What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[boxkita]

12 hours ago, tehspud said:

I forgot the most important comparison. 

 

GR Corolla forums suck, this place is way better. That's what you get with 20 years of knowledge vs 1. 

the gr86 forums are likewise. on an aero thread. after all the testing awfulwaffle did n the lgt platform, I feel like I'm feeding trolls responding to the thread.

their butt dynos are higher rated than a mustang dyno

[alex0856]

On 3/4/2024 at 3:46 PM, KZJonny said:

Pulled the engine, after minimal deliberation about how best to do the list of jobs that need doing.

Turns out the car has some surprises in it still…

This is not a dual mass flywheel… I guess I’ll be paying a visit to the machine shop to have this resurfaced?

This is kind of funny, as I’d always kind of thought the complaints about the DMFW were a little over the top. I figured the car always felt pretty darn nice. I guess that was because it was not at all what I thought it was the whole time….

What were your complaints about the DMFW, even though you didn't have one? I've never had one but I've always been curious to try one out.

[KZJonny]

54 minutes ago, alex0856 said:

What were your complaints about the DMFW, even though you didn't have one? I've never had one but I've always been curious to try one out.

Not mine, as you say, since apparently I've never had one.

Just read others saying they can be a little annoying a low RPM shifting around town, and certianly really heavy, making for lazy acceleration. But on the plus side, easy smooth shifting at normal speeds and not a lot of RPM drop, making for a lazy shift when you're not bang shifting every gear.

To me probably the worst thing is that it's hard to find a maching shop that has the equipment to properly surface them. Not many do, so depending on where you are, the principal option is often to just get a whole new one, which is pretty spendy. Also, not the greatest selection of clutches, by comparison to switching to the WRX single mass FW.

This is why I was ready to replace what I had assumed was a dual mass in my car, since I have never messed with the FW or clutch up until now. Apparently I was wrong, and I am reasonably pleasantly surprised. I'm no usually a big fan of lightened flywheels, but this one isn't so bad apparently, or I've just gotten used to it without realizing it was there.

[310Z]

I gave the LGT a few days off as I thought it would not be in it's best interest to use it to cut trail into our local ski area. So I took the supercharged Tundra with ARB lockers front and rear. With both axels locked I made it just past where the snow cat was parked so we could start clearing the parking lot.

I can't get the last photo to load right-side up.

[SubOperator]

2 hours ago, 310Z said:

I can't get the last photo to load right-side up.

 

 

 

 

Here:

[SubOperator]

DMFW made for slower acceleration but my main complaint was its main feature, that is how smooth the engagement was. It was really nice on the road but when I had to start motion going uphill it was a struggle simply because it was difficult to feel when the clutch would begin to grab.

That made for a few fantastic mornings when I had to jump across a lane of crossing traffic to the other side of the busy road coming up hill from a pit on the T intersection. Ended up changing my morning commute route.

DMFW was great for cruising but worse for spirited driving where a lot of fast shifting was required.

[SoobyDoobyDoo]

On 3/4/2024 at 9:01 PM, DoctorDaveLGT said:

Not today but over the weekend. Swapped out the bumper "vents" for an unpainted pair. Think I like the contrast better than the painted version and echos the sedan bumper. Also got the JDM cargo fan option wired up and working. This thing is sweet! Very quiet and moves a good amount of air. May have to hotbox the wagon one time to see just how much and how quickly it moves air.

Also bought some more parts over the weekend....there was an S402 getting parted on the auctions so I snagged a couple items. The Euro console style shift boot trim in gunmetal, McIntosh double-din panel (piano black), S402 radiator/AC condenser fans (S blades), and the part I'm most excited for.....HVAC control door for the rear console heater option. This piece has been on my list for a long time.

Congrats on winning that! I was hoping you’d go for it. That’s awesome you got all the other bits as well, I didn’t even realize the s402 had different fan blades fas well. It’s the little things that make the car stand out…

@SubOperator yeah…that was one of the worst mistakes I’ve made since owning the car…I have no regrets, though.

[WRX USA]

@DoctorDaveLGT I have a lot of those rear console vent parts, minus the control door but I never got too far down the rabbit hole to figure out what is needed to make them work because it seems like everything needed is for a RHD car. Have you figured out a way to make it work?

