SubOperator Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 On 3/30/2024 at 8:34 PM, Infosecdad said: Pulled the engine and tranny from the blue wagon today. I had to replace the 8-ton long ram hydraulic for my engine picker, the old one wouldn't hold pressure. I learned that HF now has a Pittsburgh hydraulic/air ram that you can hook up to your air compressor and it's amazing. So much easier on the old back to lift I am still sad about your wagon. One less RBP LGT Wagon in this universe. 1 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 5 hours ago, MajorWood said: Power steering seals i2.5. Local Subie Dealer parts guy gave me the output U shaped gasket and not the input O-ring that I asked for. He couldn't even produce a complete diagram of the pump at the counter. So will attempt to find the correct 34488B O-ring at a parts store and not waste time at dealer, unless with 16 years it would be prudent to replace the other gasket since I already have it in hand. I like to support locals, but it is hard when the counter guy can't locate and identify the correct part, and I can find it on Amazon in a minute, just sayin. Replaced rear exterior door handles with amazon specials and the driver side broke, even with gentle use, in two weeks. To the U-pull it I go. :-( I had some good luck picking up O-ring for steering pump at local Toyota dealer. Having old in my had to compare with what they had made it much easier. My preferred Subaru dealer is about 45 minute drive away but I like to give them business - they know their stuff and we've been with them since 2007. And Amazon/Ebay parts can be hit or miss. Even if they say OEM. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subisubisu Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 While at a bit of a pause in trying to wrap up the tune in my '05 OBXT refresh, due to data dropouts in the AEM AFR stream to ROMraider (guessing to fire the parts cannon and hope a new sensor will be good enough for long enough to wrap the tune process up, since intermittent dropouts are not so easy to diagnose with the gear I have on hand), I took care of an annoyance and a hazard. The annoyance was the rear hatch pneumatic struts. Did my normal amount of internet "research" and decided to get the StrongArm set. Easy out of the old set (which looked like a replacement set themselves) once I removed the trim around the rear light clusters, L & R, easy in of the new set. Now the hatch practically springs open once I coax it away from the latch position. The hazard was that it seemed to me that I could see too much of the water pump down where the lower radiator hose attached to it. I was using a silicone hose that came in a set on a slow boat from China last year, that may or may not have been made from a mold suited to the LGT/OBXT. Anyway, it was way too long, and it seems I may have cut it too short. It didn't seem that way when I installed it, but it's possible that things might shift as I drive it and reduce the amount of caution I use in applying the gas and brake pedals. It didn't seem easy to get just the lower rad hose in silicone to replace it, so I just ordered an OEM one. Not much of a job to replace it, but I managed to have to do it three times, but only drained the coolant once, and captured most of it in a pretty clean pan for reuse. Getting the thing clocked properly so that there is no kinked restriction was one thing, and then giving up on getting the original spring clamps over the lips of the outlets to properly locate them, replacing them with some decent quality Breeze screw clamps. The silicone hose that I suspected might be too short was a pain to wrestle off the lower radiator outlet, but twisted off the water pump with almost no effort. I am VERY glad to have that replaced, and VERY glad that I spotted it before I suffered a massive coolant loss at the lowest point of the system. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 Big maintenance day. Fresh cocktail in the 5 speed 2.5 qts motul 300 75/90 and a qt of shockproof. This 5 speed just keeps on going. It will die someday and I’ll finally put the 6 speed in. Motul 300ls in the rear end, 600 for the brakes, and 5w40 competition for the motor. Then I took it up to get some juice. Track on Friday! Such a fun wagon. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killjoy323232 Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 20 hours ago, Bobsyouruncl said: What "dodgy" about the knock sensor wiring? When I had the shop in Arlington drop the EJ20 in, I suspect they didn’t route the wiring harness under the manifold properly. I had taken the IC off to check the sensor and wiring (chasing a P0328 and drivability issues), and both the knock sensor and throttle harnesses were strained. I have a new sensor to install to see if the CEL goes away, but if not, might have to repair the harness somehow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex0856 Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 (edited) I also replaced my hatch struts this weekend, which turned in to a 4 plus hour nightmare. It was an important lesson on using impacts for small bolts. I impacted all 4 small bolts off, which it appeared had never been removed. I used the impact to start the bolts with the new struts and finished them by hand. The 4th bolt snapped the second it started to snug up. After breaking two easy outs and mangling my hatch with a drill, I hit up a welder friend for solutions. The plan was to create a nut insert to weld on to the hatch as I'd destroyed the threads that were there. Problem is, as we learned the hard way, the hatch is aluminum. It turns out that the struts are bolted on to a floating steel washer backer plate thingy that's riveted in to the dead space inside the hatch. Presumably Subaru did this because bolting the struts directly to the aluminum hatch wouldn't last. We got it out and attempted to repair it but the welds just wouldn't take. So after hours of fussing he said screw it and fabbed a new one in about 20 minutes. We painted it purple just for fun. We fished it in through the hole for the wiring grommet, bolted it down with new grade 10.9 bolts and away I went. I never knew that the hatch was supposed to open itself. Edited April 1 by alex0856 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 Holy crap! That quickly turned into a nightmare! I've changed these twice with some aftermarket units I bought online. Still not happy with these. You always have 'to assist the beginning' of the lifting, and the trunk does not always fully open. You have to push the trunk at the end of the stroke. What brand are yours? The aftermarket ones on my old Jeep Cherokee are super strong and easily open the trunk. That trunk is not light either.