xt2005bonbon Posted April 20, 2021 Share Posted April 20, 2021 How much weight are we saving again with these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted April 20, 2021 Share Posted April 20, 2021 I also have had the aluminum arms on my wagon for awhile now (20k miles) and recently looked over the bushings real closely, which seem to be holding up great. Not cracking or splitting yet at least for me. I wouldn't say there's any noticeable road feel, but they are significantly lighter if I recall. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted April 20, 2021 Share Posted April 20, 2021 I like that they don't rust... I don't care about the weight... If I did I would have found some aluminum rear trailing arms... Those cast ones weigh a TON! and yes very shiny... Almost all new components or powder coated. Back is just as nice... Car has 250 miles on it right now... LOL body ain't perfect but drivetrain is mint now. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrowNaza86 Posted April 20, 2021 Share Posted April 20, 2021 ^^^ That but with stock Y. I tried several exhausts and spent money trying to get them to my taste but ended up coming back to this. Nice growl at idle and low RPM but no drone at cruising speeds. Low frequency rumble at low RPM is so cool - house resonates nicely but then I can take it to a hours long drive and not have a headache. Interesting, I haven't found just a midpipe yet, but I haven't done a hard search for one yet. I've just seen the mid/y sets. Do you have the AVO or NP? Any chance you could get a sound bite? I'll give you virtual hugs. I've changed exhausts a few times and I always hit the point where the drone just bothers me. I commute 74mi a day now, so that point was reached awhile ago. I've had the Stromung, then stock mid/y to NP 5" mufflers. Great sound outside, but lord did that drone eventually get to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubbagump Posted April 20, 2021 Share Posted April 20, 2021 I like that they don't rust... I don't care about the weight... If I did I would have found some aluminum rear trailing arms... Those cast ones weigh a TON! and yes very shiny... Almost all new components or powder coated. Back is just as nice... Car has 250 miles on it right now... LOL body ain't perfect but drivetrain is mint now. Sent from my Pixel 4a using TapatalkYou are my hero with that shiny underside of yours. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted April 20, 2021 Share Posted April 20, 2021 The front aluminum arms don't save much weight. A few pounds. The rear trailing arms are by far the biggest difference. Underdog weighed them all at some point with stock spec b which should be close enough. Rear trailing arms are $$$ though. I only did the fronts because I needed ball joints and bushings and it didn't cost a ton more. Wish I'd just bought new knuckles and bearings though. Also theres some reports of the mevo ball joints start to clunk after a year or two. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted April 21, 2021 Share Posted April 21, 2021 You are my hero with that shiny underside of yours. Sent from my SM-G892A using TapatalkIt took a lot of time and a lot of money to get it all that clean... I will be drenching it in fluid film every 6 months... That's for sure! Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norutah Posted April 21, 2021 Share Posted April 21, 2021 Does anyone have an exhaust setup that goes as follows: High flow catted DP > Avo or Nameless mid/y pipe > stock mufflers? I swapped the stock mufflers back in after growing tired of the drone the Nameless axlebacks produced. Now the car is just too quiet .Wife's BP5 exhaust as follows: high flow catted dp; stock mid; nameless (mufflers) axle back. Sounds incredible. No drone Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norutah Posted April 21, 2021 Share Posted April 21, 2021 The front aluminum arms don't save much weight. A few pounds. The rear trailing arms are by far the biggest difference. Underdog weighed them all at some point with stock spec b which should be close enough. Rear trailing arms are $$$ though. I only did the fronts because I needed ball joints and bushings and it didn't cost a ton more. Wish I'd just bought new knuckles and bearings though. Also theres some reports of the mevo ball joints start to clunk after a year or two. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI did mevo, prothane, new oem conical seats, new OEM ball joints. Good set up until I swap the ball joints/the rods for the whiteline Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubbagump Posted April 21, 2021 Share Posted April 21, 2021 It took a lot of time and a lot of money to get it all that clean... I will be drenching it in fluid film every 6 months... That's for sure! Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk I can imagine so! I hope to be able to follow your example in the next couple years, unless I impulse buy another one from out west to give me a better starting point. She's been with me over a decade now though, so she kind deserves it. Putting on just my shiny exhaust components is making it more painful the rest of mine looks the way it looks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted April 21, 2021 Share Posted April 21, 2021 Interesting, I haven't found just a midpipe yet, but I haven't done a hard search for one yet. I've just seen the mid/y sets. Do you have the AVO or NP? Any chance you could get a sound bite? I'll give you virtual hugs. I've changed exhausts a few times and I always hit the point where the drone just bothers me. I commute 74mi a day now, so that point was reached awhile ago. I've had the Stromung, then stock mid/y to NP 5" mufflers. Great sound outside, but lord did that drone eventually get to me. I have CNT high-flow catted DP. The rest is stock - Y and mufflers. I got a new Y but asked the exhaust shop to cut the flanges off the Y and mufflers and just weld connector pipes over. No more worries about leaks. I'll try to get a sound clip. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrowNaza86 Posted April 21, 2021 Share Posted April 21, 2021 Ah, I'm running the Cobb DP > stock mid/y/mufflers. I need a bit more. I think the AVO mid/y is my next purchase to get a bit more life out of the exhaust. