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silverton

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Everything posted by silverton

  1. If your voltage dropped low enough the modules aren't happy so when it was going around checking on the modules the RAB module may have been near last in line and didn't have enough voltage to say 'hey i'm here', so it coded until a couple key cycles with proper voltage. Often times when these persist you can fix it by doing a 'cap discharge' touching the neg terminal to the pos for a few seconds.
  2. The BIU is where all your fuses go on the inside, usually an access panel just in front of the left knee while seated in the driver position will let you look at it and replace any fuses that happen to blow. As far as parts availability I can not speak on that, but I do know somewhat recently there was a microchip shortage an whatnot so that's going to cause a big backlog for everyone, not just Subaru.
  3. looks good from here. did you space the belt guides appropriately?
  4. The DRL is the high beam bulb at reduced power. The next 10-14 legacy/outback I get I will take a picture of what the low beam should look like when the low beam bulb is positioned correctly.
  5. DLC, ECM, and Main Relay all get their power from SBF-5 in the underhood fuse box.
  6. When the key is on and engine is off, is your check engine light illuminated? if not it should be. might just be the bulb, but this is an indicator that the ECM is functioning and potentially the scan tool you're using isn't working. Has this scan tool communicated with the car before? Sometimes I really have to wiggle and push the scan tool connector in the obd2 port for it to connect to my 2001. My best guess is that the coil pack or a crank/cam sensor gave up. If you get the scan tool to connect look at live data while cranking and see if an RPM is registering, this would indicate the crank/cam sensors are okay.
  7. My favorite cars to work on are customer diagnosed. "this other shop said" or "my friend said" or "i searched on a forum and they said" and 9/10 times they are wrong. Just the other week I replaced a drive shaft at another shops recommendation, because they had just replaced a wheel bearing so that couldn't possibly be the cause of the noise they're hearing. Declined any kind of diagnosis so I didn't even test drive it before doing the work. During the work I noticed no kind of recent witness marks on any of the wheel bearing bolts. On the test drive after I found both rear wheel bearings were just roaring. Sorry bud, should have paid for a diag; more money please! It's like going to a doctor and telling them what procedure you need, like what are you even doing?
  8. "head unit" is the term used for the radio in most aftermarket scenarios. Can confirm, once the touch portion of the unit starts to fail, it needs to be replaced. It's relatively simple to do yourself if you decide to go the used route. all you need is a plastic pry tool and a philips screw driver.... oh and paitence. they do not give you a lot of slack on the wiring and there's like a dozen plugs. okay, maybe not a dozen but like 6 or so of varying shapes and sizes.
  9. Dude. All I did was call the device silly, the silliest part is that it's $100 for $5 worth of electronics. You for some reason took that personally like you had a stake in its creation. I'm sorry I hurt your feelings.
  10. do not underestimate people. where there is a will there is a way.
  11. Did you install the bulbs correctly? If you don't have them aligned in the socket the beam pattern is so poor they're basically DRL's. See the tab in the lower left of the socket? You won't believe how many times I find these bulbs installed crooked.
  12. Any fluid equivalent to Subaru ATF-HP is what you should use. The capacity of the transmission is 10.4 quarts. if you just pull the drain plug you'll only get about 4 quarts out. So if you do 3-4 of those you'll have mostly fresh fluid. If you decide to do a flush by pulling the lines off the radiator have a friend help you determine which hoses are in/out. Put the in hose in a bucket of fresh fluid and wait for the out hose to run the same color as the new fluid. only idle while you do this, it takes less than 5 minutes. Near the end of this process it is a good idea to shift it through the gears (R, D, 2, 1 if applicable) so fresh fluid makes it through all the valve body channels.
  13. I have actually, and I don't find it to be that big of a deal. do other manufacturers do it better? sure... but subaru has never been one to pave the way so to say. just a feature you adapt to, if you're the type of person that can, or you buy a $100 thingy. probably akin to when abs was coming out as standard; i don't need no stinking module to work my brakes for me, i been doing it just fine for years! I want to make something that probably costs dollars to produce and sell it to people like you.
  14. Infosec nailed it, but if you want to double down, so will I. I think it's silly you bought a car with a feature you don't want. Stick to the old stuff buddy. I'd love for my 3.6 to have auto stop start. I understand that the savings are minimal, I just think it's neat. The grass is always greener amiright?
  15. Jesus. Wish I'd come up with a silly $100 device to sell to people. One day...
  16. hard to judge size here, but could it possibly be similar to the AVCS sprocket fasteners? https://www.company23.com/products/subarutools/510?limit=100
  17. That's a Torx Plus part number. It's more square than a normal torx. Is the fastener a torx plus?
  18. I'm gonna do the price is right thing and bet 1 mile Bob! er wait, Drew!
  19. Because clean examples are few and far between, so good score! The parts to keep them nice are disappearing.
  20. I don't care if it's right or wrong but I always let my car warm up 3-5 minutes before starting off, at the very least i wait for the rpms to drop down to at least 1000.
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