be pushing or pulling?http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/12/afbfc12b89cc4ddd420fa21b5b5e9348.jpg Oh never mind it comes out sideways Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Yep it sides off the bracket and then you push the handle down. Remember to use anti-seize compound on all threads. I notice those DP bolts look pretty dry. Oh do you have new oil return hose for the turbo. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share Posted October 13, 2015 Yep it sides off the bracket and then you push the handle down. Remember to use anti-seize compound on all threads. I notice those DP bolts look pretty dry. Oh do you have new oil return hose for the turbo. The oil return hose is less than a year old.. matter of fact by the time I put it on the hose was only about 4 months old before the motor went. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 The oil return hose is less than a year old.. matter of fact by the time I put it on the hose was only about 4 months old before the motor went. Ok, I'm just running down the list in my head. Do you have a list of things that should be done while the engine is out ? I replaced the heater hoses and other hard to get hoses. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share Posted October 13, 2015 I need to replace all the hoses under the hood oil got to them or age.. Also I had to get a bolt extractor because the drivers side motor mount nut is rusted and rounded Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Ok used the bolt extractor and got that rounded one out so all that's left is the dog bone and the tranny bolts right now I'm just cleaning the AVCS on the cams not really seeing a lot of any bearing stuff in it but the blowby has really made the oil nasty looking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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