What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[Nonamedude]

Well after about three weeks the wagon is up again. Mostly thanks to awfulwaffle for getting the old stripped stud out and also having the elbow I needed for the turbo inlet.

 

New turbo inlet, throttle body hose, grimmspeed up pipe, and put in the sensor for the oil pressure gauge. Nice to drive it again.

 

 

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[bubbagump]

Got my car back on jack stands tonight. After joyriding my new turbo/downpipe stage 2 thing for a couple weeks and 1k miles I noticed how aged everything really is. LCA bushings shot, one of the tie rods had a little play.

 

Then I remembered I have Bilsteins from some JDM Legacy in my shed, along with some aluminum control arms (also with shot bushings it turns out).

 

Then I broke some stuff, so now it looks like basically everything will be replaced. Knuckle(s?), wheel bearing(s?), tie rods, control arms, control arm bushings, ball joints, caliper(s?), ummm I'm sure I'm missing something. It kinda sucks you can't buy just the caliper bracket for a decent price.

 

So, question...OEM or aftermarket bushings? Wouldn't want to increase noise much, if there is something that has some handling gain without giving up much comfort. Need to do some reading, feel free to leave any input though.

[Infosecdad]

Wow, where have STi seats been all my time with my LGT?

 

I picked up a pair of front seats from a 2011 STi in excellent condition.

I managed to get the driver's seat installed last night (still hurting from that today)

The improvement is ridiculously good... So much more support.

It's the difference between sitting on the seat and sitting in the seat.

 

Now I need to do the airbag dance. I kinda wish I had the foresight to gut my old tan seats that went to the scrapper last year. Now I have to decide whether to try to source the parts or steal parts of my old seats. I kinda hate to destroy a working set of seats, but I also want my airbag system to work.

 

Has anyone ever tested the resistance of the driver position slider sensor? I only see people remove it from their old seat to reuse, was curious if there was another way.

[05MNLGT]

As someone who is 85% done with this project make sure you get all the little bits too. Those are the ones that kill the momentum. I replaced most of the fasteners, and all the bushings under the car. I also painted a bunch of stuff way over kill but my OCD gets the best of me.

 

Guess I must be over the top OCD or just enjoy building.

 

Was going to repainting it because I had done patch work on left side and wasn't happy with my last paint job, the little things. Found more rust on inside left quarter panel in a different rear while prepping. Once these panels get rust, it's a cancer.

 

Stopped the project and ordered a whole new quarter. At this point, I'm going to do both qtrs as good measure and treat the @#$ out of them. It's the long view when you love the car and never plan to sell.

 

Been replacing everything as I go along. fender bolts to clips, door handles to speakers, even the door moldings are new ($50ea.). Planning roughly a year to complete it. Probably close to $2000 so far in hardware alone (even with discount).

 

When little, love building car model kits, Revell ones. Beginning to end. Who knew that I would be doing the same thing later in life, just on a grander scale.

[socalsleeper]

Got my car back on jack stands tonight. After joyriding my new turbo/downpipe stage 2 thing for a couple weeks and 1k miles I noticed how aged everything really is. LCA bushings shot, one of the tie rods had a little play.

 

Then I remembered I have Bilsteins from some JDM Legacy in my shed, along with some aluminum control arms (also with shot bushings it turns out).

 

Then I broke some stuff, so now it looks like basically everything will be replaced. Knuckle(s?), wheel bearing(s?), tie rods, control arms, control arm bushings, ball joints, caliper(s?), ummm I'm sure I'm missing something. It kinda sucks you can't buy just the caliper bracket for a decent price.

 

So, question...OEM or aftermarket bushings? Wouldn't want to increase noise much, if there is something that has some handling gain without giving up much comfort. Need to do some reading, feel free to leave any input though.

 

 

I have a pair of brand new OEM outer tie rod ends, and a pair of freshy painted black calipers on hand. They came off my California car, and were removed in favor of Brembos.

send me a PM if your are interested.

[BoozeRS05]

I'd probably grab those calipers from you if not. I need to replace my Forester front calipers and I think the LGT setup is a direct fit. I have pads and rotors. Why not..

