What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[rhino6303]

54 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

My last set of rear wheel bearings lasted quite a while, close to a 100k. And I have a lot of dead weight in the trunk too (~150 lbs); also rocking quite negative camber as well for them canyons . Not sure if the latter add more strains to the wheel bearings..

My front ones are currently some NTN ones I got on ebay. 46k miles so far. I usually get everything from ebay and very rarely encounter any problem. Will keep in mind rockauto though.

rhino, where do you source your BCA wheel bearings from?

Rockauto usually.

[xt2005bonbon]

Really? OK. Good to know.

[BoozeRS05]

1 hour ago, 310Z said:

Sounds like you lubed the lock mechanism? But is the cable what needs lube. If it is not moving freely it may keep the lock from latching.

I think it’s the cable and I’ll definitely try lubing, but the lock is now 20 years old too and I’m in my hood all the time. New hood lock is $60 so that’s not bad

 

I also use rockauto for wheel bearings. Take a look at the warranty period when buying things though, it’s listed in the item description at the very bottom.

Coupon code expires 5/3:

 262207464233985952

[xt2005bonbon]

Yeah. I just checked them out. Lots of choice for wheel bearings there, including BCA, which looks like it is essentially NTN bearings.

[BoozeRS05]

My hood lock was missing this spring. I have an old ebrake rebuild kit and fashioned a retainer spring in there, lubed it up and everything works like butter.

[KZJonny]

Installing a GS 3 port EBCS the other day, I ran in to a problem I think is pretty solveable, but I wanted to know if anyone else has had the same issue.

(For the record, I am installing the EBCS in 2-port/bleed mode for the time being, I just figured it's easier to have it installed +install the line to switch to 3 port mode sitting there and waiting to go while the engine is out that to fight with it later.)

Annoying problem is that the barbs on the EBCS are tiny, like 1/8" or 3-4mm, whichever you prefer. One of the ports tho is supposed to go to the intake manifold. No big deal, except those barbs are like 3/8" or 1/2" roughly... I MAY have found a nice SS barb adaptor to go from the tiny hose up to the IM barb, but they're not small, and real estate under the IM is pretty tight. I would have to make it a much longer loop than stock to get the barb adaptor to fit in there somewhere.

I don't see that as being a big problem, and I hardly think it will slow down response time much, but shorter hoses are probably also the best option.

I was also thinking that maybe glueing the small hose inside the larger OE hose that comes off the stock EBCS might be fine? I have lots of high quality RTV lying around after the refresh and figure if it can seal up the cranks cases/valve covers etc... from leaking fluids, it should be able to hold up to a few psi of boost or vacuum while holding a couple of little hoses together?

Anyone else come across this same problem? Other options I suppose might be to replace the barb on the EBCS with a larger fitting, or try and find barbed elbow fitting that suits the IM (Perrin) that has a 3/16" or 1/8" barb on it... Any suggestions are welcome.

 

Cheers!

[pleiadesfella]

I hate to barge in here with a bunch of questions, but I'm tired of being a nuisance with making threads for every question and issue I have. and I've been having alot of both recently  

so today I found out my old 07 lgt has a big ol rust hole in the exhaust manifold. that's a car I need to get rid of as soon as possible but can't do so without fixing all the problems first, and the manifold is a big issue. I was already thinking of getting an aftermarket ELH for my spec b eventually, and now I'm thinking I should get an ELH now and put the good OEM manifold off my spec b onto my lgt to save on that cost while getting what I actually want.

however... its going to be a good while until I can get my spec b retuned for anything as my preferred tuner is a 3hr drive away from me and the car still needs some other problems fixed (such as an electrical issue that caused a steering lock while driving). the car is currently tuned with a stage 2 protune done by a good shop out in montreal, and the car has a catless dp which it is tuned for. would I be able to get away with installing an ELH without getting it retuned right off the bat? I've seen so many conflicting views on other forums about this - some say its fine as long as you don't drive hard, and some imply your engine will immediately disintegrate as soon as you start and move the car with an ELH its not tuned for...

