What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[KZJonny]

12 minutes ago, jaylew said:

All this talk of the kit. My only suggestion to do the job totally right, would be to re-pin both connectors so that there is not any soldering nor bottle neck of remaining smaller gauge wire. True pin to pin larger gauge wire upgrade

I tend to agree, but voltage drop due to small gauge wiring is related to wire length.

How thick is the wiring inside the controller? Is splicing into the existing wiring 2-3cm from the termination really going to make a difference?

Serious questions. If you do a legit pin to pin 12ga upgrade and take voltage drop measurements, I’ll do the cut and splice and do the same….

My AEM pump is keeping up okay so far with the voltage it’s being fed, but it could always be better.

[KZJonny]

1 hour ago, lagwagon said:

I'm in Canada so I'll give up that dibs.

Oh. Dang, Alberta!

I’d have offered to grab it for you from the ECM, but that’s a bit far from my usual stomping grounds, at least since I stopped being a delinquent snowboarder out in Banff. Miss that place.

[Infosecdad]

1 hour ago, jaylew said:

All this talk of the kit. My only suggestion to do the job totally right, would be to re-pin both connectors so that there is not any soldering nor bottle neck of remaining smaller gauge wire. True pin to pin larger gauge wire upgrade

This is what I did

[cheeseenlo]

On 12/12/2023 at 5:42 PM, Infosecdad said:

I installed an STi controller and upgraded the wiring from the battery to the controller and to the pump using the DW kit.

It's bumped my fuel pressure up a couple PSI overall.

I have pictures and was going to do a write up, but hadn't had the time to do it yet.

What advantage is there with the STi controller over our stock one? I recently installed a Radium single pump w/ a Walbro 450 coming from the stock hanger with a AEM 340. It also bumped up my fuel pressure which I had to re-adjust at the regulator. 

22 hours ago, Code said:

FWIW I run the iWire fuel pump wiring kit.  Not cheap, but very nice. 

100% agree. Pricey but it's complete with everything you need. This kit installed with the Radium hanger makes everything super neat. 

[KZJonny]

2 hours ago, cheeseenlo said:

What advantage is there with the STi controller over our stock one? I recently installed a Radium single pump w/ a Walbro 450 coming from the stock hanger with a AEM 340. It also bumped up my fuel pressure which I had to re-adjust at the regulator. 

100% agree. Pricey but it's complete with everything you need. This kit installed with the Radium hanger makes everything super neat. 

STi controller has thicker gauge wiring/larger connector pins = Less voltage drop.

Even if you are going to depin and repin the few wires that need to be done to make the Deutschwerks kit seamless, it is still ~ 1/10th the cost of the iWire, so that’s a hard sell!

That, plus (I got) a used STi FPC for $40 CAD…

All depends on your budget and willingness to DIY, I suppose!

[xt2005bonbon]

Several years ago, I installed 1/0 gauge wire for my audio system, in addition to the 'big 3'. Maybe I should have my fuel pump tap to it, while leaving the rest of the fuel pump wiring intact.

Edited December 14, 2023 by xt2005bonbon

[310Z]

On 11/21/2023 at 8:06 AM, Ashtone said:






After a lot of searching for a cell phone holder that would hold the phone high enough above the clock, I finally gave up and made one from the clip-in rubber liner Subaru put in the cubby.
I didn’t want to mount it on the windshield with a suction cup because I just don’t like that option. I drive 140 miles round-trip every day, and clean the inside of the windshield a couple times a week. Suction cups leave a mess and I’d have to remove it every time I clean the windshield on the inside.
I used a thin steel angle bracket and some dense foam so it’d be snug inside the cubby and the phone wouldn’t bounce or vibrate on the mount. After test fitting everything I used Panel Bond to glue it up. I bought a standard magnetic phone holder and stuck the adjustable phone holder to the steel bracket. (It didn’t have to be steel; that’s just what I had laying around that worked.)
The end result is pretty cool! It holds the phone exactly where I want, I don’t have to look down away from the road to see it, and it pops right out if need be.
 

I really liked what Ashtone did with the useless cubby to make it useful. I have never had my phone up where I could see it while driving and as Ashtone said He did not want it to obscure the view or the temp/clock. I did not have the same products either but I found the same phone mount. Then I walked around a Walmart and looked for something similar that would work that I could adapt to my needs. What I found was a Walmart brand yoga block that I thought would work.

 

I had done some custom work on a motor cycle seat years ago so I had some ideas to go about changing the block into the size I needed. I took some rough measurements and used a electric kitchen knife to cut the block down to size. Then an electric vibrating sander (not circular) with 60 grit sand paper and then finished off with 220 grit sand paper. I did not think the adhesive on the phone holder would stick to the dense foam but it did. The block fits snugly and can slide out if needed. I just returned from a eight hour drive and this set up worked well.

Thanks for the great idea Ashtone.

[Flaris]

I'm a bit late on the update but I did a liqui moly engine flush, just to make sure there wasn't any sludge in the system.

