What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[Infosecdad]

1 hour ago, WRX USA said:

You could always swap to the Laille Beatrush rear frame end bar: 

https://beatrushusa.com/products/beatrush-rear-frame-end-bar-2004-legacy-bp5-bl5?_pos=4&_sid=4d6049824&_ss=r

https://www.blackhawkjapan.com/collections/beatrush/products/laile-beatrush-s86103pb-ra

I need one of those some day...

[KZJonny]

59 minutes ago, Infosecdad said:

I need one of those some day...

Yes.... but yowza!

You guys and your bags full on money.

Ima spend that $800 CAD on some pipe, + fresh argon bottle and make one myself...

With the remaining $650 I'll get some proper Champagne and caviar to celebrate the install.

Then I'll go burn 3 tanks of fuel just because I can. 

[Infosecdad]

1 minute ago, KZJonny said:

Yes.... but yowza!

You guys and your bags full on money.

Ima spend that $800 CAD on some pipe, + fresh argon bottle and make one myself...

With the remaining $650 I'll get some proper Champagne and caviar to celebrate the install.

Then I'll go burn 3 tanks of fuel just because I can. 

I mean, there is a reason why I don't have one... hahaha

I'll probably fab up something similar with the welder this summer if I get a break from work and feel like welding in 90-degree weather.

[WRX USA]

1 hour ago, KZJonny said:

Yes.... but yowza!

You guys and your bags full on money.

Ima spend that $800 CAD on some pipe, + fresh argon bottle and make one myself...

With the remaining $650 I'll get some proper Champagne and caviar to celebrate the install.

Then I'll go burn 3 tanks of fuel just because I can. 

Wow, I didn’t realize the exchange rate is 4:1!

Edited April 16 by WRX USA

[KZJonny]

11 minutes ago, WRX USA said:

Wow, I don’t realize the exchange rate is 4:1!

 

Am I being really dense here or something?

How does the price go from $530 USD to $133 USD?!

[KZJonny]

Riiiiiight. That’s how.

That is the mother of all markups when buying domestically!

It’s also not such a bad deal anymore. Materials alone would be like $75 CAD.

[WRX USA]

17 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

Riiiiiight. That’s how.

That is the mother of all markups when buying domestically!

It’s also not such a bad deal anymore. Materials alone would be like $75 CAD.

That’s why I included the second link. 

[alex0856]

The trans is ready to go in. Replacing the oil seal on the linkage was pretty annoying but I got it without damaging anything. I attempted the screw trick but there's just not enough meat to get a proper bite without risking marring up the linkage or housing. I found that a heat gun, a shaved down pick, and patience was the way to go.

Last night I put in new rack bushings, shifter joint, trans mount bushings, and tore down my short shifter. The bushings are pretty new but the metal needed cleaning and the grommet that goes on the tunnel badly needed replacing. I didn't expect to be able to get that part new but it turns out Subaru still uses it in other cars. Go figure.

I'm on the road for work today so no shop time tonight. Tomorrow everything should be coming together.

[Kojak]

Don’t go the Corolla route

 

[05gtripper]

3333k mikes on my stage 2+ Spec Clutch & flywheel- wanted to share for others in future.  Holding strong. 

Took whip into the car shop for a new rack & pinion, steering pump & alignment.   Fricken couldnt finish the job in 8 hrs due to them tryna buy new swingarm bushing that yes, were 100% clapped.  But like.. did I ask? Lol hopefully makes a diff.   

   Pulled a bunch of data logging the other day- tryna perfect my MAF & also figure out why the engine / 02 wideband reads 2.0+(lean) when decel/ no throttle.    Seems that's the case almost everywhere/always.   But like why would I want my engine lean af for sometimes 5mins plus (engine breaking down a ski hill mtn)..   i can go 60mph & shift to N-- back to 1 lambda/14.7afr.   Now i go 60 & let off gas-- wideband afr goes above 1.8 lambda/lean af.     Idk if this is like a 'science' thing im unaware of or not..      maybe not best place to post all this..      

 

Going all 4 brake calipers & rptors next.     

Also-- any using a solid drive line in the 05lgt?? (Thoughts) Found a website that makes solids for nearly every model but 05 lgt.   

[alex0856]

6 hours ago, Kojak said:

Don’t go the Corolla route

 

Never. After this go round of remodeling there will be very few plastic and rubber pieces left to replace. When I did my suspension and brake overhaul it felt like a brand new car. I'm expecting it to drive like a dream.

