Ashtone

Try LKQ. In case you’re not familiar, they are a nationwide auto recycler. I work at a body shop, and we get parts from them daily. With the number of these cars sold, I’m sure there’s plenty of them out there.

Did you use a Mighty Vac hand sqeezed pump, or something powered? My Mighty Vac takes a lot of squeezing to completely flush the lines.

Did you use a vacuum pump, or the two man “pump the pedal” method?

Probably not, since it’s a no reserve auction, so will sell no matter the final price. Tehspud said “if it doesn’t get much traction I’ll put it up on FB as well. ”

@infosecdad: I see we have the same exhaust… It came on the car when I purchased it. I paid extra since the P.O. claimed he spent a lot to get the tips adjusted to match the bumper. I agree it is “loud” in the low frequencies at idle, and sounds good (not droning) at highway speeds. I asked my neighbor about it, since I back out of my garage at 6:30am and his (usually open) bedroom windows are 100 feet away. He said he can hear the “low rumble”, but it’s not an issue. Which is fair, since I hear his Corvette when he fires it up.

Why does everyone remove their engine cover? I would think it was designed to make a tighter seal for the TMIC to receive cooler outside air though the hood scoop. I know that an open air filter element inside the engine compartment draws hot air, which defeats the purpose (unless you provide a heat baffle and a cold air source). Isn’t this engine cover seal the same thing? If it’s not there, isn’t the top mount intercooler getting a lot of hot air from the engine? Maybe aftermarket TMIC’s are larger than oem IC’s so it won’t fit, but why take it out if you’re running the stock IC?

Hi. Still have the Avo tmic?

“Oooo just wait until you wipe down the interior and can’t turn off the parking lights!” nah…I figured that one out the first day I had the car. But I did have to google it

@KZJonny; @SubOperator: thanks. Makes perfect sense. I thought the odometer was having an issue.

Has anyone experienced this display on the trip odometer? When it happens, it always says the same thing.: ILL.5. no other symptoms when it happens, and it goes away only to return days or weeks later. IMG_8405.mov

Find a car wash that has a chassis wash that you drive over. I do this as often as necessary when the highways are treated. Colorado uses mag chloride which isn’t as corrosive as salt, but it leaves a white residue. If you can buy a wash book or other discount method, it gets cheaper. my wash is $10.00 a shot with the cassis spray.

My dash was starting to feel sticky. I heard about this stuff in a post here, so I tried it. More than a year now, and the stickiness hasn’t come back. Chemical Guys VRP.

For anyone interested: Part numbers for oem mudflaps for LGT wagon, Hardware included …and a full set on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/323137233680?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=DzWCZ5ZUSGi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=mm4ShqwmRX2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

First off, my LGT is my daily driver, and my suspension and wheels are oem. The rest of my LGT wagon is a mild stage 1: STI exhaust, Accessport V1, and a K&N filter in the stock air box. So this post is directed at people who run year round, and are driving a car with stock suspension. I drive on I-25, from Colorado Springs to south Denver (140 miles round trip) four days a week. I’ve purchased Michelins for years, but about a year and a half ago I bought these Pirelli P7 all season tires in the oem size for my LGT wagon. I love them! I drive over a pass that’s notorious for having completely different weather on each side, and elevation changes of over 2000 ft. My commute can start in sunny weather and end up in rain, snow or whatever the season can deliver. I’m sure all-wheel drive helps in crappy conditions, but I can tell they are better than the Michelins I’ve had. I’ve put about 40,000 (highway) miles on them in 18 months, and they still have 9/32” tread depth. They’re not loud, handle great (for an all-season tire) and have long tread life.

@alex0856 when I receive them next week, I will post the part numbers here. I gave him my vin, and he had no problem finding them. He mentioned the rear guards were wagon specific. .

I just ordered a set from Groove Subaru in Denver, so they’re still available from the accessories catalog. Thanks alex0856! I didn’t know about the oem mud guards.

@infosecdad: what color is the interior? Does the sunroof still have the little arms that pull back the sunshade? Im looking to buy those and the door weatherstripping and some tan interior pieces. thanks!