Followed instructions to the letter, performed my first oil change in the dead of night, installed a Fumoto F-105 oil drain valve, replaced with economy filter & oil and ran her for a bit (15min idle, at operating temps) before repeating the process and installing a dry air/cleanable filter + Mobil High Mileage Full Synthetic oil w/ WIX 57712XP filter. She seems to have liked it.

I've got a Timken front wheel bearing ordered after detecting a bit of roar around 65MPH on the drivers side. I also ordered some caliper pistons and repair kits as I suspect I've got an occasionally-stuck piston on my passenger side rear wheel, which I'll be repairing as I replace all of the brakes and pads. May as well do caliper rebuilds while I'm there!

I have a B/E Ignition Coil Pack (The box that all the wires plug into that I swear should be named something different) for testing purposes and an OEM PCV Valve ready to go into the system on my next day off, assuming the valve comes off willingly.

For the PCV Valve -- I've already marked the exposed thread with a paint marker so I can roughly gauge how much to tighten the new one when it goes in.

I've got a full suspension rebuild that I need to do as well, but that'll have to come later.

Little by little..I will fix her!

[pksystems]

Pulled calipers out of the evaporust. These things looked horrible before the soak and a couple quick scrubs with a brush.

One of the pistons has a rough spot of rust where the chrome plating was damaged, so I'll need to buy a new piston, or grab one from a different car at the junkyard.  It looks like Subaru uses the same pistons in most of their calipers.

[Febreze Mee]

4 hours ago, pksystems said:

Pulled calipers out of the evaporust. These things looked horrible before the soak and a couple quick scrubs with a brush.

One of the pistons has a rough spot of rust where the chrome plating was damaged, so I'll need to buy a new piston, or grab one from a different car at the junkyard.  It looks like Subaru uses the same pistons in most of their calipers.

Ooh wee Rick! Those look super clean. 

[Ashtone]

On 12/15/2023 at 7:50 PM, 310Z said:

I really liked what Ashtone did with the useless cubby to make it useful. I have never had my phone up where I could see it while driving and as Ashtone said He did not want it to obscure the view or the temp/clock. I did not have the same products either but I found the same phone mount. Then I walked around a Walmart and looked for something similar that would work that I could adapt to my needs. What I found was a Walmart brand yoga block that I thought would work.

 

I had done some custom work on a motor cycle seat years ago so I had some ideas to go about changing the block into the size I needed. I took some rough measurements and used a electric kitchen knife to cut the block down to size. Then an electric vibrating sander (not circular) with 60 grit sand paper and then finished off with 220 grit sand paper. I did not think the adhesive on the phone holder would stick to the dense foam but it did. The block fits snugly and can slide out if needed. I just returned from a eight hour drive and this set up worked well.

Thanks for the great idea Ashtone.

Very nice! 

[Ashtone]

I installed a Fumoto oil drain, which is not just a screw-in addition. since 1972 I’ve owned 11 cars, and done my own maintenance on all of them. I have to say this Subaru is the sloppiest by far when changing oil, so this valve seemed like a great solution to eliminate the mess when changing oil.

I read a post here about grinding some metal off the support bracket that interferes with tightening the new valve, but I chose to remove the engine mount bolts and jack up the motor a bit. This eliminated the need remove the splash shield, which is in the way when trying to get a grinder into position.
The other problem I had was the position of the opening lever when the valve was fully tightened. In my case, it was facing toward back of the engine, which made it difficult to get to. I added a Subaru drain bolt gasket to the Fumoto gasket, Which placed the lever at the top of the valve when tightened. I’ll be keeping an eye on this thing for any leaks, but I’m sure it will be fine. The Fumo gasket is fiber and the Subaru gasket is metal, so it’s not like stacking two metal gaskets.

Kind of a pain on the install, and having to use an extra gasket to locate the opening lever in a good position… I guess I’ll see how it works when the accessory hose kit arrives and my next oil change is due. I drive about 700 miles a week, so they come around rather quickly.

[snow05gtRI]

For those with the fumoto, I got a jug to drain into instead of just a regular pan and you can feed the hose right into it without any concerns about aim.  Granted, this only works if you're on jack stands or ramps, or I guess have a really long hose from putting it up on a lift.  This is the one I bought:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014FKI1Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Max Capacity]

Odd, I had no problem when putting the Fumoto valve on my GT wagon years ago. The car normally has the under engine cover installed.

Seems the only installed picture in the car is from when the oil pan was leaking. 

FWIW, you can see a small hole about 2" up on the front corner of the pan.

 

I also use gallon milk jugs with screw on tops as the catch container. I take the used oil to my local junkyard, where for free they take it, as they use it in their heating system.

 

[Ashtone]

1 hour ago, Max Capacity said:

Odd, I had no problem when putting the Fumoto valve on my GT wagon years ago. The car normally has the under engine cover installed.

Seems the only installed picture in the car is from when the oil pan was leaking. 

FWIW, you can see a small hole about 2" up on the front corner of the pan.

 

I also use gallon milk jugs with screw on tops as the catch container. I take the used oil to my local junkyard, where for free they take it, as they use it in their heating system.