Also, I'm in way too deep at this point. Sunk cost isn't a fallacy in this context, it's a way of life.

[KZJonny]

Anybody have a part number for the small coolant hose that runs from the bottom of the turbo coolant reservoir, from the bottom, back into the coolant pipes bolted to the top of the engine block?  I suppose it is the feed hose coming from the pump... Nothing on Opposed Forces. #3 in the image.

Much thanks.

[Infosecdad]

6 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

Anybody have a part number for the small coolant hose that runs from the bottom of the turbo coolant reservoir, from the bottom, back into the coolant pipes bolted to the top of the engine block?  I suppose it is the feed hose coming from the pump... Nothing on Opposed Forces. #3 in the image.

Much thanks.

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-GT-LIMITEDOBKXT-WAGON/_54102_6030712/WATER-PIPE-1/B13-036-02.html

14472AA040

[SoobyDoobyDoo]

On 4/18/2024 at 5:51 PM, Kojak said:

Don’t go the Corolla route

 

this is excellent! Lost Higgins, lost Hutch….lets not lose anymore!

Edited April 20 by SoobyDoobyDoo

[KZJonny]

4 minutes ago, Infosecdad said:

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-GT-LIMITEDOBKXT-WAGON/_54102_6030712/WATER-PIPE-1/B13-036-02.html

14472AA040

Thanks! I need to use that site more. I usually buy from https://parts.subaruonlineparts.com/ because they're geographically close to me, so things ship quickly. 

But they don't have those nice breakdown diagrams. I'll remember that for next time.

[alex0856]

Getting very very close. And feeling grateful for kind and patient friends. I had been hoping to be able to drive the car to my grandfather's interment yesterday but it just wasn't in the cards. He always liked my car and always had fast and impractical cars himself. I wish I would have had the chance to take him for a ride in it, but that's okay. A word of advice to all - call your grandparents/parents/elderly friends and relatives today. They've simultaneously got lots of time and limited time, and they'd love to hear from you.

Back to business - The trans and driveshaft are in, with new bushings to boot. My subframe was like a wet noodle before (I pulled it off the trans in one piece) but now it's much firmer. I'm expecting a solid improvement in handling.

Tonight I blew 3 hours trying to replace a CV axle boot that I accidentally tore. Unfortunately an OE boot would not fit my aftermarket axle so I decided to fill the small tear with gray gasket maker for now. Since I've got two new boots I'll probably hit pick N pull for an axle and rebuild it.

The inlet and AOS are all set, just need to make connections and decide on how I'm going to reroute the wiring harness.

Question for all - does your shift linkage have this much play between the washer and trans bracket? I had lightly sanded mine before reinstalling to remove some built up surface rust. My bushings fit snugly in to the linkage itself but I've got this gap and can't say if it was there before. The linkage has about 2mm of lateral play. The bushings are almost new. If that's supposed to be solid then I suppose I'll buy a new one.

Edited April 22 by alex0856

[KZJonny]

5 hours ago, alex0856 said:

Getting very very close. And feeling grateful for kind and patient friends. I had been hoping to be able to drive the car to my grandfather's interment yesterday but it just wasn't in the cards. He always liked my car and always had fast and impractical cars himself. I wish I would have had the chance to take him for a ride in it, but that's okay. A word of advice to all - call your grandparents/parents/elderly friends and relatives today. They've simultaneously got lots of time and limited time, and they'd love to hear from you.

Back to business - The trans and driveshaft are in, with new bushings to boot. My subframe was like a wet noodle before (I pulled it off the trans in one piece) but now it's much firmer. I'm expecting a solid improvement in handling.

Tonight I blew 3 hours trying to replace a CV axle boot that I accidentally tore. Unfortunately an OE boot would not fit my aftermarket axle so I decided to fill the small tear with gray gasket maker for now. Since I've got two new boots I'll probably hit pick N pull for an axle and rebuild it.

The inlet and AOS are all set, just need to make connections and decide on how I'm going to reroute the wiring harness.

Question for all - does your shift linkage have this much play between the washer and trans bracket? I had lightly sanded mine before reinstalling to remove some built up surface rust. My bushings fit snugly in to the linkage itself but I've got this gap and can't say if it was there before. The linkage has about 2mm of lateral play. The bushings are almost new. If that's supposed to be solid then I suppose I'll buy a new one.

