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Time for a new short block


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finally ordering the crank and the complete engine gasket tomorrow and the last two rods.. I'm hoping the TD05-18G and these rods can get along since I ran into the issue last time I will be making sure it's a 8CM housing
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So I ended up ordering a new oil pan for $89 got the full engine seal kit and ordered a new crank I also saw a good deal on a used dimming rear view mirror for $38 so I got it and it comes with the wire harness

 

 

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Good to see your got a good deal on the mirror. LOL

 

Oh yea, nice deal on the oil pan too.

 

 

 

Lol yeah I saw the mirror I was like it's not going to get a better deal than that.. Same with the oil pan

 

 

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I was wondering my target power level (340 WHP) in what power stage level does this put me in?

 

Couldn't find stages, just this. Search sucks...

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3725182&postcount=2

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Couldn't find stages, just this. Search sucks...

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3725182&postcount=2

 

I think I saw that thread before from what I'm guessing it's around stage 3.. but I'm sure Max is going to say yes but I guess I should do head studs? I'm not sure what PSI I'm going to need to get to my target power level I'm guessing between 20-25? As far as the head studs go they still have to follow the 90 degree turns and all that to set the torque for them?

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lol i'm going to have to blow under the car with a blower of some sorts.. But I'm guessing they did a chop something odd how they did after the stock resonator I'm not sure if it's 3" all the way back looks like a ebay setup from cat back.. with the stock resonator in and no cats I still had a drone that kinda bugged me I was thinking about taking the stock one out.. for whatever reason with only a 1.5" drop I'm too low to take my car to car washes with a chain drive.. that section and where the y-pipe are very low.

 

I think the 3 in pipe makes it a pain to try and drain the rear diff.. debating on getting a new catless down pipe or one with a cat.

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I think I saw that thread before from what I'm guessing it's around stage 3.. but I'm sure Max is going to say yes but I guess I should do head studs? I'm not sure what PSI I'm going to need to get to my target power level I'm guessing between 20-25? As far as the head studs go they still have to follow the 90 degree turns and all that to set the torque for them?

 

I thought all non "IHI/VF" turbo swaps were 3 but I can't remember. IIRC head studs weren't TTY so they weren't as many steps to get them secure. I ended up getting head bolts again because I figured I wasn't gonna exceed the PSI but I'm still debating on just getting them anyways and sell the new bolts I have. having too much time to build the car has been torture. Too much time to make a plan and then abandon it for what sounds better.

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I thought all non "IHI/VF" turbo swaps were 3 but I can't remember. IIRC head studs weren't TTY so they weren't as many steps to get them secure. I ended up getting head bolts again because I figured I wasn't gonna exceed the PSI but I'm still debating on just getting them anyways and sell the new bolts I have. having too much time to build the car has been torture. Too much time to make a plan and then abandon it for what sounds better.

It took me about 6 months to figure if I wanted to buy a new short block or rebuild I ended up going the rebuild route. I'm going to just buy a whole new case bolt set, just so I did not get any mixed up I took my old Ej25 case and screwed them into that while I broke down the Ej255. I just took the old woodruff key out of the Ej255 crank tonight the new crank should be coming in this week. I'll send the block off when I order the two other rods.

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Yes, I recommend ARP head studs. Follow the directions with them. They just seal better, less chance of stretching.

 

I'd go with catted DP the exhaust tips stay cleaner. They don't get back on the inside.

 

The exhaust change to smaller pipes at the axle so you should have room to get to the drain plug on the diff.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Yes, I recommend ARP head studs. Follow the directions with them. They just seal better, less chance of stretching.

 

I'd go with catted DP the exhaust tips stay cleaner. They don't get back on the inside.

 

The exhaust change to smaller pipes at the axle so you should have room to get to the drain plug on the diff.

 

 

 

Yeah I've heard tho that the arp studs are not really needed until you hit like 500+ whp as for the y pipe assuming you can find a stock pipe which is what 2.5"?

 

 

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Came pretty fast if you ask me from WA I ordered Friday morning $302 and it came today.. from the post office no less :lol: I thought for sure they would tell me I need to come pick it up. Two more rods to get then I'll send the block down to be done I assume the price he told me $500 to bore is including installing. He normally does the heads for like $125
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Finally took the oil cooler off yikes.. Not using this one again.. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160917/5249176ce8d2152e0fba6d9c64239915.jpg

 

 

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LOL I had no problem reusing mine, not the smartest thing I did.

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You know what I learned last night I did not know one line was coolant and the other was oil.. I thought both lines were for coolant.

 

Uh...I don't think that is correct. That would be a very uncommon way to plumb that style of oil cooler/heat exchanger.

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