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted April 21, 2021 Share Posted April 21, 2021 (edited) Haha I have an extra set of SPT mufflers, you know for if I ever get a JDM wagon bumper, but the rest of the Y pipe here could probably be reused if someone wants it. Should fit onto a stock mid I was told, but can't verify Edited April 21, 2021 by BoozeRS05 EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted April 21, 2021 Share Posted April 21, 2021 Haha I have an extra set of SPT mufflers, you know for if I ever get a JDM wagon bumper, but the rest of the Y pipe here could probably be reused if someone wants it. Should fit onto a stock mid I was told, but can't verify Those mufflers and y pipe only work together. Why not just throw them on with longer hangers? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luckybullitt Posted April 21, 2021 Share Posted April 21, 2021 I’m running catless nvidia dp, straight all the way to rear SPT mufflers on 08 spec.B and no drone here. Usually drive on “I” so not waking up the neighbourhood. When I open it up though on “S#”, you here me a comin! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted April 21, 2021 Share Posted April 21, 2021 Those mufflers and y pipe only work together. Why not just throw them on with longer hangers? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I already have a full SPT catback on my car, but modded the mufflers to fit my wagon. Only wanted the sedan fitment mufflers in case I ever get a JDM bumper, but no use for that Y pipe. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holla Posted April 21, 2021 Share Posted April 21, 2021 Nothing too exciting here. Swapped to the summers and washed the car. For better or worse, this car cover has been a good investment. I need a front end rebuild but wondering how far I take it. The wife approved a garage build, that's really where the focus ($$) is right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted April 22, 2021 Share Posted April 22, 2021 Nothing too exciting here. Swapped to the summers and washed the car. For better or worse, this car cover has been a good investment. I need a front end rebuild but wondering how far I take it. The wife approved a garage build, that's really where the focus ($$) is right now. Car covers are nice. Bought my middle son a car cover for his NA Miata as a present and it is great quality. Probably will buy one for LGT too. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holla Posted April 22, 2021 Share Posted April 22, 2021 Car covers are nice. Bought my middle son a car cover for his NA Miata as a present and it is great quality. Probably will buy one for LGT too. If you have a car that sits outside a lot, it's worth it. It wouldn't make sense to cover and uncover it every day. I only put the cover on after a fresh wash. Just make sure that you buy a cover specifically designed for your car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lagwagon Posted April 22, 2021 Share Posted April 22, 2021 2005:I replaced the vacuum line from the intake to the FPR as the old one was slipping off the intake manifold with very little force. Seems to have made a difference to fuel trims and low rpm vibrations. I'm sure there are many other vacuum lines that are similarly hard and cracking internally, so I might start going through them and replacing them when I have the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted April 22, 2021 Share Posted April 22, 2021 If you have a car that sits outside a lot, it's worth it. It wouldn't make sense to cover and uncover it every day. I only put the cover on after a fresh wash. Just make sure that you buy a cover specifically designed for your car. I am going to retire my wagon from winter (snow & salt) driving duties and keep it in the garage. It's been a street dog all these years. For winter storage even in the garage I believe cover will help. Liked how the Miata was under cover most of the winter, much less dust on it. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 22, 2021 Share Posted April 22, 2021 I am going to retire my wagon from winter (snow & salt) driving duties and keep it in the garage. It's been a street dog all these years. For winter storage even in the garage I believe cover will help. Liked how the Miata was under cover most of the winter, much less dust on it. I understand what your saying there, that thought is in my head too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted April 23, 2021 Share Posted April 23, 2021 Finally free from the shackles of school for the semester. Took tomorrow and Saturday off of work, and started building my motor after work tonight. Verified machine shop measurements on mains, line hone got everything nice and round again and clearances were right where I asked them to be. That's a relief after having to bring the block back for an overbore after they overshot my PTWC. Checking rod clearances in the morning, and off we go. Let's see if I can't have the car back on the road by Sunday night. When the machine shop bored over to the next piston size, I asked them to take measurements right after the bore with the torque plate still installed, and then after it was removed. Plate was torqued using my ARP studs to the proper torque spec. Average form shift between the 4 bores was just over .001". Good to have some evidence for the use of a torque plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted April 24, 2021 Share Posted April 24, 2021 Not too shabby for a day's work. Feels good to be able to work on the wagon again. Another interesting lesson learned - higher tension rod bearings will thin out quite a bit when seated into the journal. Measuring rod clearances by individually doing a torqued but empty rod, then bearing shell max thickness point and crank journals led to a calculated clearance .002 under what it came out to when measuring a bearing installed in the rod. Was on the cusp of yelling at the machine shop again, glad I checked. Live and learn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted April 24, 2021 Share Posted April 24, 2021 Not too shabby for a day's work. Feels good to be able to work on the wagon again. Another interesting lesson learned - higher tension rod bearings will thin out quite a bit when seated into the journal. Measuring rod clearances by individually doing a torqued but empty rod, then bearing shell max thickness point and crank journals led to a calculated clearance .002 under what it came out to when measuring a bearing installed in the rod. Was on the cusp of yelling at the machine shop again, glad I checked. Live and learn. yer overthinking it. take all the parts outside on your sandy driveway and just put them together. (can't find the yt of it) Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now