[socalsleeper]

I'd probably grab those calipers from you if not. I need to replace my Forester front calipers and I think the LGT setup is a direct fit. I have pads and rotors. Why not..

 

Sounds good, I need to oven cure the paint (per the instructions on the can). I need to do the same with my brembos I am refinishing. I should have that done very soon, just waiting on the high temp decals to come in.

 

They are black BTW.

[bubbagump]

I have a pair of brand new OEM outer tie rod ends, and a pair of freshy painted black calipers on hand. They came off my California car, and were removed in favor of Brembos.

send me a PM if your are interested.

 

Calipers : I already have some remans coming in from Rock Auto. Can let BoozeRS have them if he's interested. Thanks though!

Tie rods : Already have MOOG inner and outers on hand, thanks though!

 

Guess I should post on here before buying. Will take note. I'll have a bunch more stuff when I get to the rear end of the car I am assuming.

[SubOperator]

So, question...OEM or aftermarket bushings? Wouldn't want to increase noise much, if there is something that has some handling gain without giving up much comfort. Need to do some reading, feel free to leave any input though.

 

 

 

 

I run STI LCA bushings. Firmer than stock, not as firm/noisy as WL.

[bubbagump]

I run STI LCA bushings. Firmer than stock, not as firm/noisy as WL.

 

Do you think it would be ok to run around with STI front bushings and my shot stock rear bushings or would it mess up the dynamics real bad to have the front and rear so different?

 

Eventually I want to replace like everything - front and rear subframe bushings, diff/trans bushings, rear suspension components with nice shiny aluminum things but for this summer I am trying to keep my OCD under control so I can actually enjoy the damn thing before it becomes winter again.

[awfulwaffle]

Installed ELH, BCP x500 and EWG bits on hand ready to go on. Almost done with break-in, motor makes a tick I don't like on light throttle at ~1500 RPM. Definitely can't be heard via stethoscope to oilpan, sounds more like it's coming from the underside of the heads meaning piston slap or valvetrain. Paranoid me is seriously considering tearing the motor back down once break-in is complete, just to inspect everything, partly as a way to ensure peace of mind before tuning. Would be a good learning experience, anyhow.

 

Sane me says finish break-in, tune on the 16G and run it for 3k, and then do a UOA.

 

Still owe socalsleeper some bumper trimming photos for the Cobb FMIC - grabbed some but realized I need to trim a little bit more on one side. I suppose if I pull the motor again I can do it then.

Edited May 6, 2021 by awfulwaffle

[SubOperator]

Do you think it would be ok to run around with STI front bushings and my shot stock rear bushings or would it mess up the dynamics real bad to have the front and rear so different?

 

Eventually I want to replace like everything - front and rear subframe bushings, diff/trans bushings, rear suspension components with nice shiny aluminum things but for this summer I am trying to keep my OCD under control so I can actually enjoy the damn thing before it becomes winter again.

 

 

I think it will mess the dynamics as you're saying. I'd replace both since the LCAs are coming off anyway, why do it twice? Both bushings will be of the same age and wear level too. Just my 2c.

[apexi]

Replaced my plugs. Not crazy about the 30k interval on the non-turbos, the plugs thread in by hand okay, but it just never feels smooth, makes me uncomfortable (I always do it when the engine is stone cold, before it has been driven at all that day). I gotta learn more about waste spark systems which I think I've heard my car has, because 2 of the plugs always seem more noticeably worn than the other 2. 2 Look fine, and the other 2 look worn down. Feels smoother though, so I'm happy.

[BoozeRS05]

So I cleaned my maf sensor the other day and reset the ECU. Worth mentioning bc the original o-ring wasn't easy to seat. It was binding when I would push it down and needs to be replaced, but got it in there nicely. Easy to not pay attention to and have issues I'd guess, but might have helped with my fuel trims if that makes sense.

 

Also worth mentioning, maf cleaner may become a little harder to get soon. It was sold out at one big retailer I went to, started BS'ing with the clerk at the second retailer and they showed me their warehouse inventory. I think it was gonna be an issue for them too eventually. I bought their last 2 cans in stock and nobody nearby had it.