Edited March 7 by WRX USA

[DoctorDaveLGT]

@WRX USA Not yet, still in the exploratory stages and we're leaving the dash apart for when the control door arrives. I'm with you on the LHD/RHD specific ducting as I already had some pieces from the pic before I won the auction. Actually told them to throw out the whole center console and just ship the control door with the shifter surround ducting pieces to save some shipping costs. Haven't been able to track down a LHD version of the piece that sits directly under the cup holders. We're hoping the ducting that surrounds the shifter isn't off that much even though I already confirmed there are LHD/RHD versions through Subaru part #s.

The biggest piece we're concerned about is getting the control door to work and I'm really hoping there isn't a difference between JDM & USDM hvac motors to where a JDM motor is required to make it work. Admittadly, your question just made me realize I haven't even looked at the USDM HVAC to see if there is a spot for the control door to mount. So fingers crossed on that one ha.

If it comes down to just ducting issues our plan is to doing some custom flexible ducting or trim and plastic weld certain areas to compensate for the LHD/RHD differences. I'll still look for LHD pieces but my search efforts for the past 2 years has been fruitless.

[DoctorDaveLGT]

@SoobyDoobyDoo Thanks! I honestly didn't know the S402 came with different ones either until they popped up on the auction one time a few months ago and I started looking into it. They should definitely move more air than the OEM 5 blade fans.

Little interesting fact though is the part numbers for these show that they were also used on USDM cars so they should be available state-side and new. I went with these because even after shipping they should net out cheaper.

AC Fan & Motor Assembly # - 73310FG001

S402 Radiator Fan Part #'s (It doesn't appear Subaru sells this as a whole assembly, but haven't spent a ton of time researching)

 - Fan # - 45121FG000

 - Shroud # - 45122FG001

 - Motor # - 45131FG001

 

Edited March 7 by DoctorDaveLGT

[ChicagoSam]

Cool! Never knew the s402 had smaller tweaks to components like the fan blades(thought the engine cover/ecu/some badging/strut bar and turbo were the only under the hood upgrades)- great grab. Thanks much for the Stateside part numbers.

Was tempted to get the washer tanks and hosing for the jam headlights. There was also a VF-58 on the Japan Yahoo auction that was of course very pricey. I have too much hay already in the car to get a loan for the vf58. One day..

Today I drilled out the 4 screws out of the alternator cover to remove the face for power coating. (Harder and harder to find oem alternators these days). One screw really didn't want to come out. 

Edited March 7 by ChicagoSam

[Febreze Mee]

Wow! Tons of activity in here last weekend. It's nice to see all the updates, and activity increase from some of the older members.

On 3/1/2024 at 3:48 PM, Pleides said:

Seems like everybody is abandoning their LGTs 

Ye lads be needin' to hold fast. Ay! Indeed, the storm of [electric] Currents draws nigh. T'would be a shame to not own a classic well into it's 30's.

2 hours ago, ChicagoSam said:

Today I drilled out the 4 screws out of the alternator cover to remove the face for power coating. (Harder and harder to find oem alternators these days)...

Curious to see how yours turn out. I really wanted to do this last year, but did not have the time, and completely FUBAR'd my spare.

[Infosecdad]

Now testing out the Genome STi axleback.

Definitely louder than the Quad STi, with lots of crackle in 1st and 2nd off throttle, good rumble.

I still like the Gandor Titanium best, those are going back on soon.

[Code]

My LGT is back on the road.

installed the iBR flex01 kit   New flexfuel controller and wiring harness   Install was super simple and ethanol readings are identical to what I was seeing prior to the Cobb hardware failure   
 

im not sure what caused the issue but the Cobb harness fried itself and melted the wiring from rear o2 12v input to the controller.    
 

ibuildracecars.com makes a very slick replacement controller and harness   Their unit does not pull 12v from o2, instead it draws from the TGV +5v  to power the ethanol sensor  I just wish it came in blue or black.  The company is based in Pittsburgh,  which makes me proud to support a local enthusiast   
 

 

 

[SoobyDoobyDoo]

That wiring kit looks pretty slick and too notch. Glad your car back on the road! 
 