I need my old lgt fixed asap and I think this is a great opportunity to upgrade my spec b and reuse my good OEM manifold off of it, but I just need to be sure I can safely drive my spec b with an ELH in the meantime until I can get it tuned. should I just start looking for an e-tuner? that's not a risk I really want to take considering the mileage of my motor (145k mi) in case it decides to chew out a rod bearing during a hard tuning run, but I might if its for the best.

I just wish I could stop chasing issues and start driving my spec b properly... especially while the weather is nice for once!

[KZJonny]

10 minutes ago, pleiadesfella said:

would I be able to get away with installing an ELH without getting it retuned right off the bat?

You're good dude. The advise to not go 'full send' all the time MAY not be bad, but the difference between an ELH and OE is mainly a little bit of turbo spool (faster) without everything else in place to make the most of it.

Keep an eye on boost and AFR, to make sure nothing is out of spec and get those parts swapped.

 

I also don't really think a good e-tune is particularly a risk. (Cryotune or Tuning Alliance) It just puts more responsibility on you, as the driver/owner to make sure everything is in good shape before doing a few WOT pulls. (Not on public roads, of course....)

You don't have a babysitter looking at logs the whole time. But, you get what you pay for....

[rhino6303]

10 minutes ago, pleiadesfella said:

I hate to barge in here with a bunch of questions, but I'm tired of being a nuisance with making threads for every question and issue I have. and I've been having alot of both recently  

so today I found out my old 07 lgt has a big ol rust hole in the exhaust manifold. that's a car I need to get rid of as soon as possible but can't do so without fixing all the problems first, and the manifold is a big issue. I was already thinking of getting an aftermarket ELH for my spec b eventually, and now I'm thinking I should get an ELH now and put the good OEM manifold off my spec b onto my lgt to save on that cost while getting what I actually want.

however... its going to be a good while until I can get my spec b retuned for anything as my preferred tuner is a 3hr drive away from me and the car still needs some other problems fixed (such as an electrical issue that caused a steering lock while driving). the car is currently tuned with a stage 2 protune done by a good shop out in montreal, and the car has a catless dp which it is tuned for. would I be able to get away with installing an ELH without getting it retuned right off the bat? I've seen so many conflicting views on other forums about this - some say its fine as long as you don't drive hard, and some imply your engine will immediately disintegrate as soon as you start and move the car with an ELH its not tuned for...

I need my old lgt fixed asap and I think this is a great opportunity to upgrade my spec b and reuse my good OEM manifold off of it, but I just need to be sure I can safely drive my spec b with an ELH in the meantime until I can get it tuned. should I just start looking for an e-tuner? that's not a risk I really want to take considering the mileage of my motor (145k mi) in case it decides to chew out a rod bearing during a hard tuning run, but I might if its for the best.

I just wish I could stop chasing issues and start driving my spec b properly... especially while the weather is nice for once!

Your boost (and timing) is really the issue with swapping exhaust manifolds as you'll hit higher boost with lower load values. Do you have the ability to run a lower boost map? If you can, run it and you should be ok; this is assuming you stay out of high load/boost driving. If you can't change your map, you should be fine ONLY if you can keep out of boost and moderate/high loads. This would mean staying under 3.5k and slow acceleration pretty much all of the time until you can get a retune.

[pleiadesfella]

39 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

You're good dude. The advise to not go 'full send' all the time MAY not be bad, but the difference between an ELH and OE is mainly a little bit of turbo spool (faster) without everything else in place to make the most of it.

Keep an eye on boost and AFR, to make sure nothing is out of spec and get those parts swapped.

 

I also don't really think a good e-tune is particularly a risk. (Cryotune or Tuning Alliance) It just puts more responsibility on you, as the driver/owner to make sure everything is in good shape before doing a few WOT pulls. (Not on public roads, of course....)