[bubbagump]

I think it will mess the dynamics as you're saying. I'd replace both since the LCAs are coming off anyway, why do it twice? Both bushings will be of the same age and wear level too. Just my 2c.

 

Thanks for reply. Realized I was likely having a brain fart. I was talking about the rear suspension bushings as in the rear of my car. Didn't occur to me at the time there are probably no year of STI that has the trailing arm type setup like the LGT's, so there would be no such thing as STI equivalents.

[Blackbeard]

Installed a Madrig Fiberglass hood scoop, I'm really impressed with the look. Its change are subtle, but large enough to merit a double take to those who know..

http://photos.app.goo.gl/TMvo2raxiP4LxX2D6

 

http://photos.app.goo.gl/eRDC14bQPrwxMxeu7

 

http://photos.app.goo.gl/6HET6Pa9ywRaEwru5

Edited May 7, 2021 by Blackbeard
photo links ( google photos, ugh)

[Smithcraft]

Spats arrived yesterday. Air Mail from Moscow is not that fast!

 

I unpacked them, and cleaned them up this afternoon. The JDM silver seems to be fairly close to the QSM so they might not stick out like sore thumbs. They have some scuffs but I think it will be ok and I'll have them painted when I get the hood done.

 

Otherwise, topped off the power steering and the oil.

 

SC

[boxkita]

Thanks for reply. Realized I was likely having a brain fart. I was talking about the rear suspension bushings as in the rear of my car. Didn't occur to me at the time there are probably no year of STI that has the trailing arm type setup like the LGT's, so there would be no such thing as STI equivalents.

 

alas, the 4th gen suspension was a failed experiment. no other models use it. I have a 2008 sti rear subframe sitting in my shop in hopes that I can find a way to transplant it. There's nothing on it that's remotely close.

[socalsleeper]

alas, the 4th gen suspension was a failed experiment. no other models use it. I have a 2008 sti rear subframe sitting in my shop in hopes that I can find a way to transplant it. There's nothing on it that's remotely close.

 

I'm not surprised to hear that. I wish that was not the case.

 

Is it possible to "make it" fit sure anything is possible with a welder, and some steel; but does it make any sense at all, No, probably not. For the time and money it would take to make that work it is just cheaper to grab a not so abused STI.

 

Now in fantasy land that would mean a lot of things for the platform as far as options go. Wheels, coilovers, brakes, swaybars etc. all that becomes available.

[BoozeRS05]

I would say look to the 15+ WRX/STi parts as possible options for the 4th gen LGT. Seems like the same damn car and it's odd how many things from it are a direct fit my on Forester. Maybe an equally dumb assumption though.

[SubOperator]

Thanks for reply. Realized I was likely having a brain fart. I was talking about the rear suspension bushings as in the rear of my car. Didn't occur to me at the time there are probably no year of STI that has the trailing arm type setup like the LGT's, so there would be no such thing as STI equivalents.

 

 

Didn't realize you were talking rear suspension here. FWIW, I still have original bushings everywhere in the rear suspension including the diff after the 6MT swap.

 

 

Not going to do anything with rear arms bushings - have JDM aluminum arms in decent shape that will eventually put in there.

[Max Capacity]

FWIW, while talking suspension,

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/complete-bushing-guide-bl-bp-281856.html?t=281856

[Smithcraft]

Well, I took one of the spats out to check it out, and it's definitely more BSM than QSM.

 

Maybe I'll just get the car painted to match...

 

SC

[ChadChrist]

I test fit my 16x7.5 with plenty clearance [emoji2956]

 

 

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[boxkita]

I'm not surprised to hear that. I wish that was not the case.

 

Is it possible to "make it" fit sure anything is possible with a welder, and some steel; but does it make any sense at all, No, probably not. For the time and money it would take to make that work it is just cheaper to grab a not so abused STI.

 

Now in fantasy land that would mean a lot of things for the platform as far as options go. Wheels, coilovers, brakes, swaybars etc. all that becomes available.

 

I contacted a couple of fab shops to make a suitable subframe. 5 figures and six months minimum for the engineering. sti is 2 inches wide frame and shocks mount in a completely different location. I keep the subframe to remind that not every idea I have is a good one. building & buying a wagon track car isn't enough