310Z

Sounds like you lubed the lock mechanism? But is the cable what needs lube. If it is not moving freely it may keep the lock from latching.

To complete the week I washed the car Sunday morning. Then my wife and I took a drive from the mountains to the valley. The spring time bugs were an issue.

Up date time. Last week the LGT though only at 52,000 miles the last time the timing belt had been replaced we eight years ago. In the process of planning this maintenance I ran into an old friend that informed me there was a Subaru Certified Mechanic that was running a shop in the town we grew up in. Then two mechanic friends recommended this guy said they take their wife's Subaru's there. So I had the pulleys, tension pulley, water pump, and belt replaced with original Subaru parts. Then I did an oil change and as the weather was cooperating I broke out a lip spoiler I purchased during the winter and installed it.

OR they find out you have a car trailer with proper tie down straps.

Very cleanly done!

Oh! You did not back into the parking spot in the traditional Japanese way, maybe that is why you were snubbed. I mean besides you car is waaaaaaay cooler, classic, and rare. His is a dime a dozen and ugly.

Well, they just look better and that counts for something.

I try to act close to my age but I frequently fail. But when leaving a car show I always behave for at least a 1/4 mile as there is always LEO laying in wait.

We have been having 60-70 degree weather so I took the car cover off. Put the Summer wheel package on then got a hose out washed and dried the LGT. Then took it for a spin windows and sun roof open. I think I will do a little vacuuming today of the interior.

I gave the LGT a few days off as I thought it would not be in it's best interest to use it to cut trail into our local ski area. So I took the supercharged Tundra with ARB lockers front and rear. With both axels locked I made it just past where the snow cat was parked so we could start clearing the parking lot. I can't get the last photo to load right-side up.

Katzkin makes some really nice seat covers. They do not post any for Subaru but you can send your information into them to see if they will make you something.

Ya know those days you are glad you are in a narrow, nimble, car with good acceleration. Yesterday was one of those days. I was driving home on a remote two lane in the LGT. I was behind a new non-turbo Subaru with paper plates and they were behind a motor home. The car in front of me had peeked around the motor home a few time over many miles as if looking to pass but there was traffic coming. So we come to a long straight with no traffic and the car in front of me does not move left to look no blinker so I drop to 4 gear as there is more than a mile that I can see so no need to grab 3. Had I dropped to 3 rd I would have been further around the car when the following occurred. I was above 3000 RPM in 4 th and went to pass the car in front of me and the motor-home. Just as I am overtaking the car in front of me they turn on their blinker. I saw one blink out of the right corner of the front window as I am accelerating by them. They never looked to the left, never looked in their mirror as the car pulls out to pass the motor-home. We know how fast our cars accelerate And my right foot is on the floor so you can guess how fast I was going as the car I am along side pulled out to pass. As they pulled into the space I am occupying their front bumper was at about the back of my front passenger door. So luckily there was a 4 foot paved shoulder and I put the LGT's tires at the very edge of the roadway. I was around the Subaru prior to them even getting to the back of the motor-home. Then I was able to put the LGT back in the lane while I proceeded around the motor-home and continued on my way home. Had I been in my truck as I had planned on driving the car would have hit my rock sliders as there would not have been enough room for a full size truck and their car in the space available.

Put the wheels yesterday to take some photos and take a short drive. The fitment is great. SSR GT7 from 2003-4, 17x7.5-+ 50 offset with 225-45-17. In the photos with a string line dropping from the finder you can see a 2-3 cm gap.

I lived in Bellingham for a spring and summer back in 1985 or 6. I built the Simiahmoo golf course in Blane WA and lived in Birch Bay the year prior. I liked the area until the sky turned gray in the fall and it appeared like it stayed that way until spring.

POR 15 does a good job of protecting but is is a nasty paint to work with. POR 15 dries with humidity and without moisture in the air it stays tacky. It is extremely arid where I live and I painted a engine block and it would still leave finger prints three weeks later. So I read more about this product that informed me the product likes a specific amount of humidly to dry. The first summer rain storm we had the paint finally set up like a rock and still looks great 15 years later. Most people think the block is powder coated, just a lot of prep work POR 15 and a paint brush.