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 1 hour ago, alex0856 said: I also replaced my hatch struts this weekend, which turned in to a 4 plus hour nightmare. It was an important lesson on using impacts for small bolts. I impacted all 4 small bolts off, which it appeared had never been removed. I used the impact to start the bolts with the new struts and finished them by hand. The 4th bolt snapped the second it started to snug up. After breaking two easy outs and mangling my hatch with a drill, I hit up a welder friend for solutions. The plant was to create a nut insert to weld on to the hatch as I'd destroyed the threads that were there. Problem is, as we learned the hard way, the hatch is aluminum. It turns out that the struts are bolt on to a floating steel washer backer plate thingy that's riveted in to the dead space inside the hatch. Presumably Subaru did this because bolting the struts directly to the aluminum hatch wouldn't last. We got it out and attempted to repair it but the welds just wouldn't take. So after hours of fussing he said screw it and fabbed a new one in about 20 minutes. We painted it purple just for fun. We fished it in through the hole for the wiring grommet, bolted it down with new grade 10.9 bolts and away I went. I never knew that the hatch was supposed to open itself. Super annoying when what should be a 30 minute job turns into an afternoon. Lessons learned from living in the rustbelt: -If you are silly wealthy, Kroil is your best friend. - I am not silly wealthy, even a little bit, so FreeAll is my best friend. - When you have time to let things soak and settle, the old 50/50 ATF/Acetone works wonders. I've got a couple holes drilled out of the chassis of my BPs where subframe bolts did the same thing and spun the weldnut inside the body because of time + corrosion + a 36" breaker bar.... Not a good feeling when you're trying to figure out how to be able to reattach that. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 My primitive skid plate sat in the corner of my garage for over three years bc of the same issue.. Finally found a mobile welder on FB who fixed it in my driveway. Not the cleanest patch, but it works and cost was appropriate 2 EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex0856 Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 5 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said: Holy crap! That quickly turned into a nightmare! I've changed these twice with some aftermarket units I bought online. Still not happy with these. You always have 'to assist the beginning' of the lifting, and the trunk does not always fully open. You have to push the trunk at the end of the stroke. What brand are yours? The aftermarket ones on my old Jeep Cherokee are super strong and easily open the trunk. That trunk is not light either.. Tuff Support. I got them on RockAuto. They work well. The hatch will fully open after I pull it out a couple of inches. They have this annoying shudder as they slow down toward the end but that may be because mine are no longer perfectly aligned. They're strong though, closing the hatch is no longer a 1 handed maneuver which I'm fine with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 This shudder you are describing is what happened to my first aftermarket set. It was noisy. I think these are all made from the same 'made in china' company.. Just different sticker on it. I still don't think it is acceptable that you have to lift the hatch a couple of inches until the struts are able to lift the trunk. When you are carrying a bunch of stuff, it can be hard to do that vs. just having to press and barely lift the trunk handle. Please report how long these will last. Mine did not last very long and performed worse when the temps were cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex0856 Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 Will do. If these don't last l may shell out for OEM. The lowest I found them for was like 90 bucks a piece. Of course at that point I could just look in to an aftermarket electric opener/closer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 yeah, 90 bucks is steep. That's why I was not getting them. Aftermarket electric opener/closer sounds like a good alternative too. I should look into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex0856 Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 (edited) 17 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said: yeah, 90 bucks is steep. That's why I was not getting them. Aftermarket electric opener/closer sounds like a good alternative too. I should look into it. Unfortunately there are no plug and play options for our cars so it would require pretty serious modification. I think that as long as you can find a powered opener that is the same length is the strut then you'll be good. The wiring would be fairly easy too especially since our fobs have a trunk unlock button. I think the tricky part would be finding a way to adapt to our mechanical trunk latch. The system appears to tie in to vehicles that already have an electric latch. I don't believe that it's motorized. So, you'd need to find a way to have the system tell a motor to release the latch followed by a delayed operation of the powered opener. Edited April 2 by alex0856 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChicagoSam Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 (edited) Installed some JDM rainbow fogs without taking off the bumper-( a