You don't have a babysitter looking at logs the whole time. But, you get what you pay for....

that's great to hear   I'm already gonna be keeping an eye on afr and other fuel related values (such as trim) since I currently have a running rich code as you know from my other thread. I'm hoping that gets fixed either before or at the same time I put a different manifold on the car though, just for my peace of mind.

and that also ties into my concerns with e-tuning, the car will be looked at thoroughly to make sure everything is good, but with all the issues that popped up recently I should probably hold off on an e-tune for now until I'm confident in the car again.

 

42 minutes ago, rhino6303 said:

Your boost (and timing) is really the issue with swapping exhaust manifolds as you'll hit higher boost with lower load values. Do you have the ability to run a lower boost map? If you can, run it and you should be ok; this is assuming you stay out of high load/boost driving. If you can't change your map, you should be fine ONLY if you can keep out of boost and moderate/high loads. This would mean staying under 3.5k and slow acceleration pretty much all of the time until you can get a retune.

this is exactly the technical detail I was looking for, thank you. I don't know if the tuner in montreal used SI drive for a lower boost map on intelligent mode, but I'll likely keep the car in that mode anyway just to be safe. I already usually shift at 3.5k during regular driving, so I don't think there would be any issue regardless. I just have to pay attention in 1st when taking off as I always tend to underestimate how short 1st gear is, but even then I usually shift before 3.5k.

thanks for all the good advice and info guys, I'm gonna check some classifieds threads to see if I can get a decent used ELH at a good price as I'm not in a position to drop 1k cad on a new tomei ELH at the moment.

[Infosecdad]

9 hours ago, pleiadesfella said:

...

thanks for all the good advice and info guys, I'm gonna check some classifieds threads to see if I can get a decent used ELH at a good price as I'm not in a position to drop 1k cad on a new tomei ELH at the moment.

I may have one in my part out: 

 

[SilentJ20]

Discovered I need some kind of 'gutter' above the doors of my car.  The weather was misty and the water beads really built up.  When I opened the door and stepped one leg in, all the water above broke loose and ran onto my pants and seat. I probably had a quarter cup of water spilled in various places.  Good thing I was going home...  This car is very 'drippy' in general, it seems.  Door surrounds drip onto seats, trunk lid lower trim collects water and drips onto whatever is in the trunk when I open it up.

[WRX USA]

2 hours ago, SilentJ20 said:

Discovered I need some kind of 'gutter' above the doors of my car.  The weather was misty and the water beads really built up.  When I opened the door and stepped one leg in, all the water above broke loose and ran onto my pants and seat. I probably had a quarter cup of water spilled in various places.  Good thing I was going home...  This car is very 'drippy' in general, it seems.  Door surrounds drip onto seats, trunk lid lower trim collects water and drips onto whatever is in the trunk when I open it up.

Sedan (and wagon) version available here:

https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/?id=3074

Wagon version available here:

https://avojdm.com/side-rain-visor-set-legacy-wagon/

They should have been available domestically.

Edited April 25 by WRX USA

[SilentJ20]

2 hours ago, WRX USA said:

Sedan (and wagon) version available here:

https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/?id=3074

Wagon version available here:

https://avojdm.com/side-rain-visor-set-legacy-wagon/

They should have been available domestically.

Ok, so I have those on the list but wasn't sure how much they'd divert water coming down.  That angle makes it seem like they'd do more than I'd previously thought.

[socalsleeper]

Don’t mean to spam the forum but I know this is where most of the active users are. 
I got my new engine in the car last weekend. I have a thread going if anyone is interested in the progress. I also put a coat of exhaust paint on the mid-pipe. 

[KZJonny]

1 hour ago, socalsleeper said:

Don’t mean to spam the forum but I know this is where most of the active users are. 
I got my new engine in the car last weekend. I have a thread going if anyone is interested in the progress. I also put a coat of exhaust paint on the mid-pipe. 

Link to the thread?