I recall my bushings looking a lot like that on install, but I can have a look this evening to confirm. Car is on a lift, so it's not so hard for me to get to that stuff atm...

[310Z]

Up date time. Last week the LGT though only at 52,000 miles the last time the timing belt had been replaced we eight years ago. In the process of planning this maintenance I ran into an old friend that informed me there was a Subaru Certified Mechanic that was running a shop in the town we grew up in. Then two mechanic friends recommended this guy said they take their wife's Subaru's there. So I had the pulleys, tension pulley, water pump, and belt replaced with original Subaru parts.

Then I did an oil change and as the weather was cooperating I broke out a lip spoiler I purchased during the winter and installed it.

[310Z]

To complete the week I washed the car Sunday morning. Then my wife and I took a drive from the mountains to the valley. The spring time bugs were an issue.

[BoozeRS05]

I had my yearly inspection this morning and had two failures. My washer sprayer didn’t work, which took about 16 minutes to fix (broken section of hose behind hood scoop), but my hood won’t latch now.

I’ve used lube, obviously, but it’s still not catching. I removed the mechanism and cleaned it, I’ve tried shimming the upper clip to move it further into the locking mechanism, and also adjusting the locking mechanism upwards. Still won’t catch. It looks like the pull cable is loose and not pulling the lock fully closed.

Maybe it’s time to replace the hood lock? Any other suggestions?

[xt2005bonbon]

That's strange. You may have to retrace your steps when you were fixing the washer sprayer. Maybe you messed up something?

As for me: my supposedly Timken brand rear wheel bearing lasted a whopping 10K miles . Full of play. Bought it on eBay. Has 'Timken' brand and manufacturing date stamped on wheel bearing. Looks legit, but definitely crap. The one before that lasted a week! I'll have to buy my bearings from Napa next time..

Edited Tuesday at 08:03 PM by xt2005bonbon

[KZJonny]

7 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

That's strange. You may have to retrace your steps when you were fixing the washer sprayer. Maybe you messed up something?

As for me: my supposedly Timken brand rear wheel bearing lasted a whopping 10K miles . Full of play. Bought it on eBay. Has 'Timken' brand and manufacturing date stamped on wheel bearing. Looks legit, but definitely crap. The one before that lasted a week! I'll have to buy my bearings from Napa next time..

Oh man. That’s bad. Ebay fakes have gotten pretty good or bad, depending on which side of it you’re on.

Rockauto has Timkens and SKF sometimes too. I’ve got mine from them, and have a few years on all of them. No trouble yet.

[rhino6303]

9 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

That's strange. You may have to retrace your steps when you were fixing the washer sprayer. Maybe you messed up something?

As for me: my supposedly Timken brand rear wheel bearing lasted a whopping 10K miles . Full of play. Bought it on eBay. Has 'Timken' brand and manufacturing date stamped on wheel bearing. Looks legit, but definitely crap. The one before that lasted a week! I'll have to buy my bearings from Napa next time..

I only buy BCA wheel bearings now.

[xt2005bonbon]

My last set of rear wheel bearings lasted quite a while, close to a 100k. And I have a lot of dead weight in the trunk too (~150 lbs); also rocking quite negative camber as well for them canyons . Not sure if the latter add more strains to the wheel bearings..

My front ones are currently some NTN ones I got on ebay. 46k miles so far. I usually get everything from ebay and very rarely encounter any problem. Will keep in mind rockauto though.

rhino, where do you source your BCA wheel bearings from?

Edited Tuesday at 08:24 PM by xt2005bonbon

[310Z]

4 hours ago, BoozeRS05 said:

I had my yearly inspection this morning and had two failures. My washer sprayer didn’t work, which took about 16 minutes to fix (broken section of hose behind hood scoop), but my hood won’t latch now.

I’ve used lube, obviously, but it’s still not catching. I removed the mechanism and cleaned it, I’ve tried shimming the upper clip to move it further into the locking mechanism, and also adjusting the locking mechanism upwards. Still won’t catch. It looks like the pull cable is loose and not pulling the lock fully closed.

Maybe it’s time to replace the hood lock? Any other suggestions?

Sounds like you lubed the lock mechanism? But is the cable what needs lube. If it is not moving freely it may keep the lock from latching.