Does that Beatrush piece replace your rear impact bar when using a JDM bumper cover?

My painter had such a hard time matching my paint he named it “f¥€ky-f¥€k red”.

Exactly. That’s what I did: took the money, (minus the salvage value) and did PDR. No title change when totaling for hail. My point was more to the fact that it is worth more to a buyer who knows what it is (or on BaT) than to your insurance carrier. I purchased a pristine low mileage ‘95 Accord EX Wagon from SE Texas and had it shipped to Colorado in 2019. When it came off the trailer I had around 6k invested. I was rear ended in 2020, and it was totaled. Going back and forth for 6 months contesting their $2,000.00 valuation netted me an extra $65.00. Comps in California and Arizona weren’t considered, and they were the only recent examples I could find. One was sold on BaT from NJ, and sold for more than $6k. Not considered because it was an “outlier”. insurance and health care should not be for-profit businesses.

You will find that any standard insurance company is going to lowball any estimate you come up with. I’ve been through this twice with my ‘05 LGT 5mt Limited wagon, once at 180k and again at 210k. (Currently at 246k) Both times totaled for hail here in CO. My car has no rust, no damage, perfect leather and paint. They do not give any premium for this; that’s what their baseline is and any imperfections (except accident damage) are not subtracted. So all the care and maintenance you’ve lavished on your car doesn’t come back to you in a settlement. I spent weeks sending photos, trying to find comps and arguing over the phone. First time settled for $8500.00; second time $8k. I had bitched, yelled, whined for weeks before I finally got an adjuster who went over every option and upgrade on the car, pricing each individually, which netted me about $500.00 more than the original estimate. I had the car PDR’ed both times and it’s still on the road. I work at a body shop in Denver, and see how these companies operate every day. their first move is to give you a lowball estimate, hoping that you will take the money and run. There is no special consideration given for rarity, “cult car” status, mods, upgrades or upkeep. That’s why there are so many “take offs” and part outs in the classifieds here. Strip everything off your totaled car that isn’t factory because insurance doesn’t pay for it. They do not give one single f¥€k. It’s all based on mileage and regional book value. So the most you can hope for is that you have a low mileage car and perfect condition and even with that you will get the value they set. Finding comps on these cars that fit their qualifications is almost impossible. We all feel these cars are special, and should garner a premium if totaled, but insurance doesn’t work that way. Mine is an 05, and I have found that it is not old enough to qualify for Haggerty. Maybe in a few years… Maybe there’s a company that will do a “stated value“ policy, with inflated rates, but State Farm won’t. They just don’t have the option. im still hoping to find a solution before my next round…

No; maybe they updated it. The supplied gasket was a fiber gasket.

I can’t tell what year your car is from that photo, but you have way more clearance between the oil pan and the interfering bracket than I do. Mine is an 05 LGT wagon with a manual transmission.

I installed a Fumoto oil drain, which is not just a screw-in addition. since 1972 I’ve owned 11 cars, and done my own maintenance on all of them. I have to say this Subaru is the sloppiest by far when changing oil, so this valve seemed like a great solution to eliminate the mess when changing oil. I read a post here about grinding some metal off the support bracket that interferes with tightening the new valve, but I chose to remove the engine mount bolts and jack up the motor a bit. This eliminated the need remove the splash shield, which is in the way when trying to get a grinder into position. The other problem I had was the position of the opening lever when the valve was fully tightened. In my case, it was facing toward back of the engine, which made it difficult to get to. I added a Subaru drain bolt gasket to the Fumoto gasket, Which placed the lever at the top of the valve when tightened. I’ll be keeping an eye on this thing for any leaks, but I’m sure it will be fine. The Fumo gasket is fiber and the Subaru gasket is metal, so it’s not like stacking two metal gaskets. Kind of a pain on the install, and having to use an extra gasket to locate the opening lever in a good position… I guess I’ll see how it works when the accessory hose kit arrives and my next oil change is due. I drive about 700 miles a week, so they come around rather quickly.

Very nice!