And my jealousy is painful. I just did a relatively in depth engine refresh and just not being able to get the aluminium clean like a new block in photos like that is killing me a little. (not enough to buy a short block tho.... lol!)

 

Looks awesome dude. Enjoy every new nut and bolt that goes into that super clean looking bay.

[socalsleeper]

1 hour ago, KZJonny said:

Link to the thread?

And my jealousy is painful. I just did a relatively in depth engine refresh and just not being able to get the aluminium clean like a new block in photos like that is killing me a little. (not enough to buy a short block tho.... lol!)

 

Looks awesome dude. Enjoy every new nut and bolt that goes into that super clean looking bay.

Here is the thread, link

 

As far as the aluminum goes, there are a few things at play. 1st I had many parts media blast actually not that expensive, 2nd I had the valve covers hot tanked with the heads, and lastly I did apply some aluminum paint to prevent stains on the raw metal. The paint is a very good match to raw aluminum which made it interesting to paint fully. 
The heads had a valve job and the AVCS cams were also cleaned by the machine shop. 

[KZJonny]

11 hours ago, socalsleeper said:

Here is the thread, link

 

As far as the aluminum goes, there are a few things at play. 1st I had many parts media blast actually not that expensive, 2nd I had the valve covers hot tanked with the heads, and lastly I did apply some aluminum paint to prevent stains on the raw metal. The paint is a very good match to raw aluminum which made it interesting to paint fully. 
The heads had a valve job and the AVCS cams were also cleaned by the machine shop. 

I'll remember some of that for next time the engine comes out. Or if a new SB ever goes in, I think it will get a coat of clear POR 15 before install. Much easier to wash a sealed surface than raw aluminium as you note.

 

I was on too much of a time crunch to send anything out for blasting. I even bought a soda blaster and used it for some of the parts, but not everything I had planned on doing got done. OTOH the engine should go back in this weekend, so that is a plus.

[boxkita]

On 3/4/2024 at 9:33 AM, tehspud said:

I dunno what you're talking about, I got a full set of mounted wheels/tires (17x9, 245s) and a second set of tires in my first gen BRZ once. I think it had plenty of space for groceries. 

Im old and have back issues. when you lift the tail flap, the space in front of you is the trunk area. In the wagon, its a 1/4 yard of dirt. In the gr86, its 2 small bags of groceries. I'm guessing shoveling dirt in the wagon leads to the absurdly small trunk space in the 86.

If my life didn't have drama, i'd be a still life.

[Turbomister2]

I found this car as a potential parts car I’m thinking of buying being the motors lost compression in cylinder 3. I  was wondering if it was previously owned by anyone on here? Jdm front is current other pics previous owner 

Edited April 27 by Turbomister2

[Kojak]

Nice grab. Looks familiar but can’t place it during happy hour. How much parts u salvaging? Someone here mite be interested in a shell that clean looking. Just sayin. Have fun with the project. 

[Febreze Mee]

That does look good @Turbomister2!

RBP is such a unique color. 

[Turbomister2]

@Kojak @Febreze Mee

I was going to take my motor and suspension parts and install it but the kid sold it from under me. So I’m hoping someone’s saving it and not parting it out to double the money 

[boxkita]

tldr; i should have fixed my wagon instead of selling it.

my weekly perusal of the cars for sale was frustrating. no 6mt rbp wagons for sale with relatively recent updates. Someone has to have one languishing in their garage...

gr86 tires are down to the wear bars. New tires means new wider wheels. then supporting suspension bits. The car has been fun, but it might be time to get an old man pickup and watch from the sidelines.

[KZJonny]

6 hours ago, boxkita said:

it might be time to get an old man pickup and watch from the sidelines.

I see this lasting 3.4 days before you let that pickup roll off a cliff and go get a fast car again.

You're disappointed that one of the harder to find colours (05 only?) isn't currently available with your preference in transmission and updates?!!

I'll keep my eyes open in case there is a garage find in Canada for you!