 

I can’t tell what year your car is from that photo, but you have way more clearance between the oil pan and the interfering bracket than I do. Mine is an 05 LGT wagon with a manual transmission.

[rhino6303]

14 minutes ago, Ashtone said:

I can’t tell what year your car is from that photo, but you have way more clearance between the oil pan and the interfering bracket than I do. Mine is an 05 LGT wagon with a manual transmission.

The motor is jacked up pretty far in that photo. You can see the base of the motor mount threads.

[Flaris]

My next day off is tomorrow, however, whilst working on Subi and going in for a regular soapy wipe-down of her engine to track down a coolant leak -- I noticed that the new radiator cap I got (due to the old one having some wiggle/wasn't sealing properly) has dried coolant on it as well as much of the area around said cap AFTER I cleaned it all off.

Given the chances of the fluid coming out from under the cap looping itself around to sit neatly on top of the cap, I'm going to assume that I have a micro-fracture somewhere along the upper part of the radiator. Additionally, I need to wipe her down along the underside as well -- I didn't think to do it during the oil changing as it was sub-30 that night, but she does have dried coolant on the outside of the oil pan, so I suspect there's a bit more at play to track down.

I've been gently adding fluid with a no-spill set and giving her a couple of good burps to get any air out of the system every couple of days, just until I can get it all tracked down and sorted. I may just buy a whole set of tubes if I need to replace the rad, though.

My wheel bearing FINALLY arrived along with my rear brake pistons, repair kits and a wire brush, so tomorrow is going to be a Subi day.

I'll be bringing her for an alignment after its all installed, as I suspect a failing wheel bearing probably knocked SOMETHING out of alignment, then hitting the junkyards for possible strut assemblies so I can fix her suspension and stop her rear from bouncing like she's at a rally.

[Max Capacity]

4 hours ago, rhino6303 said:

The motor is jacked up pretty far in that photo. You can see the base of the motor mount threads.

Thanks, yes, if anyone has to replace the oil pan I'm sure there's a thread about it on here. For the newer guy's this was on my 2005 GT wagon. 

[snow05gtRI]

Maybe they redesigned the fumoto?  This is the one I bought and had zero issues with interference on my 2005 LGT with an automatic trans:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VCEV0Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Max Capacity]

Oh dear, I bought all of mine direct from Fumoto, support the company, not someone who wants to build another rocket for rich people. 

[snow05gtRI]

I was mainly linking for the model number.

[Max Capacity]

Ok, I forgive you then. LOL.

Hey, while on to products we like, I have a few of these products. They work great. 

https://locknlube.com/collections/holiday-gift-guide?utm_source=Klaviyo&utm_medium=campaign&utm_campaign=Holiday Hours 12%2F21&_kx=TxmQcmkPeqBcRTE33ktNNTbZi4gcmZzL8XJrA672FVg%3D.PgwiVU

[pksystems]

On 12/20/2023 at 8:09 AM, Ashtone said:

I installed a Fumoto oil drain, which is not just a screw-in addition. since 1972 I’ve owned 11 cars, and done my own maintenance on all of them. I have to say this Subaru is the sloppiest by far when changing oil, so this valve seemed like a great solution to eliminate the mess when changing oil.

I read a post here about grinding some metal off the support bracket that interferes with tightening the new valve, but I chose to remove the engine mount bolts and jack up the motor a bit. This eliminated the need remove the splash shield, which is in the way when trying to get a grinder into position.
The other problem I had was the position of the opening lever when the valve was fully tightened. In my case, it was facing toward back of the engine, which made it difficult to get to. I added a Subaru drain bolt gasket to the Fumoto gasket, Which placed the lever at the top of the valve when tightened. I’ll be keeping an eye on this thing for any leaks, but I’m sure it will be fine. The Fumo gasket is fiber and the Subaru gasket is metal, so it’s not like stacking two metal gaskets.

Kind of a pain on the install, and having to use an extra gasket to locate the opening lever in a good position… I guess I’ll see how it works when the accessory hose kit arrives and my next oil change is due. I drive about 700 miles a week, so they come around rather quickly.

Is that the fumoto valve that has a rubber o-ring in it?  I've seen people have issues with that one leaking.   

[silverton]

14 hours ago, Max Capacity said:

Oh dear, I bought all of mine direct from Fumoto, support the company, not someone who wants to build another rocket for rich people. 

Yeah buddy!  I haven't bought anything from amazon since 2017.  brick and mortar or the company itself.  My fitbit died just under a year of use, and I got a new one after they asked me "where did you buy it" "fitbit.com" "alright, new one is on the way!" didn't even ask for proof.

2 hours ago, snow05gtRI said:

I was mainly linking for the model number.

https://www.fumotousa.com/cars-pickups-subaru-2005-legacy-2-5l-4-cyl-

It was the same between this 2005 4 cylinder and my 2017 6 cylinder, all subaru drain plugs are the same thread pitch.

[Max Capacity]

Same type story with my Eley hose nozzle. My son bought me one with a few QD's years ago. The nozzle would not full shut off the water from dripping, last year. I called them, gave them my son's info. They sent me a new one, free. 

https://www.eleyhosereels.com/