@Febreze Mee x2 on it being nice seeing lots of activity. taking about classics well into their 30s…I’ve been collecting parts for my 85 s10. Goal is to daily it during the summer so I can park the LGT for a while to hopefully address some things that have been needing to be addressed and get some things on that came from JPN auction. Hard to believe the LGT will be 20 next year…. Still loving it though and I wouldn’t want anything newer. I’d rather just fix something up, even if it were a PITA. Classics FTW!

[seanyb505]

A lot of the 05s have 2004 build dates. My model year 2005 will turn 20 years in 3 months... 

[Infosecdad]

The STi Genomes clean up really nice with some metal polish.

 

Unfortunately, I didn't look at my HKS mid-pipe from Japan close enough before buying it.  It's only for the HKS Super Turbo axleback which I don't have.  The connections are not in the stock locations.

Lesson learned, now I need to decide to either put the mid-pipe for sale or find a set of Super Turbo Mufflers to see what they sound like.

[tehspud]

Alright, I’m at a weird point. I replaced one of my Konis and now the ride feels better. I started tearing the engine down so I could pull the intake manifold to fix the smelly fuel lines, change the pcv, and turbo inlet. However I’m not very confident in my ability to do this. I’ve read through the service manual entry, I’ve seen some YouTube videos, though nothing super great as far as walkthrough goes. I can get everything buttoned back up, and leave it how it is. 

What’s I’m worried about is how that would affect the sale, if I was going full disclosure that the fuel lines leak a bit in cold weather, and included the turbo inlet and pcv valve with the note that these should be put on soon. I started to do them because I didn’t want to leave it to the next owner, but I’m getting a lot of pressure from my wife about getting the wagon up for sale… Any thoughts? 

[Bobsyouruncl]

Roll the dice? 

You might be surprised by what you can do. Or you take a price hit on sale. Seems like your only two options. 

[SubOperator]

Sounds like it would be easier to sell as is with disclosure and parts provided. It is not a difficult job to do but it takes time.

[BoozeRS05]

Send it out to a good Subaru shop? An experienced mechanic could likely accomplish these items for a couple hundred bucks I’d think. 

[KZJonny]

12 hours ago, SubOperator said:

Sounds like it would be easier to sell as is with disclosure and parts provided. It is not a difficult job to do but it takes time.

+1 to this one.

Take a bunch of photos. A set of hose pliers makes the job a LOT easier, but aside from that, I just pulled my intake manifold + associated fuelling stuff last weekend. Took an afternoon of working very slowly, while having a beer or two.

On the other hand, if this is end of Subaru for you, the learning experience may not be worth the time... seeing how all that is set up was of benefit for me, and let's me do all the fuel line + vacuum line replacement while I am in there.

[GearJamr]

So, a tale of woe.  

A few weeks ago, my wife was driving the LGT and noticed the brake pedal was "soft".  She continued toward home, and (thankfully) was going slowly and leaving room ahead.  Brakes failed.  Pedal went to the floor with minimal change in speed.  She used the parking brake and the horn to cruise through a red light.  Fortunately her quick thinking and action prevented anyone or anything getting injured.

So, she got it to a parking lot and we then got it towed to the garage.  Flatbed driver thought she was crazy since the brakes came back while he was maneuvering the car to get it on the truck.  Drove it up the flatbed and when he tried to stop rolling back - it kept going!  

So, the rear brake line blew.  Garage ran the VIN and the recall had been performed in 2016, before I owned it.  So they replaced the brake line, the junction box, repaired a small section of the front brake line and put undercoat on the lines.  While in there, they suggested changing the fuel tank as the seams were starting to separate.  Already out to diagnose and change the lines, let's do it.  Filler neck also had a crack - but somehow not leaking.  Replaced that, and the pump and basket assembly also cracked.  

So a bunch done all at once.  The new pump is not thrilling me - takes a good 1-2 seconds longer to fire than before.  Guess that upgraded fuel pump will need to go in soon.  My garage now has a policy to not install customer supplied parts due to bad experiences otherwise I would have had them do it while they had the basket out.

