1-3-2-4 Posted May 15, 2015 Posted May 15, 2015 motor finally let go, I would hear slight rod knock under load around 3500, then each time I would clutch in it would stall, I knew enough for the same sound with the Ej25D to know what it was So what's the going rate for the block is it $1680?
BrianEarlSpilner Posted May 15, 2015 Posted May 15, 2015 I think it comes out close to $1800 shipped from heubergers. Bummer btw. I feel like it's a fate we all share at some point.
1-3-2-4 Posted May 15, 2015 Author Posted May 15, 2015 mine had low compression in at least one of the cylinders but I'm guessing the forces was enough for bearing wear.. I almost made it to 202k
doobaruGT Posted May 15, 2015 Posted May 15, 2015 What are you going with? 255, 257? Max Capacity has a nice thread outlining the swap with a 257. Also, someone has Tris's rebuild/swap catalog of parts cached and I think that's due to make an appearance soon. Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE!
Max Capacity Posted May 15, 2015 Posted May 15, 2015 Yep, read my click here link...it's in my sig in case you can't find it... You may want to replace your oil cooler too. Eastwoods is a little drive for you, but I highly recommend them. Let me know if you need anything. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here
1-3-2-4 Posted May 15, 2015 Author Posted May 15, 2015 If the 255 and 257 are the same price why would I want the 257? Being as the car is a turbo I'm sure it's like the EJ25 in engine removal? realistically it's going to be a few weeks before I can remotely start and get the engine, at least it happened not to far from home and not on say The Brooklyn Bridge on the way out to see the girlfriend
Max Capacity Posted May 15, 2015 Posted May 15, 2015 Check out Heuberger and Fredbeans for SB prices, the ej257 was cheaper... Get the gasket set for your year car. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here
1-3-2-4 Posted May 17, 2015 Author Posted May 17, 2015 Do you have the gasket set part number? And what does the gasket set include? the Ej255 and EJ257 are both the same price on the FB site.
Max Capacity Posted May 17, 2015 Posted May 17, 2015 The 257 has a better crank, or used to. Again Ask "underdog" or one of the Mikes. Mike at http://www.AZPinstalls.com Mike or "m sprank" at http://www.infamousperformance.com BarManBean. The gasket set doesn't have the half moons and some crush washers for the banjo's. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here
CloudSeed777 Posted May 18, 2015 Posted May 18, 2015 The 257 has a better crank, or used to. Again Ask "underdog" or one of the Mikes. Mike at www.AZPinstalls.com Mike or "m sprank" at www.infamousperformance.com BarManBean. The gasket set doesn't have the half moons and some crush washers for the banjo's. EJ255/EJ257 are identical save the pistons which are higher compression units in the 257.
Max Capacity Posted May 18, 2015 Posted May 18, 2015 Yea, the piston are a little high C/R but still easy to tune. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here
1-3-2-4 Posted May 19, 2015 Author Posted May 19, 2015 I don't understand save the pistons? As they are no good?
Max Capacity Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 save = except 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here
1-3-2-4 Posted May 19, 2015 Author Posted May 19, 2015 I have an idea.. Thought about rebuilding the block it would be like this.. New crank forged pistons (don't know the size) new oil pump TB kit Killer B oil pickup new oil cooler head resurface Possible shave valve stems for clearance ACL bearings that will provide some room should I want to increase my power levels, I was thinking about having the shop I send my heads to to do the bearing and honing and installing the pistons, I'd have to call and figure out what the price would be
Merc6 Posted May 20, 2015 Posted May 20, 2015 Power levels 350 and under? Price out an already built block vs buying parts and machine shop time. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD)
1-3-2-4 Posted May 20, 2015 Author Posted May 20, 2015 A already built OEM shortblock? that's at least $1800... Hell just the EJ257 case halfs empty are going for like $1400 on ebay.. At this point rebuilding is looking like the better option.. I will know more when I call my guy up tomorrow.