friend with small hands was able to reach up and make the swap underneath) very pleased that there were no mods/wiring issues that usually come with JDM parts swapped into the usdm Leggys. Edited April 2 by ChicagoSam 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex0856 Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 (edited) Today I sorted through my weekend pick n pull haul and started the final step in my insulation project. An 06 NA wagon showed up and it fortunately hadn't been picked clean. I've been wanting an extra set of roof rails so needless to say I was stoked to get a set for $13. I'm hoping I can get the rubber bits off in one piece so I can get them powdercoated. I'm sure I'll have spent more than the $180 it would cost to buy them new (yes you can still buy them) once it's said and done but it'll be a neat project and that's what matters. The most exciting find though was a cupholder liner. I've never had one in my car and have yet to be able to find one that wasn't trashed. I'm still beating myself up for not stripping the black interior 07 OBXT 5MT that was at the Vancouver pick n pull in January. I was in the middle of moving so that was low on the priority list, but the car had everything I would have needed for an Si drive upgrade. As for the hatch, I peeled the felt off the hatch panel, added a layer of luxury liner and put the felt back on top of that. The panel is quite heavy now so I'll be picking up new clips tomorrow to make sure everything stays tight. I've just got to add damplifier to the hatch itself and I'll be 100% done. For now anyway, until I inevitably rip out the headliner and door panels. Don't mind my fire hose, I needed it for work. Edited April 3 by alex0856 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socalsleeper Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 19 hours ago, alex0856 said: Today I sorted through my weekend pick n pull haul and started the final step in my insulation project. An 06 NA wagon showed up and it fortunately hadn't been picked clean. I've been wanting an extra set of roof rails so needless to say I was stoked to get a set for $13. I'm hoping I can get the rubber bits off in one piece so I can get them powdercoated. I'm sure I'll have spent more than the $180 it would cost to buy them new (yes you can still buy them) once it's said and done but it'll be a neat project and that's what matters. The most exciting find though was a cupholder liner. I've never had one in my car and have yet to be able to find one that wasn't trashed. I'm still beating myself up for not stripping the black interior 07 OBXT 5MT that was at the Vancouver pick n pull in January. I was in the middle of moving so that was low on the priority list, but the car had everything I would have needed for an Si drive upgrade. As for the hatch, I peeled the felt off the hatch panel, added a layer of luxury liner and put the felt back on top of that. The panel is quite heavy now so I'll be picking up new clips tomorrow to make sure everything stays tight. I've just got to add damplifier to the hatch itself and I'll be 100% done. For now anyway, until I inevitably rip out the headliner and door panels. Don't mind my fire hose, I needed it for work. What all is involved in the SI Drive? I would assume quite a bit to be complete. Gauge cluster, wiring, electronics. Is there a thread already? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex0856 Posted April 4 Share Posted April 4 1 hour ago, socalsleeper said: What all is involved in the SI Drive? I would assume quite a bit to be complete. Gauge cluster, wiring, electronics. Is there a thread already? I'm sure there is, I haven't looked. If I had another car to strip, I'd be taking the dash and cabin wiring harnesses, front seats, center console, ECM, and steering wheel. I should probably research this 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex0856 Posted April 4 Share Posted April 4 I had a surprise 12 hour work day so no stealership trip for me. I did hit the hatch with some damplifier though, so all that's left is to swap out my 3rd brake light flasher module and put the panels back on. Really looking forward to seeing how this helps with drone. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted April 4 Share Posted April 4 10 hours ago, alex0856 said: I had a surprise 12 hour work day so no stealership trip for me. I did hit the hatch with some damplifier though, so all that's left is to swap out my 3rd brake light flasher module and put the panels back on. Really looking forward to seeing how this helps with drone. My wagon became much more quiet after I did the same thing. 3 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kojak Posted April 4 Share Posted April 4 Yous guys are motivating me to swap in my OEM replacement hatch struts that have been sitting in the closet for nearly two years. Sprung for em when wallet was fat and needed some weight watchers. Mine open but slow down at the top. Tired of bumping my head. Thanks, enablers. 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 4 Share Posted April 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted April 4 Share Posted April 4 I think I might dig out my spare OEM hatch struts this summer too. I have way to much to do to the car. Good finds @alex0856. MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted April 4 Share Posted April 4 (edited) I might finally fix the rear hatch defroster now that the spring is here. Oh yes, ordered 4 HVAC actuators for my 2005 LGT with auto climate. The complete HVAC unit (06A) was more than $500 so decided against that. Edited April 4 by SubOperator 3 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex0856 Posted April 5 Share Posted April 5 15 hours ago, SubOperator said: I might finally fix the rear hatch defroster now that the spring is here. Oh yes, ordered 4 HVAC actuators for my 2005 LGT with auto climate. The complete HVAC unit (06A) was more than $500 so decided against that. What is the HVAC unit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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