As soon as the weather gets consistently warmer, first up will be getting the antenna harness in the hatch replaced and hopefully get my radio signals strong again.  Gonna have to spend either a lot of time working on the car or money to get someone else to do it. 

[KZJonny]

24 minutes ago, GearJamr said:

So, a tale of woe.  

A few weeks ago, my wife was driving the LGT and noticed the brake pedal was "soft".  She continued toward home, and (thankfully) was going slowly and leaving room ahead.  Brakes failed.  Pedal went to the floor with minimal change in speed.  She used the parking brake and the horn to cruise through a red light.  Fortunately her quick thinking and action prevented anyone or anything getting injured.

So, she got it to a parking lot and we then got it towed to the garage.  Flatbed driver thought she was crazy since the brakes came back while he was maneuvering the car to get it on the truck.  Drove it up the flatbed and when he tried to stop rolling back - it kept going!  

So, the rear brake line blew.  Garage ran the VIN and the recall had been performed in 2016, before I owned it.  So they replaced the brake line, the junction box, repaired a small section of the front brake line and put undercoat on the lines.  While in there, they suggested changing the fuel tank as the seams were starting to separate.  Already out to diagnose and change the lines, let's do it.  Filler neck also had a crack - but somehow not leaking.  Replaced that, and the pump and basket assembly also cracked.  

So a bunch done all at once.  The new pump is not thrilling me - takes a good 1-2 seconds longer to fire than before.  Guess that upgraded fuel pump will need to go in soon.  My garage now has a policy to not install customer supplied parts due to bad experiences otherwise I would have had them do it while they had the basket out.

As soon as the weather gets consistently warmer, first up will be getting the antenna harness in the hatch replaced and hopefully get my radio signals strong again.  Gonna have to spend either a lot of time working on the car or money to get someone else to do it. 

Yikes!

I had the same happen a couple years ago, but it was on the way back home froma dinner, and late in the evening. Same deal, brakes failed = use handbrake to get to a service station. Realize rear line is busted, so top up brake fluid and drive the rest of the way without using brakes, more or less. Not the most fun.

Fuel pump is easy at least. so long as there aren't any crack in the top housing of the pump, it's like... an hour to to do the job.

[SubOperator]

On 3/12/2024 at 3:00 PM, GearJamr said:

So, a tale of woe.  

A few weeks ago, my wife was driving the LGT and noticed the brake pedal was "soft".  She continued toward home, and (thankfully) was going slowly and leaving room ahead.  Brakes failed.  Pedal went to the floor with minimal change in speed.  She used the parking brake and the horn to cruise through a red light.  Fortunately her quick thinking and action prevented anyone or anything getting injured.

So, she got it to a parking lot and we then got it towed to the garage.  Flatbed driver thought she was crazy since the brakes came back while he was maneuvering the car to get it on the truck.  Drove it up the flatbed and when he tried to stop rolling back - it kept going!  

So, the rear brake line blew.  Garage ran the VIN and the recall had been performed in 2016, before I owned it.  So they replaced the brake line, the junction box, repaired a small section of the front brake line and put undercoat on the lines.  While in there, they suggested changing the fuel tank as the seams were starting to separate.  Already out to diagnose and change the lines, let's do it.  Filler neck also had a crack - but somehow not leaking.  Replaced that, and the pump and basket assembly also cracked.  

So a bunch done all at once.  The new pump is not thrilling me - takes a good 1-2 seconds longer to fire than before.  Guess that upgraded fuel pump will need to go in soon.  My garage now has a policy to not install customer supplied parts due to bad experiences otherwise I would have had them do it while they had the basket out.

As soon as the weather gets consistently warmer, first up will be getting the antenna harness in the hatch replaced and hopefully get my radio signals strong again.  Gonna have to spend either a lot of time working on the car or money to get someone else to do it. 

Glad wife made it to parking safe. Exact same thing happened to my middle son's 2010 Outback. I was able to talk SOA into covering $500 towards all brake lines swap as a good will gesture, the car was long out of warranty.

Do you mind sharing how much did it cost you to get all brake lines, fuel tank and filler neck replaced? I have to do the same thing as my tank got smelly. Did the garage put OEM parts on it?

My local dealer is not feeling hot about doing the job for some reason.