Thank you for the information. I will cheek the PCV valve. Would having too much oil in the pan cause this? This dip stick reads just like my Tundra. One side shows full and the other side shows in the middle of the high and low marks. So I had the side showing in the middle up to the top and the other side showing about 1/2 in above full. That is when I would get the smell. I changed the oil last week and now I have the oil on the high side of the dip stick at the full mark. I put a few hundred miles on the car yesterday and did not notice the smell. I may have solved my own issue.

I got the tires installed on the wheels this morning and took some photos with the wheels standing next to the car. I also got the windows tinted and wished I had gone with a darker shade. However visibility from the inside is great. I did go with the highest level of infrared blocking. So it is what it is at this point.

OOPS next Tuesday 2024

Does anyone have any experience with a preferred model of an air oil separator? The reason I ask is My car is stock with a Cobb stage 1 tune. When I have been on the throttle above 3000 RPM and then come to a stop you can smell oil burning while the car is still idling. There are no leaks. I assume this is oil getting into the intake system, intercooler and so on. I never notice any decreased oil on the dip stick so it is very small amounts of oil being burned but you can smell the burned oil inside and outside the car. Is this common? Will an air oil separator resolve this oil burning smell issue? Or am I looking at some other issue?

I am scheduled for 2-13-24 to drive a 100 miles drop off my wheels and get a set of Michelin Pilot PS2 225-45-17 installed on my SSR GT7 7.5x17 -50 offset, then I drop off the LGT to have the windows tinted. Think I will go with a 50% tint. Walk across the street to a doctors appointment. Walk back and pick up the car, then the tires and wheels and then a 100 mile return trip home. Then I will post some photos of the results. The wheels and tires are not going on the car until springtime in the mountains as the tires are a summer only tire and I don't want to mess up the newly refinished wheels.

I would assume that your streaky windshield has streaks in the pattern of where your wipers run? My 14 year old Tundra has that on the original windshield. If that is the issue you need a new windshield. Hard water spot cleaner is not going to fix that. But it can make the un-streaked area better. However, to see mild hard water spots you need to look closely and from different angles. Severe water spots just look like the whole window is hazy, you cannot see clearly inside your vehicle. If the window does not appear completely clear you could benefit from a lot of hard work rubbing a compound as I or SubOperator have suggested. It can be a fatiguing job and I recommend a window or two a day. Your hands and shoulders will be much happier than trying the whole car at once. Once you get a 6x6 area perfectly clean ( complete uniformity with buffing, No little lines that the buffing compound piles up ageist making the water mark more visable) you see the difference. Then your wet weather vision is so much clearer when the water beads up and wants to flow off the car.

When I got my car I spent about a month cleaning and up grading things. When it came to the windows I found this water spot remover in the hardware store. It takes some elbow work but this product works better than any other water spot remover I have tried. I was worried about the frame-less windows also but the installer said he has done many and not had problems so I will find out.

Great photo! Your car looks great. That is about exactly the level of tint I am thinking about. The last time I was down there on the water front I had my Tundra and the back window rolls down, I have a camper shell and my 135 lb Male Akita was in the bed of the truck and had access to the cab. I walked back to the truck to pay a parking meter and saw a newer nice car had the passenger window broken out about three vehicles in front of mine. I guess that crook thought my Tundra and Akita was more than they wanted to deal with.

They actually use the mag chloride in CA also. It does not appear to be as bad as salt. When the temps get above freezing I brake out the hose and spray the under carriage of my winter cars until the water is running clean. That has worked well for about 45 years.

Good to know about the dash. Do you know what percent of tint you have? And do you have photos? I live in the mountains north of Tahoe so snow and ice are a way of life even in CA we do see road salt. But I am trying to protect this car and not drive it when the salt is on the road.