Merc6 Posted May 20, 2015 Posted May 20, 2015 No rebuilt with forged like by a reputable company. The ones just recently used in a build thread escapes me at the moment. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD)
Merc6 Posted May 20, 2015 Posted May 20, 2015 Just price it out before you order parts is all I'm saying. Whats the cost of the pistons, rods, bearings, and machine on the halves if needed? 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD)
1-3-2-4 Posted May 20, 2015 Author Posted May 20, 2015 if it's too high for him to put the parts in I might do it myself I still have my old EJ25d block I took apart because I wanted to see the wear and was curious how hard/easy it was to split. To be really honest it's NOT really that hard bolt wise.. now the bearings I'd have to look at what the manual calls for. I have two questions that might help me because I remember the I think 8 bolts that sit recessed near the cylinder walls uh what size socket did you use? 1/2 was too fat to where I could not fit.. I ended up using a 3/8 12 pt socket but everyone was like use a 1/2 but I never found one that fit.. Installing the pins for the pistons.. getting them out was easy as I used my 7 inch long rod and just hammered them out.. getting them back in how in the hell do you do that? I know all about lining them up but it seems like another PITA moment?
CloudSeed777 Posted May 20, 2015 Posted May 20, 2015 if it's too high for him to put the parts in I might do it myself I still have my old EJ25d block I took apart because I wanted to see the wear and was curious how hard/easy it was to split. To be really honest it's NOT really that hard bolt wise.. now the bearings I'd have to look at what the manual calls for. I have two questions that might help me because I remember the I think 8 bolts that sit recessed near the cylinder walls uh what size socket did you use? 1/2 was too fat to where I could not fit.. I ended up using a 3/8 12 pt socket but everyone was like use a 1/2 but I never found one that fit.. Installing the pins for the pistons.. getting them out was easy as I used my 7 inch long rod and just hammered them out.. getting them back in how in the hell do you do that? I know all about lining them up but it seems like another PITA moment? I used a 3/8" socket extension to put the wrist-pins in mine. It fit nicely in the hole in the wrist pin - line up the holes then stick it in and wiggle it around till it goes in. Don't forget to put the retainer clip on the interior side of the piston before you put it in. You'll never get them in after the piston is installed. Check this vid:
1-3-2-4 Posted May 20, 2015 Author Posted May 20, 2015 I used a 3/8" socket extension to put the wrist-pins in mine. It fit nicely in the hole in the wrist pin - line up the holes then stick it in and wiggle it around till it goes in. Don't forget to put the retainer clip on the interior side of the piston before you put it in. You'll never get them in after the piston is installed. Check this vid: Thanks for the video, when I tore my old block down those pins needed a bit of hammer love to get out.
doobaruGT Posted May 20, 2015 Posted May 20, 2015 I used a 3/8" socket extension to put the wrist-pins in mine. It fit nicely in the hole in the wrist pin - line up the holes then stick it in and wiggle it around till it goes in. Don't forget to put the retainer clip on the interior side of the piston before you put it in. You'll never get them in after the piston is installed. Check this vid: After watching this, engine r&r isn't nearly as challenging as I imagined. Thanks for posting that. I'm attempting myself to discover whether I should go this route before my current block checks out. I'm at 182k and I like to be proactive. Not to mention I have a whole summer available to do so since I'm an educator. I'm balancing the cost with recoup on selling my existing SB and perhaps selling the existing internals from a new block and going forged on a 257. Sorry to highjack, I'm growing more interested... Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE!
1-3-2-4 Posted May 20, 2015 Author Posted May 20, 2015 And if I'm using a new crank and all new bearings I really don't have to worry about the clearance if you torque to spec. What I need to know is that master gasket set does it include those 3 gaskets between the case half of the block?
CloudSeed777 Posted May 20, 2015 Posted May 20, 2015 And if I'm using a new crank and all new bearings I really don't have to worry about the clearance if you torque to spec. What I need to know is that master gasket set does it include those 3 gaskets between the case half of the block? Yes it does. I needed a screw-driver to pry mine out tho http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/full-gasket-kit-content-10105aa720-203457.html
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